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pegscraper

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Everything posted by pegscraper

  1. pegscraper
    The new pins are different lengths than the old ones. The new style shift segment requires the new pins. Sorry.
  2. pegscraper
    My bike has always shifted clunky and hard and this did make some improvement. It still isn't as smooth as it should be, but I'm convinced it's still mechanical rather than in the hydraulic system anywhere. I'm not impressed with the linkage design and setup on my bike. There are too many pivot points and all of them are sloppy loose. I should replace them all. I think there should be a bearing or at least a bushing where the shift lever mounts on the floorboard that is replaceable. It is extremely sloppy and takes way too much movement before the shift arm even starts to move. I need to just replace everything. I learned this one from spying on a VMX board. It pays to do a little looking around once in a while. I couldn't find a torque spec for the star screw holding the cam in place. I finally gave up and just used the calibrated wrist spec with some loctite on the screw. I don't think it's going anywhere. If you can do clutch work, this will be a cinch. It will be interesting to see what your old shift cam looks like and if this helps it.
  3. pegscraper
    1) Yes, it will be obvious where the longer pin goes. It will only go together one way. One of the holes is a through hole for some reason. That's where the longer pin goes. I couldn't see why they thought that was necessary, but that's what they did. 2) By star washer, do you mean the thing they call a plate stopper, #5 in the diagram? You should use your original part there. I believe that piece needs to match with the actions of the shift drum in the transmission. Hopefully you can still return the new one. 3) I was able to wiggle the shift linkage out of the way without removing the shift arm. I can't remember if I might have removed the external shift linkage on the other side of the engine. I did this on my bike earlier this year when I did the PCW clutch kit. Here is a picture of the old shift cam and the linkage out of the way. None of these pins were tight. Three of them were extremely loose, and one was just about to fall out. The old parts use a stamped metal piece to hold the pins in place, and the tabs bend easily and let the pins loose. The new style is a solid, one piece unit. The pins aren't going anywhere. Parts cost is right around $50 or so.
  4. pegscraper
    I'd be interested in seeing pictures of your hide away hitch.
  5. pegscraper
    How young do I look? Foggy was one of my favorites. I liked when he and the dog would go at it.
  6. pegscraper
    Sorry, I've been busy and been gone. Does anyone know what specifically is different between the '83 and '84 TCIs? Spark advance curves can be the only answer. They don't do anything else. Have you heard the term "ported vacuum" as opposed to manifold vacuum? This stunt started being done on cars in about the late '60s. Manifold vacuum level gives a good read of engine load, and the vacuum advance unit on the side of a distributor or the pressure sensor on this bike will vary the spark advance based on engine load. Ported vacuum is much the same as manifold vacuum, except its source is above the throttle plates. When the throttle plates are open, the vacuum levels between the two are much the same. But at idle when the throttle plates are closed, the manifold vacuum source remains high while the ported vacuum source drops to zero. Less vacuum retards the timing, so at idle, with a ported vacuum source, you have no load based spark advance. With manifold vacuum controlling the thing, you have maximum spark advance at idle. So the difference between ported vacuum and manifold vacuum is - what do you want the spark timing to do at idle speed? At idle speed or constant cruise speed, ie. low engine load, the throttle plates are closed or nearly so, air/fuel density is low which burns so slowly that it requires the spark to be ignited earlier to actually burn at the proper time in the crankshaft rotation. Under a high engine load, the throttle plates are open further and air/fuel density is high which burns much quicker and does not require near so much spark advance to burn at the proper crankshaft position. Under heavy throttle, spark timing should be retarded. Under light throttle, constant cruise or idle, spark timing should be more advanced. The idea behind using a ported vacuum source for vacuum advance was to retard the spark timing at idle, which would increase the exhaust temperature at idle speeds which supposedly makes the emissions cleaner at idle, but this method of trying to do that actually makes emissions worse anyway. Also, retarded spark timing makes the engine burn gas less efficiently which makes the engine run hot and hurts in town gas mileage where you spend time at idle speed. I say do the engine a favor and let it run better at idle. Connect the pressure sensor to the manifold vacuum source and plug off the ported vacuum source. And I also say do this to any '60s or '70s or '80s car that was set up this way. Clear as mud?
  7. pegscraper
    Too much to read, too much to do, not enough time, don't go that far back. Son? I'm not anybody's son.
  8. pegscraper
    The thing doesn't come as an assembled unit. The shift cam and pins come separately, and one pin is longer than the others. All else is the same and these bolt right in. Here are the part numbers: (1) shift segment - 4NK-18185-00-00 (1) long pin - 93604-16092-00 (5) short pins - 93604-12037-00 You'll need a clutch gasket too, but you should have one in the rebuild kit you got from Buckeye. You have to know to ask for the shift segment parts from a later bike or have these part numbers available. If you ask for shift segment parts for whatever year of 1st gen, the same old old-style parts is what you'll get. These same parts are also used in I believe the '99 and newer VMX. So you don't have to worry that you're putting 2nd gen parts in your bike. Instead, you're putting VMX parts in your bike. I've heard the VMX boys say they can destroy brand new old style parts in one day on the drag strip, but after they put these new style parts in they never have any more trouble. Let us know how this works for you.
  9. pegscraper
    Psst, Joe. It's been September for over a week now.
  10. pegscraper
    One reason that the 1st gen Venture sometimes shifts hard or clunky is that the pins in the shift segment get loose over time. There is a stamped metal piece that hold the pins in place, and it doesn't take much for that piece to get bent and the pins don't fit tightly any more. Once the pins are loose and sloppy, the transmission will be a clunky shifter. If the metal tabs get bent enough that one or more of the pins fall out, the transmission can't be shifted past that point at all and you're stuck. Yamaha upgraded these parts to a one piece casting in the 2nd gen Venture. The one piece casting holds the pins solidly. The later parts are a direct swap into the earlier models, but Yamaha doesn't really acknowledge these as upgraded parts. If you ask for the parts for any year of a 1st gen bike, you're going to get the old style parts. You have to know enough to order the later parts or have the part numbers handy. Total parts cost is right around $50. Here are the part numbers needed: NOTE: Received this tip from Trader. When replacing old shift segment assembly from a 1st Gen. with the one piece shift segment from a 2nd gen, the old pins are too long and must be replaced with the part numbers shown. NOTE: save the shortest and smallest diameter "locator" pin from the old assembly to be reused (1) shift segment 4NK-18185-00-00 (5) long pins 93604-12037-00 (1) short pin 93604-16092-00 (1) clutch cover gasket 4NK-15462-00-00 These parts are in behind the clutch basket. I swapped these parts and did the PCW clutch kit at the same time. On my shift segment, the metal tab is badly bent and the pin was sloppy, and the two pins next to it are very loose. Even the other three pins were also a little loose. None of them were tight at all. The shift linkage can be wiggled up out of the way without having to remove the shift arm. These two projects took only a couple hours from start to finish and I was back on the road. Incidentally, this also applies to '96 and '97 Royal Stars and '98 and older VMXs. They use the exact same parts here and the same later upgraded parts bolt right in. For some reason, the VMX got these parts a year later than the Royal Star. All '98 and newer Royal Stars, '99 and newer Ventures, '05 and newer RSTDs, and '99 and newer VMXs already have these upgraded parts.
  11. pegscraper
    Loose dowel pins in the shift cam can certainly cause clunky shifting. If you find the pins loose in the shift cam when you have the clutch out, I would definitely replace the parts. For an upgrade, use the pins and shift cam from a second gen bike. They are much more solid pieces and they bolt right in. All the newer RSVs, RSTDs, and VMXs use these same new shift cam parts, but you have to know to ask for them. Y doesn't acknowledge these as upgraded parts, and the dealer probably won't know it either. But they are a direct replacement. The pins will never come loose again.
  12. pegscraper
    I used a set from a Victory. They bring the bars about 2" or so closer to you. The cables and wires stretch out just enough. They do require a couple washers to stand them up off of the non-flat top tree, and also a couple washers underneath the tree to clear the bolt shoulders. I've had these on here for a couple years now. They're real nice. I couldn't find anything else I liked as well or had as much extension.
  13. pegscraper
    I wish my bike had footpegs underneath me. The weight of my legs out in front throws me backwards and my back can't find a comfortable, balanced, vertical position. I feel like I'm either leaning backwards or leaning forwards. A backrest did not help me. It feels like it's pushing me forwards all the time, even when I'm leaning back. On longer trips, I ride most of the time with my feet almost off the backs of the floorboards to get my legs and feet under me. I last a lot longer that way.
  14. pegscraper
    I don't know enough about the 1st gens to tell you much specific. Remove it and plug any open vacuum ports. The boost sensor unit that manages the spark advance should be connected to manifold vacuum and not the source above the throttle plates that was used on the '83s. (Boy I can't wait until a certain well known moderator reads this one. Be assured, he'll jump up and down and throw a fit. Expect it, and ignore it.) wkoepke, if you don't already have the 1200 carbs, you might look for a set of VMX carbs. You'll get a 35mm throttle bore instead of the stock 34mm one. The choke linkage will be a little different, but will also interchange.
  15. pegscraper
    The rev limiter hits at 7000 rpms I believe, and that will keep you from getting anywhere near the actual engine redline. There's no way to overdo it. You're really not missing much even with the low rev limiter setting. With the small cams the engine has, by 7000 rpms, you're above the powerband and it's time to shift anyway.
  16. pegscraper
    Yes, they will all interchange. That vacuum hookup on the '83s should be connected to manifold vacuum anyway and the carb connection plugged off.
  17. pegscraper
    I was going to say nice pics, but goodness, do you have some larger versions? The coal burning steam engine would have been neat to see. Like a bozo, I forgot to have my camera with me the one time I've been there. I wanted to get some pictures of the canal. I guess we'll just have to go again now with our new guest in the house.
  18. pegscraper
    With an impact gun you can remove and install it just holding it with your hand. Use a low setting and just blow it on there. Installed torque doesn't seem to be that critical. I had read too many tales of VMX boys doing it that way, so that's what I did. I guess it's a matter of what tools you have or want. Our exchange student? Hijacking your own post, are you? It's a lot of fun having her around. She loves riding on the "motorbike" with me. It's "giant". I could tell you some funny tales. When she gets really tired and ready for bed, she'll start responding to us in her own language. Then she recognizes what she did and starts laughing. She's done that three times now. We just laugh. She's a big racing fan, but had never been to one before because none are held anywhere near her home. We took her to the Moto GP race in Indy last weekend where she got her favorite racer's autograph and had a lot of fun. But I won't take up more of your space here with that.
  19. pegscraper
    I've heard of V Max boys breaking driveshafts with built up engines, but I think you have to be pretty abusive to do that. I doubt you have much to worry about.
  20. pegscraper
    Well I'm going to have to come down there and hear it now, because I did hear it before and I never heard anything like it. I could hear you blocks away. You got the clutch changed by yourself, eh? It goes a lot easier with an impact gun. No holding tools necessary.
  21. pegscraper
    Once you get to the cams, the procedure for checking clearances and changing the shims is exactly the same. Getting to the cams, removing the body parts, will be a little different.
  22. pegscraper
    When carbs are set up to be too lean at small throttle openings - pilot jets or mixture screws - the throttle can act just like that and be difficult to operate smoothly. It could still be other things too.
  23. pegscraper
    We're hoping to be there. We have three free passes to the infield from my wife's brother who works there. Now we need to find a place to stay one night. Not sure how that's going to work yet. What hotels are recommended in the area? I hope we can still find an available room somewhere.
  24. pegscraper
    Yeah, and I'll bet you shift into fifth gear at 31 mph too, like the inerrant owner's manual says.
  25. pegscraper
    Yes.
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