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pegscraper

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Everything posted by pegscraper

  1. pegscraper
    All 2nd gen RSVs are the same. And while the '96 - '01 Royal Star is basically and mostly 2nd gen, there are some differences. One is the atrociously high gear ratios throughout the entire drive train. (Even Y themselves realized they overdid this because they lowered them a little bit when they brought out the RSV.) This is why I'm putting a 1st gen tranny in mine. Even so, after this, my bike will still not be spinning as fast in fifth gear as your bike (with RSV OD trans and VMX rear gear) will be in fifth. My bike still has a higher ratio between the crank and the clutch than yours does. I calculate that after this, my bike will be spinning within 50 rpms of the FJR in every gear. I figure that ought to be just about right. I hope to be putting my engine back together tomorrow afternoon. Everything looks good to go. I can't wait to see what my bike feels like with a proper set of gear ratios in it. I look forward to hearing how you like your tranny swap.
  2. pegscraper
    Of these four brands he mentioned, the only one who makes a tire in a size that will fit is Federal in a 165/80R15. DBTires put 2 1/4" WWs on the one I had them do. It's what you're looking at in my sig pic here.
  3. pegscraper
    Hmm. Those aren't the number you posted earlier.
  4. pegscraper
    Um - Randy - sorry - those tranny ratios you gave are for the '96 - '01 Royal Star, which is not the same thing as the 2nd gen RSV. Fifth gear in a 1st gen is not the same as fourth in an RSV, but rather the Royal Star. The RSV is geared lower than the Royal Star. Squeeze posted the correct ratios for the 2nd gen RSV except for the final drive which is 3.30. Some folks have changed that to the VMX rear gear which gives a 3.667 which lets the engine pull and run better. The '96 - '01 Royal Star ratios are: primary - 1.666 1st - 2.437 2nd - 1.578 3rd - 1.160 4th - .906 5th - .750 secondary - .778 final drive - 3.30
  5. pegscraper
    That price would not be too bad, really. IIRC, DBtires gets $75 per WW - one for each side - that's $150 just for WWs plus the price of the tire.
  6. pegscraper
    That's funny. I'm right in the middle of putting a 1st gen transmission in my Royal Star, which is geared even higher than the RSV is. Bet you have to change the shift drum and forks too. I found out the hard way that I have to. I hope you have them handy. What's even more odd? Your bike with a 2nd gen trans and VMX rear gear will be spinning faster in fifth gear than my bike will with a 1st gen trans and stock gearing everywhere else. I have a higher ratio between the crank and the clutch than both 1st and 2nd gens do.
  7. pegscraper
    No one makes a CT with WWs on both sides. DBTires can put WWs on literally any tire you want, which means they can do both sides, but this makes a rather expensive tire. I did a Kumho this way and it looks good and works fine. But I'm not sure I'd do it again, as with the cost of adding WWs there's just no real money savings over a regular MT.
  8. pegscraper
    You might have a damaged O-ring seal at the front of the differential housing. I had one happen to me once and I would describe it just the way you did. No obvious drips, but it would get a heavy oily dirty film all over it. I found a nick in the seal. I replaced that and it ended. You'll have to take the nut off and maybe a couple other parts out of the front end of the differential housing to get to the seal.
  9. pegscraper
    Riding the dark side is putting a car tire on the rear rim of the bike. This bike handles just fine up until the boards hit the ground, and that point comes up real quickly. You won't have anywhere near the lean angle you used to have and your maximum speed will be about a fourth of what you're used to. Most folks' favorite tire around here is Avon Venom, but there are a few others that are probably good too.
  10. pegscraper
    The 150 is stock on the front. A narrower 130/90-15 makes the bike steer and handle a little quicker and feel a little less top heavy. Some like it, some don't. I like it, which means if I want WWs, I'm stuck with Avon.
  11. pegscraper
    I got right around 16,000 miles out of them both. I don't have any complaints about the D404s. If you want WWs, this question between Dunlop and Avon comes down more to whether you want the narrower 130 size front tire or not. A D404 WW front tire comes only in the wider 150 size and not in the 130. Vice versa for Avon. I like the narrower size front tire.
  12. pegscraper
    The 32mm carb swap article is on this board courtesy of Don. The early Royal Stars are a little weak and the 32mm carbs make a big difference. A bolt on? Well, bolts do hold it on. It does take a little custom work, but I didn't find it difficult.
  13. pegscraper
    Those look like National Cycle hardbags.
  14. pegscraper
    I've used both the D404 and Avon Venom in WW and like them both.
  15. pegscraper
    A person being out of a job is part of what creates credit score problems. Now companies don't want to give someone a job because of a questionable credit score. Buncha 'tards.
  16. pegscraper
    Cut some wood blocks to fit from a 2x4. It works fine enough for me.
  17. pegscraper
    If it's clean $3000 - $4000. Just my guess. Buy to resell later? You mean as an investment? The value on these is not going up and never will. Buy it to ride and enjoy.
  18. pegscraper
    Well Jonas, I don't know if you're aware of this, unfortunately for us, we do not have the same rear shock at all that the RSVs and later RSTDs have. They have an air shock in the back. Ours is standard. Not only that, but our operates in reverse of anything else on the planet. When our rear suspension "compresses", the shock actually stretches out. Whatever he comes up with won't work for us.
  19. pegscraper
    For anyone who's interested, I finally figured out a while back that for a Mac user: CONTROL-OPTION-P is for preview CONTROL-OPTION-S is for submit I use these all the time.
  20. pegscraper
    I was thinking of the mid '80s 700 Magnas that had 32mm carbs. So this one has 34mm carbs. An even better comparison. A 1300cc engine with 28mm carbs is not at all optimized. Yamaha nailed this bike in looks. (Actually they patterned the Royal Star after the Indian rather than HD.) But on the performance end, they really boofed the pooch in a number of ways. The 28mm carbs are such a huge mismatch on a 1300 that there's just no way to increase the performance of this engine until some bigger carbs are put on. You can try other things, but the carbs are by far the biggest restriction and virtually no performance increase will be seen. The cams are small, the intake cam is even smaller then the exhaust, and the springs are very soft. Even Dyna themselves recommend no more than a 6500 rpm rev limit without heavier springs. Pathetic. Spark timing is based both on rpm and throttle position via a TPS. The other big mechanical mismatch on this bike is the gearing. It is way too high for any engine, and especially for one that likes to rev. Fourth gear in this bike is exactly the same as fifth gear in the 1st gens, and first gear feels like about what second gear ought to be. Fifth gear in this bike is so high that the engine can't pull it. Give it any gas at anything below 70 mph in fifth gear and it pounds and lugs and shakes. The engine is just not spinning fast enough. I never use fifth gear. Never. And I have no loss of gas mileage from when I used to. The 32mm carb swap isn't that difficult. It just takes some fiddling. I can make the adapter plates and mill your intake boots if you want, or any machine shop can do it. VMX cams and springs, and 32mm carbs on this bike will get you an additional 30 rear wheel hp, or about a 50% increase. That is huge. Unfortunately, until the silly 28mm carbs are tossed out, no other tinkering is going to amount to anything.
  21. pegscraper
    The D3K won't get you anything real noticeable. The stock rev limit is low, but you can't raise it much without putting in heavier valve springs. And if you're going to do springs, you might as well do cams while you're in there. The stator has nothing to do with ignition timing. You might be able to advance the rotor if you could find an offset key for the crankshaft. I did slot the mounting screws on the pickup coil and advanced the timing 4º that way. I used to have pictures of this, but my computer crashed some time back and they were lost. I didn't think it really gave me anything anyway. Shimming needles and playing with jets won't get you anything either. These carbs are just not big enough to do the job. They are only 28mm. Correct me if I'm wrong here - your Magna would have been a 750 and had I think 32mm carbs on it? Yamaha should be slapped for putting 28mm carbs on a 1300cc engine. Even 32mm carbs are not big enough for a 1300, but they're all that will easily fit in this frame, and they are a huge improvement over stock. The engine really should have 35s or 36s on it. The 32mm carb swap information can be found here. Bigger cams and carbs are the only ways to get any real gains out of this engine. Only then would I spend the money on the D3K to raise the rev limit and advance the spark timing. Fiddling around with other little things will simply waste your time and money and leave you disappointed in the results.
  22. pegscraper

    spam

    pegscraper replied to barend's topic in Watering Hole

    Time to change the e-mail address.
  23. pegscraper
    Oddly, it does not change the speedometer. The number of teeth on the ring gear is the same; it is the pinion gear that is different - RSV 10/33 - VMX 9/33. While the sensor reads the teeth on the pinion gear, what it is really counting is the teeth on the ring gear. Think of the pinion gear as an idler between the ring gear and the sensor. For every tooth that goes by the ring gear, one tooth will go by the sensor. It doesn't matter how many teeth are on the pinion gear. You'll want to bore the hole through first so you can see the pinion gear so you can tell how far down to machine the flat spot on the boss and set the sensor spacing correctly. If you know your way around a mill and have a way to bore holes, i.e. a CNC machine or a boring bar, this is really a pretty simple operation. The most difficult part of this is figuring out how to clamp this thing down to the table and then locating the holes to begin with. But even that's not bad. Any other questions about what you're looking at, just ask. I tried to get my buddy who did mine interested in doing this on the side for other people here, but he declined. I have a mill now and can almost do it myself, but I don't have a boring bar yet. So you may have at it.
  24. pegscraper
    The sensor reads the teeth on the pinion gear. The driveshaft doesn't have anything to do with it. Just make sure when you machine the sensor mounting boss down that you get the spacing from that surface to the pinion gear exactly the same as the stock differential. The gears don't have to be removed to do this, so you don't have to worry about playing with backlash at all. Just remove the back cover and flush the shavings out of thing out real well with some kerosene when you're finished. Put it back together and install it and fill it up with oil. I did one just like this a few years ago. I picked up a VMX differential and had a buddy of mine machine the thing for me. It worked out fine, and there are probably at least 40,000 miles on the thing by now. Then I sold off my stock one (to Squid actually) for only about $5 less than what I paid for the VMX one. I had a grand total of $5 in my swap. As a side note, this differential will just barely fit into a USPS flat rate box and can be shipped anywhere in the 48 for less than $10. Very effective use of a flat rate box.
  25. pegscraper
    You knew all that, but you still asked if all caps are the same thing. Whatever. I guess your little signature illustration there explains it all.
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