fixit3546
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Everything posted by fixit3546
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This really sucks, I'm having trouble finding my windshield. I know I put it up where it wouldn't be damaged, Now i can't find it ! My son shares my shop with me, Says he hasn't seen it................Frustration sets in. My signal lights don't work, Any ideas, The E-flashers work; but not the directionals. On top of all that, I'm getting sick. took off work yesterday and stayed in bed all day, back to work today To do an internal audit of our ISO program and of a new company wide SOP, Sat in one spot pretty much all day. When I went in to work today, i found out that i had told my boss yesterday morning that i needed sleep, forgot to tell him i was sick...........wonder why he was cold toward me all day ???
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I'm feeling kinda STUPID right now. Finally got it to start up, the problem was that the left side was not rinning, pipes were cold. the right side was hot. It had been spitting and misfiring the whole time i was trying to start it; but i couldnt see it being out of time because i hadn't touched anything with the timing. I thought maybe the valves had tightened up some how; but i just couldn't see it happening. I checked the coil wiring three times; but guess what, I had the left side backward ! I swaped the wires while it was running and it smoothed out and is now purring like a wild cat. A touch of the button and it fires to life. Oh I'm happy now! I could not take it out on the road because it is still not together. But I cant get 2nd to pop out. I even pumped up the back brake and held it as well as i could and dumped the clutch with it in second gear, at about 5000 rpm and the back wheel broke free from the hold of the brake. I'm thinking i'm good to go now. cant wait to get it back together and give it a good running. problem now is that I've had it apart so long that now i'm having trouble finding all the parts.
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have to put words here so it will post.
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I got the motor back together Thursday but found out too late that i didn't have an oilpan gasket. Friday I went and got the gasket and finished that. ( then I had to go Grocery shopping) Saturday I attempted to put it in by myself, Don't do that ! I was able to get my son home from wherever he was and we got it in. The floor jack was just about useless. With me by myself. Laying the bike over on the engine didn't work out for me. Others like that method. We wound up getting it close with the floor jack then lifting it the rest of the way in by hand. It was easier manuvering it that way. Incidentally, I have the rear sub frame and gas tank removed so stradling the frame to lift the engine was alot easier. Now after making all the connections, It will not start. just poping and sputtering. I changed the plugs and ghecked the coil wiring and i did have #3 and #4 Crossed on the harness. Now I have low battery voltage and I hope that is all that is keeping it from starting. (Got to get me a real battery charger) So i'm stuck waiting untill tomorraw evening.
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Good deal Rick, I'll probably take off Friday; but i'll start tonight after Church. And, I liked the snow-blower press. I mean, if it works it beats going to buy a special tool that you will only use once. I made mine out of scrap iron and used all-thread.
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Today. Today the last part finally arrived on a sloooow boat from Canada.
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Allen, please accept my sincerest condolences. You are in my prayers.
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Inquireing minds need to know.
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My Bad, it's called a special shape washer. item number "6" on the fiche for the middle drive gear.
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Not yet, the thrust washer for the shaft is coming in from Canada and will be here next week. If I had known it would take so long I think i would have asked Charlie to get it for me........................probably be in middle of next week.
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Wonder how long it will take to get that in a Venture ??
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Finally, my parts arrived. When I picked them up, I found that all the parts were in (as i was told) so i looked in the bag. the sales guy had checked in all the parts and said they were all there. good thing i looked in the bag!!! The main part i needed, the thrust washers that hold the middle gear together (also the major cause of the second gear problem) were not there. on further investigation, the owner and I found that the counter man had checked the part off on the order slip. I grew up with the owner of this place and i usually just pick up my parts, never asking questions. Had i done this this time, I probably would have been accused of loosing them and i probably would have thought i did. Always check your parts before you leave the store! Sam probably got his butt chewed on pretty good after i left. These things were finished today. Replaced the star shaped retainer on the shift drum. My old one had a broken tab and the one on the donor motor had been beat on with a chissel or screwdriver. The torx head screw striped out so i had to drill the head off of it; but i had thought far enough ahead to have orderd a new one. I cleaned the threads with carb cleaner and assembled it with a little "blue" loctite. I reassembled it all back in the engine case, again using "blue" loctite on the screws. Note: The shift forks are numbered 1, 2 & 3 they should be assembled in that order, form left to right, with the numbers facing the left (drivers side) side. I replaced the shift shaft seal before making this assembly. rebuilt the clutch cylinder. It was fairly simple to replace the seals. the hardest part was discovering that the piston is one peice and that the piston seal stretches over the piston. (my shop manual did not point that out) The bolts that hold all this to the engine also stripped out(the heads, not the threads) I had to dril the heads off of the bolts here too. I had planed to put the brushes in the starter; but i couldn't find it and it was getting too cold to work. I guess i need a better shop heated instead of a 1500w electric heater. The pictures arent all that good. they show the new parts installed on the shift drum and the parts installed. NOTE: Just a note to remember that the shell bearings that the crank shaft and ballance shaft ride on need to be treated with kid gloves, with care. thay are easy to damage and they need to be put back in the same location they came from if they are reused.
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Well still no parts, they should be in this friday. I have all my plastic repaired except for smoothing it out and paint. It'll be black this time. I have cleaned up some of the rust that was started by battery acid and coated with a rust inhibitor and black auto touchup paint.
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Man,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,How long do I have to wait on parts...............
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Bump..............still waiting on parts.
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I used zipper seal bags and plastic dish pans to separate my bolts and organize my parts as i tore the engine down. A permanent marker works well on the bags to mark where the bolts go. If I can remember this right............ Remove the clutch cylinder, the alternator cover and the starter gears. Remove the water pump. Remove the clutch cover and the clutch. Remove the bearing retainers on the final drive and under the clutch Remove the oil pump drive gear, Removed the upper case bolts on the rear of the engine and the engine ground bolt. there are three bolts under the rear cylinders that will not come out if the head is not removed. unscrew them and leave them there. Turn he engine over. Remove the oil pan. Remove the oil pump and oil lines. Remove the crankshaft main bolts. remove the lower case bolts. Gently remove the lower case.Everything I looked at in my transmission looked good except for the shift forks and the second gear dogs. The forks have some pretty bad uneven wear and the dogs are rounded off. I had to drill the heads off of the bolts holding my clutch cylinder on because they rounded out. I am posting a few picts of the tear down. Are there other picts anyone would like ? They are not in any order. photo 24 is a bracket they holds one of the oil lines, i have taken two of these off and they both bent.
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Hope I got everything in order here, This is a shortened version of the shop manual procedures. Removing the Venture Engine. It is suggested that the engine be cleaned before removal, And that the proper tools are on hand. [Note: When disassembling the engine, keep mated parts together. This includes gears, cylinders, pistons, bearings and other parts that have been “mated” together through normal wear. Mated parts must be reused as an assembly or replaced.] I used zipper seal snack bags to keep bolts for different parts and covers together so I wouldn’t have to search for the right one later. I used plastic dish pans to keep my parts in order and gallon zipper seal bags to store the clutch assy. And the oil pump. I should have drained the oil before I removed the engine, (Must have been sleeping) Removal Place the bike on the center stand, on a sturdy foundation. Remove side covers, false tank cover, and fairing. Remove the breather. The question was asked about the tabs breaking. I don’t know what to do about that, the first gen bikes have age and that is hard to avoid. Use care with them and use Vaseline on the side cover rubbers to lubricate them. Remove the crankcase vent hose. Remove the choke cable from the carbs. Disconnect the throttle cables at the middle connector. (don’t know it’s proper name) Remove the carburetors from the left side. Stuff clean rags into the intake boots to keep things out of the engine. Disconnect the YICS hoses. I left my coolant hoses connected to the engine. Remove the spark plug boots. Remove the YICS chamber. Remove the air baffles located on the top of the cylinder heads. Remove the radiator covers and horns. Remove the hoses from both sides of the radiator. Loosen the hoses on the bottom of the radiator. Remove the radiator being careful not to perforate it! Remove the Engine guards. Remove the footrest and break petal. Remove the right side engine cover plate. Remove the brake master cylinder bolts and the brake fluid reservoir mounting bolts. Remove the left footrest and shift pedal. Remove the middle gear case cover and the lower left engine cover. Remove the rear shock absorber damping adjuster screws. Disconnect the Generator lead, neutral switch lead and the pickup coil lead. Remove the shift arm from the shift shaft. Remove the clutch release cylinder. Disconnect the drive axle boot and spring. Disconnect the front headers from the cylinder head and the chamber and remove the headers. Remove the mufflers. Disconnect the exhaust chamber from the bottom of the engine and disconnect the rear header clamp. Disconnect the starter motor lead and the ground lead. Remove the thermostat housing and the starter. Remove the oil filter housing. Remove the front upper engine mounting bolt and the side frame tube. Place a floor jack under the engine and remove the front and rear lower engine mounting bolts, The right lower frame section and the front frame cross tube. Remove the engine from the right side (You are going to want some help here) The valve covers can be removed to give additional clearance. MAN WHAT A JOB !!!I wanted to add some picts here but when my computer crashed i lost them............I'll see what i can dig up.
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That heated riding gear sounds really good. I need some. But what i really wonder is, Please God, can i just have a cool suit on those stifling HOT August and September Days. :225: Oh well, I'd still rather be ridin than drivin.....................
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I'd like to hear the end of that one. I for one will be more watchful.
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Computer died last night:sick: , I'll have to see what ican salvage for this article. This really sux...... ..... I did get the motor out last night though:) , It's a *****! Maybe I did something wrong.................
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I have tried many things, I'll probably never use anything but this stuff again. Plastex. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=312
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This link leads to a thread discussing power transfer through the transmission. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?p=46220#post46220
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Think I'll start tearing into the old girl tonight, Anyone need photos of anything in particular ? I'll start with the removal of the plastic tonight.
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I've never used the stuff; but i've made billions of pounds of it. Literaly.
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I had the small "Black" kit. It did a lot more than i had expected it to. The stuff seems to be very durable and fairly easy to work with once you figure it out (Easy on the solvent). I let my bike fall over an the trailer a while back and broke my fairing pretty bad, but what i didn't expect to see was a repair thay only split part of the way through the repair. it's the second pict. The new split ran from the signal light opening about half way to the shoulder. Other breaks on each side of it. I have put a couple of hundred miles on it since i damaged it and it still hasen't broken all the way through. I'd say that speaks well for the stuff.
