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jimmyenglish

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Everything posted by jimmyenglish

  1. jimmyenglish
    The 2 part epoxy's work good for some of the small cracks. Contrary to some of the other posts, I've had great results with fiberglass and have been using it on all the bigger cracks. As far as mounting tabs, I've been refabricating them out of steel as in my experience gluing or glassing hasn't held up. Too bad the plastic on these bikes is so brittle. It certainly is frustrating!
  2. jimmyenglish
    Today I went to the DMV to get my trailer inspected so I could register it . I handed the guy the "Affidavit of Trailer Construction" form that had the "Specially Constructed Trailer" box checked. He looked at it and the first thing he said was, "This is a manufactured trailer." I lied and told him the shell was built by some hick in SC and I just added the parts. I added how we don't title trailers in SC. He looked it over shaking his head. "You built this?", he said with a tone that said he totally didn't believe me. He asked if I had a bill of sale for any of the parts. I said no, it was a long time ago. He probably asked me 5 times, "When exactly did you build this?" He looked all over for a VIN. I told him there wasn't one anywhere and of course he never found one. He checked the lights and shortly thereafter came out with this super cool robotic, punch/etching tool that stamped the date and a NV DMV VIN# on the main tongue part of the trailer. So the homemade thing worked! Thanks for all the info guys! Great forum!http://www.kilik.com/vinapplying.jpg
  3. jimmyenglish
    I put a new, rear Shinko Tourmaster on our 86' before our big ride last fall. We did about 6500 miles. It's got around 8k on it now and it's pretty much toast. Rides well but it has worn really weird. On one side (not laterally speaking) there is around 1/8" of tread left but then on the opposite side, 180 degrees or so, the tire is bald. you would think that you'd notice something riding on an oval tire but it rides perfectly fine even at high speed (85+). I can only reckon the tread was thicker on one side.
  4. jimmyenglish
    Yeah, I'm talking around the circumference. Laterally, the tire has worn evenly.
  5. jimmyenglish
    Being a poor person I always buy the cheapest tires. Overall I've had decent success with all of them. This last rear, however, has demonstrated a very strange wear pattern. It is a Shinko Tourmaster. I have about 8k or so on it. I already have a replacement but when checking it the other day I noticed one side of the tire had say slightly less than 1/8' and the other side, about 180 degrees away, was bald. What the hell? I've never seen such a thing! I could only assume it's because it's a cheap, shi tty tire. It's always ridden fine even at sustained high speed. Thought this was a real strange wear pattern and curious if anyone else has experienced this. Cheers!
  6. jimmyenglish
    So I lightly sanded the bore with my dremel. Seemed to clear things up a little. The other part of the problem is that I had too strong of a spring on the actuating pin. I cut it down a little and now everything seems ok. Thanks for all the input everybody!
  7. jimmyenglish
    Yes. Crystal clear. With reservoir empty (lubed with fluid still) the plunger will not return all the way. it sticks at least half inch from where it should rest. I've had it apart 5 times now. Tried doubling up the spring, twisting the plunger. It bleeds fine but I have 2 inches of play and 1/2 inch of usable clutch. It makes sense how in the past as the bike would warm up, the fluid warms up and would push the plunger back. Then the clutch felt normal. This has been happening a long time. I think a quick honing should do the trick. I'll look at sears.
  8. jimmyenglish
    I definitely can't see the rubber cup, just the threads. Unless I push it back in from the other end. Looking into the bore I can't see any irregularities. Thanks for the input!
  9. jimmyenglish
    So my clutch went flat again and after replacing my slave and rebuilding the master again (last rebuild was only 9 months prior) I realized my problem is that the plunger is not returning all the way because it's binding in the bore. Has anyone else experienced this? Can I lightly sand the top part of the bore where it's binding or should I just give up on it and find another? Thanks everyone. Great forum!
  10. jimmyenglish
    Thanks for all the info fellas. Perhaps I am getting hung up on the "homemade" thing. It's just that I was told by 2 people at the DMV I was screwed and then the nazi inspectors, whom you have to see first in NV, said the same thing. I'll just pull it to a different DMV inspector and tell them it's homemade. Thanks again!
  11. jimmyenglish
    In Oct 2008my wife and I bought a 86' Venture and a small, color matched trailer to tow behind the bike. It was a package deal. We bought it from a guy in Long Island and at the time we lived in SC. The trailer has no title. This wasn't an issue in SC because there's no registering/titling trailers there. However, we've since moved to NV and here it needs to be registered. I've looked all over the thing and the only thing I could find is a Coleman stamp on the bottom of the fiberglass shell. I took it to the NV inspection and they looked and looked for a vin to no avail. They basically said there was nothing I could do without a vin or title. I've tried to contact the guy I bought it from but he is long gone and I'm certain that even if I could get a hold of him he wouldn't have anything. I got a form from the DMV about applying for a title if it's homemade but this thing totally does not look homemade. I've thought about dismantling it and building a wood frame to make it look homemade and then put it back together later but that seems ridiculous. I don't know what to do? Please help!
  12. jimmyenglish
    At 52k, on my 86', I had to reshim all but two valves. They weren't horribly out of spec but I changed them nevertheless.
  13. jimmyenglish
    So I replaced the dual horns(don't know if they're stock) with a hi and lo fiamm. I turn the key and the and the horns start blaring. I check the wires with a meter. One is hot all the time regardless of wether I hit the button. The other has nothing. When I take a reading between the two it read 3.4-4volts and then 12 when I hit the button. What's the deal? The horns are loud as hell. Totally confused. Thanks in advance!
  14. jimmyenglish
    I should add that the other weird thing is as it's going flat, it's not that it's pushing the piston and nothing is happening, the piston is not returning all the way. ie, I have to pull the lever 1.5 inches or so until it even hits the piston. Maybe I bought a bad rebuild kit last spring?
  15. jimmyenglish
    Thanks for all the responses. I've tried the take the cap off, strap the lever for a week trick and it didn't work. The guys in sturgis tried to bleed it and they said it wouldn't bleed. They disassembled the whole master and flushed new fluid through. It was pretty good for awhile. I'm really feeling like there's something else wrong. I guess I'll try the reverse bleeding trick. Thanks.
  16. jimmyenglish
    Hi everyone. Last spring I rebuilt the clutch master cylinder, slave cylinder and bought all the clutch lever wear parts. It continues to go flat. However, when the bike warms up it would pump more and almost feel normal. It actually went completely flat 2500 miles from home and Sturgis BMW/Yamaha disassembled, cleaned and bled the crap out of it. It was good for the next 5000 or so. Now it's almost totally flat again. it's not leaking anywhere. I'm going to replace everything. New master,slave, lines etc. I know the slaves are cheap but is there an inexpensive alternate master? I don't care what kind of bike it's off of or if the lever matches. I just want this dam thing to work. I'd hook up a cable if I could. What are my options? Thanks in advance. Great forum!
  17. jimmyenglish
    which pins? Are the pins in the dash board? Is there a module somewhere? Thanks so much.
  18. jimmyenglish
    Hi guys. Weird thing started happening today. Rolling down the road, the warning light pops on and the dash goes through it's start up routine. It doesn't interupt the motor running at all but it'll kill the cruise if it's on. Happens every 50-75 miles with more and more recurring frequency. Any one have any info on this? Thanks! Great forum!
  19. jimmyenglish
    Hi guys. Thanks for the replies. The cruise cancel swtich wires were pinched, causing the short. Cleaned it up. All's well. Thanks again!
  20. jimmyenglish
    Hi everyone. Just left for a 6k run and I'm I have a bad ground somewhere on the #5 "signal" fuse. This just happened. The first 1k was fine. The bike ran fine and charges fine.With the key on(engine off, the volt meter is way down. Around 9 volts. When I hit the brake, the gauge goes up to normal. With the engine on, the voltmeter stays at the very low voltage and when I hit the brake, the gauge goes up to 13 or so. Usually, the gauge shows 14+ with the motor running. Testing my trailer lights, the fuse blew. With nothing connected, the fuse is hotter than hell.On the bordeline of blowing. What all is attached to the "signal"fuse? What should I start disconnecting? Overall, the lights are fine, cranks strong, runs fine. But this fuse is going to blow and I'm afraid if I take off, I'll burn up the stator cuz something is drawing a lot. Please Help! Thanks!
  21. jimmyenglish
    Mine doesn't have that. Was that an option? The only outer dials are the audio compensation knob and the tone control. I've fiddled with both and when I speak into the intercom mic, the audio diminishes. Any other ideas? Thanks!
  22. jimmyenglish
    Hi guys! Just bought a couple IMC hsg35u's per recommendation in this forum. Very impressed with how well they work and how good they sound, especially for the $. I'm trying to figure is there any way to stop the radio from muting/turn down when we talk. We're both musicians and are constantly singing. Surely there must be an attenuation pot somewhere. Any ideas? Thanks!
  23. jimmyenglish
    Hey everyone. Great forum! I'm shopping for headsets for my wife and I. I've been looking at the J&M 279's (we both have modulars. I've also been intrigued by the bluetooth headsets. I love the idea of being able to use my phone, however, I would like to tie into the onboard system as well. I ride solo a lot on several different bikes. Is there a bluetooth headset that also integrates with the onboard intercom and my wifes hardwired heaset? Thanks!
  24. jimmyenglish
    I'm going to casually start looking for a new final drive for my 86'. It's too damn noisy. I don't want to use the 83-85 ones. I want the newest one I can find. Will the 2nd gen drives fit? Thanks. Great forum!
  25. jimmyenglish
    Aha! Thanks Condor! I wonder if I could find a stainless ring connector?
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