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raceman62race

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  1. raceman62race
    We bought the bike used and I think it has after market exhaust. Not sure about jetting. I know it runs well and gets about 35 mpg. I am currently running Rotella 10W-30. Normally it takes about 2 weeks to get 250 miles but we did go to Tybee a bout 3 weeks ago and then we went to Asheville and they both were 250 miles one way. Had to add oil at Tybee before the ride home, when we got home from Tybee I added oil, and when we got to Asheville and before, the ride home and added oil when we got home from Asheville.
  2. raceman62race
    I have not ran a compression test. I do have a compression gauge and I will do that tomorrow if I get a chance or Sunday at the latest. After a few seconds start up, it doesn't have any visible smoke at all. Pipes are black but no visible oil.
  3. raceman62race
    Thanks for the replies..... I don't think it is weeping from the oil filter o-ring area. We store the scoot in the car port and we have never seen any oil on the floor under the bike. I have also looked it over pretty well looking for any sign of a leak and I haven't found anything. When I add oil, it is usually barely visible in the sight glass. After the 1/2 quart is added, it goes 3/4 the way up the glass....just a little over half way up. Haven't tried to see if it gets lower than barely visible in the sight glass....sort of scares me riding with low oil but I will give it a try to see what happens. It does dump out dark blue/black smoke at start up and it is a little more than I would like to see. It does clear up after a minute or 2. I will look into replacing the valve seals and see how that works. Virago's are air cooled so there isn't any coolant. Thanks for the ideas and if anyone has any other ideas, please don't hesitate to post.
  4. raceman62race
    I bought my wife a 1990 Virago 1100 for Christmas. The odometer showed 17,000 and change. The bike looked to be in really great shape. However, I have had to add about 1/2 quart of oil every 250 miles. If the odometer was correct at 17,000 miles, I would think the rings should still be in good shape. It doesn't leak any oil. Is there anywhere else the oil could be going besides ring blow-by? Any help/advise would be greatly appreciated! Thanks
  5. raceman62race
    I am not an expert in this area but I will throw in my 2 cents worth. I have been running stock road king pipes for a little over 6 months with stock carb steeting and I have had absolutely no problems. In my own mind, I have a hard time understanding why the re jeting would be necessary as long as you don't tinker with the air filter box. I use to have a Suzuki VL 1500 and a popular mod was to remove the air horn from the air filter box and that unrestricted the air flow and that required re jetting. On the Suzuki, (and I would assume the Yamaha is the same) it relyed on the negative pressure created from the design of the filter box to help pull fuel out of the carbs. If you took the filter box off and tried to rev up the engine, it would start stumbling. Put on the breather box and she runs fine. It's still going to have the same negative pressure in the filter box reguardless of the slip ons. I would like for someone to explain the theory for re jetting with a exhaust change.
  6. raceman62race
    We got home safely and dry at 2:00PM. We really had a great time with all the twisty roads, Biltmore House, people, food, campsite.........We want to say thank you to everyone that made this weekend what it was. We especially want to thank Randy and Laura for their hospitality. We went to the Biltmore house with David and Laura and it was amazing. What a great group of people!!!!!! John & Melinda
  7. raceman62race
    Are there any plans for a M & E for Friday? I know many are looking forward to the German Resturant on Sat night.......
  8. raceman62race
    Goog job & NICE BIKE!!! Congratulations !!!
  9. raceman62race
    The wife and I will be coming in from central GA on 2 scoots mid day Fri. She rides a Virago and I have a RSV. Her Virago doesn't have much room to pack anything and I will have the tent, sleeping bag, clothes...............on the RSV. We won't have any room for chairs or stools to use around camp. If someone that might be coming in a car that has a couple of extra folding chairs they could bring, I would appreciate it greatly!!!
  10. raceman62race
    We have reserved site D-20. If anyoine wants to share the site with us, they are more than welcome. We will be arriving at the KOA about lunch time Friday.
  11. raceman62race
    In my opinion, anyone with a minimal amount of mechanical skill can do it. Adventure sent me some instructions and after briefly skimming over them, I started the install and never referred back to them. As far as electrical, most recommend running the lights through a relay that would have to be purchased separately. There is a thread on here with a good wiring diagram if using a relay. ti really wasn't that difficult.
  12. raceman62race
    Very nice looking!!
  13. raceman62race
    Thank you Adventure for sending me the instructions. I go them installed last night. I ran a fused power source from the battery and through a relay for the lights. I switched power off of the accessories plug for the coil on the relay......thanks again!!
  14. raceman62race
    About the cheapest I've seen them go for on E-bay was about $139.00. I've also seen them go for quite a bit more too.
  15. raceman62race
    Thanks for the info. I think with the instructions you have already given me, I might be able to get them installed. I am goiing to attempt this Sat morning. If I run into any issues, I'l give you a shout........Thanks a bunch!
  16. raceman62race
    I purchased a mounting bar and passing lamp off of E-bay for my 08 RSV. Either I have over looked the instructions or they didn't send any. I am an electrician so the electrical part is no problem. I'm looking for the mechainical instructions. I've searched for a thread with mechanical instructions and didn't find any. Found a lot on the electrical side.....that doesn't mean there isn't one, I just couldn't find it. My questions are: 1. How do I incorporate the blinkers? 2. Exactly where does it mount? 3. Mechanically, how much time should I plan on spending mounting the lights? Any advise would be appreciated.... Thanks!!
  17. raceman62race
    Just ordered one last week and I have recieved shipping notice from UPS that ithas been shipped and scheduled delivery is the 7th.......
  18. raceman62race
    My wife and I will be arriving from GA around Friday at lunch time and we will be leaving Sunday. Looking forward to this event! I think we are staying on site D-20
  19. raceman62race
    Before I bought my 08 RSV last August, I checked with my insurance company (Allstate) to see how much full coverage would be and I was quoted $730.00 per year for just the RSV. I shoped around and ended up insuring my scoots with Geico. My current rates are $325.00 year. That includes full coverage for the RSV and liability on my wifes 93 Virago 1100
  20. raceman62race
    Count Melinda and I in on the German Resturant Saturday night!!
  21. raceman62race
    Lilbeaver...you know you can purchase a Honda Goldwing vent off of E-bay for about $40.00 and cut it into the windshield and you will have a windshield with a vent like the clearview?
  22. raceman62race
    OK guys....here is what happened to me.....I've had my bike since the end of last August and it has the stock pillow top seat. I've logged in 400+ miles in one day with no problem in cool/cold weather. My wife and I did our first somewhat long trip last weekend (since it has been hot weather) which was 250 miles one way. It was HOT...about 97 degrees and mostly freeway riding. As you know on the RSV, there is no way to get highway pegs mounted very high because of limited crash bar space....especially if you have vents installed and I do, so if you rest you feet on the pegs, your legs are in somewhat of a downward position. Most of the trip, I was riding with my legs streched out straight with my feet resting on top of my highway pegs. This seemed to put a decent amount of pressure on my inner legs right there at the tank but it seemed tolerable. When we got to our destination, my upper legs had blisters rubbed on them right under the boys! We stayed from Friday to Monday. By Monday, my legs felt much better. On the way home, I didn't strech out and I kept my feet on the stock floor boards all the way home and I didn't have blisters when I got home. I've ordered a Corbin seat and I hope it is built in such a way I can stretch out for long distances without getting blisters on my inner legs.
  23. raceman62race
    Jack, Painting really does require a TON of work and a certain degree of skill. All of the work is in the preparation. There is a degree of skill in spraying the paint on the surface because you can end up with "dry spots" or runs. If you want to learn to paint, instead of painting the scoot first, I would suggest finding something small....maybe a child's wagon like they drag around the yard....and paint it with the same type of paint (not necessarily color) that you are going to use on your scoot. If it turns out nice, great! You can use that as a test to see if you are willing to go through the work of disassembling, preping, painting and assembling. If it doesn't turn out well, you will know not to touch your scoot. I don't work at a body shop any longer and on occasion I will paint a car in my shop and even as an experienced painter, I am constantly battling trash in the paint. I have filters in my air line....water separator, cartridge filter, toilet paper filter....and I hang plastic on each side of the car and use a very small vent fan. I wet the floor of the shop before I spray to keep down dust and still end up with some specs of trash in the paint that I have to sand out. There is a lot of things that you have to get just right. If you want to learn to paint, you have to start somewhere just be sure it's on something that's not a valuable to you as your scoot
  24. raceman62race
    Does anyone have a beverage/cup holder that doesn't hit the tank with steering at full turn? Where did you get it? Thanks!!!
  25. raceman62race
    I use to work at a body shop and still remember how to do a little painting and here are my suggestions: 1. Don't use a spray can. Use a spray gun. It can be a cheap gun and it will give you a great finish. The cheaper guns won't last as long as the expensive ones (the nozzle wealrs out quicker) but for the most part, they will provide you with a great finish. 2. I would suggest using a base/clear coat paint because it is very forgiving 3. Any scratches, paint cracks....... will have to be sanded down to the metal or plastic and primed. I suggest using 2 part epoxy primer 4. Grind away all of the paint in and around dents and fill with body filler then sand with 80 grit sand paper, then go to 220 and finally 400 to a smooth finish. You must be able to rub your fingers over the area and not be able to feel when you go from metal to filler. You may have to repeat the process to get a good smooth feel. If you feel anything, it will be visible. Prime the repaired area. 5. Wet sand the entire surface to be painted with 400 grit sandpaper 6. Wash area to be painted with simple green and scrub with a scotch brite pad and rinse throughly 7. Mix base coat according to manufacturers instructions and spray on a light coat. Put on about 4 coats waiting about 15 minutes between coats. If you get trash in the paint, wait 24 hours and wet sand out the trash with 1000 grit sandpaper. You must also sand the entire painted surface with 1000 grit sandpaper if you don't apply the clear within a couple hours of spraying the base coat. If you don't get trash in the paint, spray on clear. 8. Mix clear according to manufacturer instructions. Spray on about 4 or 5 decent coats. 9. Allow clear to dry for a week. Wet sand out any trash with 1000 grit sandpaper and wet sand any dry spots you see in the clear. Buff with an electric buffer with med grit buffing compound. Finish buffing with finesse it buffing compound.
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