GaryZ

Did you get it fixed???

My '85 also has two helmet locks that come in handy Sure miss them on my '92!

I have a 5x10 enclosed trailer. My two Ninja ZX11's will not fit in it, much less my two Ventures.

:whistling:My original '85 engine did not use or lose oil. My '92 engine and my '87 engine weep oil out of the wire harness at the clutch slave. You will find oil on your kick-stand. The '87 must also be burning oil because I need to add every third fill-up. No one sees any smoke! If I wash the bikes regularly, and I do, there are rarely any drips on the ground. When there is a drip, it is because I parked on the side stand. BTW: And this will likely cause a few comments; I tried synthetic oil in my '87 engine after breaking in the cams and the poor thing leaked all over. Switched back to dino oil and only have the weeping now.

use a voltmeter and monitor the battery when you press the start button; Normal would be 12.5V dropping to no less than 9V. If the voltage drops below 9V, the battery is bad (will not support a load). You can verify this by jumping the battery from a car . . .

Pulling the center stand up higher is not an option because it is already tight against the mufflers . . .

My ZX11D Ninja will shake its head at 50mph when the front tire is "cupped". Lightly run your hand along the edge of tread on your front tire and check for "cupping" or waves in the tread.

I am having the same problem when carrying a passenger on my '92 My '85 (80k+ miles) has had stuff removed and feels 50 lbs lighter than the '92 The thing does not drag anything (55 PSI) until I've run out of tread on my E-III tire. It does have Progressive fork springs and the front sits a little higher than stock. The '92 (30k original miles) drags the center stand (74 PSI) when I turn into my neighborhood at walking speed. I removed the rubber stoppers that held the center stand off of the mufflers (non-stock mufflers) and gained a little clearance. Not enough. This really bugs me . . . The First Gen VR does not use dog-bones like my Ninja. It has a wishbone lower arm. Has anyone tried to shim/spacer the rear suspension? What about flipping the wishbone?

They look better

My exact experience

Yes . . . What he said

Why not? It works great . . .

My '85 has the mechanical anti-dive and strange things could happen with only one fork leg getting stiff during a hard stop. My '85 has a splitter from a Ninja and brake lines to both front brakes. The front brake master cylinder works fine. I did increase the "stroke" with the adjuster under the front brake handle. BTW, my '85 has Progressive fork springs and the anti-dives are disconnected. I recommend installing two brake lines from the front master to the two front brakes. I ordered a pair of brake lines from an outfit in Canada for my Ninja and the cost was less than $80. A double banjo bolt at the front master cylinder and the rest is the same as stock. These new brake lines came with single and double banjo bolts with washers.

Been running Elite III front & rear on my '85 for a couple of years and like them. The only issue is that I override the edges! My '92 had a new set of Elite II on the front & rear. I don't like the front. It feels loose and it hunts at slow speeds. Always feels like it is low on pressure (it's not).

I bought a UClear system (Bluetooth) to communicate with my passenger (works pretty good) and I have been researching how to get my bike's audio to play in the UClear speakers. I already have a cassette adapter to plug in MPG player/iPod/GPS. It seems like I should be able to adapt a Bluetooth transmitter to the bike's headset plug and transmit to the UClear system. This will only require a Din-to-mini adapter. Only the CB microphone input will be disconnected. I will let the folks know how it turns out . . . Update: I ordered and received a bluetooth transmitter to my UClear intercom as-advertised. However, I discovered that bluetooth devices can only link to one device at a time. It will not link to her helmet and my helmet at the same time. This means that I will need to build a "Y" connector for the headphone on my VR and patch two (2) different bluetooth transmitters; one for me and one for her. More info to come . . .

My '85 had side bents . . . I remove them in the cold months and install solid clear plastic panels in the summer. I like folks to clearly see that beautiful V4! Hey, maybe someone could duplicate the side vents in clear plastic

Of course all wiring carries current. The issue is higher current applications and reliability. A trailer connector usually has a 10A supply fuse. A poor connection results in a resistance that generates heat at the connection, not the wire.

It's not funny. My aircraft experience was 10 years in the Air Force working on airborne avionics. Things do change, so I did a brief search and found that standards for aircraft wiring is still properly installed mechanical crimp connections for reliability. I am simply sharing this information. I do not wish to step on any toes, or burst any bubbles.

My '85 comes apart very much as described by Venturous. A piece of the frame is removed from the right side that allows the engine to rotate away from the driveshaft. You can see the missing frame piece in the attached photo. I used a floor jack under the engine and two of us removed it. I was really concerned about stabbing the engine back in the drive system. However, it went back together easier than it came apart.

My '85 had a wire pull loose from the ignition switch. Large red wire that apparently powered everything. I soldered it back together.

I also blocked off the anti-dive after installing Progressive fork springs. The anti-dive is not really needed with the new springs and the anti-dive makes it a bigger job to bleed the front brakes. Also, the anti-dive makes the front brakes feel funny, especially after I de-linked them.

This one of those times where I need to disagree . . . I worked ten years on large airplanes and the standard is; DO NOT SOLDER WIRES THAT CARRY CURRENT The problem is that solder has no flexibility on a vehicle that vibrates continuously. In addition, high current can melt solder. It seems that a whole bunch of automotive and motorcycle gurus want to solder where there is lots of vibration and heat. Just sayin' . . .

I have a ColorTune. However, the bike runs smooth at idle and all the way to WOT. It does seem to be running rich (smells rich, 32mpg). The ColorTune is used to set the low-speed circuit, which seems to be working fine. I am not sure why the ColorTune was suggested for a WOT issue . . . Can you explain? Sync carbs? As I said above, I am not sure why this is suggested . . . TCI: There are supposed to be two good TCI's on this bike. I have another good one from my '85. I can switch them and test. Question: The bike seems to be leaking a small amount of fuel around the right-front carb boot. I would expect air leaking at the carb boot to affect idle. Does anyone think it could affect WOT? Please keep the ideas coming!

Any ideas on the WOT problem would be great!

I would check for holes in the carb diaphragms. Remove the air cleaner and watch the carb slides operate with the engine running. All the slides should move when you move the throttle.