GaryZ

I don't know if anyone answered your air suspension question to your satisfaction. My '85 has the compressor removed and I installed a couple of air pressure gauges with air ports. Cost: about $18 A $20 air pump that runs on 12V is used to top off the suspension, when needed. A small bicycle hand pump would also work. I also have installed Progressive fork springs, so, I put about 6 psi of air in the forks when carving corners. No air normally. The rear suspension I generally run about 50 psi of air. BTW: I carry around 250lbs . . .

Go to any auto parts store and buy a universal speedo cable. It has the same square ends as the stock cable. Cut it to length and glue the end on. Done! Gary

Is the mute engaged?

Yes, when one brake disk is trying to slow or stop an 800 lb. motorcycle, that brake feels very weak. I find myself applying the brake and then moving my grip out to the end of the lever for more leverage. My '85 uses a slightly modified Kawasaki splitter to connect the front brake master cylinder to both front brakes. The lines were custom made by a hose shop in OKC. I plan on redoing this with two separate brake lines from the master to each disk. This worked really well on my adventure Ninja. I picked the lines up on-line from a company in Canada. Tell them the length, the ends, and the orientation of the ends. Both lines cost about what one line would cost in OKC. I did not mention my mods to the anti-dive; I put Progressive fork springs in the '85, disconnected and capped the anti-dive devices. The Progressives are a significant improvement to fork action, and the anti-dives on a Gen 1 MKI make the front brake feel spongy.

This is one of those subjects that can stir up the troops I can tell you that I de-linked my '85 and it still has the original brakes. My reason was that I wanted to have similar brake function to my sport bike I did not feel safe going down my daughter's gravel driveway and I disliked the "dead" feel of the linked front brake I now have a '92 VR with the stock linked brakes and I can tell you this; I did not feel safe going down my daughter's gravel driveway and I disliked the "dead" feel of the linked front brake I have rode the '92 for about 5k miles thinking I might get used to the linked brakes. The only thing that has happened is I have worn out the right front pads! I like and I want lots of front brake action and feedback on my right hand. If you have the same need . . . I recommend that you de-link the brakes.

A good charging system has volts 13.5 to 14.5dc when the RPM gets above 1500 What is yours?

Yes, it is connected to a switched 12V. I used the accessory terminal on the fuse block

I replaced my whip antenna with a powered antenna and hid it below the windshield. It works great! Here's a link to photos; http://www.venturerider.org/forum/dbtgallery.php?do=browse_user&userid=5983&gal=gallery&id=5791&type=albums

My '85 has been weeping above the kickstand for years and the general comment from the experts has been wire loom grommets. I changed the left-side engine cover gasket today on my '92 because it seemed to be leaking a dollar sized puddle when parked. The wire loom grommets that everyone talks about are attached to this cover. Can I goop these grommets with gasket shellack on the '85 and seal the weeping?

My '92 maybe has the same problem. If I twist the throttle past a certain point (80%?) it acts like it has dropped a cylinder! Otherwise it runs, starts and drives great. It will red line if I ease up to it. I have a fuel smell that I tracked to a leaky float bowl. PO changed the ignition box and I synch'd the carbs. Did you solve your problem? Inquiring minds want to know . . . Edit: 13 Jul 2015 I reconnected the original ignition box and sprayed carb cleaner everywhere while the air box was off. Now the Blue Bomber runs like a raped ape! WOT in any gear and easily red lines in lower gears. I'm thinking the carb cleaner knocked loose debris in one of the carb jets. Lovin' my Gen I GaryZ

My ZX11 Adventure is a 1993 model with over 61,000 miles. I made a lot of changes; - dirt bike handle bars and adapter using 1/4" aluminum with short risers found on ebay. - Suzuki Vstrom 1000 forks (2" longer and nearly 2" more travel) - adapted Kaw front wheel and brakes - Suzuki SV650 front fender - bobbed rear fender - shorter dog-bones on rear suspension and flipped chain-adjusters to lift rear - 1" dropped driver footpegs - Universal top box with custom mount The picture with me on it was before the top box was installed. I was able to slide the longer forks about 3/4" up in the trees and with the rear lifted to properly match the front, the bike is about 1.5" taller than stock. I still need to extend the kick-stand and center-stand. For now I carry around a 2x4 block!

I have rode my ZX11 Ninja in sand and gravel. The low and narrow handle bars that are standard on sport bikes make this type of riding very difficult. Both of your pictures show somewhat narrow handle bars. I suggest wider bars for more leverage. I have 30" dirt bike bars on my ZX11 Adventure and they work really well. With your feet under your hips you will be able to lift your bottom easier when needed.

On my '85 I have removed enough stuff to make a very noticeable difference compared to my '92; - removed CB control panel and transceiver. I could pull out the wiring. - removed the CLASS controller and pump. I mounted air gauges and air valves and use a small air pump to adjust suspension. - removed the kickstand switch (a safety device) All of the intercom mounts, controls and wiring could be removed. Cruise control and wiring could be removed.

Yes, I ride a bit aggressive on twisty roads. My '85 CLASS has been removed and I have separate gauges and air valves for front & rear. I'm 6'2", 240 with a 34" inseam. My passenger is XXXlbs ;-) I have Progressives in the forks with approximately 1.5" spacers, air pressure is 6lbs when riding twistys, usually zero. The rear air is set for 55lbs and damping is on "4". I'm not sure what hard parts were dragging. Originally thought it was mufflers, might be center-stand. Here is a picture of my rear E3 after a romp through the hills around Eureka Springs, AR;

Dear Great White, The very first sentence of the first copied text says "I want to raise the rear of my '92 VR". And you are correct that I explained my issue on another post on 8-1-2014; "My '85 (80k+ miles) has had stuff removed and feels 50 lbs lighter than the '92. The thing does not drag anything (55 PSI) until I've run out of tread on my E-III tire. It does have Progressive fork springs and the front sits a little higher than stock. The '92 (30k original miles) drags the center stand (74 PSI) when I turn into my neighborhood at walking speed. I removed the rubber stoppers that held the center stand off of the mufflers (non-stock mufflers) and gained a little clearance. Not enough. This really bugs me . . ." I have been riding and modifying my ZX11 Ninja for the past 13 years. Carrying a passenger my modified '85 carves through corners while my '92 drags the center stand if I think about leaning over. A bit higher in the rear for ground clearance could also improve turn-in as it did on my Ninja. You are also correct that many people seem to not be able to modify their machine unless there is a "kit". Kits are fine, if you can find one and have lots of money to spend. I prefer to build stuff.

I'm pretty sure I said raise the rear of the bike for better ground clearance and quicker "turn-in". Here is a picture of the stock shock. It has eyelets at both ends like many car shocks. I am wondering if I can find a coil-over that is 1" longer than the stock unit with adjustable damping. Prices seem to be around $150 for the shock. I would need to know a good spring-rate to use for an 800lb motorcycle. Springs seem to be around $38. Less than $200 for a new rear shock assembly . . . Yes!

Happy Birthday! Hey . . . I'm only a month late

Very good information . . . Thanks! I think the stock coil-wrapped shock could be replaced with something a little longer. I would need to know the spring rate needed to support an 800lb motorcycle carrying two full-sized adults. Anyone???

I want to raise the rear of my '92 VR. Looking at rear shocks on ebay I found some with an exposed spring (usually listed as '83) and others with a rubber boot. Can anyone tell me what I'm looking at? Could I replace the rear shock with a coil-wrapped shock that is a little bit longer?

There are drain holes at the bottom of those covers. Water can collect when washing or riding in the rain. It is best to check these holes and keep them open.

I may have just stumbled on the reason my '85 (with Progressive fork springs) doesn't drag hard parts until I run out of rear tire tread; I included a 1" spacer when assembling the forks! The '92 drags the center stand simply turning into the neighborhood when riding double. I have to run 71lbs of air in the '92 rear shock and rarely more than 55lbs in the '85.