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GaryZ

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Everything posted by GaryZ

  1. GaryZ
    Pegs, Can you tell me how to route the vacuum lines on a non-California VR? I want to remove the California vapor recovery system . . .
  2. GaryZ
    Maybe I need to round the corners of mine, like yours. I now get wind noise and buffeting behind my cut-down windshield. I made a template of the original top shape and cut the same shape 5" lower.
  3. GaryZ
    Maybe I can make a "lip" out of the 5" piece that I cut off . . .
  4. GaryZ
    You make an excellent point here. However, most folks are too wrapped up in their own ego to accept such a simple idea. BTW, have you been watching me synch the carbs on my VR? You described my adjustment method almost exactly!
  5. GaryZ
    That's good info. My cut-down windshield is at my chin. The next windshield will be a little taller . . .
  6. GaryZ
    Good stuff Dan! I need to check the little o-ring after repairing one diaphragm . . .
  7. GaryZ
    From #12 of this thread; "All slides should move about the same amount when you rev the engine. The slides that do not move much will likely have split or leaking diaphragms. Bad diaphragms will not allow the bike to rev past maybe 4000 rpm."
  8. GaryZ
    All slides should move about the same amount when you rev the engine. The slides that do not move much will likely have split or leaking diaphragms. Bad diaphragms will not allow the bike to rev past maybe 4000 rpm.
  9. GaryZ
    I agree. Put SeaFoam in your gas tank and drive around for a few miles to let it get mixed up. Park the bike overnight and let the SeaFoam work. I have also successfully cleaned up the idle circuit by removing the air-horn screws and shooting Berryman carb cleaner into the ports using the red plastic straw. Remember, before removing these screws, turn them all the way in and count the turns (write it down). After shooting the cleaner you can re-install the screws to their original setting. The idle circuit is critical for not just idle, but any steady throttle below 2500 rpm. And the idle circuit is the most susceptible to clogging.
  10. GaryZ
    I found the attached page that shows the fuel vapor recovery system used on California models. I also discovered that my 1985 has this system! Does anyone out there have a standard diagram (non-California) for the vent system?
  11. GaryZ
    Checked fuel mileage this morning. After the adjustments and the smoother running I expected an improvement . . . No change! Maybe its my right wrist
  12. GaryZ
    My '85 idle adjust is too tight for my bare hands and I use a flat blade screw driver to make changes. A long flat-blade will reach the idle adjust without removing any side covers and the ridges on the idle screw give the flat-blade something to bite.
  13. GaryZ
    Randy, What about the other side? My '85 has an ugly fuel something mounted under the left side panel.
  14. GaryZ
    I want to expand on this . . . The 1st Gen VR carb synch says to adjust 1-to-2, 3-to-4, and finally 2-to-4. This adjustment sequence does not need a 4-carb tool!
  15. GaryZ
    Recently I sealed a fuel leak on one carb. During testing I noticed one carb slide was lagging behind the others (bad diaphragm). For the moment I have repaired the diaphragm with silicone. The bike was running rough after the repair, leading me to believe the synch was probably off. My home-made synch tool verified that the carbs were off and I made adjustments. The bike did not seem to properly respond to these adjustments. I decided to pull the pilot screws caps and check the settings. It has been said that a general setting for the pilot screws would be 2.25 turns out. I found mine to be between 3.25 and 3.75! My thinking is that after 24 years and 63,000+ miles, these screws must have backed out on their own. I adjusted all of them to 2.5 turns out and took my wife to dinner (45 mile round-trip). The bike is running much smoother below 4k and seems to have better torque. Comments from the gallery?
  16. GaryZ
    That looks very good. I recently broke one of mine and removed both. The VR really looks better without them, however, the heat coming out of the opening is too much for Oklahoma in the summer. I will be checking out heater ducts at Home Depot!
  17. GaryZ
    I do not drive a big rig, however, this seems like an opportunity to say something to bikers in general . . . It is absolutely wrong when a car changes lanes in front of my motorcycle and gives me less than a car-length of space before moving over. It is every bit as wrong for a motorcycle to do the same thing when changing lanes in front of a car or truck. And yet I see bikes doing this foolishness five times as often as cars! Let's get out collective heads in the game.
  18. GaryZ
    Thanks for the drawing and part numbers. I may need them.
  19. GaryZ
    You noticed! I was a bit surprised myself when I pulled off the air cleaner. Although the grime made it easy to find the fuel leak! I have had the bike for a year and thought I had cleaned it up pretty good. It had 61,000+ miles on it when I got it, 63,000+ now.
  20. GaryZ
    When I sold my last street bike with spokes (1972 Honda) and replaced it with a mag wheel Yamaha, I was amazed at the difference on the highway. The Yamaha would dance all over the rain grooves and hardly hold a straight line. I still will not go back to spoke wheels on the street. As was already said, they are a royale pain to take care of . . .
  21. GaryZ
    mbrood: Did not ask about the part number that you found. The function of the cap appears to be for plugging a hole left over from casting the body of the carb. It was much easier to simply epoxy the old cap. The epoxy is in place and seems to be sealing the gas leak. I will ride it around for a bit and re-check.
  22. GaryZ
    Thanks Guys! The local Yamaha shop has a mechanic that is very experienced with the Vmax. He says the plug is not available as a replacement and he suggested getting another carb. We discussed sealing the plug with epoxy and he seemed to think that would work. I have sealed Q-Jet carbs with epoxy and this seems to make sense to me. Any comments?
  23. GaryZ
    My 1985 VR is weeping gas out of a plug on the top of carb #1. The manual is not much help. The plug is about the size of a dime and has four very small slots around the perimeter (maybe used to remove?). You can see it in the picture below (its the shiny spot next to the #1 carb throat). Can anyone help me with ideas on a fix?
  24. GaryZ
    +11Vdc at the TCI - static +7Vdc at the TCI - cranking
  25. GaryZ
    I tested my 1985 VR for you . . . At the battery terminals = +12.5Vdc At the fuse block = +11.8 At the fuse block and cranking = +9.8 My Comments: The voltages above show that I have poor connections or wiring between the battery and the fuse block resulting in a drop of .8Vdc. I plan on making improvements to the stock battery cables and such. Yes, my VR turns over slow and is sometimes hard to start. A good battery (car or bike) will not drop below +9V at the terminals when cranking the engine. This is assuming the battery is properly sized to the application. A battery that drops below +9V during cranking will no longer hold a load and should be replaced. If your battery is dropping to 4/5 volts at the terminals during cranking, the starter should not be turning the engine over. My guess is that you are seeing this 4/5 volts on the system and the problem is battery cables and/or connections.
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