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GaryZ

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Everything posted by GaryZ

  1. I like seeing my engine through the side covers and so I removed the vented panels. The problem is the massive amount of heat that blows on my feet and legs during the summer. I found 11" x 14" clear Lexan sheets at Home Depot for $3.49. They are the perfect size to make clear side panels. I made the panels and installed them yesterday. They work! I would show you pictures, but, you can't see the clear panels in a photo! Maybe they will get dirty . . .
  2. I have a garage and tools if you need any repairs when you reach OKC
  3. Your symptom reminds me of a CB350 Honda I once had . . . It would start, idle, and run up to about 4,000rpm. Then, it would fall on its face. Finally found the problem to be ripped diaphragms in the CV carbs.
  4. Thanks!!! This bike has the same type vacuum ports on the carb boots as the VR.
  5. Does anyone know where/how to adjust the carb sync on a 2001 600 Bandit S ? I do not have a manual and can't find anything on-line . . .
  6. Battery voltage is good @12.6V loaded voltage above 9V = good alternator @ 13.8V = a little low, within tolerance I would suggest cleaning an/or tightening the battery terminals. The description is classic poor contact. Press the start button and lights dim with no starter rotation. All the time would likely be a dirty connection. Intermittent is usually a loose connection.
  7. My new and improved carb synch tool. And, it works great! My apologies for the earlier comments about how my two unit did a good job. This new four-way unit clearly is superior. The beast now runs smoooooth . . .
  8. When I was in the Air Force from 1972 to 1982 we had to have a decal on our vehicles to get on base. I did not want to stick it on the fork leg because it never came off cleanly. I fabricated a a plate that bolted to the fork leg. One day I was stopped at the main gate and this young SP tells me that the decal is not right and must be on the fork leg. I said it was fine on the plate. He said the plate could be unbolted and removed. I said the fork can be unbolted and removed. I asked to see his supervisor. The supervisor agreed with me and I went on my merry way.
  9. You missed the part about "briefly". I've had a throttle lock on my ZX11 for years and I like the way I can lock it, reach up and scratch my nose, and return to the throttle in the time it takes the VR cruise control to engage. In other words, the VR cruise control is SLOW to engage for those moments when I am in town and need my right hand off the throttle "briefly".
  10. I'm not sure I see the potential improvements converting to MKII brakes. My MKI front brakes are 298mm versus 282mm on the MKII. My rear brake is 298mm (same as Vmax) versus 320mm on the MKII. With 80% of my stopping power on the front brakes, I already have the bigger rotors. And, the increase in the rear rotor size offers minimal improvement due to the 20% need of that brake. It would seem to me the improvements that I want are going to be with the master cylinders producing more pressure. Thus my question about the Vmax rear master.
  11. I live in OKC. I can help with the de-linking process . . .
  12. Please share how you pulled the "proportioning stuff" out. Wouldn't it be OK to cap the original rear brake out and connect the rear brakes to the "front" side of the master?
  13. I have this same set-up and I want about 50% more rear brake.
  14. This is exactly where oil is still leaking. What will fix it?
  15. So, will a Vmax rear master bolt-on and work on my 1st Gen?
  16. I de-linked my front brakes using one of the original rubber hoses from the front master to a Kawasaki splitter, then new braided steel hoses to the calipers. The front brake works much better, but, the lever feels soft. This could be the rubber hoses still being used (two more are on the anti-dives) or it could be the front master. I will share when I have figured it out . . .
  17. I rest my right hand on top of the front brake master, or the end of the handlebar upright (1st Gen). This allows me to lean forward and take the weight off of my back. My other bike is a ZX11D Ninja and it's seating position is much better on my back . . . I guess I need to fall off of my wallet and buy a driver's back rest for the VR. BTW: I love the VR cruise control. However, it does not let me briefly take my hand away to scratch or something. Has anyone added a throttle clamp to a 1st Gen?
  18. I didn't think the Vmax had linked brakes. If the Vmax is not linked, and the rear master will fit my VR, I might have a 1985 VR rear master to trade!
  19. I would like clear lenses for front and rear turn signals. Anyone know where to find them? With clear rear lenses I would install dual element bulbs for turn signals + brake lights. BTW: Nice job Earl!
  20. The idle adjuster is hard to see and reach. It is located between the #1 and #2 carbs. It is horizontally oriented. It is about the size of a dime with raised bumps around the edge. Turning it clockwise increases idle speed (looking at it from underneath). The adjuster gets hot when the engine is at operating temperature. I use a flat-bladed screw driver to make changes when on the road.
  21. I have updated my cross-reference document to show the Vmax carbs as 35mm.
  22. The Vmax tech manual that I downloaded from Vmax Outlaws contradicts itself (34mm on one page and 35mm on another). All other "specifications" that I searched claimed 35mm. The MKII Service Manual downloaded from this forum (copyright 1989) clearly says "BDS 34mm/Mikuni" on page 8-2 (pdf page 431). This web page lists the 1300 (1986 - 1993) with 34mm carbs; http://www.venturerider.org/history.htm And, my 34mm 1200 carbs plugged right in the 1987 1300 engine that I bought. I would have thought if the 1300 carb boots were for 35mm carbs, my 34mm carbs would have been rather loose . . . They were not.
  23. Not trying to be difficult, but, the technical manuals say that all Gen 1 & Gen 2 Venture have 34mm carbs (listed as BDS 34mm). I have attached a comparison sheet that I did a while ago . . . Are the tech manuals wrong?
  24. I have been balancing my wheel/tires with the axle suspended between a pair of jack stands. Seems to work just fine . . .
  25. I agree with Condor and bongobobny. Cold fill to the max pressure listed on the tire and make some miles! Both of my E3's say 40 psi max on the side.
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