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GaryZ

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Everything posted by GaryZ

  1. GaryZ
    Did this problem get solved? Today my VR started doing about the same thing! Seems to start and run OK. Idles fine. Runs through all the gears good. Runs right up to around 5k and stops accelerating! Gray smoke and gas smell from pipes.
  2. GaryZ
    Now that's funny . . . I don't care who ya are
  3. GaryZ
    You can usually improve sound quality by replacing the original speakers. Many times this is simply because the original units are wore out. Quality is better sound, not louder sound. Getting louder is probably not going to happen unless the sensitivity (efficiency) of the replacement is better than the originals (not likely). You will be connecting the same power (watts) from the stock amplifier to the new speaker and it has lower efficiency, this equals less loud. To get loud requires more power amplifier. The issue of "marine rated" speakers; There are no weather-proof speakers. Some are treated to hold up better outdoors. "Marine rated" is a marketing term. Generally these speakers have a treated woofer cone and maybe better paint to resist corrosion. To use the $22 Clarion units I recommend spraying the woofer cone with a fabric treatment (like used on car upholstery). Don't get carried away, this adds weight to the cone and affects the sound. Place a screen over the front of the speaker, I use two layers of nylon window screen. This provides protection from direct water and direct sun. Note: The sun does as much damage as the water!
  4. GaryZ
    Remove the negative battery cable and connect an ammeter (measures current) in series. Most voltmeters will also do amps. "In series" means the ammeter is wired between the battery and the battery cable. With the key off, any reading means there is a current draw that is draining your battery. Disconnect electrical stuff one at a time until the current draw goes away. Then try and figure out why that particular electrical item is drawing current. You may find that the item is not properly wired through a "switched" fuse circuit and stays hot when the key is off.
  5. GaryZ
    Karl, I think you have this backwards. Oil pressure for these bikes is very erratic. I think the Oil Sending Unit checks oil level at the front of the engine. A warning indicator comes on when oil is low. Mine will come on when slightly low and under hard acceleration.
  6. GaryZ
    That's a beauty, and welcome aboard! I will chime in on air shocks; I ran 12 - 14 PSI in the front until replacing the wore out springs with Progressives at 60,000 miles on the clock. Now I will run 6 PSI fully loaded and 0 PSI the rest of the time. The rear shock usually runs between 40 and 50 PSI. Your front sits up like it may already have Progressives. A simple test is when sitting on the bike, raise your weight up off of the seat with both feet planted, and sit down firmly. The bike should squat somewhat evenly front and rear.
  7. GaryZ
    I was also suffering from heat on the beast. I made clear side covers and cut my old windshield down to 1 inch above the instrument pod. The improvement is dramatic. Smooth air flows over the windshield and hits me at eye level. Engine heat has been cut by 75% on my legs and feet. The passenger heat was only cut by about 50%.
  8. GaryZ
    Here are pictures of my beast . . . First picture is what it looked like after the initial clean up Second picture is after the engine was replaced and all the plastic is off Third picture is the re-assembled beast I rode the beast for two months without the plastic to make sure the running gear was solid. It actually drove and rode very good! I have also imagined building a "naked" Venture since that experience.
  9. GaryZ
    Dude, I go out of town for a couple of days and you go in the hospital. Your wife was supposed to warn me so I could have the trailer ready to roll . . . Keep getting better. I want to take a ride with you one day soon.
  10. GaryZ
    headlight trim at bottom of windshield crash bars saddlebags chin spoiler heavier slower
  11. GaryZ
    I have corrected a couple of specs (thanks Dingy!) on my comparo chart. MKI = 90HP Vmax rear brake = 282mm Attached is the latest and greatest . . .
  12. GaryZ
    I cross-referenced the MKI, MKII, Gen2 and Vmax last year. The MKI front discs are 298mm versus 282mm on the MKII. The front discs are both the same diameter. Attached is the cross-reference pdf for your files.
  13. GaryZ
    Where does the fork oil seem to be coming from? Oil on the chrome fork leg suggests a nick or ding on the fork leg where the seal slides. Oil on the lower leg suggests damage where the fork seal fits into the lower leg. Both of these leaks will need parts replaced. I purchased assembled fork legs for my ZX11 Ninja on ebay, no probs.
  14. GaryZ
    Check out this web site . . . http://www.mctourer.com/MustDo/Arkansas/MustDo_Arkansas.htm I like riding in the Ozark National Forest area. Light traffic, few homes and fantastic roads. These pictures are from a sport bike rally this past June. We had lunch at the Oark Cafe. Good pulled pork sandwiches.
  15. GaryZ
    Yes, vacuum sensor = boost sensor. I am not sure where the thing is located. And, if there is a problem I would also be looking for a vacuum leak. As Goose said, it's best checked with a timing light. Timing should advance as RPM increases.
  16. GaryZ
    A bad Vacuum Sensor . . . would not allow ignition advance causing the engine to not pull RPM with a load. Possible Test = Rev engine from idle, slow to rev If all Diaphragms are split open . . .would not allow engine to run up past 4 - 5k Possible Test = remove air cleaner cover and see if slides are moving equally when throttle twisted No air cleaner; clogged fuel filter . . . allows mixture to lean out to fuel starvation My 2 cents
  17. GaryZ
    Wife swapping! I would offer to help here, but, I don't have a wife
  18. GaryZ
    Seat Nuts . . . That would be Venture Riders
  19. GaryZ
    I suggest replacing your rear wheel with a Vmax 15" and running on the darkside . . .
  20. GaryZ
    I cut my old windshield down to about an inch above the instrument cluster and took it out for an all-day, 100+ degree day of riding. Air hits me about the middle of my face shield. This is a couple of inches higher than the double-bubble wind screen on my Ninja. The VR has more wind noise, but, the air flow is smooth. I get good air around my neck and the vents on my helmet actually works when rolling down the road. I think it is a major improvement for riding in the summer heat. Another member mentioned a VHT product for tinting windshields. I will post more pictures when the thing is tinted.
  21. GaryZ
    I just got back from a 200 mile ride and my cut-down windscreen works great for me. It puts the air flow about eye level and this air moves through my helmet vents at speed. Now I will sand, buff, and tint the thing. Look for pictures soon . . .
  22. GaryZ
    Very nice. I needed more air in my face during the hot months. I cut 4" off of my old screen and hated the buffeting around my head. Last year I rode the VR around without any plastic and the air flow over the instrument cluster was about the same as my Ninja . . . Very smooth and right in my face. How is the air flow for yours? I cut my old screen down last night. It is shorter than yours. About the same height as the mirrors and an inch taller than the instrument cluster. I am giving it a test ride today. If it has smooth air flow, I really like your tint idea.
  23. GaryZ
    Can you see the sliders moving equally?
  24. GaryZ
    My guess: Bad Boost Sensor or maybe bad carb diaphragms
  25. GaryZ
    I found the switch contaminated by my small oil leak in the same area. I sprayed it with electrical contact cleaner, worked it a few times and it is now working normal again. This simply shows that I need to wash and de-grease the poor thing more often . . . Thanks to everyone for the recommendations!
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