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GaryZ

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Everything posted by GaryZ

  1. GaryZ
    I have been running heavy doses of Sea Foam for the last two tanks with no change. A week ago the beast was still messed up. Took her out for a ride today and it is running perfect. After about ten miles I tried running past 5k RPM and got to 6500 without trouble. Found a clear stretch of road and stretched my Vmax cams to 9,000 RPM and was still pulling like a train . . . What's the deal???
  2. GaryZ
    My E3 says "Made in USA" on the sidewall
  3. GaryZ
    Tx2Sturgis' recommendations are excellent. I regularly run Route 66 from Oklahoma City to Tulsa and it is a very nice stretch of road. I have a trailer, tools, and a garage if you have trouble near OKC. Let me know when you are passing through and maybe I can join you for a while . . .
  4. GaryZ
    I have successfully used jack-stands on motorcycles without center stands. With the bike on its side stand, place a jack-stand under a hard part (passenger footrest, etc) on the right side. Lever the bike up on this jack-stand and place a second jack-stand under the same hard part on the left side. It is best to have help with a heavy bike . . .
  5. GaryZ
    Light throttle, less than 1/8th turn, is primarily the low speed circuit. Assuming everything else is right, it still seems like a lean low-speed circuit condition.
  6. GaryZ
    yes
  7. GaryZ
    Congrats on the new bike! Sport-bike windscreens are designed to route the air to your chest. In a perfect world this air flow takes your weight off your hands at speed. The problem is; you've got to be running 100mph. A good sportbike windscreen delivers smooth flow of air to your head. I tried a couple different screens and settled on a Double-Bubble for my Ninja. It moved the air flow up to around my chin and the flow is smooth (smooth = less noise).
  8. GaryZ
    I have modified my Ninja with aftermarket headers, a jet kit, and SuperTrapp mufflers. I adjusted the jets for the best mid-to-high RPM performance and still had problems in the low-speed circuit. My carb tune research suggests that these changes produce a lean low-speed (sometimes called idle circuit) condition. The engine is moving lots more air and the low-speed circuit is still adding the same amount of fuel. This condition can produce some or all of these symptoms; popping during deceleration, surging at light throttle, uneven idle. My fix was a combination of turning out the low-speed screws (1/2 turn) and removing discs from the SuperTrapps until the popping was minimum. I suggest that you check for vacuum leaks, exhaust leaks, and the carb sync. Then open up the low-speed screws. You should initially turn the screws in and count the turns, make a note in your manual. Usually these screws are around 2 turns out. Turn the screws out 1/2 turn more than the stock setting and take a ride. Turning them out more is OK, but, not more than 4 total turns.
  9. GaryZ
    My friend and I have taught his wife and his sister on a 2003 Ninja 250. It looks sporty, sits more like a standard, and is small enough for them to maneuver in parking spaces. The 250 has plenty of power taking off from stops and can run 60-65 mph all day. The only draw-back of the Ninja 250 is at highway speeds rider has to work harder. We made a 40 mile run on a toll road last summer and around 80 mph the Ninja 250 is turning 10,000 rpm! Both ladies have now stepped up to larger and more powerful machines. His wife is now riding a Katana 750 and his sister is on a very nice Bandit 600S.
  10. GaryZ
    Great story . . . Thanks for sharing
  11. GaryZ
    At this time I tend to agree that it is a carb problem. I rode the beast about 60 miles today. It starts and runs in the low and mid circuits. My symptoms are: 1) Will not run above 5k in any gear 2) will not take WOT in any gear, chokes out 3) blubbers off idle when hot 4) harder to start when hot 5) smells of gas A friend on another forum thinks my problem is clogged or stuck main jets. This is supported by a chart I found that shows the main jets of a CV carb do not come into play until about 5k rpm. I guess the carb rack will be coming off . . .
  12. GaryZ
    I don't think it has the "elbow" needed at the front . . .
  13. GaryZ
    Here is proof that girls are evil . . .
  14. GaryZ
    I am using the original front brake master cylinder on my '85 VR. I had steel braided lines made for the two front calipers and reused one of the rubber lines from the master to the splitter. There is an adjustment inside the lever that gets you more "stroke". Getting the air out of the system was a challenge. I had to pump up the lever and break open the line at the front master to get a bunch of air out. Then, I had to pump the lever, tie it with a bungie cord and leave it overnight before I got anything at all! The lever is a little "soft" with plenty of brakes. I think a steel braided line needs to replace the old (and long) rubber line. I plugged the outlet on the rear master, left the rear brake on the original outlet and I have very little rear brake available. This was a mistake and I will be switching them. I really, really like the brakes de-linked.
  15. GaryZ
    Condor makes an excellent point about the clutch. His comment about the 1st Gen rear shock is interesting . . . I didn't know that tidbit of info. I do not have MKII forks on my '85 and I don't have any real problems. The Beast handles very well for a 750 lb touring bike, even riding double. The de-linked stock brakes did not exhibit any fade in the Texas Hill Country. At this time I am not contemplating a fork change. I guess it's a cost thing.
  16. GaryZ
    The dreaded second gear problem is jumping out of gear and into a false neutral. If yours is slipping (revs up, doesn't increase speed) you can do the clutch mod. I did this and have been happy with the results. Nose dive is common when the stock fork springs are wore out. Progressive fork springs will solve the nose dive and seriously improve the ride. However, they will also raise the ground clearance. I used 10awg fork oil and filled to 6" from the top of the fork (fork collapsed). The VR brakes are OK, not stellar. I did not like the linked action because the front brake handle offered very little stopping power only operating the right front rotor. I de-linked my brakes and really like the front brake improvement. Two-up riding should not be bottoming with 50 psi in the rear shock. At least my VR is OK when carrying me and a passenger (400 lbs+). Others have put Vmax heads on their VR. I only put Vmax cams and springs. You can re-jet the carbs. Parts are readily available. Knowledgeable mechanics are little harder to find. I am presently running 2 turns out on the low-speed circuit with Vmax needles and shims. It runs OK, a little rich at lower rpm. I cut an old windscreen down to 1" above the instrument cluster and I really like the improved cooling for hot weather riding. The air flow is smooth and hits me about eye-level. GaryZ
  17. GaryZ
    It would look really good . . . Especially with the rear wheel painted the same as the front
  18. GaryZ
    You can put your finger on one of the vacuum ports with the bike running to check for vacuum. If there is vacuum, the problem is probably with the tuner. Carefully suck on the tuner and look for a meter reaction . . .
  19. GaryZ
    8/3/2011 @ 3:00pm: The hose is OK. Any way to verify the pressure sensor is bad versus the TCI? :( 8/3/2011 @ 5:20pm: I figured out how to test the Pressure Sensor and I have attached a .pdf showing my method. At this point it looks like the TCI. However, I will try cleaning the contacts/connectors. :( 8/4/2011 @ 12:30pm: Cleaned connectors, checked timing advance, shot carb cleaner in all throats and verified diaphragm action. Still same symptom . . . will not drive past 5000 - 5500 rpm Any other ideas out there? :(:(
  20. GaryZ
    How big the job seems is dependent on your mechanical ability. I removed the top and side panels (the side panels can be removed without pulling the seat. Lift the edge of the seat for clearance), removed the air box (it usually comes right off by simply lifting it up), then the battery and battery box (two 9mm bolts on the bottom and 10mm on the front). The pressure sensor is beside the TCI and held on with two cross-tip screws that must be accessed from below. I used a 1/4" ratchet and cross-tip apex to remove the screws and the pressure sensor was out. Re-assembly is straight-forward. Loosen the clamps on the carb boots, set the air box in position and stab the breather hose. I now successfully use a long-handle needle-nose to install the breather hoses on the bottom of the air box. Make sure the air box boots are all the way down on the carbs before tightening the clamps.
  21. GaryZ
    Yes, there is a pool. I just have to run across the 169 degree :225:deck.
  22. GaryZ
    The National Weather Service seems to think it will only hit 111 degrees in OKC today. Local stations are predicting breaking the 113 degree record. I only know that I will not be walking on my wood deck in bare feet . . . 169 degrees!
  23. GaryZ
    10-4 on the springs and 10awg fork oil. My '85 scared the water out of me doing the pogo bounce on a high speed ramp exiting onto I-35S. I installed Progressives and filled to 6" below the top with the forks collapsed. The difference was amazing. This past November I was dragging hard parts in Texas Hill Country, riding double! Normally I have 0 psi in the forks, however, I added 6 lbs to get a little more ground clearance
  24. GaryZ
    3:00pm: The hose is OK. Any way to verify the pressure sensor is bad versus the TCI? :( 5:20pm: I figured out how to test the Pressure Sensor and I have attached a .pdf showing my method. At this point it looks like the TCI. However, I will try cleaning the contacts/connectors. :(
  25. GaryZ
    It appears my boost/pressure sensor is not working. I sucked on it with the engine idling and no increase in RPM. Now I am trying to take it off to get a good look at the little devil . . . and verify the hose isn't stopped up.
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