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GaryZ

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Everything posted by GaryZ

  1. GaryZ
    I find it interesting that the rear cylinders enter the collector aimed at the front of the bike. This means the rear cylinder exhaust can impede the front cylinder exhaust flow, and the rear exhaust must do a 180 degree turn inside the collector to go out the mufflers. It looks like a muffler shop could build a replacement with better flow . . .
  2. GaryZ
    I thought about using the on-board compressor and a DPDT switch. However, I would have to break into the air lines and install pressure gauges to monitor pressure. I decided to install pressure gauges, air valves and use an external air compressor ($17 at Academy). The air compressor can be used to fill tires out in the boonies . . . Ask me how I know!
  3. GaryZ
    This past spring I stopped at the local 7-eleven for a soda and sitting out front was a new Sportster. I figured it belonged to one of the girls working inside. I walked in and commented about the nice "girl's" bike. The guy checking out at the counter turns and informs me that it is his . . . I gotta start thinking before speaking
  4. GaryZ
    For future reference; Go to your local auto parts store and buy universal car speedo cable replacement. It has the same ends as the Venture. Simply slide the finished end up into the cable housing from the wheel to get the correct length, cut the cable and attach the end.
  5. GaryZ
    As Dingy said, there are two senders in the top radiator hose. One is for the temperature gauge and the other turns on the cooling fan. It is possible the temperature gauge sender is unplugged. Ask me how I know about this . . .
  6. GaryZ
    Mine are barely above the tree . . . Maybe 1/16th inch. If anything this may only get me back to stock (with the 40 - 50 lbs of air in the rear shock). However, I will mention that raising the fork tubes in the trees is a common practice for folks needing to lower the ride height (with lowering links on the rear). Lowering only the front will usually quicken 'turn-in' for sportier riders . . .
  7. GaryZ
    OK ladies and germs, I may have figured out the front end problem; Bad head shake when I let go of the bars and unstable feeling when turning, especially if there are bumps. I have tightened the steering bearings 4 times and they seem to keep getting loose. I asked a friend for a second opinion as I showed him how I was tightening the bearings. He suggested that I needed to loosen the top tree pinch bolts (fork) to let the top nut pull the top tree down on top of the bearing nuts. This made perfect sense. The castle nuts were getting loose because there was a very small space between the bearing nuts and the top tree. I now have a little fork leg showing above the top tree and the front end seems to be working correctly. A few more miles and I will know if it's fixed. Thanks to everyone for the suggestions!
  8. GaryZ
    Kirb, I changed the steering head bearings about a month ago without any problems. You can read about it earlier in this thread . . .
  9. GaryZ
    Yes, I have a super-duper fork brace. The Beast just feels loose when turning or changing lanes. I can lean forward with my head almost over the steering head and it gets better. It was good before all of the front end work . . .
  10. GaryZ
    OK gents, another front end issue has developed. My issue is that the front is not as stable or 'planted' as before replacing the bearing and seals. The front end seems to 'hunt' on bumpy corners and does not generate the confidence that it had before. The forks seem to be operating normal. Troubleshooting includes loosening all forks parts and working the front end to align. I have Progressives, a mixture of 7 and 10 AWG fork oil, and no air in the forks. I have had to tighten the steering head 3 or 4 times since replacing the bearings. From what I have been told, this seems to be normal. I welcome any thoughts from the VR brain trust . . .
  11. GaryZ
    Did you 'maximize' any late model 'wings on this excursion? Inquiring minds want to know . . .
  12. GaryZ
    I have seen a write up on a Vmax that moves the wheel slightly with a spacer to mount a larger tire. But, I don't remember where I saw the write up!
  13. GaryZ
    That is a heck of a deal!
  14. GaryZ
  15. GaryZ
    Check this out . . . http://www.summitracing.com/parts/WLK-24239/ Stainless steel and 25" long Maybe my Beast needs these
  16. GaryZ
    There is a possibility that a 'pusher' fan mounted to the front of your radiator could reduce/disrupt normal air flow and cause the bike to run hotter at cruise . . . something to keep in mind
  17. GaryZ
    I have an '85 VR. It has the same large trunk as yours. The passenger backrest is very different on mine versus the newer ones. I am not sure if the mounting is the same. 1983-84 VR has a smaller trunk and smaller passenger backrest. I know this because I bought one on ebay and it is way smaller than mine. Anybody need a black '83-84 backrest in good condition?
  18. GaryZ
    Yes, yes, and no The MKll has two-piston calipers and smaller rotors on the front; 298mm x 8.5mm for the MKl vs 282mm x 7mm on the MKll
  19. GaryZ
    You think that race bike parts are needed on the street. The performance difference of two-piece vs one-piece is not going to be noticed on a street bike unless it does double duty as a weekend track bike. Lots of folks want the cool stuff, and that's OK. Just try to not rationalize why you think you need it . . . There are lots of reasons why a manufacturer changes to different parts and assemblies. You will find few parts used on a 1985 motorcycle still used today. And, the standard brakes on a Honda GL1800 Goldwing are: Front: Dual full-floating 296mm discs with CBS three-piston calipers Rear: Single ventilated 316mm disc with CBS three-piston caliper This brake set-up is a long way from the "radial-mounted, six piston calipers with 320mm rotors" found on premium sport bikes. Why? Because the fancy brakes are over-kill and would drive the MSRP up. Let's try and keep it real. If you want fancy brakes, do it. But, let's not confuse the new guys.
  20. GaryZ
    As I said, given the same swept area, there should be little difference. However, if the R1 pads are larger, the swept area is greater and there would be more powerful brake action. I think folks want 4 and 6 pot brakes because 200HP race bikes have them.
  21. GaryZ
    I'm not sure why there are folks that believe a 4-pot is better than a 2-pot for street bikes. If the swept area is the same, there should be little noticeable difference.
  22. GaryZ
    Goose is back!
  23. GaryZ
    I found oil on my kick stand after switching to synthetic oil. It was a very small leak around the wiring grommets. I changed to Rotella-T, as recommended on this forum, and have not seen any oil since.
  24. GaryZ
    OK, use the set-up as installed and re-set the software to TPS. Got it. Thanks!
  25. GaryZ
    I installed the map sensor per your instructions and put a photo up of the bracket that I built. I guess I'm being thick-headed here. If the IAP is the suspected problem, why am I having drop-outs?
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