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GaryZ

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Everything posted by GaryZ

  1. GaryZ
    There are lots of stations with 100% gas (all grades) in Oklahoma This thread has me thinking about how the "Beast" keeps having carb problems. . . The carbs have 78,000+ miles on them and 20,000 are mine. I have run it about half the time on E10. I did not know, or had not registered, that pre-1991 seals and gaskets were susceptible to E10. Thinking back, it seems to me each time I let the "Beast" sit for a couple of weeks there is another carb problem. Do we know that rebuild kits will have updated seals and gaskets? On a tangent: What do you experts say about E10 and rebuild kits for Q-jet carbs?
  2. GaryZ
    OK guys, I need directions on how to remove the pipe for o-ring #25. The clamp bolt is out and a little persuasion with a pry bar didn't move the pipe. Is there a trick?
  3. GaryZ
    Nice . . . Putting this in my file
  4. GaryZ
    All good suggestions . . . I have found the petcock fuel line weeping, the lines to the fuel filter, the float drains, and I also had a float bowl seal leaking on one carb.
  5. GaryZ
    The stock collector is stainless steel and shouldn't need paint.
  6. GaryZ
    No . . . Maybe My '85 was stable as an oil tanker until I replaced the steering head bearings and fork seals. Now it feels loose all the time and at moderate speeds it wants to wag its head. I am still trying to figure it out. I know that my steering head bearings keep getting loose and I guess I haven't tightened them correctly yet. However, even right after tightening the steering head when the beast is at its best, it is still not back to where it was . . . I will keep reading posts until a brain fart occurs
  7. GaryZ
    Very, very cool!
  8. GaryZ
    Others are apparently choosing to use vmax jetting (150s, 152s, etc). The vmax carbs are tuned for slightly larger valves, different air filter set-up, and v-boost. At this point I can only tell you that my set-up seems to be working great.
  9. GaryZ
    Kool project . . .
  10. GaryZ
    see attached file . . . Enjoy!
  11. GaryZ
    The carbs are the originals on a 1985 VR and I switched the needles to ones from a vmax.
  12. GaryZ
    Update; After reading an excellent article on CV carbs, I decided to remove the needle spacers to lean the mids. The difference is amazing! Crisp throttle when taking off from a stop, even when the engine is hot. It is crisp when lugging around corners in 2nd gear. The biggie is gas mileage. It has jumped from around 30mpg to over 37mpg! Here's my set-up at this time: 1987 engine (1300cc) 1985 carbs vmax needles low speed screw 2 turns out Dingy's universal TCI I'm lovin' it!
  13. GaryZ
    Ladies and gentlemen, I really think I have fixed my gas-smell problem this time. After enough dirt built up on the carb float bowls I could see where the #1 float was leaking a tiny bit. It looked like the drain plug. I pulled the carb rack out of the left side without removing any cables (had to remove four fairing mounting bolts to get an extra inch). The drain o-ring cost me $5. Put the carb rack on and left the lowers off for a test ride. It was still leaking. It has to be the float bowl o-ring. Removed the carb rack again and the rear carb bracket to get the float bowl off. Sure enough, the o-ring was bad. $12 and a 50 mile round trip to the only dealer in my area that had one in stock . . . No leaks. Rode around for a weekend, no gas smell. Woo-Hoo!!!
  14. GaryZ
    Did you get it working???
  15. GaryZ
    Dingy, Got the part . . . Thanks!
  16. GaryZ
    A compressed spring will release the stored energy and bounce. The shock is designed to reduce this bounce to keep the suspension movement controlled or "damped". There is fluid in a shock absorber that gets moved from one chamber to another. By limiting how much fluid gets moved, the shock resists and "damps" the spring bounce. A hole between the chambers allows the fluid transfer to happen quickly. A small hole makes the transfer harder and provides more "damping". The knob on the Gen 1 rear shock allows the rider to adjust this hole size. The only way to adjust damping on the front is to change to a different weight fork oil (lower number = less damping). I like to set my springs very soft and adjust the damping to taste. On my VR the front forks are filled with 7awg. On the rear shock I set the damping at "1" and took it for a ride. I then tried "2", "3" and so on. More damping makes the ride stiffer, even with the spring set soft . . . I was happy with the ride when set at "3".
  17. GaryZ
    Try using that new blinker fluid on the radiator valves . . . adds at least 10HP !!!
  18. GaryZ
    I agree. Be careful. I have a friend that has a brother-in-law and his girlfriend changed to synthetic blinker fluid on her ZX250. Now light leaks all over the ground from just in front of the center stand.
  19. GaryZ
    I also would like to know of a front brake master upgrade . . . So far as your Progressives, my only thought is that something is not assembled correctly. I have Progressives on three bikes and all have done exactly as advertised. There is better - softer small bump action that progressively gets stiffer. My VR has been put on a diet by removing a number of chrome farkles. The total weight of me and the VR is probably about the same as you and yours. I am running 7awg fork oil and the anti-dives are disconnected. The spacer that came with the springs was substituted for the stock metal sleeve and the forks work very well. Could the fork assembly be binding?
  20. GaryZ
  21. GaryZ
    I really like the way Dingy's and Venterous' bikes show off the lovely V-4. I rode about 200 miles on Sunday with the side covers and lowers removed (been working on a carb leak). At a paltry 85 degrees the heat was mildly uncomfortable. It could be very uncomfortable on a more typical Oklahoma 100 degree day. I will need to try riding without the sides on a hot day . . .
  22. GaryZ
    Yes, that is it! Is it the drain for the float bowl? I am hoping to get the Beast back together in time to make the Eureka Springs meet. Please send it and let me know how much for it and the postal
  23. GaryZ
    Gents, I broke a plastic part while removing my carb rack and it is not listed on the parts sites. The part is an elbow that connects a small rubber hose to the bottom of the carb. The hose is listed as call-out #47. The elbow is pictured without a call-out number. I don't know if this part can be removed! Any help will be appreciated . . .
  24. GaryZ
    I found small, clear sheets of Lexan at Home Depot and cut them to fit . . . I like to see the engine!
  25. GaryZ
    The Mark's Collector is lovely . . . and way too much money
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