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GaryZ

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Everything posted by GaryZ

  1. GaryZ
    Where are you MasterGuns...
  2. GaryZ
    Same for me. The oil warning seems to be more often when the engine is not fully warmed up . . .
  3. GaryZ
    The PO probably cut the brake line as a cheap and easy way to disable the linked brakes. The problem is that the right brake alone is not very efficient on this 750 lb motorcycle! This is one of the reasons why I connected my front brakes together (search de-linking). I would order two new custom front brake lines and stack them at the front master . . .
  4. GaryZ
    May be a vacuum leak . . . Test first by plugging all of the vacuum ports, one on the base of each carb, with a short piece of vacuum hose and a small bolt. If you have the same symptom, try shooting WD-40 around the carb bases.
  5. GaryZ
    This is how I put stopped oil from getting into the air box;
  6. GaryZ
    Die Winter . . . Die
  7. GaryZ
    In used a bearing set from . . . https://www.allballsracing.com/22-1004.html I lifted the front tire off the ground with my floor jack under the engine and placed jack stands on the front of the frame. Remove the handlebars and lay them on pads away from the steering head. Remove the front fender and front wheel. Hang the brake calipers from the frame. Remove the forks from the upper and lower trees. The air collars can be tricky. Remove the trees (the steering stem is attached to the lower tree. The top bearing is loose and pops right out. I used an air hammer to drive the lower bearing off the stem. See photo. I used a pipe handle to drive the top race out. See photo. The race hangs over a little when viewed from below. Sharpen a pipe to catch this edge and drive the race out. The bottom race I drove out by alternating from side-to-side with a long punch. There are "slots" in the frame. Assembly is pretty easy. Use the old bottom bearing on top of the new bearing to carefully drive it on. Very carefully drive the old bearing off again. Tighten the steering head to spec before tightening the pinch bolts that hold the forks. I had to re-tighten the steering head after a few miles. The fork pinch bolts must be loose to tighten the head. Ask me sometime how I know this . . .
  8. GaryZ
    I modified a Kawasaki coupler and mounted it on the lower tree. I re-used one of the original hoses from the master to the coupler, but, I will replace with a braided line. From the coupler are two matching braided hoses to the front calipers. In retrospect, I should have simply ran two hoses from the front master.
  9. GaryZ
    This is going to sound crazy . . . Try an air impact wrench, maybe an air ratchet. Let me explain; My friend has a 2005 Mustang GT with 100k miles on the original spark plugs. The manual says to change the plugs at 100k miles. These plugs have an extended tip and they apparently get carbon build-up after 50k miles. The carbon build-up will cause the plug to bind it can break, or, strip the threads in the aluminum head. Two Ford mechanics told us to use a 3/8" impact! At first I thought that was nuts. However, the more I thought about it, the more sense it made. The impact should knock the carbon off. I set the compressor for 60psi, used a deep socket with 10" extension, and we replaced all of her plugs in under 45 minutes. No problems.
  10. GaryZ
    I guess I can share a little here; I installed my Progressive Springs without removing the forks. With the bike on the center stand I placed a floor jack under the engine and slightly lifted the front wheel. Then I removed the fork caps and removed the original springs and other stuff (what a mess). I lowered the floor jack until the forks were fully collapsed. Next I clamped a vice grip on a ruler and used it to measure the fork oil in the tubes. Added oil until it was 5.5 inches from the top. Raised the front with the floor jack and dropped in the new springs. I used the spacer supplied with the Progressive springs and the stock washer between the spacer and the top of the springs. I replaced the caps and ride the heck out of my baby. I weigh 250lbs and will add 6 - 10lbs of air when the roads get twisty (adds ground clearance).
  11. GaryZ
    I replaced the thermostat cover and o-ring last year because the cover was warped and leaking. This year a leak started that I was sure was the fitting under the thermostat. It turned out to be the thermostat cover o-ring was simply running down and making it look like the lower fitting. I had apparently pinched the cover o-ring during assembly. The good news is that I found a very good supply of metric o-rings at Ace Hardware and a replacement cover o-ring was like $1.69 + tax.
  12. GaryZ
    Fixed it for you KIC . . .
  13. GaryZ
    I would add that old brake fluid will feel spongy. It is a very good idea to regularly replace your brake and clutch fluid. I use a plastic tube from the bleeder to a clear jar and simply pump the fresh fluid in and watch the old fluid come out. Keep filling the master and no air will get in the system.
  14. GaryZ
    I have Progressives and on two occasions I have added air to the front. Both times I needed the extra ground clearance to keep my mufflers off the pavement in turns
  15. GaryZ

    E15 Fuel

    GaryZ replied to Condor's topic in General Tech Talk

    I am pleased to say that all new 7-11 stations being built around Oklahoma City offer 87 octane E10, 87 octane 100%, 89 octane 100%, and 91 octane 100% gas as well as diesel. The cool thing is the 87/100% is only 3 cents more than the E10! Right now the 87/100% is selling for $3.02/gallon . . .
  16. GaryZ
    The picture is from my conversion. The cam on the left is from a 1987 VR 1300 and the cam on the right is the Vmax used from 1985 to 2003. The lift is actually the same. The duration is where the magic happens
  17. GaryZ
    Excellent idea!
  18. GaryZ
    OK, I replaced the small o-ring on the by-pass tube after I found a really good selection of o-rings at Ace Hardware. This small one was $1.09. The leak was better, not fixed. Removed the thermostat housing, because it looked like coolant was running down the front and onto the by-pass tube, and found the o-ring that I installed last spring had two flat spots (??!?). Back to Ace Hardware and found an exact replacement o-ring for $2.89. I added a thin layer of silicone gasket sealer on the flange that meets the engine case. I let the bike sit overnight with the thermostat housing installed and no coolant. This morning I finished assembling and filled with coolant. 75 miles later and still dry.
  19. GaryZ
    I found a replacement metric o-ring at Ace Hardware ($1.09 + tax). I also found a replacement o-ring for the thermostat housing ($2.89 + tax)
  20. GaryZ
    I think you may be right. I had replaced the thermostat housing and seal last spring and it appears to be leaking now. The question is . . . Why is it leaking again?
  21. GaryZ
    I can't get past the rear fender . . . Yuk
  22. GaryZ
    I looked closely at the parts breakdown and the #25 is the o-ring for the bypass valve. I need the o-ring for the bypass tube at the base of the thermostat. No listing. Picked up a very close match at Ace Hardware and installed it today. I removed the tube by rocking it with a pair of channel-locks while gently prying with a small pry bar. I refilled with coolant and ran it for a short time. No leak. Thought it was done . . . Nope, after a few hours I found a dime-sized drop on the floor. I plan on riding it to church tomorrow to see if heating up and cooling down might seal the o-ring. Wish me luck!
  23. GaryZ
    Frankly, I'm shocked they paid so much on a 1991 motorcycle. I couldn't get Farmer's to pay what my '95 pick-up was actually worth . . . Good for you!
  24. GaryZ
    I know someone has removed this pipe and can give me a little help . . .
  25. GaryZ
    The diaphragms move the slides to allow more air and fuel into the engine. This is a self-adjusting method for correcting for changing load conditions and altitude. If the slides do not open, the engine will not run above 4 - 5k rpm. You have likely found most of the problem. Your picture 4 & 5 show that the diaphragm has separated from the slide. My guess is someone incorrectly installed new diaphragms. Be sure to hold each of the diaphragms up to a light source and check for tears or holes. If a 4k rpm limit still occurs after the slides are working properly, it is likely there are blocked jets.
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