dingy

I think you have something else going on besides over torqued connectors. I have some extra (junk) parts lying around, so I took a few pictures of what I am seeing. 1st picture is looking across the slave cylinder & connecting points. It's not obvious in the picture, but the two connecting points protrude farther than the main body of the cylinder bore. 2nd picture is showing the connecting boss on the lower half of the block. There is a slightly raised face around the tapped hole for the lower connecting point, shown very center of picture. Half circle cut thru block above that and slightly right is the lower half of bore that clutch rod seal sets in. Around the seal bore, there is accumulated grime that build up over the years. This tells me that the face of the clutch slave was not pressed up tightly against block in this area. 3rd picture is where I had the slave positioned up against the block half. Last picture is of the upper connecting point on a different block. It appears to be machined flush with the block, hard to tell in picture though. What this suggests is that the two connecting points on the slave are designed to mate directly against the block with no air gap at connecting point interface. This then means that you could have torqued the connecting screws until it stripped the threads without cracking the connecting arms off, under normal circumstances. What may have allowed this to happen is that a pieces of debris was caught between the clutch slave body and the block, thus not allowing the slave to seat the way it was intended. With this possible offset, then the screw could snap the arm off. Just a few random thoughts. May have no basis in reality. Gary

Going to a smaller bore on master will increase pressure and reduce volume. Volume won't be an issue, as the Venture MKI & Vmax rear calipers pistons are very close. PM me an address. Gary

In 25 years that's 326 miles average per year. So its a fair guess that bike has sat unused for a long period of time. Gas will evapotate and residue can mess up carbs. Get in touch with MiCarl (user name) he can get you basic kits for carbs, has both jet block and enricher gaskets, fuel bowl molded gasket, 4 other O-rings and a float needle valve. Any VMax carb gasket kit (1985-2007) will work as well. Gary

Larry, You want a VMax master and a bracket to try. It's yours if you want it. 12.7mm bore on VMax one. Stock bike has 15.87mm bore Had it on Tweety and didn't like it much. Then I got a 'new old stock' master on ebay last year and have it on bike now, operating an 86 VMax rear caliper. Still not enough on rear end though. I will need to see what The Hybrid feels like with the RSV caliper on the rear. Gary

You probably didn't want to go there, just saying. If it is worth $12 to you then be happy wherever it goes. In my case it's worth a he11 of a lot more. Gary

The rear brake switch is not physically connected to master cylinder. It works off a spring connected to the pivot shaft that brake pedal is attached to. Spring is on inner side of frame. Look in beside right side of rear wheel looking forward. Gary

The 'tabs' on 2nd gen will be rather noticable on the front cylinders on a 1st gen. The chrome valve cover caps hide them on the 2nd gen. Gary

The heads are made from the same castings. Only a machining difference between them. Main thing is the cam chain tensioner & oil galley tapped hole is machined opposite. Front head, tensioner is on intake side. Rear head, tensioner is on exhaust side. If you look at a front head, on the boss opposite the cam tensioner hole there is a front designation. On the rear head, there is a rear designation. Unmachined casting has both Front & Rear cast into it. Machining for respective hole removes opposite head wording. Once machined, they are not interchangable. Gary

I also vote for cam cap rubber. Gary

I think if you remove the caliper and push the pistons back in to caliper body just a little on the side that the rotor cover thickness was added. Replace caliper. This might allow pads to center on the rotor and eliminate drag. Just a guess. Gary

1st picture is what it looks like from the rear of bike with rear end removed. 2nd is from left side looking forward. 3rd left looking rear. 2 mounting screws, from outside of left frame thru to R/R. Gary

Attached is a picture of the front of the block without the heads on. The inner big round holes are the cylinder bores, next around that is the water jacket cavity. Around each cylinder there are 4 head bolt holes. The only oil that is sealed by the head gasket is the central timing chain pocket. Very little pressure on that pocket. Re-torquing head bolts requires that the cam caps be removed. Doubt that was done from what you describe. I am guessing valve cover isn't sealing right. Oil doesn't always appear were it is leaking from. It moves in mysterious ways. Gary

Picture attached of Gunkylump at a m&e in Michigan 2010. Gary

Also, on Friday, there is a dinner at Quaker Steak & Lube. Link to calender event link below. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/calendar.php?do=getinfo&e=345&day=2013-6-7&c=1 Gary

$28.00 extra for insured shipment, 6-10 business day delivery. Your profile shows a 99 RSV, I will be attempting to test one of these on an RSV, I have some cables coming with RSV connectors in place. At this point though they are intended for 1st gen Ventures & VMax's. I also have a fuel injection unit coming with this order. I have a VMax guy that lives 15 miles from me that wanted one. He is already using one of the TCI's I am getting on a turbo VMax. He has a dyno. 200+ RWHP. He said he will be sharing what he learns from dyno testing. Last I heard he was over a hundred runs fine tuning TCI setups for his bike. Gary

Yamaha appears to have used as much of the csting parts as they could from earlier motors. The cap in question is another port into the main oil chamber. Same as the cap on the clutch cover. It may be that a concurrent model needed this fill port, but had a different clutch cover. Rear view of motor on bench. Hole in question does not have cover plug in picture. The 1st Gen motors did not have the fill port on the clutch cover. The one on the block was only fill port. Gary

MAP sensor is included. This MAP is a 5V based system which is in line with what TCI expects. 24" of new vacuum hose is included. You could use the existing vacuum sensor on bike. It would require reconfiguring adapter cable wiring & TCI would need reprogrammed. Gary

TCI's were ordered & payment sent on 4/1/13. They said 2 weeks delivery time frame. I can't pin down a date when they will ship. They have in past sent me the shipping & tracking info when they ship. Takes 3-4 days to get delivered to me. I have MAP sensors from manufacturer. I will send you a PM on ordering. Gary

I will have spares available. Gary

"It doesn't run well right now, the carbs need cleand" is a time tested pitch from a seller. Easiest thing to blame it on. Could be.. Old Gas Water in gas Clogged main fuel filter Clogged screen filters in each carb Plugged idle jet. Stripped/out of adjustment idle mixture screws Leaking air box seals Clogged or missing air filter Modified air box Low battery voltage, many causes for this Kill switch intermittent TCI connectors corroded TCI in early stage of death Ignition coils failing Ignition wires failing Spark Plugs That's a few random thoughts of other causes than "The Carbs" It depends on the condition of the VMax to warrant if $500 is fair. Decent looking VMax, get it. 85-89 VMax's are maybe $1500~$2500 range. It goes downhill from there. Low end could be a couple hundred. I have a bike scrapper near me that has old VMax that is fugly, been outside for years, wanted $1500 couple of years ago. He still has it. Beauty is in the eye of the beholder. Gary

Didn't see the misprint before. I was looking at the graph. Gary

That's what rode hard and put away wet to many times will do to you. We were talking about an old mare weren't we. Gary