dingy

A number of us have tried opening air box up and it does not make it better. It drastically kills any throttle response 2500 rpm & above. Loosen top of air box and put a very thin shim in so lid won't close all the way. This will allow more air to come in. Try reving motor or a very short ride. Picture is of correct air box orientation. Gary

See your other thread, just posted 2 fuses to check. Gary

That one is probably dead. The 2nd picture shows real bad diodes. If it is cranking, but no fire on any cylinder, then try jumpering around the ignition fuse (in emergency) and/or signal fuse. Both should be 15 amp fuses in main box. Gary

Mr. Speaker, The VMax's do not have a mono shock setup like Ventures. More conventional twin shocks. The rest of your musings are spot on though. See you in a week, old man !!! Have a speech for Friday night dinner. Gary

And this was your latest & best moderator choice ???? Tsk, tsk tsk, Gary

I will send you PM. Gary

Probably still replacing motor from time it hit a 110 in third. Plays hell on rods & valve train !!!! Gary

Bring that bad boy to MD, dinner & beer is one me at Quaker Steak if it'll do it again. Double dog dare ya.!! Bet you love me, I double space and break every thing up so Yammer can follow. !!!! Gary

Sending you a PM. Gary

I sent him an email for some more pictures. Thanks, Gary

I think you should have a one control wire solenoid. Should be a blue with a white tracer. If this is correct, you can verify the solenoid by putting bike in neutral, on center stand preferably. Turn the key to run, then with a jumper to GROUND, connect it to the terminal on the solenoid that the Blue/White wire connects to. If solenoid is functional, it should engage and crank motor. If it doesn't, probably bad. If it is good, then you have an issue elsewhere in the starter control circuit. Gary

If anybody needs 1st gen parts to get bike running, PM me. Most of stuff I have I will send out for cost of shipping to help somebody. No radio or CB stuff. Some body parts. A lot of misc. parts. When I say a lot several pickup trucks worth would be a conservative estimate. I hang on to stuff to try and help people. Ya, some of the hard to find stuff that is worth something, I try to get something out of. Gary

And a wise man once said... http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=40508 Will even work on a 2nd gen, believe it or not. Gary

Did not see that one. What color is 'correct' for a 1997. Colors for the Royal Stars are not listed in sites history. The leather would cover the scratch. Gary

Going to give it the DYI approach. Found this at Auto Zone for $16.99. Will try this after I get UPS to look at it. Intention all along was to repaint tank once I had it back from Ace High Leather. Tank had a dent near gas cap which is what drove decision to have leather work done. Nanci at Ace High Leather has been great to work with on the leather additions to the RSV Hybrid. She is a forum sponsor. http://www.acehighleathers.com Gary

It was insured when shipped back via UPS. But I have seen many posts online today where UPS denies a lot of claims due to packaging. Dents can possibly be pulled with a suction cup type device. Main reason I had leather put on tank was a large dent near gas cap. Gary

I have seen that going to synthetic on an older bike may affect the gasket seals, and be a possible cause of oil leaks. Been a while since I recall seeing this though. Other than that I would think synthetic would be fine. Tweety has had it for 2 years, but it was basically a new motor when I started using it. Eck posted a link to get $5 back on a gallon of Rotella T6 a week or two ago, I think it was good through the end of this May. Gary

Are you going to be at MD or not, last I heard it was not. Gary

I am in need of a fuel tank for a 96 to 01 Royal Star, color doesn't matter. I sent mine to Ace High Leather in California, and it was damaged during return shipping. Large dent on both sides of tank. Nothing on ebay at this time. Some pictures of leather work done to tank, side covers, grips & fender bibs Gary

Attached is a page from manual showing procedure. Lower two pictures. Readings are shown above meter. This is 86-93 manual, RSV will be similar. Gary

There is not an 'Access Plate'. The whole stator cover & middle drive cover need to come off, in order to see it from the inside. This will mean you need gaskets for these two covers. The stator must have a gasket in place or starter gear train will bind. Permatex only will not work. 1st picture shows inside stator cover, but without starter or gear train. 2nd shows gear train setting in stator cover, this is not how they get reassembled, they are in block, just took a picture this way. As mentioned before, go easy with the big tools or you can crack the case, and then you are fubared. Tapping it back in gentle may be a good option. A picture may be very helpful at this point. Some of us have removed starter many times. It's situations like this that you do not want to try drastic things and let some experienced people help. Call me if you want, I will be home most of the day. Number is in my profile. Gary

I used a piece of lexan to rework the radio opening. Gary

(2) 2x size Gary

Car horns work in a similar manner with horn button providing ground. At least on the pre computer-for-everything cars. In reality, it makes little, if any difference where the switch is in the circuit. The fuse will protect the circuit just the same. Gary

There is a PDF attached to thread linked below, it goes into some detail about using relays for controling circuits. Towards the end there is a series of example schematics and one of them details using a relay to control an add on horn. http://venturerider.org/wiring/Relays%20101.pdf Gary