dingy

Sent Pioneer an email to see if they had them in stock. I would rather not be tearing nose off Tweety out on the road, but I do appreciate your offer. I will use the set off the RSV if I can't find a pair of Yamaha seals. I'm going to swap out rear wheel with VMax wheel on RSV while I'm at it, as Tweety's is getting thin. Micarl didn't have a set in stock either. Snaggletooth is selling me a good set of upper & lower tubes to replace ones I have. These fork seals have been the main source of grief on Tweety. Rebuilt this thing completely and have occasionally abused the crap out of it and motor has held together great. A rather simple thing as the fork seals, on the other hand have been quite frustrating. Gary

Anyone have a set of new 1st gen fork seals that I could get? I will replace them. Yamaha p/n 1NL-23145-00-00 I am looking for the official Yamaha part. I had another right seal let go at Galena. I am replacing upper and lower tubes this time. I now think it is a flaw in seal seat on lower tube, rather than anything on the upper inner tube, which is baby butt smooth. I have replaced seals multiple times in two years now. Going to WNY rally next weekend and need a set quickly. I have another set of forks on RSV Hybrid I could use, but I don't know what shape seals are in on that pair. I will pay for priority shipping of course. I can find them online, but I don't know when they would arrive. Some vendors might have them in stock, some will order from a warehouse. Gary

I would be happy with Kentucky and will help there as well. At a minimum, I will do trailer raffle ticket sales again, as well as other things I can help with like paperwork and accounting duties. That's Cupcake and me volunteering so far. I would have thought the Department of the Navy would have cured our volunteering for this lifetime though. Gary

The 'Y' sections are probably single wall tubing. On the 1st gens, the front pipes to the collector are double wall tubing. Possibly the same on RSV's. Gary

I will help. New river bridge would be a great ride in WV. http://www.nps.gov/neri/planyourvisit/nrgbridge.htm Gary

Linked below are the redrawn schematics I did for the RSV. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=42357 Did you check the main fuse? I think it's on left side near battery box. Gary

Link below is a clip of video Ragtop69gs captured with a gopro camera. At 0:04 into video, deer can be seen on left side of road coming out of ditch. At 0:06 into video, Eusa1 (Mike Eykamp) is pointing towards deer. At 0:10 into video, deer crosses road directly in front of Lucy 2 (Cherie Eykamp). Long Tall is rider in front of Ragtop69gs. Video can be set to 'Full Screen' by clicking icon in lower right of video window. [ame] [/ame] Related thread is at: http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=80736 Gary

This was profit after deducting cost of trailer from ticket sales. Gary

What you seek is here grasshopper. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=80699 Gary

How about a east of the Mississippi rally and a west of Mississippi rally. Stagger the dates on rallies by a month so those that were able could attend both. Gary

It sort of looks like you have a couple of the diodes that are completely separated. If this is the case, odds are that the IC's are blown also. These are proprietary IC's as far as I know. Certainly worth a try to replace diodes, but don't get your hopes up. I think you have a paper weight there. Your stock options are limited to an 84~89 Venture or an 85~89 VMax TCI. Gary

Ya, but there's a lot of butt to be busted there, just saying. Is there a group discount available at Microtel in Springville for this? Gary

Ragtop said it was a gopro. I have a video oriented coworker that I will try to entice to edit video down to a manageable size Monday. Fairly sure I can get this done as we work together ao a lot of projects. It is 1.3 gigabyte as it is now. It is about 10 minutes in length. Incident occours at about a minute forty seconds into video. Gary

I have seen and am represented on this map. I don't think that it is utilized fully by members though. Judging by the shipping locations for the wrenches I sell, the two states with far and away the most sales are Texas, followed by California. On the pin map, California has only 3 pins. Texas is somewhat better represented, but I am fairly sure that there are a lot more than what is noted here. Canada seems very sparsely represented also. This is a start and a general sampling though. Judging by the map a central location would be in Upper Midwest through Pennsylvania, and down through Kentucky, Tennessee areas. Tennessee and Kentucky seem like a logical choice due to nice scenic areas and a lack of large yearly gatherings in those areas. Ohio area has Oberlin MD for the yearly pilgrimage to Don's so that would be a duplicate. My thoughts are an IR in Southeastern Atlantic states would be a duplication of the Vogel rally that is held at a very similar time frame. I would like to see something done in Kentucky/Tennessee areas for next rally. Granted, there is B2Dad/Moms weekend gathering in Tennessee, but that still wouldn't rule out an International Rally. There are a lot of big attractions and beautiful scenery in those areas. Michigan area has a lot to offer also. Pennsylvania/New York would be a repeat of last years venue. Trying to offer some constructive options here as I am aware that a decision will be made soon. Area selected will certainly need the input of members in nominated area to step up and say let's do it here. Pulling a rally off like this will be a task that needs commitment from a group of members that can work together and make timely decisions as to what resources are available and to get accommodations and schedules initiated. Gary

What are the past locations that the International has been held at. Then take into account the areas that have other major yearly rallies, such as the upcoming Vogel. Then factor in the weather as mentioned above, Florida is toasty, as are most southern states in July/August. It would be nice if Don could get a map showing the concentration of members in the country. Possibly one of the 'Pin' maps with city and state of active members for input. Gary

They have been doing this since at least 83, thirty years now. There is only so much real estate in the block area to transition from the hydraulic action to a mechanical movement. Doesn't seem like a bad design concept. Gary

I do not like the popular choice of HH pads. These are as mentioned above 'aggressive'. That term means that they will last a long time with little wear and dig into the rotors. This translates into accelerated rotor wear, that then leads to grooved or warped rotors. My preference is kevlar pads. I will admit, you may have to use a little bit more lever pull to get the same hard stopping power as the HH's. But without having tried it, I really believe you can lock the front wheel on either set of pads. If you can lock wheel, you have more than enough brakes. With the kevlars, you will need to change pads a little more frequently, but that's a lot cheaper than changing rotors at $200 apiece. Putting my flame suit on as you read this. Gary

See post # 11 in link below for some reference pictures as to internals where push rod goes through. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?threadid=80753 Gary

Little late, but here are a few pictures of what interior of case at clutch push rod looks like. Junk lower case, junk shaft & clutch basket. Don't use these pictures for assembly reference. Gary

You can pull the rod out. It must go back in same orientation as it came out. Ends are slightly different. There are no ball bearings in there. Probably an oilite type bushing. Gary

Easy once you know about the secret button. Gary

If you pull the push rod, it must go back in same way. The ends are different, slightly. Gary

The FJR final drives do not have the shock boss drilled out, VMax does have shock boss drilled. Make sure you have the 3" (approx.) long spacer in the FJR drive when mounted. It is a little different than a VMax rear. I struggled with this when I 1st put FJR rear on Tweety. Without the spacer, the final drive/wheel will bind up long before axle is fully torqued. The drive shaft splines are the same in an MKI thru an RSV including VMax's. The length of the drive shaft is different. If you put a VMax or FJR rear end on a 1st gen, an MKII drive shaft must be used. MKII is about an inch longer than an MKI shaft. I am not sure about RSV's but I believe stock RSV shaft works with either rear end. FJR drive shaft is to long to be used on any Venture. Something I haven't seen mentioned with the above discussion on counting pinion teeth VS. ring teeth is that the power is derived from the fact that with less teeth on the pinion gear (9 teeth), the motor has to rev about 9% higher to achieve the same speed as a 10 tooth pinion. This puts the motor farther up into the power band. It helps power, but usually will decrease MPG. This is not always the case, since some riders tend to run motor at to low an RPM for optimal efficiency. Gary

Brake Pad won a set of RSV twinkie end covers at Galena that would not fit his new Wing. He gave them to me and they look great on Tweety. Thank You !!! Gary

The 83-85 MKI's need to use the barnett style clutch. This has the 6 coil springs on it. You could put an MKII 86-93 style clutch in it, but you have to change the outer clutch cover due to the stack up height is taller on the MKII clutches. Skydoc 17 can get you set up with clutch fiber discs if this turns out to be the problem. Usually, the steel plates are OK. Another cause for clutch slipping is the wrong motor oil. The oil must not contain any friction reducers. This will make the clutch slip. Partshark.com has the clutch parts shown on the clutch tab. Gary