dingy

Very nice improvement. Gary

Correct thread for what original question was about. See post #1 & #2. Gary

This also is the input to the cruise control. If disconnected cruise will not work. Gary

That's some funny $hit, I don't care who you are. Gary

The green one is used on California sold bikes only. Gary

It has 5 wires on both sides of the connector. Clip from schematics attached. Gary

Not sure what you mean?? Gary

Birthdays are good. Happy one Bob. Gary

The pickup coil connector is on the left side of bike near the shock damper. It has 5 wires going into a 1" x 1" connector (roughly). 3 x 2 pin configuration. There should have been one of these in the Ignitech kit that you have. Gary

One thing that stands out is the tank cover graphics, that would put some people off. Not saying me, but some. Gary

Whatever angle you put gauges at that you can see, you will at some point have a reflection with sun to your back. Unstable issue can be, tires cupped or inflation wrong, steering head bearings loose or need replaced, swing arm bearings loose or need replaced, front wheel bearings need replaced, wrong torque on front or rear axle. Speedo cable probably needs lubed for howling. Odometer could be broke gear between odometer & speedo. I have a replacement instrument cluster if you find you need it. Gary

This was a sign near the campground that I found amusing. Gary

Look at the close up picture of the broken filter face. Just below the break and behind it, there is a black plug visible. This is part of the oil galley. Then below that, the lower surface of the oil pan is seen. On the right side of the opening there is a spring, this is part of the pressure relief for the oil pump. Only way this would be like it appears is the leading edge of the oil pan has been snapped off also. This motor case is junk. Pictures attached. Shown upside down, with oil pan surface up. Black plug cap seen in 1st picture and oil relief spring in second picture. Gary

You are not going to find a VMax motor for what ad says. He would be better off getting a 1300 Venture 1st gen motor, and swapping the heads, side covers etc over to the 1300 block. It is a job that requires lot's of patience, and a reasonable amount of mechanical apptitude. You can't just get a lower block half and put on to replace the damaged one. Main & tranny bearings are line bored as a matched pair. Good chance another won't line up with upper case, and much you can do to make sure they mate. If you do swap a short block into it, your looking at $150 in gaskets and related. Kerker alone if it is in good shape is probably worth $400. In general the VMax'x are a good straight line bike, they are not known as a canyon carver. Gary

You might want to google 'karen ann quinlan' prior to the Apple pie. Gary

Taking a gauge face off and repositioning a needle to zero at atmospheric pressure is absolutley not a calibration of 4 stand alone gauges. All this does is aligns the needles at zero. Just as with the carbtune, there will still be individual variances in each of the 4 gauges such as vacuum losses, friction of the needles in assembly and variances of the spring mechanism that control needle. To properly calibrate a set of gauges, a known vacuum must be applied to each gage one at a time. The needle can then be adjusted manually so that all gauges read the same, preferably in a range that gauges are to be used at. When vacuum is removed and gauge is reading atmospheric pressure, the needles may or may not be zeroed. It is totally irrevelant where needles fall at rest. Gary

About what. Gary

Try this as well. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=58880 Gary

I ain't on the list. Must not have talked to him much. Gary

Maybe if you were a little more specific about these 'Crazy Ideas' we could narrow down a to a specific group of Canadians. One persons treasure is another persons trash. Gary

Sometimes the starter button can cause similar problems. It's designed to turn off headlight when cranking. Bounce the switch and see if symptoms change. Gary

Thanks Earl, I didn't see your post until after I had called them. Gary

Yamaha of Warren had seals in stock and they are shipping today. Another crisis narrowly adverted. Gary

Sent Pioneer an email to see if they had them in stock. I would rather not be tearing nose off Tweety out on the road, but I do appreciate your offer. I will use the set off the RSV if I can't find a pair of Yamaha seals. I'm going to swap out rear wheel with VMax wheel on RSV while I'm at it, as Tweety's is getting thin. Micarl didn't have a set in stock either. Snaggletooth is selling me a good set of upper & lower tubes to replace ones I have. These fork seals have been the main source of grief on Tweety. Rebuilt this thing completely and have occasionally abused the crap out of it and motor has held together great. A rather simple thing as the fork seals, on the other hand have been quite frustrating. Gary

Anyone have a set of new 1st gen fork seals that I could get? I will replace them. Yamaha p/n 1NL-23145-00-00 I am looking for the official Yamaha part. I had another right seal let go at Galena. I am replacing upper and lower tubes this time. I now think it is a flaw in seal seat on lower tube, rather than anything on the upper inner tube, which is baby butt smooth. I have replaced seals multiple times in two years now. Going to WNY rally next weekend and need a set quickly. I have another set of forks on RSV Hybrid I could use, but I don't know what shape seals are in on that pair. I will pay for priority shipping of course. I can find them online, but I don't know when they would arrive. Some vendors might have them in stock, some will order from a warehouse. Gary