dingy

This is located very near the fan. The leads from the fan motor go to a sub harness that is about 8" long. This sub harness contains the choke for the fan. See attached PDF cut from RSV service manual. Items 8 & 9. Gary

Frank, Sorry, forgot to do this last night. Thickness of o-ring is 2mm. OD of inner tube is 40mm I can't get a good measurement on the OD of the o-ring, but it appears to be about 43.5mm. Gary

Following what I outlined in post #8, no ground is needed. Intent was to put 12v+ directly to starter lead, either at starter itself, or at solenoid on side that went to starter. Purpose was to bypass solenoid contacts, this should confirm if starter is good, it will not fully confirm it is bad however. To determine if it starter has failed, a second connection to a clean spot on starter housing, directly from negative battery terminal should be tried if positive lead does not crank motor. With the ground connection directly to starter, poor ground connections would be eliminated. There is conflicting information from poster in this thread. In 1st post he said bypassing solenoid did crank motor. Gary

Try bypassing the solenoid completely. It appears in 1st post you did this though. Put bike on center stand. Put transmission in Neutral. Attach a battery jumper cable to positive battery post. Attach other end of cable to either starter input lead on starter or lead on solenoid going to starter. - If starter is good, the motor should crank over (it probably will spark a little at point where last connection is made, this is normal) . Note, this will bypass all safety circuits to prevent motor from cranking in gear. If motor cranks, starter is probably not the problem. Gary

I'll measure one when I get home in a couple of hours. Gary

This is the homemade version of a VMax stage 7 vboost. V-boost normally comes with a 5th & 6th butterfly between the right pair & left pair of carbs. These two butterflies are controlled by a module that has an input from #2 coil, so it can determine RPM's. When motor reaches 5,750 RPM's, a servo motor located under coil rack, opens the butterflies. This then ties #1 & #2 carbs (right pair) together and #3 & #4 (left pair) carbs together. The result is to double the available air/fuel mixture to each carb. The carb pairs are on opposing intake/exhaust strokes, so only 1 cylinder is drawing air through each pair of carbs at any point in time. The stage 7 kit eliminates the servo motor & butterflies with a straight connection. The VMax intake boots are different than a Venture, VMax has an extra port, the same approximate size as the carb boot port in the casting. This port faces the adjacent intake port. The use of VMax intakes is complicated on a Venture as the VMax intakes are about 3/4" taller than Ventures. This raises carbs & air box up by 3/4". The #1 (left rear) carb then has an interference with the top frame rail when installing or removing carbs from motor. It is doable, but a PIA. Synching the carbs is much harder on a standard V-boost as there are now 2 more butterflies to contend with, neither of which can be easily reached, due to adjustment screw is at center line of motor, parallel mid line of bike front to rear. Synching a stage 7 equipped motor is generally regarded as next to impossible, due to carbs paired together "permanently". Gary

Link below is some pictures of a solenoid dissection I did. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=64567 Gary

Attached is a PDF from 83 service manual detailing setting middle drive lash. There are 6 different shims sizes listed. Gary

I won a pair of new RSTD muffler tips at International Rally. P/N STR1D6935001 1st $50 and shipping and they are yours. $50 will go to St. Judes fund. They are new, never used. Mounting screws included. 1 has very faint scuff mark that should polish out from shipping. Cheapest I saw them on line was $79.78 for pair, not including shipping. http://www.boats.net/parts/detail/yamaha/Y-STR-1D693-50-01.html Fits following bikes from best I can tell. 2005 ROYAL STAR TOUR DELUXE - XVZ13CTT EXHAUST 2005 ROYAL STAR TOUR DELUXE - XVZ13CTTC EXHAUST 2006 ROYAL STAR MIDNIGHT TOUR DELUXE - XVZ13CTMV EXHAUST 2006 ROYAL STAR MIDNIGHT TOUR DELUXE - XVZ13CTMVC EXHAUST 2006 ROYAL STAR TOUR DELUXE - XVZ13CTV EXHAUST 2006 ROYAL STAR TOUR DELUXE CA - XVZ13CTVC EXHAUST 2007 ROYAL STAR MIDNIGHT TOUR DELUXE - XVZ13CTMW EXHAUST 2007 ROYAL STAR MIDNIGHT TOUR DELUXE CA - XVZ13CTMWC EXHAUST 2007 ROYAL STAR TOUR DELUXE - XVZ13CTW EXHAUST 2007 ROYAL STAR TOUR DELUXE CA - XVZ13CTWC EXHAUST Gary

I don't see a problem here. Mission Accomplished !!! Gary

Below is a link to that Icelandic cuisine that Jonas shared with us at the WNY Rally for your dining enjoyment. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/H%C3%A1karl If you haven't had the chance to try this, you ain't missing a thing. It wasn't that bad tasting, but it is some of the nastiest $hit I have ever smelled that I was going to eat. Thanks for sharing Jonas !!! Gary

Did you check that the lash for the middle drive output shaft was correct? There are shims between case and middle drive output shaft to set this. This shim may have needed changed due to output shaft being in a different case. Just a guess, I don't know if this would cause random clunking though. Gary

What is a Gen 1.2 ??? Gary

Link to pictures below. https://www.dropbox.com/sh/6wi2eotnv59mdrf/CKnA3a1Qqd Some various pictures at WNY Rally. Thank You Pioneer Motor Sports. Great location. Thanks to all people that made it happen, and Big Tom also !!! Gary

My guess is it will affect idle and fuel mileage negativily. The shorter springs will allow the sliders to open sooner than desired. Gary (from WNY Rally !!!)

With all due respects Jack, this is a long shot. It would take two seal failures for this to happen. The push rod seal in the crankcase would have to fail, and the slave seal would need to fail. There is not a seal between the clutch slave body and the crankcase, by this I mean there is a slight air gap between these two assemblies. This gap may or may not be bridged by the clutch slave dust cover seal. Even if dust seal did bridge gap, the block does not have a machined surface at the point it would contact it, thus providing a seal that was good to a higher pressure than the block push rod seal. Few pictures attached. Not saying it is impossible, but in my opinion unlikely. Gary

1. Bleed clutch at slave, lower left behind stator cover there should be a 2" square black rubber cover over bleed port. Bleed a bunch of DOT 3 or 4 fluid through it, like 2 or 3 reservoirs worth. The clutch fluid is often neglected. 2. Possible could be bad seals in master or slave 3. There is a very tiny hole in bottom of master, nest to a larger hole. Tiny hole sometimes plugs up. Hole is about needle size. Gary

You need to post a new thread to get attention to your question. This thread was a niche comment that only a few will probably open. Put a descriptive title on it. Help with 1st gen clutch for example. Go to forums on main page upper left blue bar, then go to forum that is similar to question or watering hole for general stuff. At top left area, there is start a new thread button. To answer your question, it could be one of many things. 1. Bleed clutch at slave, lower left behind stator cover there should be a 2" square black rubber cover over bleed port. Bleed a bunch of DOT 3 or 4 fluid through it, like 2 or 3 reservoirs worth. The clutch fluid is often neglected. 2. Possible could be bad seals in master or slave 3. There is a very tiny hole in bottom of master, nest to a larger hole. Tiny hole sometimes plugs up. Hole is about needle size. Gary

Left side when sitting on bike. Port side. Gary

The cruise circuit is independent of the brake light circuit, other than a common 12v+ feed that is shared at the rear brake. There are two contact pairs in each of the three switches (front brake, rear brake & clutch) LED's are not involved in cruise circuit at all. Gary

Speed sensor is in the speedometer head, above where the cable enters housing. It is a reed swich, which is triggered by a magnet in the speedometer assembly. Something else to check is the free play in the 5th throttle cable, one going from bellows to the cable junction box. There is an adjuster in this cable. Left front outer and inner fairing need to be removed. There should be 1/16" free play in cable. Gary

.031"-.035" is factory spec. Gary

News Flash -- All bikes have the green plug, only used on California bikes. It does have power to it when key is on. Had to, you know what I mean. Gary

There is also a 13 pin plug along the upper left rear sub frame rail. You have to remove seat to get to it. This has the rear lighting & compressor wiring in it, then after it under trunk and plastic lid, there are 3 more connectors near the compressor. Gary

Left caliper works off the rear brake pedal, only right caliper works off front brake master. Oil in front forks should be even. This is checked with springs removed and forks fully collapsed. 5 1/2" is maximum with progressive springs, but I run at 7", this gives a softer ride. Gary