dingy

How bad you need one? I have a new stator cover gasket and an overnight shipping flat rate envelope. I could ship it tomorrow, and you would have it Thursday. $35.00, with paypal. Gary

Jonas, I talked to you about this at WNY rally. Said then electrical problems were tough to troubleshoot when you are standing by bike, let alone half a world away. I attached a reduced complexity version of the RSV wiring diagram. This is all circuits on the bike, but without the connectors shown. This makes layout of the circuits easier. Your problem is going to probably be in upper left quadrant of the attached PDF. 1st thing to try would be to pull every fuse except the main fuse. There are 10 of them in 2 locations. I think other fuse block is in right knee fairing. This will severely limit the extent of the normal paths for current flow. Probably, nothing will work on bike with all fuses pulled. Next, take a volt meter, negative lead to ground. Positive side, take and check BOTH sides of each fuse for a 12v reading. Do this with key ON. You should read 12v on one side of fuse holder, this is normal feed from battery, if on any fuse, you read 12v on both sides of fuse holder, this will be an indication that that circuit has an unintended cross connection to 12v source. If none of the fuses holders have an unexpected reading that will narrow down source of cross feed, (AKA short, I hate that term). Put all the fuses back in, proper amp reading in each. Sizing is on attached PDF. Now pull the main fuse at the starter solenoid, left side cover near battery. Does problem still exist. If problem is still there, then you almost have to have a 'short' between the main red wire that goes from the starter solenoid to the key and also to the Regulator/Rectifier TO the Brown wire with a Blue tracer that feeds most of the power to the bike. Finding this 'short' will be a challenge. What I have found while working on the RSV Hybrid is that the main red wire runs all over the bike. It goes from the starter solenoid at rear up front to key switch, over to condenser in knee fairing, over to R/R in front of motor. The Brown with blue tracer also runs around a lot. It goes from main switch to primary fuse block near starter solenoid, and also to the secondary fuse block right knee fairing. I hope I have given you good locations for components I have listed, I still don't have anything close to a complete RSV, nor will I ever. Complete wiring diagrams are at link below. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=42357 Gary

This is link to cleaning switch. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/sh...ad.php?t=43025 This will help us know what bike you have when you ask for help. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/sh...ad.php?t=58880 Gary

Herb, Did you get the part you were looking for? I found one in my excess inventory pile tonight. Gary

Very much the same can be said about BommerC3PO once he leaves the driveway !!! Gary

Started on this go-cart in 1960 at age 5. We had a 1/4 mile dirt track in back of property. My dad, older brother and myself each had a cart, much better than this basic one. I was youngest and much lighter than dad or brother. I could whip them on straights, but turns were tougher. Bent many axles on carts from aggressive cornering. My brother went to a dual motor setup to help accelerate and catch me on straights. Brother and myself ended up being stupid fearless on motorcycles, that came from old man some how. He was a dirt track racer, sponsored by Triumph in the 40's. Gary

Only bikes sold in California have the air vent system. There will be few of us that have had to deal with it. If you don't have service manual, attached are pages that deal with this system that shows how to check and troubleshoot it. Gary

2 pictures attached, you probably have the inside 'knuckle' on upside down, seen in 1st picture left side. It needs to point up, or shift pattern will be backwards. Saw your other post in 2nd gen forum, 2nd gens are 99-present. 1st gens are 83-93. MKI's are 1st gen 83-85. MKII's are 1st gen 86-93. Gary

11,000 more miles on a rear tire. Seriously?? That's about two rears for Tweety !! Gary

The gear indicator circuits run through the 14 pin plug that attaches directly to the CMU. No other connectors other than one at indicator plate in gear circuits. Doubtful it is that plug, it is in a very clean sheltered area. I think you are looking at soldering CMU. CMU has 2 circuit boards, see picture. There is another possible connection point between the circuit board that is the 2nd one to be removed and the LCD. About 3/16" wide, 1/4" tall and 1 1/2" long (all approximate). Connector is rubber like material, and it might be dirty and needs cleaned. Don't have a picture of that area of CMU. Was it failing and that was reason for replacing components? Gary

There are also two connectors in the circuit path for the indicator. One near the selector plate and other at CMU head. The indicator most likely runs through the CMU, due to the conversion of the ground on each gear selected into a digital output. It has to be partially working as the neutral indicator is from same ground source. Gary

Are you referring to the electrical air ride control panel? If you are, they will also interchange, same p/n in 86 as in 93. Gary

See if circuit diagrams on attached PDF help. Circuits are shown in 3 different configurations, see bold text at top of each one. Only circuits involved in each configuration are shown, this makes it easier to understand. Gary

Look at post #19 in thread link below. This has fixed Tweety's issue with tank cover coming loose. It has seen 120mph and stayed in place. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=51760 Gary

No. Stainless Steel might. I have seen these at local Do-It Best hardware. Not sure if they would have correct thickness. I think something is missing in assembly, doesn't seem like yoke would bend that much. Gary

Also, do not shake a can of clear coat much at all. I have been told this causes small air bubbles in the clear coat that will effect finish. Gary

http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=42433 Gary

The price on the progressives is almost worth getting a spare set for, not quite, but almost. $58.60 plus shipping. Already have a set for RSV Hybrid though. Gary

http://www.ebay.com/itm/89-YAMAHA-XVZ-1300-VENTURE-1300-REAR-BRAKE-MASTER-CYLINDER-COMPLETE-/350860852500?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item51b0efbd14&vxp=mtr The reservoir alone has often been around $40~$50 Gary

Do you need reservoir or the master cylinder? Side bolt comment leads me to think it is reservoir. Gary

They are yours. Thank you. Gary

Now I know where that leftover Icelandic fermented shark fin from the WNY rally went to !!!! Gary

TCI program is probably very close. But I don't know of any in use with a stage 7 kit. Your gas mileage will not be good with this setup. Do you have Venture or VMax heads? Picture of my motor shows VMax heads. If you don't have these heads or at a minimum VMax cams, you are wasting gas for little gain with this stage 7 setup. Gary

I don't think it will, my Yamaha cross reference shows it only fits 83-85 venture. Gary

Attached are a couple of pictures I have from ebay. One with yellow stick pointing to it is broke up. Other picture partially shows choke at bottom of fan. I think it will be along the left front frame rail, just behind radiator, but this is a guess, judging from pictures of my in progress RSV Hybrid wiring harness. Gary