dingy

Sensor can be pointed either way according to federal law. There are different cutoff values for which way sensor is oriented. It would depend on mfg of sensor as to correct orientation. This is detailed in section S7.9.4.1 (f) of attached federal law. Does the high/low beam switch between bulbs correctly in day? If it does, system is probably wired correctly but has an internal failure in modulator. Call manufacturer for their input. Gary

I at first misread title to thread, thought it was: Horny Eck meets motorcycle !!! Gary

Why ?? Gary

Do you have any dyno runs with map you uploaded? What bike are you using it in? I see rev limiter at 9,500 which says VMax heads at a minimum. Are you using stock vacuum sensor? I will try it at some point. Different, but worth a try. Thanks for sharing !!! Gary

There is a shoulder washer on them. 6 mm hex cap screw through them. Gary

You could always open up with 'I'm the proud owner of a 1999 Harley wanna a be'. You could go either way with that one !!! Hope mamma is doing better. Gary

Had a bid submitted of $325 for bike, have been outbid to $350. Unless there is some real interest in parts from this bike other than motor/carbs which I want, I am not going to pursue it. Reality is it will cost me $435 over and above the bid price for the bike with broker & auction house fees, not counting Ohio sales tax. Assuming it went for $500, I would have about a $1000 in it with sales tax and going to pick it up. I don't really need another bike that bad right now. I was only looking at motor for a spare. Gary

I am set up to bid on it through a broker in Cleveland. Interesting bidding process, once the online pre-bid time expires, it goes to a live auction. Gary

Working on registration through a broker. They have a lot of forms and rules. Gary

If someone was interested in the trailer from this bike, maybe we could go together on bidding on it. I am interested primarily in motor & suspension items on bike, but have no desire in keeping the trailer. I am about 60 miles from bikes location, so I could get bike if bidding were to be succesful. Gary

Per the schematics there would be power on it constantly. A condenser (capacitor) will not pass DC current through. So there should be no drain on the battery. Gary

To be fair to him, pull off a plug wire on your first ride. It will even the odds a little. A stage one ain't crap. Gary

1st wife, 30 years later. Gary

Venture caliper mount bracket was not even close fitting. I wanted to use MKII quad piston caliper. Wheel would not fit in swing arm with MKII offset rear rotor. Picture attached shown clearance between swing arm and an MKII front rotor that I used on rear. Last 2 pictures show difference in rotor boss offset between the 2 wheels. Gary

1985-1995 should fit OK. Axle is the change that made 96 & later unusable on a 1st gen. Primary issue I had was getting the brake caliper/mount arm fitment worked out. I ended up using a VMax caliper and had to machine the caliper mount to narrow up axle boss. Also had to rework VMax caliper mount torque arm so that the caliper is now mounted in an under slung position. Saddlebag would not attach with caliper mounted in conventional position. Also need to weld a tab onto Venture swing arm to attach torque arm to. Under slung caliper mount does not have any ground clearance issues and is hardly seen with the saddle bags on. Downside is bleeding caliper requires it be removed from mount bracket and set on top side of caliper in order to orient bleeder correctly. A VMax swing arm will not work due to the VMax uses conventional twin shocks rather than the Mono shock on Ventures. Tire shown in pictures is a 150 width 15 inch. Front wheel is also a VMax, 2011 R1 6 piston calipers with FJR 298mm floating rotors. VMax rim does offset rear wheel about 3/4" to right, but bike still tracks straight with hands off bars. Main benefit I was after is VMax rim is 15" and Venture is 16". This is equivalent to about 6% higher gear ratio, thus improving the bikes low end take off speed. Doesn't help gas mileage at all, but wasn't a concern with this bike. I get about 32 mpg's when I ride it decent. Much abuse of it and it will drop into mid twenties. Gary

Did you use a fully threaded bolt? The concern with this is that instead of the hardened shoulder of bolt going through ears of side stand & tab on frame, there would only be the threaded portion of the bolt passing through these members. What this means is that instead of having 100% contact with the unthreaded shoulder of bolt, there would be reduced contact area to about 10% less bearing surface with only the crests of the threaded portion of bolt contacting side stand and frame tab. This reduction in contact area will lead to greatly increased wear on the contact surfaces between threaded bolt and frame tab. I used a grade 10.9, 12 mm x 1.75 mm x 60 mm long partially threaded hex head bolt, a grade 10.9 hex head nut and a standard grade jam nut (hardware didn't have grade 10.9 jam nuts). Grade 10.9 metric is very close to an imperial grade 8. The hardware store had 12 mm x 1.50 mm bolts, but the unthreaded portion was a smaller diameter than the 1.75 mm. I would have rather had the finer threads. I used the 60 mm length because the unthreaded portion of this bolt was just the length that was required to pass through the front and back wings of the side stand. I did not want threads in that area, due to the threads would quickly wear down in diameter and increase play in side stand. The shoulder on the hex bolt measured 11.50 mm, just slightly smaller than the existing shoulder bolt by about .005". Gary

Just to clarify, current check is not done across battery terminals. You need to unhook either the positive cable or negative cable and put current meter in series with the removed lead and the open battery terminal. A low end meter will probably not have ability to read up to 30 amps current draw on battery with everything powered up however. Current draw would be checked at idle or with motor not running. If motor is ran up to higher RPM's during current check, you will get an erroneous reading due to stator supplying most, if not extra current to power electrical system. You would however check voltage from the positive to negative battery terminals. Gary

Reason I asked is my RSV Hybrid had homemade links on it that measured 6 5/8" c/c. The fender seemed like it was riding way to high. I got a set of 7 1/2" c/c links and the rear end looks much better now. It dropped it about 2 1/2" measured from inner rear fender frame rails to top of tire. I still have 5" clearance between a fairly bald tire that came off Tweety and inside of inner frame. Service manual shows 3.7" of rear wheel travel on an RSV. Pictures attached. Gary

What do the stock links measure hole to hole that you took off? Gary

OK, it is painfully obvious we are the red head step child now. The HD site even has newer forum software than the loyal Venturerider.Org site does. We are on a very slippery slope now. Gary

It will be 'noisy' when first started. I doubt there would be much noise from the cam/shim buckets even if they were out somewhat. Mostly it seems to be some cam chain noise, which tapers off as motor warms up. I don't notice any water pump noise. Being a water cooled motor, tolerances are tighter in most places as motor doesn't get as hot as an air cooled one. Gary

Attached are some pictures of a screw that I put on clutch side to hold switch in place. It has held for several years. Probably used a 4mm x 0.70 screw. I used a very small amount of blue loctite to secure it. Don't use a lot, as loctite shouldn't come in contact with the plastic switch housing. Gary

They are the same, I have one from an 2001 RSV and it is the same. Also, VMax is same block as a Venture, so it will fit if it fits VMax'x. Gary

The Gynecologist and Urologist got together and said we're screwed! Gary

Nobody likes a bragger. Gary