dingy

Sounds like you prefer the delinked ones or you wouldn't be moving them to the 88. I was just picking on the old guy from WV. If you are happy with linked brakes thats fine. Like Squidly pointed out, I don't need 30 year old engineering determining my front/rear brake bias. It will require different forces under different conditions. One of the main problems I had with linked system is that no matter what, you are always applying front brakes, gravel and oil slicked intersections don't like that much. Gary

After seeing a TPS mount that a VMax owner did on his bike, I have made a similar one for the RSV Hybrid. Readers digest version is I drilled and tapped a 5mm hole in the end of the #3 carb throttle plate rod on back side. Installed a stud in it and put a ground down coupling nut on the stud to turn TPS. Made a bracket out of aluminum that mounts to the rack side plate to hold TPS. TPS sensor is one I bought from Ignitech. It is not spring loaded, so there will be no change in throttle feel. Will be spring sometime before I get to try it. Gary

My 2nd gen is gonna kick all you whippersnappers buttocks. And it is coming along, it WILL make MD in Oberlin. And Tweety is getting a new oil check sight glass that works when it is on the side stand. Figure that one out. Gary

Linked brakes are fantastic for the lesser experienced big bike riders. Just sayin', if the shoe fits, wear it. Gary

Last 4 digits of serial # after 1413 had transmission problem fixed at factory. Gary

What a buddy Eck, see attached. Gary

I also got a coupon for a 500lbs. capacity deluxe steel cargo carrier. H/F pn 66983. Coupon is for $49.99 regular $99.99, on sale for $69.99 Gary

Send me an email & I can send you one good for 20% off in November. I printed it, and was able to use it Saturday. It is good all month, on use per customer per day. Gary

I guess I was wrong assuming your goal was to save inner tube and replace grips. Hate it when that happens. Gary

I don't notice any more vibration with them on Tweety. They seemed to tighten frame/motor up which seemed to improve handling. I have also removed the frame brace that side covers attached to. The solid mounts, in my opinion, compensated for the removal of these braces. They were removed when I did bikini cut on side covers. The bikini cut exposes the motor which changes look of bike. Gary

I found a junk throttle grip in my spare parts that was glued like yours probably is. I took a razor knife and split outer and inner shell to get tube out. Try this and if you can't get it I will send you this tube. Gary

The fan thermo unit as well as the radiator joint housing changed in 1986, the fan thermo unit is not interchangeable. The threads are much larger for the fan thermo unit on the 1986-1993 bikes. Gary

Package on the way to you. Gary

I have a few spares if you want one. Gary

I looked at these a couple of years ago for a product I was designing at work. They are a nice alternative, but in high volume manufacturing, Loctite was a more viable option. I have attached a picture of the from card that comes with the washers. These do have an excellent resistance to backing out. The rep gave me a demo bottle opener. It has a stud welded on one end, a nord-lock washer and a wing nut. When the wing nut is snugged up, it takes probably 3 times the force to break it loose. And it is a multi-use lock that does not wear much at all with each tightening. Got a small supply in metric sizes, but I have not used any on the bike, just never think about them. Gary

It is not a gasket. It is a rubber spacer, to keep the air cross overs properly spaced below the upper triple tree. Gary

Here is a picture of one I got from AutoZone. Gary

You can get something very similar at Auto Zone. Made by Dorman. On the vacuum fitting rack. Gary.

I had new cap screws in them, don't like the allen heads that came from factory on the slave. I have seen quite a few people that had problems getting allen heads out. They were the same bolts that had came out of it this summer. Might have been some loctite residue in holes. One thing I did notice was that the screws were recessed in a counter bored hole on both. This could have given me a false feel for them being lined up. I don't know where I messed up on this. I must have got them both cross threaded, not something I do though. I have run a tap in all the threaded holes on the block after I powder coated them, to help clear any sand out from blasting them. Just lucky in this case. Could have been much more expensive. Gary

He'll be there before long, always trying to keep up with the Nelson's. Before long there will probably be a rowboat behind the slightly off kilter new garage. He is probably getting dish network in the new garage as you read this, so he can watch the West Virginia Mountineer's Saturday exploits.. Just kiddin' old man !!! Gary

Had a rather serious fubar on the motor on RSV/Hybrib. Was replacing clutch slave and stripped the threads on both the tapped holes. I had the slave on this summer, but removed it to help someone out, then got it back. When replacing it Sunday, both bolts stripped when torque was applied to manual spec. These holes are in one of the most hateful places on the block to reach. My day job has it benefits, as there is a model shop machine group that has a lot of specialty tools and equipment. They had a set of tap extension adapters that allowed a standard helicoil tap to reach back in between the stator cover and the middle gear casting on the block. A 6mm helicoil fortunately needs a 1/4" tap drill that I happened to have, 12" long. I made a helicoil insert tool out of a piece of 3/16" rod with a notch on one end. After installing the two helioils, both screws torqued to spec. Another catastrophe narrowly avoided. Could have been a costly setback with time I have put into this motor. Usual pictures attached. Only top hole has helicoil installed in pictures. Gary

In your case, you well get more crap than someone with a Hardley !!! I doubt the RSV will do 110, let alone in 3rd gear. Gary

When is the Oberlin MD weekend. I didn't see anything on calender in May, June or July. Or is it a year round weekend event now that the RSV has been shuffled off to WV. & a new sheriff is in barn ??? Gary

There is adequate clearance, at least 1/2" above them. At first all I could find were 4" tall pods, but came across these 3" ones which do clear the tank. Now if I can get throttle cables to in there, they will be close. Gary

Have made some progress on RSV/Hybrid this month. I have carbs rebuilt to VMax specs finally. Have a set of short pod air cleaners for it the will fit under fuel tank. RSV or RSTD air boxs would not fit the 1st gen carbs due to different spacing on the carb throats. Use of the pods required a set of air correctors to be installed above the air jet in the venturi. I am fairly sure I will be tweaking the main jets and needle jets to get this running right. I have #160 mains & stock VMax needles in it to start with. Have done some aggressive modification to the front motor mount to be able to get a stock set of Venture 1st gen down tubes in to frame. I have taken the stock RSV front motor mount bracket and removed the cross connection tubes. This left only the main mount plates. I removed the welded on nuts from these and mounted plates outboard of the frame rails. This allowed the front exhaust down tubes room to be installed. By mounting plates outside of frame rails though, the solid motor mounts are not captured between mount plate. The upper mount will use a long bolt and spacer tube that is used on 1st gens. I will need to fab a similar spacer for the lower pair of mounts. After I get exhaust finalized, I will fab another cross brace to tie the to main plates together that will bolt to each plate. This brace will somewhat compensate for the cross tubes I needed to remove. Surprisingly, the radiator will clear the exhaust pipes with only a minor change to the fan mounting bracket. Rear down tubes do clear frame, but just barely. I have a VMax Kerker header that I was hoping I could put on it, but it isn't close to clearing the shock mount on the rear end. I will use the Marks header I have instead. I have a pair of MAC mufflers that will be used on bike. Little longer than I had hoped for, but length is correctable via a band saw. Kerker may fit on Tweety. Have a set of progressive springs for 1st gen front end. Also have a plan to make a set of adjustable block off plates that will be used in place of anti dive valves. Use of a metering valve in block off plates may soften ride somewhat. Motor has stock 1st gen covers that I had sand blasted on it now that were going to be used prior to being able to get 2nd gen covers to work. I am using these so I don't mess up the chrome set while I am working on it. Been working on this for a year now, but very little this summer, rather ride Tweety than work on this. Maybe ready before Oberlin MD in June. Harley's will be in season then, no bag limit. Gary