dingy

Got the front tank mounts fabricated today. Tank had to be moved rearward about an 1 1/4" to match up with seat. Moving it back also allowed for raising it up a little to clear carb covers by about a 1/4". Leather cover that was made by Ace High Leather is setting on tank. Making some progress with Hybrid, almost everything needs some sort of tweaking to get it to fit right. Tomorrow I will work on rear tank mount. Need to weld on relocated thermostat housing tabs and rework the rear head coolant pipe out of thermostat housing to clear tank. Got an early Christmas present, a small metal lathe from Harbor Freight. I had a 20% coupon that was going to expire and it was on sale, so I got almost $200 off price, about $415. Won't be something I use a lot, but it has come in handy for making a spacer to hold tank mounts at needed spacing and I have made a pair of front wheel spacers that are needed to center VMax rim in the 1st gen forks. Not a real high precision tool, but is adequate for what I need at this time. Gary

The rubber hose you are missing is to direct the fuel from the bowl out to the front side of the cards when you drain them. Also useful if you want to check the float levels. I elected to not put them on the carbs I rebuilt for the Hybrid bike I am working on. I know the floats are correct. Have never had the need to drain the carbs on Tweety (83, by title). Choice was an appearance issue for me, don't like the looks of them sticking out. I may use the holes they are supposed to stick through to mount a 'V' shaped plate beneath the carbs to cover up that area. The black fuse holder with two fuses in it is for the cruise control. I didn't think any of the 'true' 83's had cruise. There are some bikes titled 83's that are more of an 84 style though. Serial numbers on these notch bikes start with JYA47. Another way of telling is if the choke lever is below the left hand switch holder, it is an 83, if it is around the left hand grip it is an 84 style. Gary

Sent you a PM. Gary

How long is it approx.? How many pins in end? I probably have an extra. Just need to know which one you need. Gary

I was thinking about trying that on the Hybrid, gave up on that plan. Here is a link to what I was trying. Main problem is the 1st gen shock is longer than the 2nd gen shock. Add to that, the 2nd gen has a yoke mount on bottom that wraps around the relay arm lower shock mount, while the 1st gen has the opposite type mount on the bottom. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=74527 1st picture is a 1st gen, 2nd is a 2nd gen. Not saying it can't be done, but it didn't seem like a good thing to be McGyvering. There is the possibility that the lower eye mount on the 1st gen shock could be machined off, then the yoke bracket from the lower 2nd gen attached. But then there would still be the length issue. Gary

This is a junk tank. I have another tank I bought a few months back. UPS damaged this tank worse than it was when I got it shipped back from Ace High Leathers. It was insured, so I ended up getting a replacement. All the side covers, valve and carb covers are just temporary ones I had. I don't want to mangle the good set while I am working on it. 1700 motor would be a major undertaking, I looked into that when I was first starting this project last year. The motor mount points are way different. Gary

Few pictures of scooter. Working on frame components today. Removed some of the fairing and AIS brackets that aren't needed. Also three mounting brackets on underside of frame, behind motor that would interfere with the exhausts. Going to move the tank rearward about an inch, so it matches up to the seat better. This will also help level tank and clear carb diaphragm covers. What is the bracket for in the last picture, the one behind the radiator filler neck?? Gary

Just a question about your picture you posted of your trike with the license plate covered. Not trying to be mean, just a question. Why cover the plate? I realize it could be tracked back to you and your address probably discovered. You ride the bike out in public where it is visible to everyone. Gary

Sorry Heather. Gary

The hex plug on the bottom of water pump is coolant drain. Probably needs washer replaced. If it is plug going into block, it is an oil galley shutoff. This one has an allen head socket. Gary

Downloaded the dropbox link you sent. That is what I need. Thanks, Gary

I need a wiring diagram for a 1997 Royal Star. Getting to the point of working on wiring harness for the RSV/Venture/VMax Hybrid. I am using the instrument cluster from a 1997 Royal Star and wiring diagram would be helpful to see how to interface cluster with rest of wiring. Pictures attached of cluster. Gary

Sent you a PM. I have a #2 body & used idle screw. Also will Berryman clean & ultrasonic it. Gary

Do you just need the carb body, or are you looking for a full, good condition complete carb? Gary

VMax exhausts will not fit a Venture. Venture mono shock mounting interferes with the VMax rear pipes. VMax's have conventional dual shocks. There is a chance that a Kerker header might fit. I have one here I was going to try to put on RSV, but it won't fit it. Pod filters will work, they are usually used with a stage 7 kit for carbs. This mainly is either straight tubes in place of the VBoost manifold or running VBoost open all the time. You should get on the VMaxforum.net and look around. Not a PG rated site, but in general, a fairly well behaved group. If you want to get power out of the V4, that is where I have found the knowledge at. Gary

You will either need to change the TCI to a 84~89 model, or an Ignitech if you use the 1300 carbs. 83 TCI will start bike, but performance will be hindered. The reason being is the 83 models used a vacuum source from a port on the carbs above the throttle plates. The 83 was the only year to have this port, other than California sold bikes which use a similar (different size) port for smog canister. The 84-93 bikes switched to using the carb sync ports on #2 intake manifold. What this difference in vacuum source does is reverse the curve of the vacuum pressure. An 83 has near atmospheric pressure on the port when the motor is idling, then the vacuum reading rises as the throttles are open. The 84~93 bikes are the opposite, they have high vacuum on the port at idle, then this vacuum reading drops as throttles are opened. Ported & unported vacuum are the semi technical terms. This difference was compensated for by a change in the 84 and later TCI's by inverting the way the circuitry interpreted the signal from the boost sensor, which is a pressure gauge that reads the difference in vacuum. I don't think using 1300 carbs with intake vacuum on an 83 TCI will retard the timing, but it certainly won't advance it as it would if the vacuum source was to be above the throttle plates. The 84-93 carbs still have the casting boss where the port was located. It could be drilled ans a port installed there. As a side note, an 83 set of carbs can be easily used with an 84~89 TCI, simply by plugging the port on the #2 carb above the throttle plate and switching the vacuum line to the #2 intake sync port. 90~93 TCI's are very different and require rotor and pickup coils to be changed in order to work on an 83-89 motor. Also a TCI from an 85~89 VMax will work on an 83~89 Venture, as long as vacuum is on #2 sync port. VMax's have a more aggresive advance curve, but will directly swap as far as electrical connectors. Gary

Here is a link to first day for 2014 IR calender link. Easier way to get there than going to calender, etc. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/calendar.php?do=getinfo&e=378&day=2014-7-27&c=1 Gary

We have a room at the state park lodge. Saturday through Wednesday nights. Gary

I am going to get TCI's ordered about 1st of December. PM me if interested. Also, I missed $7.00 extra if using PayPal to cover my fees. I don't want to get personal marked payments as PayPal will get irritated with many of those coming in. I will also take checks or Money Orders. Gary

That would explain the high amperage on the fuse. Surprised that the switch is getting that hot though. I suggest you split the loads on this fuse into 3 circuits. Keep headlights & driving lights on separate fuses, so if you lose one circuit, you still have some lighting. Same with rear end lighting. Gary

Digikey has a few available. Verify these are correct fuse types you want. http://www.digikey.com/product-search/en/circuit-protection/fuseholders/655422?k=fuse%20block%20atc Gary

The original 1st gen rotor is used by Dano. A 2nd gen rotor won't work on a 1st gen, due to lobe difference and stator differences. The idler gear from a 2nd gen will fit on a 1st gen crank correctly, that is what I have on Hybrid. I am using a 2nd gen rotor though, but with an Ignitech TCI, which can be programed for the single pickup coil with the different lobe pattern. 2nd gen lobe pattern is also different from the 90-93 MKII 1st gen rotor. I also am using a 2nd gen stator and side cover. The 2nd gen stator will not fit into a 1st gen rotor, and a 1st gen side cover will not clear the 2nd gen rotor. I am fairly sure Dano has fabricated a centering jig for drilling the 6 new starter clutch holes. If the starter clutch is not perfectly concentric with the rotor center hole, it will not work well, if at all. Gary

Looks like WVU received another spanking today !! Kansas 31 - WVU 19 On the bright side, Ohio State 60 - Illinois 35 Sorry Dan. Gary

A fuse will get hot when it has a current flow near its rating. The way a fuse opens is that current flow through the fusible link heats the link to its melting temperature, the link then transitions from a solid matter to a liquid state. The link in a low amperage fuse like the kind used in motorcycles is a much smaller cross section than the wires feeding it, this smaller cross section area is a focal point for the electrical current to cause heat generation. If the fuse is operating just a few percentage points below its current threshold it will get hot. This temperature will be hundreds degrees, but it is not quite at the melting point of the fuse link. Another characteristic of fuses is that they will not open the instant a slight over current is applied. A standard fuse may require twice its rated current to open in one second, a fast-blow fuse may require twice its rated current to blow in 0.1 seconds, and a slow-blow fuse may require twice its rated current for tens of seconds to blow. I would suspect the 15 amp circuit you are having a hot fuse in is drawing very near its capacity. If you have a meter that is capable of measuring 20 amps, you can pull the fuse from its holder and put meter probes in place of fuse contacts to see what circuit amperage is. Then, you can disconnect downstream loads on the circuit to find one that is drawing excessive current. Driving/Fog and head lights are high current loads. Also any type of heated wearing gear would be a source of high current. If you eliminate all the known loads on a circuit and still see current draw, there is a possibility of worn insulation on a wire causing an unintended path around the load, commonly called a "short". There are many other styles of fuses that work on the principal of melting a pellet of plastic material, which triggers a spring loaded mechanism to open the circuit. The company I work for makes over a million of these types of fuses a day. They are found in most household appliances like coffee pots, blenders, mixers etc. These fuses work at the melting point of plastic and other materials to liquify the pellet. The melting point of these materails can be much lower than a metal type glass tube or ATC type fuse. Gary

A 1st gen ring gear will not fit in a 2nd gen rotor with starter clutch. I have both here at house. So this being a 2nd gen starter clutch, it will not be a bolt in replacement only for a 1st gen. Gary