dingy

Boat Anchor !!! That's what Don bought with money he got from Yammer. Gary

Right now, you are the slowest 2nd gen there is, since you can't even get yours started. Back to your corner!! Gary

The plastic cover is not very expensive. $12.95. http://www.boats.net/parts/search/Yamaha/Motorcycle/1989/VENTURE%20ROYALE%20-%20XVZ1300DW/WATER%20PUMP/parts.html It's on the water pump tab in the parts fiche. Considering that it's somewhat difficult to get to, I would rather put a new one on than chance getting a used one. Gary

The o-ring that goes into the thermostat housing is leaking, assuming bike was on side stand. The fluid path is downhill to drain valve. There is fluid in 2nd pic on t-stat housing. Could also be seal between plastic t-stat top & aluminum housing. These have been known to warp. If you have to remove thermostat housing, the bolt heads are easy to strip. Gary

Does the engine warning light system work with the Dyna upgrade? Gary

It is an anti dive valve. When brakes are applied it stiffens front forks up to slow suspension from collapsing. They need bled as well. AD valve sets on leading edge of forks from 83-87. 86-93 have electrice AD valves. Gary.

PM sent. Thanks, Gary

Thank You All !! Gary

Slow Motion !!! We have a winner already. Gary

There are hundreds of these in at a soccer field I went by today at lunch. They are somewhat rare, conditions need to be in a tight range of several parameters for them to form. There are trails behind them where they rolled across ground. It was about 34 deg. F. over the weekend at times with very strong winds which caused the snow to roll and form large rolls of snow. Some are near at least 18" tall. Going to be -15 deg F tonight. Snow balls are formed naturally as chunks of snow are blown along the ground by wind, picking up material along the way, in much the same way that the large snowballs used in snowmen are made, according to information on the Internet. The following conditions are needed for snow rollers to form: The ground must be covered by a layer of ice to which snow will not stick; the layer of ice must be covered by wet, loose snow with a temperature near the melting point of ice; the wind must be strong enough to move the snow rollers, but not strong enough to blow them apart; and alternatively, gravity can move the snow rollers as when a snowball, such as those that will fall from a tree or cliff, lands on steep hill and begins to roll down the hill. Gary http://i1007.photobucket.com/albums/af193/gdingy101/snowrollers_zps53c8e7f1.jpg http://i1007.photobucket.com/albums/af193/gdingy101/snowrollers2_zpsdd52609e.jpg

They work fine for me. They are DVD's, not CD's. Gary

I exchanges emails today with Damon Ferraiuolo, the person that produced the DVD's that go through the complete reassemble of a VMax motor and another DVD that goes through the complete rebuild of a 1st gen set of carbs. He still has these DVD's available. The motor rebuild video is 4 hours 45 minutes long. The carb rebuild video is 2 hours 20 minutes long. If you are contemplating rebuilding either the motor or carbs on a 1st gen Venture, these videos are very useful. They show the finer points of a rebuild that is not covered in the Service Manual. The motor video alone is $16.00 & the carb video alone is $13.00. If both are purchased at the same time, the cost is $20.00 for the pair. These prices include shipping to US or Canada. I have no involvement with making or selling these videos, other than providing contact info. I do own a set and they are excellent. Contact Damon at Damon_Ferraiuolo@msn.com . Underscore between 1st & last name. Possibly going to meet up with Damon next month, he will be at another friends place setting up his 85 VMax with flat side carbs about 20 miles from my place. The other friend has a 1st gen VMax that he is in the process of putting a turbo on. I know it is running rather well with an Ignitech TCI on it. Gary

I will send them out tomorrow. Thank You, Gary

One of the carb floats is open and not closing the needle valve. Or, needle valve has failed, possible some debris in it. The overflow tubes dump in the area around the mono shock. Gary

For what it's worth, link below is what I got to use on battery cable sets I am selling now. They are 40 amp rated, 12 gauge wires. 10 pack for 13.95 & free shipping. You could probably sell extras on here and get your money back fairly easy. I used 12 gauge wires because a pair of 10 gauge wires would not fit into 4 gauge terminals I used. 12 gauge is rated at 44 amps, this includes probably a 20% safety factor, so they are adequate for 1st gens. http://www.ebay.com/itm/281098229111?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649 Gary

PM's sent. Thanks, Gary

I might have them. I will mark a set for you and let you know when I am close to being out. I have sold almost half of what I got material for. Not saying I won't get more material though. Gary

The plug connectors are different on the bikes that don't have the gear indicator in the cluster, they won't interchange with the units that do have the gear indicators. 83 & 84 are main ones. The 85's had the cruise light in the tach head, these are interchangeable with the later ones. Gary

So are the cables, should be there tomorrow. Gary

PM sent with PayPal and mailing address is needed. Thanks, Gary

My condolences for your loss Dan. Gary

Starter is probably main issue, 2nd is good battery and then heavier cables. I have 4 gauge cable sets for sale now. Not sure how long I will have these. Lot of work to get them made up. Also all connections have to be clean. One other weak point would be a solenoid that is going bad. High resistance contacts in solenoid would cause cranking issues. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=83883 Gary

Fasten them in a manner where you can shine a bright light up through the bottom of all 4 venturis. Then adjust the sync and idle screws to where each throttle plate is just closing. This can be seen looking directly down into top of venturis. There will be a sliver of light as venturi is close to being fully shut. Start with #2 carb using idle screw to adjust. You may have to loosen the 3 sync screws to allow #2 to fully close. Adjust idle screw until it is just seating. Then adjust #1 sync screw to match closing of #1 butterfly to #2, then move to 3 & 4, sync that pair, then sync 1/2 to 3/4. PDF procedure from 1st gen attached, should be same as yours. This takes a lot of back & forth to get them close if they have been disassembled, but makes it much easier to dial in when on bike. Gary

2 suggestions. Look into drive shaft tube with flashlight and rotate motor until universal yoke is at 45 deg. This helps hold tail of universal joint in a more fixed position angled down. If the yoke is parallel to ground, it has a tendency to flop right to left which makes inserting shaft difficult. Also there is a plug on top of the swing arm (Ventures & RSV's) on top, just behind universal joint, this can be removed & a stiff wire inserted to hook universal tail to help align it. 2nd person helps with this approach. Gary

I added pictures of completed cable set to 1st post in this thread. Pictures show optional extra 12" lead on both battery terminal connections. You probably only need these if you have installed extra fused accesories and would like an extra power feed for them. Gary