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dingy

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Everything posted by dingy

  1. dingy
    How do you operate this? I am the village idiot. Gary
  2. dingy
    That would be a good reason. When you do that, try not to pull it out of U-joint in front. That is, unless you want to lube the u-joint end. I don't know what the recommendations are on this. It is just a PITA to get back in u-joint. Gary
  3. dingy
    [ame=http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=3384]First Gen Service Manuals - VentureRider.Org[/ame] Thread above will take you to a download for the service manual for your bike. You want the one labeled "First Gen Manual". Go to section 6 page 55 for instructions for shaft drive Short answer to your question is Yes you have to remove wheel and final drive to get at drive shaft. Why do you want to remove it though? Gary
  4. dingy
    What kind of venture do you have. It helps if this is added to your profile so it is obvious. User CP.. Edit Your Details .. Custom User Title. Looking at your profile page, it says you have a VTX . Gary After I post this I see it is in 2nd gen forum, Kinda narrows it down I guess, Sorry.
  5. dingy

    G1 dash

    dingy replied to massey130's topic in Watering Hole

    He has several other items listed as '83' One of which is a CLASS control. The other is a right hand switch with cruise on it. There were not many 83's made with these options. When I did the schematic redraws I was told that 83's had these upgrades and the 'enhanced' dash he has listed. This is though a rare one. Gary
  6. dingy
    What year 1300? (86 - up) What year 1200? (83-85) The 1983 were quite different from the 84-85 electrically. Gary
  7. dingy
    Here are the individual pages that are missing from the 83-85 service manual. I will combine them into one complete manual, but I need to talk to Freebird about where he wants to put it. The complete manual is quite large (44.5 meg) Thanks to Snaggletooth for scanning these. Gary
  8. dingy
    Not a moderator, but The OP hasn't posted since 10/8 Gary
  9. dingy
    I think it is a #3 Phillips head. I have one in a socket set, A #2 Phillips wouldn't work, was rounding off like Squidly said. Gary
  10. dingy
    That Sir, is a whole nother can of worms I am still very happy with XP. At least as happy as one can be with microsoft. Firefox is very nice. http://i1007.photobucket.com/albums/af193/gdingy101/canofworms.jpg Gary
  11. dingy
    You can bookmark in your browser. I am on Firefox and it is the first toolbar down. In Explorer its "Add to Favorites" Or you can right click in the page towards the top and get a menu that has "Bookmark this page." Explorer has the same right click feature "Add to favorites" Gary
  12. dingy
    What do you mean Planned obsolescence. You fancy shmancy RSV's are still using our 27 year old cassette deck? What you got to say about that ? Huh Gary
  13. dingy
    The drivers backrest generally bring in the $100 - $125 range. I've watched several in the past 4-5 months and there is always quite a lot of bidding activity on them. I just did a completed search and only found ones for RSV's. I know there have been a couple in the last month or so. Gary
  14. dingy
    MKII forks have electric anti dives (1986 -1993) Quad piston calipers MKI forks are hydraulic anti dives (1983 -1985) dual piston calipers Gary
  15. dingy

    Why?

    dingy replied to mraf's topic in Watering Hole

    ¿ „ʇɐɥʇ op ǝɥ pıp ןןǝɥ ǝɥʇ uı ʍoɥ„ sʇı ¡¡ uoıʇsǝnb ǝɥʇ ʇou sı ʎɥʍ :rotfl:
  16. dingy

    Help!!

    dingy replied to Kregerdoodle's topic in Watering Hole

    I heard tomato juice helps.
  17. dingy
    It is the tool that RandyR had purchased and loaned to me. He has a RSV I believe. But I don't know if he has used it yet. It looked unused when I got it from him. The only thing I know for certain is the number that is stamped into tool. -04105, and that it worked OK for me. I had to make sure it was centered between valves. If I had it off center it would only open 1 valve. I have a 1200 (1983) Gary
  18. dingy
    It worked OK on my 1st Gen. Here is a picture for reference. http://i1007.photobucket.com/albums/af193/gdingy101/Shimtool1.jpg Gary
  19. dingy
    I appreciate that Earl. I am in no way disparaging the kit or services you offer. I was initially just looking for input from anyone as to if what I was thinking of was not possible due to something I was unaware of. (Look at my signature line). You are absolutely correct that the best way to go is the Stainless Steel lines. However, I like living in my house and the better half would make that unbearable if I continue spending on my bike with out a reasonable source of income other than the unemployment check I get. As it was I sold my class ring and first wedding band (neither had any sentimental value considering the current gold prices) for cash to continue working on this. :mo money: Gary
  20. dingy
    In case anyone is interested in trying this, here is a link to a front brake line set from a 1999 RSV that is currently on ebay. Posted by Pinwall cycle. Do a search for item # 350212734688 Gary
  21. dingy
    The port that goes to the front of the bike is unobstructed inside the rear master cylinder, that is to say, the front line gets full pressure coming out of the rear master cylinder pressure chamber. The line to the front brake caliper passes through a metering valve near the triple trees, I have not opened this valve up but I would assume that its purpose is to restrict the flow into the front caliper. Between the rear proportioning valve and the front metering valve, the 70/30 pressure difference is obtained. From what I have found by disassembling rear master cylinder, by blocking the front port off with a bolt at rear master cylinder, and removing the plunger from proportioning valve, full rear master cylinder pressure would be delivered to rear caliper. The same full flow to the rear master would be obtained by relocating the rear brake line to the front port on the rear master cylinder though. The port that originally ran to the rear caliper is then blocked off with a bolt. This relocating is what requires the longer brake line. I believe that this is unnecessary though, with removal of the proportioning valve plunger. Gary
  22. dingy
    I have done some investigating into the need to move the brake line on the rear master. Don't vote me off of the island for this. I am working on a limited budget here. I have been laid off most of this year. If I had the funds there would be MKII brake system on the scooter. By removing the proportioning valve plunger and replacing the valve body nut, and plugging the front brake line port, I can see no reason to have to replace the rear brake line, other than age. There is an unobstructed fluid path through the proportioning valve body once the plunger is removed that is equivalent in size to the hole in the banjo bolts. The one thing that I would point out if anyone were to do this is to be sure and remove the black rubber seal that is inside of the proportioning valve cover nut. If this were to remain inside the valve body it could become dislodged at some point and cause a line blockage. (seen in 2nd & 3rd pictures) First picture is of a spare master cylinder I have. This shows the proportioning valve. http://i1007.photobucket.com/albums/af193/gdingy101/master6.jpg This picture shows the cap removed from the proportioning valve. Note the black rubber seal inside of the cap. http://i1007.photobucket.com/albums/af193/gdingy101/master4.jpg View of proportioning valve plunger removed. Note the black rubber seal setting beside the cap. This plunger slides right out of valve body, no retainer clips. http://i1007.photobucket.com/albums/af193/gdingy101/master7.jpg View through proportioning valve body showing fluid passage. http://i1007.photobucket.com/albums/af193/gdingy101/master5.jpg Gary
  23. dingy
    One rotation of front tire is almost exactly 3 revolutions of the speedometer cable at top. This is American format bike (MPH) How did he do this so quickly you ask? Picture below is of my once nice looking 1st gen all decked out for its winter rework. Gary
  24. dingy
    Help me out. 2 new questions From what Earl says, The rear brake line at the master cylinder must now have to be connected to the port that previously ran to the front of the bike ? Otherwise why would the existing rear line no longer work. Do I put new line in front port and plug rear port? I included a picture of a rear master cylinder for reference. Open port is front line, hose is for rear slave. http://i1007.photobucket.com/albums/af193/gdingy101/master2.jpg 2nd, and this is VERY important. How much is this going to SLOW my 1st gen down if I put this 2nd gen part on it ?? :think: Gary
  25. dingy
    Could it be the same internally, but with different graphics on the front of the speedo. There was a link to a picture on here at one time of a Kilo unit but it is gone now. Gary
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