Jump to content

dingy

Expired Membership
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    5,403

  • Joined

  • Last visited

 Content Type 

Everything posted by dingy

  1. dingy
    Attached are a couple of pictures of it if that helps at all. I didn't see it in parts fiche either. Not shown on BikeBandits parts list. Gary
  2. dingy
    This appears to be a hoax. Not that it isn't very good advice to not open stuff like this. There is nothing currently on McAffee's watch list pertaining to this. http://www.mcafee.com/us/threat_center/default.asp Snopes list it as a hoax. http://www.snopes.com/computer/virus/postcard.asp And Google search shows nothing current. [ame=http://www.google.com/search?q=postcard+from+hallmark+virus&ie=utf-8&oe=utf-8&aq=t&rls=org.mozilla:en-US:official&client=firefox-a]postcard from hallmark virus - Google Search[/ame] Still good advice though. Gary
  3. dingy
    Since my acquisition of a 1988 parts bike I have been able to add the 1988 brake handle geometry to the previous 1983 brake handle for comparison. See attached PDF for comparisons The leverage for the two handles is identical for practical purposes. There is a .06 mm (.0025") difference. That is totally within the accuracy range considering that I drew these handles from a scanned image. If some one wants to send me an RSV handle scan I will add it. I don't think I will be getting an RSV parts bike anytime. No fast parts on them anyways !! Gary
  4. dingy
    Now you done did it. Your Going to get Yammer Dan going.
  5. dingy
    What is the amperage load of the lights being added? wattage/voltage = amps You want to select a fuse based on the weakest component in the circuit. If you are using 14 gauge wire I would suggest a 20 amp fuse, this is then assuming that the entire circuit is wired with wire no smaller than 14 gauge. This includes ground wires. 12 gauge will handle 30 amps. You can always use a larger size wire with a given fuse size. Make sure any switches, fuse holders etc. are rated at the given fuse size. Also, locate the fuse as close to the power source as practical. This cuts down on non fused wire runs. Gary
  6. dingy
    Never mind then, Problem doesn't exist with no 87A contact. Gary
  7. dingy
    Walter, Looks very good. One thing I would suggest is a very easy & minor wiring change. I would suggest that if you are not going to use the 87A contact (Normally Closed) on a relay, that you put the power source on terminal 87 instead of 30. The reason I would do this is that when the relay in de-energized, and power is fed to the 30 terminal, you then have the power laying on the 87A terminal. If you haven't used this terminal in your circuit, it is an exposed uninsulated terminal. I have attached a diagram showing the difference. On the top right, the power is on the 30 contact. When de-energized, you can see the power then lays on the 87A contact. On the bottom right, the power is on the 87 contact. When de-energized, you can see the 87A contact is now unpowered. Either way will work, but the top right way is somewhat like having a bare wire laying exposed inside your fairing. To make this change on your relay, simply swap the wires on the 30 & 87 terminals. Gary
  8. dingy
    http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=42853 Look towards bottom of this thread. One of the charts and graphs I love so much. Gary
  9. dingy
    Here is one at Pinwall Cycle. Go to Ebay.com Search on 190094868010 14.95 + 4.98 shipping Gary
  10. dingy
    I have attached a PDF file of the 83's wiring with the Audio power plug highlighted with a red 'cloud'. Your radio will probably have two power inputs. One will be a constant 12VDC source, this one is to keep clock & memory working. 2nd will be a switched 12VDC source. This one turns radio on & off with key. Inside the 'cloud' in the PDF file is the schematic of the connector that I posted picture above. You will need to remove the headlight to find this connector, or you may see it under the left fairing cover where I showed radio The Red/Blue wire at this connector is the constant 12VDC. The Red wire is the switched 12VDC. The Black wire is ground. Cut the connector off & wire a fuse into each of the 12V sources. The size of these fuses will be shown in Radio instructions if you have them. You will add the fuses per above comment that are shown inside 'cloud' in PDF file. Gary
  11. dingy
    Here is a thread related to him, but email in it is not valid. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=41374&highlight=INPUT Gary
  12. dingy
    Below is a picture of the audio power terminal. It is located in headlight housing. Picture is of terminal from my old 83 harness. Gary
  13. dingy
    http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=42358 Here is wiring diagram link. You want 1983 Venture XVZ12TK There are two versions of it. One shows all the wiring harness connectors, other is simplified version. Gary
  14. dingy
    Attached is Tech Notice from Yamaha on fixing oil leak in MKI's Gary
  15. dingy
    19/20 on signs 16/20 on collisions Why did I get red x'ed on one below? There are two Yield signs. Gary
  16. dingy
    Here is picture of cheap radio I installed in place of stock one. Was $20 at local junkyard. Took some McGyvering to close up cover that had stock radio in it. I have a separate cover for parking when it might rain. Gary
  17. dingy
    Aw shucks, I tried. Gary
  18. dingy
    http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=43984 Look at this thread for some speaker ideas. Gary
  19. dingy
    http://www.venturerider.org/classifieds/showproduct.php/product/2531/cat/6 This is in classified forum now. Gary
  20. dingy
    Excellent job Steve !! Very unique looking venture. Gary
  21. dingy
    Ya know what I mean, like, I know what ya mean bro.
  22. dingy
    There was an article on the news about them rolling out the space shuttle in Florida a couple of days ago. They said it was 29 deg.. They rotated the workers every 30 minutes due to the extreme cold. Extreme Cold !! 29 Deg. :rotfl::rotfl:
  23. dingy
    I thought you worked for a taxi company that specialized in giving Marines rides ? Gary
  24. dingy
    I found this on another Yamaha related site. Not Venture ! Doesn't give pitch size though. Many people are not aware of the relationship between Yamaha part numbers and sizes of some fasteners. Knowing that this relationship exists can sometimes save you a tremendous amount of time and hopefully prevent you from ordering something you don't really need when replacing or upgrading fasteners. 91314-08020-00. If you look carefully at the center set of digits, (-08020-), they are not likely to do a thing for you unless you happen to know in advance that this bolt is 08mm in diameter and 20mm long , "08020" is an 8x20mm bolt! The bolts that hold the end plate on the clutch are Yamaha Part no: 97017-06025-00, so this bolt is 6x25mm right ? The screws that hold the end caps on the carburetors are Yamaha part no: 98580-05012-00, so these screws are 5x12mm. This relationship is not accurate 100% of the time. There are some fasteners that have special qualities that will use the center digit alone or the entire string for other purposes. Keeping that in mind this information will hopefully make life somewhat easier the next time you are wondering "what size is that bolt?" Gary
  25. dingy
    The molybdenum disulfide is actually in its natural state in this chalk form. The oil or grease carrier that the moly is contained in will dissipate leaving behind the molybdenum disulfide. Dow Corning uses alcohol as a carrier for moly to allow it to flow into bearings in certain applications. I know its hard to think of an effective lubricant in a dry state, but consider graphite, which is a more common form of a dry lubricant. When used in the lubrication of the spline joints on the drive shaft, the molybdenum disulfide does not need to be in a liquid form (viscous). It is not moving through oil passages or pumps that would require a liquid form. Below in red is a cut from a web page dealing with M/C drive shafts, this describes the physical properties of the molybdenum disulfide . http://motorcycleinfo.calsci.com/Shaft.html "The drive splines get surprisingly hot. Additionally, there's a lot of pressure on the splines and a lot of back and forth sliding motion. Any liquid type of grease will quickly be squeezed out of the splines, and leave you with no protection. The first time you remove your rear tire, you will likely find that the factory grease has dried out completely and solidified into something which does not even remotely resemble a lubricant. Actually, if it's a good Moly grease, it's still doing its job in this form, but it's not a pretty sight. Honda specifies a spline grease which is 60% molybdenum disulfide ("moly"). Moly is a dry lubricant which bonds to the metal surfaces, offering lubrication properties even when the parts have squeezed everything liquid out. A lot of greases now say "Moly" on the container, but you must be careful about this. Ford and Caterpillar specify moly greases for particular applications, but the requirement is for 3% moly, not even close to the 60% requirement of Honda. It's not enough to buy a moly grease, what you really want is basically dry moly in a grease-like carrier which makes it easier to apply" Technical write up from Engineers Edge http://www.engineersedge.com/lubrication/molybdenum_disulfide_characteristics.htm Molybdenum disulfide (MoS2 ). Like graphite, MoS2 has a low friction coefficient, but, unlike graphite, it does not rely on adsorbed vapors or moisture. In fact, adsorbed vapors may actually result in a slight, but insignificant, increase in friction. MoS2 also has greater load-carrying capacity and its manufacturing quality is better controlled. Thermal stability in non oxidizing environments is acceptable to 1100°C (2012°F), but in air it may be reduced to a range of 350 to 400°C (662 to 752°F). There are currently no clear lubrication alternatives to molybdenum disulfide or the very similar tungsten disulfide that can resist temperatures higher than 350°C in oxidizing environments. Research has been conducted on compacted oxide layer glazes, which form during metallic surface sliding wear at several hundred degrees Celsius. However, because these oxide layers are physically-unstable, their use has currently not proven practical. Applications: It is often used in two-stroke engines; e.g., motorcycle engines. MoS2 is also used in CV and universal joints. During the Vietnam War, the molybdenum disulfide product "Dri-Slide" was used to lubricate weapons, although it was supplied from private sources, not the military. MoS2-coatings allow bullets easier passage through the rifle barrel with less deformation and better ballistic accuracy. Gary
×
×
  • Create New...