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dingy

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Everything posted by dingy

  1. dingy
    I will be placing order Monday morning , February 1, 2010 for these. Let me know if any one else interested. Gary
  2. dingy
    Actually I found it interesting that the part number for the Steering Head Nut Lock Washer was a 26H prefix, same as the 83 model's. Imagine that, Maytag parts on an RSV. Gary
  3. dingy
    That could be a problem I found the manual and other info online, but no direct reference to this model. I will check with a distributor Found them listed in an online catalog, page 9. http://www.dynaonline.com/skins/downloads/catalogs/09DynaCatalogv5.pdf Gary
  4. dingy
    I briefly communicated to Squeeze about it and he thought it should. Attached below is the Dynatek & the 86-93 ignition curves. The dynatek manual is also attached. Dynatek unit has a number of different curve options. Not saying it will or won't for sure, but I am interested in it considering my CDI situation. Gary
  5. dingy
    Something else to consider that has been around longer than the ignnitech is a dynatek unit The Dynatek 3000 D3K7-7, it is for 85-89 vmax's, if it works on them, it should work on our 84 - 89 ventures. http://www.dynaonline.com/skins/Default.aspx Gary
  6. dingy
    I have received a quote for producing a tool that will allow the tightening of the fork bearing nut with a 3/8" torque wrench. This procedure is outlined in the service manuals beginning with the 1986 manual. This is under Periodic Inspection & Adjustment - Chassis - Steering Head Adjustment. Also, if you are the proud owner of the MKI (83-85) Ventures, you could use the procedure outlined in the 86-93 manual. If you need a copy of this procedure I can provide it for you. The tool will work on any year Venture. The same part number is shown in the part fiche from 1983 through the RSV's for the steering head bearing nut. I have a one piece sample coming so I can try it to insure fitment. The tool will be laser cut from 1/4" thick, 304 stainless steel, mill finish. In order to cut the cost for the tool, I will receive the tool from the supplier just as they come off the laser cutter. There will be a slight amount of slag that I will clean up using my stationary belt sander. I need to know how much interest there would be in this tool. I can supply this tool at a cost of $23.00 including first class shipping to lower 48 US & Canada. I would not have to be paid in advance for this item. Payment would be made at time of order. Supplier has agreed to allow me 30 days to pay. If you would be interested in one of these, please post to this thread or PM me. Attached is a picture showing dimensioned tool, left side shows engagement with nut, right side is a scan of Yamaha tool. Gary
  7. dingy
    I did a search on this site for 'Banner' and numerous threads popped up. But the one below looked interesting. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=42702 I have no idea if it is connected to your question though, just a possibility. Gary
  8. dingy
    Take a look at this thread for the Usual Suspects. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=42469 Gary
  9. dingy
    First you upload all the pictures you want as detailed in above post. Then, in the window that you are typing your post text into, there is a paperclip icon. This is in the top row, next to the smiley face icon. Click on the icon and it will display a drop down menu showing your attached pictures. Click on the bottom line that reads 'Insert All' It will insert the pictures in the following format. The text '[ATTACH]xxxxxx[/ATTACH]' will appear for each picture with the xxxxx's replaced by a number. You can cut and paste these to rearrange your pictures. Also type in text between the displayed pictures. If you delete the '[ATTACH]xxxxxx[/ATTACH]' string for a given picture, it will revert to the thumbnail display at the bottom of the post. To remove it from there, go back to Manage Attachments menu and clicking on the remove button beside the file name. You can also post more than 10 pictures by filling out the 10 slots in the Manage Attachments menu, uploading these files, then adding more pictures to the now empty browse tabs. Do a preview post before submitting to see if things look the way you want. Picture size display is somewhat dependent on pixel size. Gary
  10. dingy
    Look at last thread in this link on help with inserting pictures. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=44037 Gary
  11. dingy
    It would be helpful to know when something we posted was over the line and caused a deletion. I know that some of the jokes I post are 'out there' a little bit, but I don't really think any are way over the line. But if one is deleted I may not even realize it. It's not like I 'monitor' the threads I post jokes to. For example, I posted the 'Navy Carrier Humor' reply a few days ago about the thread where someone had visited the Midway carrier museum. That joke could have been taken as political or religous, but it seemed no one posted being offended by it. Gary
  12. dingy
    Why are the later years better. Does better mean more HP or more pollution controls? Gary
  13. dingy
    I didn't mention MKII's OP has an 83, MKI. Gary
  14. dingy
    Not quite as simple as replacing the calipers on the MKI's (83-85) We have to replace forks, rotors & calipers. The R1 calipers have a 100mm bolt pattern at fork mounting point. The originals have an 80mm bolt pattern. Rotors are different diameter as well. Gary
  15. dingy
    Pull your radio head out of the holder & check that all of the pins are at the same height. Push on each on and see if they are all locked into contact base. I had one of mine come loose and was pushing back into contact base. I put epoxy on back side of contact to hold in place. Replaced it last year with a car stereo. Gary
  16. dingy
    On ebay, search on these item #'s. 160398990829 160398990869 400099948146 It is the shifter drum, forks & linkage out of an 84. Also look at other items by this seller. He has stripped the engine all the way down. You may be able to use some of these parts. Gary
  17. dingy
    BoomerCPO Update #2 After having a can of whoop-ass opened upon him by a Mr. Brutus, allegedly the boyfreind of Miss Olive Oyl, the relationship soured. http://i1007.photobucket.com/albums/af193/gdingy101/Bluto.jpg Miss Oyl attempted to reconcile with our Popeye, but to no avail. http://i1007.photobucket.com/albums/af193/gdingy101/popeyecartoon7.jpg Later Popeye was seen in the company of a new interest... http://i1007.photobucket.com/albums/af193/gdingy101/popeyecartoon1.jpg Hopefully, the chief will be back with us any day now from his adventure.
  18. dingy
    Here are a few more pictures. These are from an 83 engine. I think some of the previous pictures in this thread may be from RSV's. These pictures are with the clutch cover off, and then wiyh the clutch basket removed. Also there is a PDF attached showing the parts of an 83 transmission. Also below is a thread to the procedure to fix 2nd gear, which will point you in the direction you may need to go if it is an internal problem. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=508 Gary
  19. dingy
    Hi, this is Nancy, dingy's wife (lucky me) I just hit my 23rd year as a customer service rep at an optical lab, we make glasses for doctors all over the country. I hear all the complaints and comments you have all committed on. My first suggestion is make sure you go to a good optometrist, your retail optical places have different standards as far as the quality of your glasses. Also when going to a doctor's office they have all types of warranties as far as being able to remake your glasses for you until you are comfortable with the lenses and the frames (so don't give up until they are right). They also have warranties for your lenses that get scratched, and some of the doctors even replace them for more serious damage(such as the dog chewing them up). Also most of the companies that make progressive lenses gives you a nice time limit to get adjusted to your progressives so you can go back to your doctor until they are correct and they SHOULD be redone at no charge because those lenses can be returned to the lab that made the glasses and they will remake them at no charge for the doctor, because the lab then returns them to the manufacturer and gets their money back. Progressive lenses are more expensive so the manufacturers do whatever they can to keep the doctors ordering them. Keep in mind though that a lot of retail optical stores do not follow these procedures (I really am not putting down the retail optical stores, because most of them are less expensive, but that factors into why they don't offer the same warranty.) You just have to decide what is best for you. I have never heard of any law about a prescription having to be redone every year. Most of your doctors suggest two years. If you are having trouble with your progressives there are a lot of issues that should be considered because there are so many different manufacturers out there. Dingy wears a type of progressive that literally makes me sick. The progressive needs to be measured correctly for you or you will never get used to it, and it does take a few days to adjust, even when you have a prescription change. If you are having problems when turning your head have the doctor double check you "pd" which is the distance between your eyes, if that has been measured wrong or comes back from the lab wrong, you will have problems, other things that need checked would be the seg hgt, thats where your reading area starts, if it is measured too high or too low you will have a lot of up and down trying to focus. Some of the progressive brands have a wider corridor than others, which means the bifocal actually gets wider as it graduates down the lens. There are some new progressives out there that are digitally designed especially for you. Some of you talked about having a bifocal at the top and at the bottom, those are occupational lenses, they were designed for plumbers and electricians. Dingy was complaining of having a sore neck because he was always on the computer, so he was always tilting his head up, so I had a pair of computer glasses made for him, it is a different lens design for people who do a lot of computer work, similar in some ways to readers, so now you have eliminated all the head tilting. You use the same prescription that you were originally given for you progressives, your doctors just tells the lab that they need to adjust it to the computer style. Don't give up on your progressive, make sure your eye wear was made correctly for you. Nancy
  20. dingy
    Oh it was worse than that. I went to leave to go to my doctor this morning, got in my truck and started to back out. Realized I still had my computer vision lenses on. Got out of truck, left it running, and went back in house to get regular. When I came back out about two minutes later, my truck was gone. I then realized what had happened. I had left truck in reverse and it had then rolled back out of my driveway, across the road into the neighbors that share a wide driveway, went past one car and rolled to a stop up against a tree. I was so lucky, absolutely no damage to anything. Gary
  21. dingy
    Factory wrenches are .280" thick. Nut off of an 88 is .275" thick. I don't want to go much thinner than .25" My next choice down in thickness is 7 gage material, which is .179" thick. I may drop the material down to H.R.S. instead of S.S. Gary
  22. dingy
    Sorry about the REPEAT. Been a long morning. I literally LOST my truck this morning. Gary
  23. dingy
    http://jimspages.com/States.htm Map of USA Puzzle.. THIS IS NEAT Wonder how a high school senior would do on this one? See how you do in placing the states of the United States Of America .. All you do is look at the top of the page and drag'n'drop the state to where it belongs. Smart map, varies the order of the states' placement with each new try! It isn't easy mostly because placing a state in the precise location when it as yet has no boundaries in place is a bit tricky! No half credit for close but over a tad.... 86% Score 20 mile average error 263 seconds time Gary
  24. dingy
    Yes, baking soda, from almost any grocery store. Look at thread below. Cougar posted a low cost blaster you can make. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=44637 Gary
  25. dingy
    You might not want to sandblast carbs. Look at soda blasting them. A grain of sand is large enough to block some of the passages in a carb. Gary
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