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dingy

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Everything posted by dingy

  1. dingy
    bump
  2. dingy
    There should be no differences in putting 89 motor in. Carbs are identical. CDI is identical. Wiring harness is identical with the only exceptions being noise filters on the front & rear brake switches and fan motor. None of these are involved in swap. Mounting points on motor's are identical. I am in process of putting an 88 into my 83, so I have looked into differences in model years. Gary
  3. dingy
    I was in contact with my supplier on Wednesday 2/3/10. They wanted $75.00 to do a 1 piece prototype for me. This was quite a bit higher than I was expecting. They agreed to set up to run my order quantity, and allow me to inspect the first piece off of that run at no additional cost They are going to call me prior to setting up to run and I will go to plant. Its about 25 minutes from here. If first piece is acceptable I will get order at that time. If first piece is not acceptable, I will make design modifications and reschedule. I will incur one time piece charge if this happens. The order acknowledgment says they will run order by 2/12/10 One other slight change is the material was to be mill finish 1/4" stainless steel., They had a piece of brushed 1/4" stainless steel in stock that parts are going to be run on. I am not sure if this is brushed on one side or both. This will make a nicer looking finished product. It will complicate my cleanup somewhat though. A laser burner produces a small amount of slag on the downside of sheet being burnt. I was just going to touch this surface to my stationary belt sander to clean up. May have to come up with plan B Gary
  4. dingy
    His first mistake was bringing that RSV in at top speed. Gary
  5. dingy
    I never had bike running. It was MiCarls organ donor parts bike. I think he only had it running briefly. Only real problem outside of this I have found at this point is a couple of the carb diaphragms had a lot of pinholes around outside edge. Gary
  6. dingy
    I have a 1988 with 28,500 miles on it stripped down. Cylinder heads and valves looked normal. Pistons 1 & 2 have a tight oil ring. There is burnt oil below rings on #'s 1 & 2. End clearance on #1 ring about .020" on on all 4. End clearance on #2 ring about .020" on 3 & 4. End clearance on #2 ring about .026" on 1 & 2. Side clearance on all oil rings in tolerance. Cylinder walls good on 2,3 & 4, cross hatching still very visible. Cylinder wall on #1 not bad condition but cross hatching not as visible. No ridge at top of cylinder. What if any thing specific would cause left side pistons to be in worse shape than right side. Picture shows pistons 1 -4, left to right. Gary
  7. dingy
    Oh, that's a picture I didn't need in my head. Freebird, in bed with his Power Rangers jammies on, texting away. What is seen, cannot be unseen. http://i1007.photobucket.com/albums/af193/gdingy101/yellow_guy_crazy_hg_wht.gif Gary
  8. dingy
    Wo Hoo !! Party Time
  9. dingy
    All wil be 304 Stainless Steel. Might be able to powder coat though for an up charge. White, Black, Red or Yellow Gary
  10. dingy
    Its on its way to you. Gary
  11. dingy
    I don't know if this will help you guys trouble shoot the cruise control on the RSV's or not. I took the wiring diagram for the RSV's and removed anything that was not related to the cruise control. This may make it a little easier to narrow down an electrical problem. The throttle position sensor is tied into the cruise circuits. So maybe the throttle cable free play might be an issue. Gary
  12. dingy
    Now your saying y'all invented NASCAR
  13. dingy
    http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=44580 This thread is very similar, less than two weeks old. Gary
  14. dingy
    If it would help you out any, I have an extra stand from an 88 that I don't need. You could get it to a welder, while keeping your bike running. All I would want is my shipping costs. [ATTACH]40991[/ATTACH] Gary
  15. dingy
    I have an HP8000DN that I got from a lease company for $600 about 7 years ago These printers have a monthly duty cycle of 130,000 pages. This one had around 300,000 page count on it. Thats about 2 1/2 months normal service. Will do up to 11 x 17" Dual sided capable. Monochrome 3 trays. Toners are around $50 but last forever. 15,000 pages @ 5% coverage. Mine has network card & parallel. This thing is built like a 1st gen, fast, dependable, and like a maytag, no repairs. Search Ebay on 8000DN Gary
  16. dingy
    I would be cautious about applying 12 volts to headlight without disconnecting the connector on the CMU that I pointed out in previous post to this thread. The headlight system puts an input voltage into the CMU on one set of wires then the CMU puts out a 12 volts to the headlight on another set of wires. I don't know what the effect of putting 12 volts on the output side of the CMU would be. Maybe nothing, maybe a new CMU. Gary
  17. dingy
    I contacted my supplier of these tachs about warranty if anything should come up. The tachs will be covered for 90 days from time of purchase. Tach would need to be returned for replacement. If anything does arise and you need to return due to warranty issue, contact me by email or PM and I will provide information required. He also wanted me to inform you that the tachs are NOT waterproof as shipped from factory. There is a protective cover over the face of the tach that does help keep water out. Also, the cable entrance to the tach should be siliconed if you want to help waterproof. I do not see this being an issue since the intended purpose here is for engine tuning. He said there is a man in Austrailia that sellls this same tach and he does procedure below to waterproof these. This guy sells these for $65.00 Austrailian, obout $58.00 US. He puts them on ATV's that are exposed to elements though. He leaves the front protective film in place, removes the rear panel and pulls the wire back in about 1/2 inch and coats it with silicone sealant, then pulls it back out to seal the hole. He then puts a packett of silica gel in side of the meter to adsorb any moisture before he seals it, then seals the back panel with sealant. He said that without the silica gel, he was getting condensation that was trapped in side of the meter when he sealed them. It would condense on the display area. He is in a coastal area with high humidity. Gary
  18. dingy
    Yes, I have it. I have info from every one that is in the list in my first post that is shown in red. Gary
  19. dingy
    If he applies the jumpers & still gets the dimming it could be the RLU. Possible check would then be to disconnect RLU & try jumpers again. Gary
  20. dingy
    The "imiagehacks' was also part of SilverT's problem See thread below & look at picture he posted in first post in thread. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?threadid=44831 Gary
  21. dingy
    With the head light disconnected, does the dash still dim? If it does there is a fair chance it is the CMU unit. That is the dash display that shows fuel level, and other warnings. There is a thread on here about resoldering the connections in it. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=33328 This thread detailed the unit out of an 83 bike which is somewhat different from the 90 model. Same procedure overall though. Also here is a thread to a schematic for the bike. 90-93 Yamaha Venture DA Wiring Diagram Rev C.pdf I could suggest a method to verify the wiring coming out of the CMU unit. It would require your getting access to the area behind the headlight. I don't have a 90 model, the fairing is somewhat different from my 83. Once you get access to the backside of the speedometer head, disconnect the smaller of the two white connectors that plug into the center of the head. You will see one of the wires in the connector is a Green wire with a red tracer. This is the low beam circuit output. Another wire is a yellow wire with a green tracer. This is the High beam circuit output. If you jumper positive battery on the Green wire with a red tracer the low beam should light up. If you jumper positive battery on the yellow wire with a green tracer the high beam should light up. If both of these work, then the problem may be in the CMU. Next thing to check would be the connections at the left handle bar switch, and then inside switch itself. Here is a thread on cleaning this switch. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=42721 Let us know if any of this helps or not and we can suggest further steps. Gary
  22. dingy
    That's the neat thing about prototypes, If at first you don't succeed, change it and make another one. The neat thing about doing this one for myself instead of some employer is I don't have a salesman yelling at me to ship it anyways. Gary
  23. dingy
    Check or money order will be fine for the wrench payment. I will let you know when I have them. I should get sample next week, then following week for order from supplier. Gary
  24. dingy
    That is the same part number for the wrench that is listed in RSV manual. Below is a cut from RSV manual. Second wrench shown in manual is to hold bottom nut while you tighten top nut per manual. Or you could use two of mine, or pliers. Gary
  25. dingy
    Do you have a part fiche for bike? The part # for nut it fits is 90179-25033-00 It's in steering section in RSV fiche. Gary
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