dingy

Attached are screen shots that may help you locate them. Use the call out # in the exploded view and in the text picture it will reference a cover #. Gary

The parts fiche has chrome caps numbered in the parts breakdown. Each cap has a number cast into the lower side I am assuming corresponds to parts fiche call out. This is all taken with a grain of salt considering I don't have a Running Hybrid/RSV yet. http://www.boats.net/parts/search/Yamaha/Motorcycle/2003/ROYAL%20STAR%20MIDNIGHT%20VENTURE%20%28Onyx%29%20-%20XVZ1300TFSR/CYLINDER%20HEAD/parts.html Gary

I am fairly sure they will only fit on one way. Front and rear are interchangeable per parts fiche. Gary

Attached is picture of front forks I just took, dust seal on left has been slid up a few inches so you can see it. Right one is in place. Gary

The dust seal will be obvious when it is assembled. Can you post a picture of the seal area with the fork booties pulled up showing top of lower tube? It will be easy to see dust seal. Gary

I looked at the parts fiche for the 90-93 Ventures and they do not show a dust cover. Also looked at the service manual for the 86-93 Ventures, I have the addendum's for 88-89 and 90-93. They do not show a change to the fork assemblies. The lower outer fork tube does show a part number change in 1990 though indicating a change. Does bike have dust covers on it now?. The seal p/n's are the same in 1986 & 1991, which indicates outer fork bore at the top is the same as well as the outer dia. of the upper fork tube. Your existing dust covers are likely reusable if you don't want to chance buying a pair. They are $13.38 each on Boats.net for the 1988 set. I would think that they are needed. Yamaha has numerous errors in the service manual and likely the parts fiches as well. A low cost seal driver can be made from an 18" long 1 1/2" schedule 40 piece of pvc pipe. Chamfer the I.D. of the pipe that will be against the seal to prevent damage to the seal lip. The seal can be driven in using a hammer on upper end of pipe. This will only work if the forks have been removed from the triple trees. Some people rebuild the forks while upper tubes are still in the triple trees, which then requires a split driver to get them seated. There are two washers, above and below the main oil seal. the one with the larger I.D. goes under the seal, the one with the smaller I.D. goes above the seal. I have seen the upper washer be either a flat washer, or a cone shape. Varies in different years. If the larger I.D. washer is placed above the seal, the seal will be forced up through the washer. I found this out by reassembling a set incorrectly and they rather quickly started leaking again. Gary

I don't think an RSV case will work. It's a small detail but an issue. The shift shaft that goes from clutch side to the left side is a larger diameter than the 1st gen shaft. They are not interchangeable without machine work to shaft. A cosmetic issue I know of is the cylinder side covers are quite different on an RSV. Another option would be 1983-1985 Venture, these a 1200cc motors so you would need the pistons & rods, crank is the same. You could also put a 1200 VMax motor in it, 85-07. block is interchangeable, but you would need pistons, rod & crank. I am fairly sure Venture rotor will fit on VMax crank. I know someone to ask that will know for sure if you get a lead on a VMax. Gary

Link 2nd Gen kit in classifieds Gary

Problem with mounting the VMax VBoost on an RSV/RSTD is that it raises the card rack 1 1/4" higher. This causes the carbs to interfere with the fuel tank by a lot. There is not a chance the VMax air box will fit, there is no way it would clear the tank in its unmodified condition, even if the VBoost intakes are not used. Also the VBoost unit has different spacing front to rear on the carbs than a 2nd gen. The cams & valve springs are a direct replacement for the RSV and RSTD's. Gary

Ain't it 400 miles if he comes to you??? Same if you go to him. Must not be that good of friends if you can't meet at 200. Both are a couple of whimps. Gary

I'm only 68 away from 5,000 !!! Lifetime free membership on forum, here I come!! WooHoo Gary

Attached is a picture of the exact same area as in your 4th picture. There is some light marking on the case in the area that yours is damaged. This is caused by side thrust of the crank touching this machined surface. This is the 1300 block that is in my 83 (Tweety) now. Bike has had some extensive modifications to the power train and has held together at over 10K RPM's on a few occasions, so I am fairly sure this light marking shown in my picture is not fatal. Something else in your motor has failed to allow this contact with the rod. The crankshaft has a machined surface near this area that has contacted it. Gary

Picture #4 looks bad, real bad. Those are machined surfaces at that point that control the side thrust of the crank. I would not use that case, upper or lower as they are matched halves. But then I run the livin crap out of them. Again, ask Skydoc_17 or Squidly for a 2nd opinion. Gary

This is bad news and good news, once again I messed this up. I'm blaming old age and a weird way of numbering from Yamaha. The Bad news. The crankcase #'s are read in the order they are inscribed on block. However the markings on crank & balance are read opposite. Journal # 4 is first number on crankcase, far right journal viewed as though you were sitting on bike, but on the crankshaft it is the last number. Same with balancer shaft. The good news. Due to the way your numbers are numerically & order. You have the correct set of bearings ordered. All bearing sizes are read facing front of motor, left to right. Case/Mains 6 5 5 6 Crank/Mains - 2 3 3 3 Main Bearings 4 2 2 3 Brown (size #3) on Outer Left main (J1) - Black (size #2) on Inner Left main (J2) - Black (size #2) on Inner Right main(J3) - Green (size #4) on Outer Right main (J4) Case/Balancer 7 6 balancer - 2 2 Balancer Bearings 5 4 Green (size #4) on Left balance (J5) - Yellow (size #5) on right balance(J6) Rods are all the same. Rods 7 7 7 7 Crank Rods - 3 3 3 3 Rod bearings 4 4 4 4 Call me if this does not seem right, I have done this several times and typing it out is confusing as heck. Number is in profile. A second look at it by Skydoc_17 or Squidley, 2 I can think of, would be great. I am going to send them both a PM to look at this. The videos make this much clearer, they are worth the money. Gary

Not with VMax final drive on it. I don't know if a stock final is any better. I would rather have it pinned, but axle isn't long enough. Gary

Next task is follow the thread linked below. This will help us help you. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?p=823738#post823738 You can also go to my profile page and look at albums I have for some pictures of what can be done to a Venture if you have time & patience. Hybrid is still a work in progress, but it will be purdy when it leaves garage. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/member.php?u=5971 Gary

That looks correct. It is very important that your starting point for rotating crank to T2 location start with the crank at T1 location, and cams on rear head have timing mark aligned with small holes pointed up. You MUST rotate crank 430 degrees, you will pass T2 mark once. Reason being is crank turns 2 revolutions for every 1 revolution of cams. If you do not do this, front cams will be 180 degrees out of time, and valves will crash into pistons. Gary

I just ordered some from Fastenal. I got extras, so I will put some for sale in my member vendor classified listing when I get them. I got all steel and also some nylon insert style. Thanks, Jeff. Gary

18 x 1.50 nylok Gary

I think I found it on Partshark.com. They list 90185-18009-00 as a replacement for 90185-18167-00. Boats.net didn't show the replacement #. Gary