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dingy

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Everything posted by dingy

  1. 25 mm Gary
  2. Below is a link to an excel spreadsheet I made to help in picking shims. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=43410 Gary
  3. I have been having the same thing happen. I have been also putting the Ebay item number in post, then that can be used to find referenced item. Gary
  4. An overall length. The length of the splines on each end. Within an 1/8" will be close enough. Shaft will have to be out of bike to measure. Thank You, Gary http://i1007.photobucket.com/albums/af193/gdingy101/PICT5464m.jpg
  5. Does anyone have an MKII driveshaft that they could get me a length measurement from ? I am having an issue with my MKI shaft and the FJR rear end Gary
  6. First plug might be power lead for radio (total guess on this one) The second plug is possibly for the California smog device, not needed. The third plug is probably the connection to the smoothing capacitor. You don't need this. It's purpose is to reduce radio & CB static. Gary
  7. It won't be rings or the wet reading would have come up significantly. That is reason for putting oil in for second check. Why is compression reading this high for this engine? It is same bore and stroke as a 1st gen MKII which is shown at 10.5:1 compression ratio. Compression for this engine is shown as 171 PSI in service manual. This engine is shown as a 10.0:1 compression ratio, yet shows 216 PSI in service manual. Gary
  8. Get SkyDoc17 a PM. He will probably work on it. Gary
  9. Mike, Flasher relay is on left side under fairing. Hazard flasher is in same area. Remove the left turn signal housing and you should be able to see it down there. It sets in bracket pointed to in attached picture. 83 model has a flasher that is unique to that year. 84 & up used different circuitry. Gary
  10. I get very impressive radiator fluid mileage, never have run out. Gary
  11. Look at this post. Earl has a kit to replace the parts in the drain valve. http://www.venturerider.org/classifieds/showproduct.php/product/1724/cat/6 Gary
  12. I realize this is your personal garage you are considering this for. OSHA does not allow PVC pipe to be used for compressed gas transmission though. If the time came when you sold the property, the system should be removed if you make the decision to install PVC. Gary
  13. Part will go out in tomorrow's mail. You should have it Friday. Gary
  14. Pinwall has several up for sale now. On the right side of the VR home page there is a block for recommended links, click on Pinwall Cycle Parts This takes you to their ebay site. In the Pinwall search window, type in Yamaha Venture Front Master Cylinder. $29.95 + $13.33 shipping. They are very good to deal with. Gary
  15. Which master cylinder ? There are 3 of them. Front Brake, Rear Brake & Clutch. I think I have one of each for an MKI. Gary
  16. Looking at the schematics for the two models there are some stumbling blocks electrically. The RSV Hazard switch is totally different than the first gens. Will not work without some major circuitry changes, if even this is possible. The clutch & brake lever switches appear to be incorporated on the RSV switch, they are separate entities on the 1st gens. Start switch circuitry is different. RSV does not have the headlight cutout circuit. This could be fixed by adding a relay to accomplish this feature on the 1st gens. On the working side of things, the Horn, Turn, Dimmer, PTT, Cruise Engage, Cruise Cancel & Engine Stop circuits appear to be the same. The connectors I am unsure about, but would almost certainly be different. So if one were to retain the existing hazard switch, brake & clutch lever switches and install a relay for the headlight cutout circuit, it is possible electrically. If the switch were able to mount up is another question that would need to be looked at by someone that has both models. Gary
  17. Renne, 1st gen cover is on it's way to you tomorrow. Gary
  18. Just got a tube of Moly 60 paste last week at local Honda bike dealer. 3 oz tube. Tube is only half full, which is noted on tube. $10 Bottle cap is for size reference. Gary
  19. I have the perfect man for her !! http://i1007.photobucket.com/albums/af193/gdingy101/fat_man_236wfi.jpg Gary
  20. Are these just for 2nd Gens? Gary
  21. First two pictures are the repair I made to a couple of broken tabs. I used 1/8" aluminum. Drilled holes and cutout center to match size of tab opening. Used epoxy to glue in place. Below is writeup from another site about fabricating the pin shown in last 3 pictures. Well, I'm not sure what you call them, but the things that stick out and grab the rubber donuts and hold the side panels in place. When I got my 87, all were broken but one. I got some aluminum screws, turned the head down to .390 on my drill press. I took masking tape, made a loop around the top and put some JB weld on top. In the drill press again to round it off. I drilled a hole where the tab was, put a nut on, put it thru and put a nut on the bottom. Eyeballed the height and tightened up. Gary
  22. I took paint stripper and removed all the paint & clear coat from these. Then sanded with 400 grit, then 800 grit sandpaper. The buffed on a 1HP buffer setup I have with a medium polish, then used Mothers for the final polish. I then taped off and powder coated centers of the risers. Getting the old clear coat off of any of these items is the hardest part. It has to be removed in order to get a decent luster back to the parts. I use an aircraft paint stripper available at Auto Zone that works very well. The clear coat turns opaque after time and no amount of polishing with it still on will work well. The picture of the stator cover shows the reflection from a piece of paper. This cover was oxidized and very dull before stripping, sanding & polishing. Also, the parts should be clear coated with a UV resistant paint afterwords. The untreated aluminum will start to oxidize with no covering. Engine covers require a high temp clear coat. Gary
  23. Here is a thread discussing the vacuum line to the pressure sensor. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=43906 Below is a picture of where it hooks up to the 83 carb. First is with hose on. Second one, I removed hose. This port is not on the 84 & up carbs, but the boss is still there in the casting. You could drill the carb out and epoxy in a hose barb for the hookup. Gary
  24. This is what it looks like so far. Gary http://i1007.photobucket.com/albums/af193/gdingy101/PICT5384as.jpg http://i1007.photobucket.com/albums/af193/gdingy101/PICT5382as.jpg http://i1007.photobucket.com/albums/af193/gdingy101/PICT5383as.jpg
  25. I have had brake fluid in the clutch master cylinder for a week now. There is no sign of any degradation of the epoxy cement. The watch crystal is still clear as glass. The epoxy slug also looked OK. It finally ate through the plastic lid I had it submerged in brake fluid. Gary
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