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dingy

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Everything posted by dingy

  1. dingy
    There is a sensor in the speedometer head that is used to read speed. This information is used by the cruise system & turn signals canceling unit. Possibly was damaged or wires got knocked off. Or one of the dash plugs is not making a good connection. Picture shows sensor wires directly above speedometer cable port. Gary
  2. dingy
    Here is a new listing on ebay for a set of 4 new carb joints for 1st gen bikes. Buy it now price of $79.99 + $15.50 shipping. These go for around $45 to $50 apiece from the discount suppliers. The clamps are not supplied and I doubt O-rings are either. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/YAMAHA-XVZ12-XVZ13-VENTURE-ROYALE-INTAKE-CARB-HOLDERS_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem588711e922QQitemZ380223220002QQptZMotorcyclesQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories Ebay item # is 380223220002 if link doesn't work. Gary
  3. dingy
    I'm not sure if extra ground really helps or not. It was kind of a feel good thing I did. I had an extra ground cable off of my parts bike I cut and soldered a new connection on the end. I haven't really got a chance to try this out much. The 83 mounts are ribbed. They only have about 50% contact area to the frame. Its got solid mounts now thanks to SGN. Gary
  4. dingy
    These were just a supplement to the existing path to ground. They probably alone would not be enough to carry the full starter current. It's sort of cramped in there, but I think you could add some more. I would have liked to use larger wires but the eyelet that the screw goes through is way to large on #12 connectors for the size of screw I wanted to use. A single 14 gauge wire has a safety rating of 32 amps. I doubled that by using two runs of wire. The safety rating is probably 60 to 70 % of actual carrying capacity This is an extremely short run which will help increase that somewhat. Also it is basically a fail safe type of application, worst case it fries and then is in an enclosed steel container, already shorted to ground. Gary
  5. dingy
    No, it just floats in there. The tabs are what is used to supply the ground path. There is no 'hard' connection to ground. Gary
  6. dingy
    I am surprised you could get enough slack in cam chains to lift cams without removing tensioners. The tensioner body has a ratcheting mechanism that will not return to allow slack unless the prawl on the tensioner body is depressed. This requires removal of the entire tensioner. The spring only serves to press the tensioner rod in, it should not release on its own. Gary http://i1007.photobucket.com/albums/af193/gdingy101/tensioner.jpg
  7. dingy
    Loosening the upper banjo bolt did allow partial pressure to be developed. Still not enough though. I a going to let it set a while to let mall bubbles gather together I don't have the hydraulic anti dives any more, went to electric. So t least don't have o mess with them. Gay
  8. dingy
    I reordered some more steering head wrenches if anyone is interested. I had a price increase from my vendor, the cost is now $23.00. Shipping included. There is an ad in classifieds, or the info is here to order. See top post for details. Gary
  9. dingy
    I am having the same exact problem. Rebuilt master, calipers & new S.S. lines. De-linked brakes with an RSV splitter. Have pulled master apart and it is rebuilt correctly, no nicks in seals & bore is fine. Large and small hole in master are open. I have speed bleeders on it. Have tried a mighty vac and am able to pull fluid through calipers. Also made a plate for top of master cylinder with a fitting in it and tried to pressurize master to push fluid through with mighty vac. But no real pressure being developed at master cylinder. I will try loosening upper banjo bolt and see if this works. If this doesn't work I am going to put standard bleeders back in and see if I can get higher flow rate than with speed bleeders in an effort to pull air that must be in there through. Did rear brake & clutch master & slaves and they are fine. I almost wish I were bald, I wouldn't be pulling my hair out over this one. Gary
  10. dingy
    I just replaced the thermostat in my 1983 bike with a automotive style unit. Murray Plus+, P/N 3758, I bought it at O'Reilly parts store. www.oreillyauto.com This was a 180 degree unit. It came with a rubber ring around flange that needed to be removed to fit into housing, otherwise it was a perfect fit. Price was $4.99. Gary
  11. dingy

    Tach Mount

    dingy replied to Bubber's topic in Watering Hole

    Looks good Steve. Gary
  12. dingy
    Auto Zone, Advance, O'Rielys should all have them. Also Home Depot or Lowes I think they are a 1/4-28 thread. You might consider putting angled ones on the very front set of bushings. The write up in the Tech section only shows 5 bushings. I put six in mine. They are a tight fit to get a grease gun on with straight fittings. Angle them towards the rear. On the front set of bushings I put one in the center of each fiber bushing. I also drilled a 1/8" hole through both sides of the metal sleeve that rides inside of the bushing to allow the grease to flow into the area inside the metal sleeve. This is the wearing surface and it's the area the grease is needed. The hole in the metal sleeve was drilled at the same point that the fiber bushing is drilled. I then took a dremel tool with a small cutoff blade and made a small groove all around the fiber bushing at the point where the grease zert comes into it. This allows the grease to flow around the fiber bushing and pass through the hole I drilled in the metal sleeve. Gary
  13. dingy
    Below is a thread that also references the main thread about the grease zerts for the rear arms. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=45412 I would much rather use the shock with the spring on it. The other shock was only used on the 83 models I think. Where is the play at you are referring to? Basically, any play in any of the rear end is not a good thing though. Gary
  14. dingy
    You should be able to ground the sensor lead and get a full deflection on the dash gauge. The sensor is a temperature controlled variable resistor inside. Unplug the wire that the green arrow is pointing to in the picture I posted above, and ground it. I just tried this on mine and it did give a full hot needle deflection on the gauge. If you verify that circuit works, then it is most likely a bad sensor. Also verify that the ground to the aluminum casting the sensor is screwed into is in fact grounded. This is the wire pointed to by the Blue arrow. It must have this ground wire attached and functioning. The casting is isolated from ground due to the hose connections. The ground on the fan circuit is unrelated to the Temp sender circuit. Gary
  15. dingy
    Here is a closeup of thermostat and fan connections. Red arrow is the fan motor switch. Green arrow is the temp gauge connector. Blue arrow is ground connection for temp gauge circuit Also, there is a ground wire that attaches to this casting that is on top of the unit, just behind the white plug that is hanging there. Both the ground & temp gauge are Butt connectors. Wire to temp gauge on my 88 is Green/Red tracer. Picture is with the right side inner & outer fairings removed. Gary http://i1007.photobucket.com/albums/af193/gdingy101/PICT5619s.jpg
  16. dingy
    I added running lights to the turn signals on my 83 Venture. Now when the key is on I have both turn signals are illuminated along with the two bulbs in the tail light housing. I purchased two new light bases at Auto Zone for about $4.00 each. These are dual filament bases that use an 1157 bulb. [ATTACH]43678[/ATTACH] I used a dremel cut off wheel to remove the two spot welds that hold the base into the reflector housing and removed old single contact base. I lined the filaments up vertically on the bulb base prior to soldering [ATTACH]43682[/ATTACH] New base was a good fit into reflector housing. I then used a high wattage soldering gun to solder the new base to the reflector housing. I also attached a ground wire to bulb base at one of the solder points. The light was reattached to the bike. I spliced the new ground wire and the turn signal wire into the existing wires for the old base. The wire for the low wattage side on the new base was tapped into the tail light wire at the pigtail. The existing lenses for the rear turn signals are amber color. I wanted to have the lenses match the tail light which is red. I used Rit Scarlet clothes dye to accomplish the color change. This was available at local grocery store. [ATTACH]43681[/ATTACH] I put about 1 tablespoon of the dye into an old pan with about 2 quarts of water and boiled the lenses for about 15 minutes (checking often). The lenses are now a very close match to the tail light color. [ATTACH]43679[/ATTACH] [ATTACH]43680[/ATTACH] There is also a spray paint available for changing the color of lenses but I couldn't find it locally. Gary
  17. dingy
    If you don't have the chrome rear end that mounts the trailer hitch it's fairly easy. Remove the rear fender and the tire will come right out. There are two small bolts on inside top of fender and two more where the black inner side bag rails are. Gary
  18. dingy
    Wayne, Could you check to see if you have a shim under the ring gear, between the housing & ring gear. Also can you measure the thickness of the thrust washer that is on the ring gear hub, its about 1 1/2" in dia.. It sits around the hub protrusion into the main housing. It will be around 3/32" thick. There are increments of these two shims available. I have an FJR rear end that is locking up when I torque the wheel down and I think it might need different shims. If you don't need these I would be interested in them. Gary
  19. dingy
    I recall a post about someone had used a flat style automotive air filter on a first gen. Does anyone know where that post would be, I can't locate it. I would like to try shortening my air box enough to allow the installation of the CLASS control head in the tank cover. I have a spare air box I could experiment with. Gary
  20. dingy
    I would have to admit that getting maximum MPG's is not real high on my priority list. 35 to 40 MPG and I will be happy. Gary
  21. dingy
    Squeeze gave me a suggestion of 140 to start with. Gary
  22. dingy
    Have you re jetted carbs ? I used my 1200 - 83 bank of carbs and rejetted main jet to a 140 vs 125 in stock 1300 venture. 117.5 in stock 1200. Plugged air inlet port above throttle plate on #2 carb. I am going to use a venture TCI from an 86 initially. Haven't ridden it yet though. PM me about springs if you want them. I got them to put into a set of 1300 heads, but then I got a set of Vmax heads from a 1997 bike with low miles for it. Gary http://i1007.photobucket.com/albums/af193/gdingy101/PICT5587s.jpg
  23. dingy
    I have an extra set of Vmax springs if you are interested. I think 30 HP more with cams is a little much. 1200 cc Vmax with Vboost, carbs and heads is 145 HP. Gary
  24. dingy
    The valves and springs are different. O.D. of intake valves is 1.197" on Vmax compared to 1.138" on Venture O.D. of exhaust valves is 0.980" intake on Vmax compared to 0.941" on Venture The stem is .2156" on Vmax compared to 0.2352" on Venture, allowing a slightly larger air flow path. Springs are stiffer on Vmax, helping allow higher rpm redline. Gary
  25. dingy
    I just looked at his Ebay profile and he has been active on there as recent as 4/1/10. Gary
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