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dingy

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Everything posted by dingy

  1. dingy
    Jason, Where did you get the drain plug at? Gary
  2. dingy
    You could accomplish the High/Low beam function with a single DPDT relay. This relay will have 87 & 87A contacts. This would eliminate the CMU and the reserve lighting unit from circuitry. Circuit is shown in attached PDF. This circuit will not however address CMU warnings, or need to feed power to CMU. I just sketched it up to show head light circuit. Gary
  3. dingy
    This is what I have found with the operation of a working system on an 1988 wiring setup. I have just verified this information on my bike. I have independent spade lug terminals hooking up to the headlight plug in the wiring harness,due to my projector headlights, so it is easy to simulate burnt out bulb conditions. The reserve lighting unit is located on the right side of the headlight unit. When the dimmer switch is set to LOW and low beam lamp is not functioning, the reserve unit illuminates the high beam lamp at a reduced voltage, this keeps from blinding oncoming traffic. The dash white indicator light "Headlamp" is illuminated. CMU Headlight icon is displayed. When the dimmer switch is set to LOW and High beam lamp is not functioning. The dash white indicator light "Headlamp" is not illuminated. CMU Headlight icon is displayed. When the dimmer switch is set to HIGH and High beam lamp is not functioning, the reserve unit illuminates the low beam lamp at a near normal voltage. The dash white indicator light "Headlamp" is illuminated. CMU Headlight icon is displayed. The "High beam" indicator is lit. When the dimmer switch is set to HIGH and Low beam lamp is not functioning. The dash white indicator light "Headlamp" is not illuminated. CMU Headlight icon is displayed. The "High beam" indicator is lit. When both lights are not functioning, only the CMU icon is displayed when Low beam is selected. When HIGH beam is selected, the dash white indicator light "Headlamp" is illuminated. CMU Headlight icon is displayed. And the "High beam" indicator is lit. Assuming the wiring diagrams are correct, the high and low beam run through the CMU. There is an input circuit and an output circuit for both the high and low beams. The reserve lighting unit is where the input wire from the headlight fuse goes first. I am guessing that the current on this wire is used to determine if the lamps are lit or not. Last paragraphs are based on this assumption. If the Low beam is selected at the dimmer switch, a positive voltage is sent to the CMU, which then passes that voltage back to the headlamp. If headlamp is burning, reserve lighting unit does nothing. It senses normal current on feed wire, and it is getting voltage on its low side input. If the High beam is selected at the dimmer switch, a positive voltage is sent to the CMU, which then passes that voltage back to the headlamp. If headlamp is NOT burning, reserve lighting unit senses very low current on feed wire (some current consumed in CMU), and it is getting voltage on its low side input. The reserve lighting unit then outputs reduced positive voltage on the High beam circuit, thus illuminating High beam and signaling CMU that low beam filimant is burnt out. If the High beam is selected at the dimmer switch, a positive voltage is sent to the CMU, which then passes that voltage back to the headlamp. If headlamp is lit, reserve lighting unit lights the High beam indicator lamp. It senses normal current on feed wire, and it is getting voltage on its high side input. If it is not lit, the reserve lighting unit outputs positive voltage on the low beam circuit, thus illuminating low beam and signaling CMU that high beam filament is burnt out. Gary
  4. dingy
    I have that CD, just never watched it that far. I see what he is doing. Thanks, Gary
  5. dingy
    Could you get me a copy of the instructions some how. It looks like they are drilling into the bolt below the water pump and connecting into an oil pressure port there. [ATTACH]44170[/ATTACH] [ATTACH]44171[/ATTACH] gary@dinges.com Thanks Gary
  6. dingy
    This is a way to isolate whether problem is in CMU or reserve lighting unit. I just tried this on mine and it works. Disconnect the reserve lighting unit from wiring harness. It's an 8 pin connector going into a black rubber covered rectangular box. About 4" long, 2" wide and little over an 1" thick. Looking at the male end of connector, the one attached to wiring harness, there is a Blue wire with a White tracer on it. If you temporarily attach a jumper from positive battery to this wire, the head light should work if the problem is in reserve unit or the feed wire coming out of fuse for headlight. If it acts the same, then problem is in CMU. Also check that headlight fuse clips are not weak. Pull on headlight fuse and see if there is good contact to fuse. This is a common problem with the fuse blocks on these bikes. The metal clips to the fuse gets weak and doesn't make good contact. Another place could be in the start switch. The circuit for head light runs through start button, so head light goes out when bike is cranking. Here is link to the schematics for these bikes. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/sh...ad.php?t=42384 Gary
  7. dingy
    Carl, That wouldn't be a problem if I knew it was normal. I don't scare that easy. Gary
  8. dingy
    Here is a link to re-soldering the connections in the CMU. I just did a similar repair to my CLASS system controller and that fixed it. I have a spare unit out of my 83 head I could lend you if you aren't comfy doing this. I had a problem with the head lights also on bike before its rebirthing this winter. My solution was to bypass the CMU at that point in time. I added a relay connected to the dimmer switch that directly switched hi-lo beam. I seemed to remember thinking the problem was in the reserve lighting unit. So I am not a 100% sure my CMU would correct your problem. I could re-solder terminals on yours. I would have no way of testing it though. I put an 88 wiring harness and instrument cluster in mine and they have completely different wiring hookups. I have a couple of spare reserve lighting units also. PM me. Gary
  9. dingy
    Sent email to wrong person, OPPS! Look at link below, it has an exploded view of rear suspension. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=1057&highlight=swing+grease+zerks Gary
  10. dingy
    Has anyone put a mechanical oil gauge on a 1st gen? Where would be a good place to tap into a oil feed location. I am looking at tapping into the line that comes out of the 'Twinkie' and runs to each cylinder head. Any better suggestion? Gary
  11. dingy
    See this link. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=515 Sent you an email with some other pictures. Gary
  12. dingy
    I am going to go out on a limb here and recommend you do not do what Skydoc said in regards to the impact driver. Attached is a picture of the clutch slave cylinder. On the right side is the bleeder screw setting on the long skinny arm. This arm is about 1/2" square and has a hole through it. It is about 1 7/8" long. Aluminum casting. If you hit down on this with a hand impact driver and a hammer with enough force to break bleeder loose, I will put some serious money on the next thing you will be doing is fishing the broken end of that casting out of the bottom of the bike. My suggestion would be to get a 10 mm, 6 point socket. Attach this to a long handle ratchet and somewhat softly, yet firmly, bump the ratchet handle with a hammer. The shock MIGHT loosen the bleeder screw. As best you can hold the socket with free hand to try to reduce the overall rotational twisting action. Do this after letting the bleeder soak in some penetrating oil. I am not an official mechanic, mind you. But I did stay at a Holiday Inn a couple of times. Gary [ATTACH]44065[/ATTACH]
  13. dingy
    That is a front fender mount bracket for the brake lines, I think. There is on on each side of the fenders at the point where it mounts to forks. It sets inside of the fender. Gary
  14. dingy
    Attached is a PDF I made for the RSV's showing a trailer wiring hook up. 1st gen's will be the same as far a tying into lights. Gary
  15. dingy
    The butterfly bracket sounds like the one that holds the right and left fairing together at the bottom, under the head light. This is just a guess with out seeing it though. Gary
  16. dingy
    They are a caged taper roller bearing. Will stay intact. Link to steering head adjusting wrench. (shameless plug) http://www.venturerider.org/classifieds/showproduct.php?product=2747&title=steering-head-bearing-nut-wrench&cat=6 Gary
  17. dingy
    Both units have been sold. Gary
  18. dingy
    $20 each plus the actual shipping costs. These came out of a 1988 model. Gary
  19. dingy
    The wire coming out of the battery is the acid level sensor. This is tied to a warning icon on the instrument cluster. Try WD-40 or some type of rust buster on the bleeder screw. It's a pain in the rear if you break it off. What tune is it humming?? There are some schematics in the tech section relating to the starting circuits on the bike. Below is the link. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=42722 Clutch, side stand, neutral, engine stop switches all involved. Gary
  20. dingy
    A few posts have been made in the past about the workings of the fuel tank level sender & the petcock. I pulled these parts out of my spare gas tank and took some pictures of them to show how they work for interested members Picture of the sender unit as it came out of the tank. Picture of sender with metal cover removed. The tabs do not have to be bent to remove metal cover. Just spring sides of cover out slightly and cover will slide back. Close up of the wire wound resistor. The metal wiper contact is at middle position in photo. In this view float is all the way down, at the empty position, metal slider contact is now positioned at bottom of wire wound resistor. View of petcock showing adjust lever. View showing the two screens that go into to the tank. The longer pickup tube is for the regular selection. The shorter tube is for the reserve side. Gary
  21. dingy
    I set just the metal cap on mine, no screws or rubber gasket. It did help. Now just need to reset exhaust valves. Don't think I am going to paint it right away, I want to rid this beast some. Gary
  22. dingy
    Dan's method did help my brake issue. First you will need to bleed the clutch normally though to get the majority of air out. The bleeder screw is on left side of bike above foot peg. It's under a square black rubber cover, about an 1 1/2" square. In my case, the clutch was easy to bleed. Two person job to do this. Gary
  23. dingy
    I have gotten fairly decent lever pull now. I have tied the lever back to the throttle grip with a zip tie for several days now. Released it in morning and retied at night. But, I can still pull the lever all the way back to the throttle rubber, but with decent pressure. Is this normal with the MKII brakes. I had MKI brakes prior, and I really don't recall how far back the lever came. Could someone check theirs for me please? It's just frustrating with the front brakes, the rear brake & clutch were also rebuilt and they bled first time. Gary
  24. dingy
    The bad diaphragms I have seen develop very small pin holes around the outer edge. Very hard to see unless a bright light is directly behind diaphragm. Gary
  25. dingy
    Every time I get another package in the mail, the divorce gets a little closer. She is even getting a set of passenger floorboards, I thought that would keep her happy, but oh no. Gary
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