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dingy

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Everything posted by dingy

  1. dingy
    There is a collector that just went up on ebay for $99, free shipping http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1987-87-Yamaha-Venture-Royale-1300-Exhaust-Collector-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem1e5ba39f0bQQitemZ130386468619QQptZMotorcyclesQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories Item # 130386468619 Gary
  2. dingy
    The wire wound resistor for the level sensor probably has a break in it. See picture for idea what it look like. Gary
  3. dingy
    Puppy, I cleaned the contacts already in the one I sent you. Gary
  4. dingy
    I just replaced the thermostat in my 1983 bike with a automotive style unit. Murray Plus+, P/N 3758, I bought it at O'Reilly parts store. www.oreillyauto.com This was a 180 degree unit. It came with a rubber ring around flange that needed to be removed to fit into housing, otherwise it was a perfect fit. Price was $4.99. Gary
  5. dingy
    A couple of suggestions. Use either at your discretion and risk. Take a 1/8" drill and drill two holes in the cap. Makes these holes as close to center as you can, but still get into enough metal so they can stand rotational torque. You do not want drill to cut into threaded area of fork tube. You will almost for sure cut into O-ring, but these can be obtained at a hardware store, or I have some new ones in a kit I got at Harbor Freight and I can send you one. Then take a piece of steel bar, probably 3/8" thick at least, 18" or so long and an inch wide. Drill a matching pair of holes in the steel bar the same distance apart as the two holes in cap. Place two hardened dowels through holes in bar and into holes in cap. Use bar as wrench to try and unscrew cap. Tricky part will be getting holes correct distance apart in bar to match cap. Might be easier to determine distance between holes needed in cap, then drill bar first. Then match drill cap using bar as template. A couple of drill bits the same size as holes drilled could possibly be used as dowel pins. Since you have one cap off, look at it to see how deep to drill and offset of holes. Second possibility is to use dremel type cutoff wheel and cut notch in cap towards O.D. You will need a wide, and at least an 1/8" deep slot. Then take dull chisel and try to drift cap out using hammer. These are just a couple of ways that come to mind. I have a spare fork tube if all else fails. I also have a spare cap. Gary
  6. dingy
    It is the bolt that attaches the brake line to the master cylinder in this case. Banjo bolts are used at the ends of brake & clutch lines. They have a hole center drilled and then a mating hole cross drilled in shaft of threads to permit fluid to flow through them. Gary
  7. dingy
    Not unless you are Houdini. Screws are hard to get out of bowl covers sometimes with the carb rack split and setting on bench. Gary
  8. dingy
    Attached are a couple of pictures of a fix I did to tabs on bottom of my side panel. Used 1/8" aluminum. Drilled two holes on either end. Connected two holes with hacksaw. Cut a slot into center to match pin. Epoxied into place. They have worked for a couple of years now. Gary
  9. dingy
    I believe all the MKI seals are the same, maybe even the MKII. I just put a set of seals I had ordered for my 83 forks into a set of 86 forks and they are working fine. Gary
  10. dingy
    I just went through this with my front brakes. Yammer told me to zip tie lever back to throttle over night. Loosen master cylinder cap to allow air flow. Also it helped me to burp the banjo bolt at the top by master cylinder. Had to do this about three nights, but now I got a handful of brakes. Gary
  11. dingy
    Sometimes there is a punch mark on the end of the shaft where the shift lever attaches. Line up this punch mark with the slot in the shift lever. Note the orientation of lever is towards bottom. It is possible to install towards top, but shift pattern is reversed. Don't ask me how I know this. Gary
  12. dingy

    brakes?

    dingy replied to oldgoat's topic in Watering Hole

    There are two white with black tracer wires coming from front master cylinder that plug into wire harness behind headlight. As I recall you have been in there working. If you dislodged one of these connections icon will be on. They both have 'Bullet' style connectors, Run up to master in their own cable. Same thing on rear master as well, but that one ties into harness near the brake light switch on right side of bike, in front of master cylinder. Connection is along frame down tube. I think it might be your front one. Gary
  13. dingy
    http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=44037&highlight=posting+picture OK, so I forgot to CTRL-V the link. Gary
  14. dingy
    It's not getting painted till this fall though. I am riding it now, not sanding it. Gary
  15. dingy

    Don's md

    dingy replied to ronhenry4's topic in Watering Hole

    I am 5 miles west of the I-71 and US 30 interchange. Gary
  16. dingy
    Look at my second post in the thread below. It details how to upload. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=44037&highlight=posting+picture After you run through the manage attachments screen and upload 10 pictures, you can go back and upload another ten, and another, to the same thread. Gary
  17. dingy

    Don's md

    dingy replied to ronhenry4's topic in Watering Hole

    I will be going up from Mansfield. Located halfway between Cleveland and Columbus. What time would you be in this area? Gary
  18. dingy
    The long side panel, the one that covers the carbs & gas tank does not screw or attach at top. There are two short rubber bumpers at the top. It has a snap clip at rear, one at bottom, or a rubber strap depending on year. And two pins at front leading edge. Hope I am showing correct piece. If not a picture would help. Gary
  19. dingy
    First picture shows attachment of two parts. The front cross piece under the radiator has a clip nut on each end. The leg coming down from the rear of the main fairing that turns forward and joins this piece has a hole in bottom of it. Phillips head screw attaches these two together on each side. Rearward piece snaps into the connector shown in second picture. Gary
  20. dingy
    Somebody send a snow blower down to Hell. Did Mr. Maytag actually say he wanted to get a 1st gen? Another convert. Gary
  21. dingy
    I just checked the shock I took off m 83. The the isolator and bushing seem bonded together in it as well. Gary
  22. dingy
    Took the bike out for its first decent run since its re-birthing this winter. Bike was naked, not me, everyone can breath now. No plastic on bike except front and rear fenders. I really think this all has been worth it. Running at about 50mph in third and twist the throttle open and I had to grab grips harder it had so much acceleration. Revs up to about 8500 RPM with out pushing hard, hit almost 9000 once with no sign of valve float. Front brakes are absolutely no problem, Rear brake didn't lock up, which is good. Put about a 1/3 of a can of seafoam in it, and rode about 30 miles. Carbs are close, but haven't been synced yet. Occasional pop when decelerating. Might be running a little rich, exhaust pipes where sort of soft black. Clutch is a handful with the two diaphragm springs in it. No leaks anywhere. All the electrical stuff is working. Gary [ATTACH]44240[/ATTACH]
  23. dingy
    Both sensors are on right hand side of bike, about 6" rearward of radiator cap. Below is a picture of what they look like on a bike with all plastic removed. Green arrow is temp gauge connector. Blue arrow is ground for temp gauge circuit Red arrow is fan switch. The fan circuit is independent of temp gauge circuit, they do not share the ground. Gary
  24. dingy
    If you 'bypass' the tilt sensor then the bike should not run, this is normal. The tilt sensor is a roller ball switch that makes a contact to ground at some predetermined angle and shuts down the ignitor unit. The switch has a normally open contact that closes when tilted. Here is a link to simplified RSV circuit. http://www.venturerider.org/wiring/99-09%20Yamaha%20Royal%20Star%20Venture%20Simplified%20Circuit%20Diagram%20Rev%20B.pdf Tilt (Fall Over on schematic) is in upper right quadrant. Gary
  25. dingy
    Look at my third post in this thread for description of reserve light operation. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=47671 Headlight fuse and start switch are already in circuit I showed above. Relays will probably already be too high of resistance to activate warnings. What you need is current flow to cancel warning. This is lower resistance. The relay draws about 1/4 amp, 55 watt bulb would be around 5 amps. Gary
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