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dingy

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  1. dingy
    Look at my next to last post. I linked it there for you. Gary
  2. dingy
    Three different situations. Three different responses. Your head light brightens as you increase the RPM's and the stator starts putting out more amperage. Look at next to last post in this thread for explanation. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=42853 The slow cranking is possibly due to a poor starter ground path. Also increasing battery cables can help. Look at next post for starter ground fix. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=46890 Last problem dealing with class system could be cold solder joints in control head. Look at this link for fix. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=493 Gary
  3. dingy
    Curtis, Below is link to switch cleaning Evan mentioned. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=42433 I didn't suggest this in my earlier post because you said in your post you had opened the switch. My bad. Gary
  4. dingy
    If there is nothing behind the bolt, meaning you can drill all the way through, here is an idea. As previously suggested, drill a hole as close to center as possible, which you already have done obviously. Enlarge this hole to as big as possible without engaging tapped threads. I have successfully used a very small 3 corner file, to the file a notch down through the bolt portion of the threads. Do this in two places about 90 degrees apart. Then with a small chisel, knock out the smaller piece. Then the remaining 270 degree piece can be bent in a little to loosen and work it out. This method will cause problems if the bolt is of a sealing nature, because it will leak through the 2 notches that are cut into tapped hole. But otherwise it is a workable solution upon occasion. Gary
  5. dingy
    Curtis, Are you getting any icons on the cluster display? Does the display cycle through all icons when you turn the key switch on ? Also check the fuse and verify that the fuse holder is tightly griping the fuse. Sometimes the holders deteriorate. There could be enough contact there to read voltage, but not enough to pass sufficient current to light bulb. Do you have a voltage reading at the headlight bulb connector ? If you unplug the headlight, you should then get a warning on the cluster display. Post what you find, and I can try to narrow it down further. How did fuel gauge end up? Gary
  6. dingy
    Below is a link to a source for a number of components & relays. http://www.parts-express.com/home.cfm Very fast shipping & great prices. Gary
  7. dingy
    This is in response to snaggletooth's post earlier about his side stand bolt breaking. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?threadid=48307 I started a new thread so people might look at it that had already viewed his. As was noted in previous post, the undercut on the shoulder bolt is deep. The threads are 10 mm on the shoulder bolt and the undercut is about 7.90 mm. This is about 20% of the bolts threaded diameter that has been removed. The shoulder portion of the bolt is 12 mm. I used a grade 10.9, 12 mm x 1.75 mm x 60 mm long partially threaded hex head bolt, a grade 10.9 hex head nut and a standard grade jam nut (hardware didn't have grade 10.9 jam nuts).Grade 10.9 metric is very close to an imperial grade 8. The hardware store had 12 mm x 1.50 mm bolts, but the unthreaded portion was a smaller diameter than the 1.75 mm. I would have rather had the finer threads. I used the 60 mm length because the unthreaded portion of this bolt was just the length that was required to pass through the front and back wings of the side stand. I did not want threads in that area, due to the threads would quickly wear down in diameter and increase play in side stand. The shoulder on the hex bolt measured 11.50 mm, just slightly smaller than the existing shoulder bolt by about .005". I cut the shoulder bolt to roughly 45 mm (1.75") long. Then drilled out the threaded portion of the kickstand with a 15/32" drill. This gave a very snug fit for the unthreaded portion of the new bolt. The drilled hole in the back wing is still a smaller diameter than the existing hole in the front wing of the side stand, so I do not feel it weakened the overall assembly. Replaced the side stand. I used blue loctite on threads. Tightened hardened hex bolt up until there was minimal play in the end of side stand, then ran jam nut up against hex nut. Cost was under $5.00 and took less than an hour including parts run. Comparison of new bolt & existing shoulder bolt. Back wing of side stand prior to drilling Stack-up of new fasteners after cutting hex bolt to length. Picture of side stand prior to spring being reinstalled. Gary
  8. dingy
    Attached is a write up I did describing relays & wiring as it pertains to our bikes. On the last two pages there are two schematics for bypassing most of the current that is running through the main switch on an RSV. One is a before & second is an after version. File is 1.5 meg in size. Gary
  9. dingy
    These fuses are only energized when key is in RUN position on an RSV. I don't have the RSTD schematic. But they should be some what similar as far as fuse functions. You could tap of off any of them to energize a relay coil. Ignition Cruise Fan Carb Heater Signal Gary
  10. dingy
    Then, no it is not a clearance engine. Gary
  11. dingy
    Is it only blowing when you use lighter, or is it blowing when lighter has not been used. If only when lighter has been used, possibly a bad element in lighter. If lighter has not been used, then find the short to ground in the positive lead between the fuse and the lighter plug. 30 amps is a bunch of current. That is more than the equivalent of 7 headlights worth of current It would almost have to be a short if you are using this outlet to power a GPS or other electronic device. Gary
  12. dingy
    WTF is a clearance engine ? There is a lot of clearance between the back end of a 1st gen and the front end of a 2nd gen when racing I guess. Gary
  13. dingy
    I am not saying your wrong Brad, but I just had an engine apart and when I tried to even re-shim valves without an official valve tool, I had to release the cam tensioner in order to get enough slack in the chain. The purpose of the tensioner is to remove all the slack so there is no slop in chain. The tensioner is a one way ratcheting mechanism, it has to be pulled out of the engine in order to release the tensioner rod holding prawl. Even if he unbolted the gear from the cam, as soon as there is any slack in cam chain the tensioner is going to extend via its spring, then making it impossible to reattach gear. Just my humble opinion, but I did stay in a Holiday Inn a couple of times. Gary
  14. dingy
    The top pair of plugs in the first image attached is from a bike without a CLASS system (Computer Leveling Air Suspension System). Note the connector on the top right is a 2 pin plug. The bottom pair of plugs in the first image is from a bike with a CLASS system. Note the connector on the bottom right is a 3 pin plug. This extra pin is to power the class system when key switch is in ACC position. Second image attached is of the contact plate on the set with CLASS. This contact plate and wires can be swapped between key units. I just did this on my bike. I wanted to keep the same keying, but had swapped wiring harness's & added a CLASS system during the rebuild this winter. Gary
  15. dingy
    Please say that you cranked engine over by hand through several revolutions first !! Gary
  16. dingy
    It will if the 84 that it is coming out of had the class system. The class system equipped bikes have a 3 conductor plug for the 'auxiliary' wires. Non class bikes have a 2 conductor plug. You can make the switch work either way, but you would need to dis-assemble the bottom and swap out the contact plate. The internals are the same. I can send you pictures if you get the switch and need to modify it. The tumblers can be swapped out by a locksmith fairly easily, I believe. To do it yourself you would need the key to pull the tumbler cartridge out. There is a small ball & spring in there that is a pain to put back in. Gary
  17. dingy
    Can you reach rear cam tensioner. You will need to remove it, Then reset cams, Then reinstall tensioner. It sets between the rear exhaust headers. If you can get tensioner out, it is doable. Also be careful when reinstalling tensioner. I had one of the wings break of on my front head causing an initial oil leak. Torque down by going back and forth several times. Might also need a new gasket for tensioner. I ended up making one. Gary
  18. dingy
    If you used MKII floor boards, It seems you would have had to do something to the rear exhaust mount. In the picture attached to this post, the large rear hole on the frame mounted foot board piece is where the mount for the muffler should have been. It does not line up though with the stock MKI mufflers. Not saying yours didn't work, just that mine needed the rear mount modified. The new hanger can be seen behind the black part of the floor board. Gary
  19. dingy
    These are shown on an 83 now. Gary
  20. dingy
    It has a LOT more acceleration. I can pop the front end up fairly easy now. Red line is now close to 9000 RPM's. Seems like I need to upshift when I am in 5th though due to FJR rear end, it will take a little getting used to the higher cruising RPM's. As far as the brakes, I am happy at this point. The rear will not lock up on me which is good in my opinion. The fronts will lock up, which could not be good, but will be same as bikes I have always rode. I also made a revision inside of the wiring harness to keep the electric anti dives from engaging when only the rear brake is used. I have heard the electric A/D's are energy hogs. Didn't figure I needed them when I was only using rear braking. This way, if I am in traffic, I can use the rear brake and not have the drain on the electrical system. Gary
  21. dingy
    Besides what Bkuhr said, another guess could be exhaust & intake cams swapped. Gary
  22. dingy
    Here is a link to a set in the classifieds. They are missing one rubber & need serious cleaning / sand blasting. The ones I posted pictures of above didn't look much better though in the beginning. http://www.venturerider.org/classifieds/showproduct.php?product=2685&title=rear-footboards-mkii-1st-gen-venture&cat=6 Gary
  23. dingy
    My re born 83 had its coming out party today. It is finally all back together. There are parts from 3 different decades on this bike. It will be a different color next spring. Probably a bright blue or yellow. Thanks to everyone that contributed knowledge and parts to get this done. Below is a list of the major improvements this winter and a few pictures of it. 1300 engine, 1988, 28,000 miles Vmax Heads, 1997, 19,000 miles FJR rear end, 2004, 7,000 miles MKII front forks, 1986 MKII brake calipers & rotors - front & rear MKII brake master cylinders - rebuilt Delinked brakes Stainless steel brake lines Speed bleeders Kevlar brake pads Electric Anti Dives – only operate on front brake Rebuilt clutch master & slave cylinders Stainless steel clutch line set Two diaphragm springs in clutch Replaced half clutch plate with full plate Starter ground upgrade 8mm ignition wires Iridium spark plugs K&N air filter Crankcase air breather filter Re-jetted mains to 140 Shimmed needle jets to .072” Updated rear shock to one with spring Grease fittings added to shock linkage Halogen Dual Projector Headlights Added tail light bulbs to rear turn signals Cruise control Class system Royale instrument cluster 1988 wiring harness Changed radio to AM/FM CD player 3 way speakers in front -Tweeters in saddle bags Shorty antenna Relocated TCI to radio compartment Radar detector & GPS mounts Bikini side covers Polished case covers S.S. bolt set for side covers Passenger foot boards Moved backrest rearward 2” Powder coating Pictures today. Started out as this. Went down to this. Donor of lower engine and brakes.
  24. dingy
    Attached are a couple of pictures of a set of 86-93 rear floorboards. These require a very minor mod to the rear exhaust mounting. Gary
  25. dingy
    Click on the 'Listen.M3u' download again. It restarted for me. Gary
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