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dingy

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Everything posted by dingy

  1. This is going to be a tough one. Gary
  2. While your in there change the rear end oil. There is a magnet on the drain plug so you can see if there is excessive metal shavings. Service manual says very small amount of shavings are normal. Also look at rear wheel bearings. By only making noise when engine braking & rotor braking the rear end has pressure exerted on both sides. Braking with one or the other exerts more pressure on one side or the other. So with the equal braking it could be the bearings having an issue. Not that lubing the shaft & splines is a bad idea, but I would think shaft especially would show noise all the time. Hub splines may be culprit, but I don't see that contact point generating a grinding noise. Gary
  3. I still have the box they came in, have my old ones in there. Any better than this and I would have to get them for you myself !! RS400 is model #. Gary
  4. Also check clutch switch. The front, rear brakes & clutch switch will shut cruise down or not allow it to engage. Clutch switch has no adjustment, but front & rear brake do. Easiest way to check brake is to turn key on a wiggle levers & see if brake light comes on to easy. Clutch switch could have popped back out of retainer also. Does starter crank with bike in gear with clutch released & side stand up? If it does then clutch switch has issues. Gary
  5. 4" speakers. Wal Mart has a decent set for under $30. Cones are waterproof. Speakers are 3 way's. Gary
  6. They are still putting a cassette player in the RSV's last I heard. Gary
  7. dingy

    Fleas

    mraf, You have a PM. Gary
  8. It was a year and a half ago he posted this, C3PO didn't have the pygmies to help him then !! Gary
  9. I am up for it if price is right. I had mine done at the local bar, they brought in a portable dyno & charged $20 Gary
  10. My almost stock 1983 - 1200 (before rebuild) dyno'ed at 81.65 HP Bike had a K&N air filter & exhausts were opened up a little. That was all it had. Carbs at time were not in great setting condition & valves were off. Bike had about 36,000 on it at the time. I'm hoping for 110 to 120 hp this year. Out of about 50 or so bikes I was the highest in the below 1200 cc & 1200-1599 cc A Vrod and a couple of radical HD's beat me in the 1600 cc & up class Gary http://i1007.photobucket.com/albums/af193/gdingy101/scan0001.jpg
  11. dingy

    Fleas

    I am guessing you missed the Instrument cluster I had for sale. What do you need? I still have a 1st gen MKI unit. Speedometer & Tach will fit MKII's. Gary
  12. Yammer, I can not believe you didn't say to seafoam it. What's up, sell your stock in seafoam? Gary
  13. For your drive shaft get some Honda Moly 60. If you have a Honda dealer they will have it. It is about $10.00 for a 3 oz tube. In rear end (pumpkin) I used 80W-90 Valvoline synthetic oil. You will need less than a quart. What air pressure are you running in front shocks? 8-10 should be good for solo rider. If there is not an oil film on the exposed part of upper fork tubes, then you don't need seals. The seals do nothing to control the bounce. They just keep oil in tubes. Welcome, And go to the User CP and put your bike info in so it shows up in the header of your post. Similar to mine where it says '1983 XVZ Hybrid Vmax 1300'. It helps people to help you when you have questions in the future. Gary
  14. Partshark.com has them for $53 Electrical 2 page Item #8. Is it part in 1st picture below? I have a neutral only sender I could send, looks like one in second picture. You would lose gear indicator on cluster though. Gary
  15. Get better soon Earl. Gary
  16. I know that now you feel much better. Gary
  17. I had both style clutches available for my rebuild and ended up using an MKII unit. It was easier to stiffen the springs up in the MKII than the MKI. And one point to bear in mind, if you do put an MKII clutch in an MKI, you will need the MKII clutch engine cover. MKI cover does not clear the bolts of an MKII clutch. Putting a washer in as a shim sounds like it would work but it is not that simple. The O.D. of a washer as compared to its I.D. is going to have to be fairly close to work. Unless you have some machining capabilities available, it may be a struggle. I don't think an off the shelf washer from a hardware will work. Attached picture shows an MKI clutch. If washer is at bottom, it has to fit down in hole fairly precisely due to small shoulder at bottom, yet have big enough I.D. to clear tapered boss. If it is put at top, which seems more logical place to put it, The I.D. would need to be a close match to O.D. of the top of tapered boss to hold it from interfering with movement of clutch. Gary
  18. Jeff, I hope I am not hijacking your thread but my question is somewhat related. You said that you installed new plates that measure .118" thick. The service manual says these are serviceable down to .110" thick. That is a difference of .008". Considering that there are 8 disks in the clutch, this is a difference of .064" upper to lower limit. Hilighted next is a clip from Skydoc 17 post concerning his vendor problem with his PCW clutch upgrade. If you have not installed the upgrade kit yet, PLEASE DO NOT INSTALL THIS KIT UNLESS YOU CAN MEASURE THE THICKNESS WHICH SHOULD BE .070". If the spring is measuring .055 to .060" thick DO NOT INSTALL THIS KIT. Full thread is at : http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=47124 Now, to the point of my question, If Earl's spring was causing slipping due to a .015" difference, how can there not be slippage in these clutches far prior to them being at the wear limit of .064" ? Anyone care to enlighten me ?? Gary
  19. Just in case you don't already know this. The MKI clutch covers will not fit an MKII, cover is deeper to clear bolts on MKII clutch. I have a nicely polished MKI cover on ebay that I was going to put on my 1300 engine, and it wouldn't work. Gary
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