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dingy

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  1. dingy
    Below is an item number for one on Ebay. 250613839581 I got one a couple of weeks ago, quick shipping. The top of the compressor is not painted which is sort of ugly. I looked at one at Auto Zone and it was the same. Painted mine black. I was not really impressed by the volume though. Better than properly adjusted stock horns, but not ear shattering. Gary
  2. dingy
    I have noticed that occasionally mine will have a discrepancy between the green neutral light and the CMU display. There is only one neutral switch on the 1st gens. It is in the same body as the 1-5 gear indicator & works both the green light & CMU through the same contact. Looking at the wiring diagram, I don't see a stand out suspect to cause this. The gear indicator switch is a grounded connection. A wild a$$ guess might be that the pin may be slightly dirty in side the switch. Combined with a less than perfect crimp connection in the wiring harness, the load of the indicator light in neutral, the CMU is not getting a low enough signal to it to activate the 'N' indicator. The '1-5' work OK due to not having the load of the bulb in their circuits. Gary
  3. dingy
    The controller & class light are located in right fairing pocket. Class light purpose is to illuminate controller internally, kind of like the back lighting on instrument cluster. Relay is behind head light. Fuse is by main fuse panel on right side, near battery. Solenoid valve, pressure sensor & compressor are located under rear trunk between frame rails. Under the black plastic cover. If you put the CLASS in, the air fitting near the key switch and by the shock damper on left side will be non functional. Gary
  4. dingy
    If you are referring to the upper bleeder valve by the front fork I have one. E-mail me at gary@dinges.com Gary
  5. dingy
    I have both. Differential is painted red, but it will come off. Not powder coated. PM me. Gary
  6. dingy
    Considering the cost of the rotors on these bikes, I would rather use a relatively softer brake pad. It may not last as long, but it is kinder & gentler to the rotor. Gary
  7. dingy
    Ebay is running a no charge listing for items right now. Doesn't cost anything unless item sells. I have been thinking about parting out my 1200 engine. They don't bring any kind of price whole due to freight costs. One persons trash is another persons needed part to get bike running. Gary
  8. dingy
    Gary, Below is where I am at on carbs. I know I will take a beating here for the way I have resized jets, but I had extras, and it was cheaper than buying a new set of four for $30-$40 for each different trial. If you only have one set of jets and need to go smaller, you can solder hole shut and re-drill. Mikuni jet sizes do not go by hole size in jets. They are rated at measured flow. The mains have been resized to a #55 drill. Guess was that this would be close to 140. Judging by the size of the holes in a stock set of 170's and a stock set of 125's. PAJ2 I resized to a #53 drill. Guess is that this is about 160. Doing this helped decrease roughness in 2500 - 4000 rpm range when at a steady rate of speed. PAJ2 is an air jet. By going to a smaller size it enriches the the air/fuel mixture. PAJ2 is the one under the diaphragm. For fuel jets, going to a larger size enriches air/fuel mixture. Stock in the 1200 carbs is 117.5 for mains and 180 for PAJ2. Stock in the 1300 carbs is 125 for mains and 170 for PAJ2. I have mixture screws set at 3 turns out. I also have two 5/8" dia. holes in the top lid of air box cover. I tried this last year with the stock 1200, and it was causing a stumbling in 3000 RPM range. There is no such effect now. I also have a K&N air filter. Remember I have full Max heads, which have larger valves in them. Bike is idling very smooth. I have some files on working with carb jetting on Ventures & Max's if you want them. Gary
  9. dingy
    Check that the switch that is located behind (to the right) of the clutch handle is fully seated in its socket. Sometimes these come loose and shift out of place, then give a false signal that the clutch is pulled in. If it is fully seated, try pushing forward on clutch handle and see if it will start. Also check connector inside of head light housing and make sure switch wiring is plugged in. If it is unplugged or connectors are dirty, it would start in gear. My guess is you need a replacement clutch switch if all the above checks out. If your bike has cruise, you need a 4 wire switch. Gary
  10. dingy
    Bike should not start in gear with clutch out. It will start in neutral with side stand down or up and clutch in or out. Will not start in gear with side stand down at all. Will start in gear with clutch pulled. Attached is a PDF file showing starting circuits for your bike. Gary
  11. dingy
    Out of curiosity, I looked at the site for the gear indicator. What I could gather from the FAQ section is that the indicator will only work when the clutch is released. It seems that they are taking the RPM's and comparing it to the speed reading to determine a gear. This would not then possibly give an accurate indication if you where coming up to a light with the clutch in and down shifting through the gears as you coasted up. Another thing that may be a fly in the ointment is the people that have changed the rear end out to VMax gearing. Will there be a way to reprogram the logic to compensate for the RPM increase in any given gear? Interesting idea, but may not be as good as the 1st gen Royale's dash indicator. Gary
  12. dingy
    Girlfriends are replaceable items. Motorcycles are forever. Just ask BoomerCPO. Gary
  13. dingy
    Latest project for the scooter sunk to a new low. I bought an adjustable backrest bracket from a 2007 Harley Road Glide and mounted it on the bike. I didn't get the mounting bar for the backrest or the actual backrest so I fabricated one up. The mounting brackets were also McGyvered from stock steel pieces . I had to remove a section of the plastic base for the seat and a little foam for the bracket clearance. It is a removable backrest and the tilt can be adjusted forward and back. There is a cable made for it that I didn't get. The tilt feature is something I really don't care if I have, since once I get it set where I want it, it won't need to move again. I can trigger the tilt but the seat needs to be off in order to do it without the cable. There are two pictures of the orange bike that is a Road Glide with the stock bracket mounted to it. I don't have the backrest covered or the bar powder coated. Those are tomorrows project. Cost for the bracket on ebay was $46 with shipping and I have about another $30 in a couple of pieces of steel and the foam and covering material. It really does make the bike more comfortable. Road it for about 40 miles tonight and I like it. Bike didn't seem any slower with the HD part on it either. Gary
  14. dingy

    Honda Moly 60

    dingy replied to BigBear's topic in Watering Hole

    Below is a link to a previous thread on this subject. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=34940&highlight=moly+grease Gary
  15. dingy

    Honda Moly 60

    dingy replied to BigBear's topic in Watering Hole

    Got mine from a motorcycle dealer. Gary
  16. dingy
    Would there be any interest from members to purchase replacement square cut O-Rings that go between the brake caliper halves on 1st gen bikes. These are not used on 2nd gen bikes due to caliper design. Yamaha does not list a part for this square cut O-Ring. They recommend in the service manual not splitting the calipers. In order to give the calipers a decent cleaning though, I have found that splitting the caliper is necessary. At times it is need to just get the pistons out of the caliper body. I have located a supplier that will make this O-Ring for me. I have to order a quantity of 250 of them though. There is a 7 week lead time. I can supply 6 of these O-Rings, which is the quantity needed for all three calipers, for a cost of $10.00 including shipping to U.S. & Canada. Please post to this thread or PM me if interested. Bear in mind the long lead time I have on getting these special O-Rings. Gary
  17. dingy
    There is no timing adjustment as there is in a car where the distributor is rotated. The timing is locked in place via the pick up coil(s) in the stator area and the magnets attached to flywheel/rotor. The TCI handles the timing advance via its inputs for RPM & the pressure sensor. Gary
  18. dingy
    With the bike on its side, the air pocket that is in the clutch master cylinder may have been positioned in a manner to allow air to get into the valve and lines. Especially if the clutch lever was pulled in while it was down. Gary
  19. dingy
    Pulling the carbs out of bike. Splitting carb rack in half. Taking float bowls off of each carb. Picture below of main jet, it is on the right side of picture. Also there is a diagram of the flow patterns in a Vmax carb which is very similar to Ventures. Gary
  20. dingy
    I was at .072" on needles. I was getting a nasty hesitation if I would be at about a steady 6,000 rpm and crack throttle wide open. Red line is around 8,500, and I have hit 9,000 a couple of times. Reset needles to .102" and that got rid of hesitation at 6,000. I also backed the mixture screws out another half turn. (about 3 turns now). The roughness I was having at 3,000 cleared up quite a bit with the mixture screw. It was somewhat rough at a steady 3,000 before. For the most part it isn't bad. I am considering pulling carbs off and trying a larger main to see what that does to it. I've got #140's in it now. Used that size upon Squeeze's learned opinion as to a size to start with. Reason I am thinking about larger mains is Vmax's are running #150's, plus they are dumping even more fuel in when the V-boost kicks in. I have a hundred more CC's than a Max, but no v-boost. Squeeze wants me to get an air/fuel reading but I don't have anyone around I know that can do that cheaply. Gas mileage is in high 30's for the most part, which I am satisfied with. I have on a stock set of mufflers that have all but the forward most baffle removed. I was hoping to get SkyDoc on it at MD, but that may not happen with his condition. I like a second opinion on how its running. Gary
  21. dingy
    Below are pictures of what I removed from a stock set of mufflers. Not obnoxiously loud (depending on listener, I guess) but you hear it coming & going. Gary
  22. dingy
    Many other things to check that could due this besides the battery. To check the battery take it to Auto Zone, Advance, O'riely's, etc.and they can do a load test on it. Remove and clean the terminals at the battery, starter solenoid & starter connection. Use a piece of emery cloth or 320 (approx.) grit sandpaper. Replace and tighten bolts. The solenoid & starter bolts are low torque. I couldn't find spec in manual, but it is 5-6 ft/lbs (60-72 in/lbs). Also check the main ground line on the right side, near the front of the engine block. Clean this and connection point to block. Another possibility is starter needs removed and cleaned. The brushes may need replaced or the commutator may need cleaned. If you pull the starter off, clean the mounting pads where the two 10mm bolts go through to mount it to the engine. This is the grounding path. Check the stator to wiring harness connection on left side near the air ride adj. knob. by passenger foot peg. It is a 3 pin connector with 3 white wires. These have been known to overheat and then not recharge battery. Gary
  23. dingy
    The mighty vac won't fill the master, it pulls fluid through the brake caliper bleeder screw, slowly emptying the master. You need to keep an eye on the master so you don't empty it and draw air back into lines. The last thing you do is refill the master to whatever level you want. The rear is the toughest, due to it not having a sight glass. I have a very small, turkey baster like suction bulb I use. I can top the master reservoir off, then suck out some of the fluid. Gary
  24. dingy
    Attached is a picture of the rear master and the two feed holes in it. Gary
  25. dingy
    I would not put the R1 on the front if you are going to delink the brakes. I put MKII's on front with delinked brakes and it has got enough stopping power to lock front wheel up. You should also go to an MKII front master cylinder if you delink brakes. Cylinder bore is larger to match increased caliper piston volume. I know that with the MKII brakes you need to change the lower front fork tubes out to accommodate the bolt spacing on the MKII caliper mounts, this is if you are doing the change to an MKI, The R1's also require this, I believe. You can also put put MKII brakes on the rear wheel, but it requires a bit of McGyvering to the MKII caliper mount arm. Gary
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