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dingy

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  1. dingy
    I got an email from patch guy today and he said he would give me a price break on 20 of them considering he would not have paypal, ebay and shipping and handling fees on each one. I will probably get 20 of them from him if there is enough interest in them and pass them on to people that would want one (or more). He said it would be 2 or three weeks. They are 3 x 4 inches in size. Gary
  2. dingy
    This topic has been discussed several times here before and it is almost as varied as oil and tire topics. Ventures use a Shunt type regulator. This style regulator discharges excess current coming from the stator to ground via an electronic circuit, probably large SCR's. This shunt system is designed to handle the expected output of the bikes stator which is in the range of 30 amps. When you hook a car up to it that is running, now the regulator is possibly trying to shunt the output of possibly a 100 amp or more regulator. The regulator may fail trying to do this. The reason a running car is worse than a non running car is that when the car's voltage regulator senses the lower voltage battery being put in parallel with the cars battery, it engages the higher alt. output. This increases voltage and current flow. A non running car's battery is at a level around 13.2 volts, when the alt. engages the system voltage increases to around 14.5 volts. A circuit will draw the power that it requires when voltage is constant. For example, you screw in a 40 watt bulb into a 120V outlet it glows and pulls just the amount of current needed. You put in a 100 watt bulb, it glows brighter & pulls more current. Now with either bulb, if you increase the voltage, the bulb will draw more current and glow brighter, possibly to the point of failure. The point being either bulb has assess to a very large current flow potential, but only draws from the power grid what is needed. Same principle with a Shunt type regulator, if a steady 13.2 voltage is applied, the motorcycle battery will try to equalize it self by drawing power from the car's battery. It acts like a sponge, sucking energy from the car. When the cars charging system kicks in and increases voltage to 14.5, the bikes regulator sees this increase in voltage and thinks system is charged and tries to shunt current to ground in order to protect battery from overcharging. Since the car can provide far more current than the regulator is designed for, something can fail. If the car is just idling, it probably is not spinning the alternator fast enough to develop the higher voltage & amperage. But if it is reved up, system output increases. A non running car with a decent battery has by far enough power to crank these engines without discharging. Gary
  3. dingy
    If it is #2 cylinder not firing, I would think the TCI is OK. The TCI output to #2 cylinder is what operates the tach & fuel pump. If TCI was not outputting a signal, no fuel pump and the bike would not run. My opinion would be until you get that cylinder firing, carb sync would not be real helpful. Have you checked compression on cylinders, checked spark plugs, coils, plug wires. Gary
  4. dingy
    Upload to http://www.youtube.com/ , then put a link here to file. You tube will display a link for file when you upload it. Gary
  5. dingy
    When the starter button is depressed, the only relay that should pick or drop is the starter relay. There is no headlight cutout relay, energy for the light circuit runs through the start switch then into the Reserve lighting unit. Try putting a voltmeter on the starter relay terminal that goes to the starter. Relay is located to left of breather box, somewhat under fairing pocket cover. Then try to start bike, if you have voltage, then statrt circuitry is functioning. Next step is checking all connections. Check & clean battery connections. Also check ground connection on right front side of engine where main ground connects to block. I did a write up on improving starter ground connection inside starter, link below. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=46890 Also here is a link to the starter involved circuits. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=42722 Gary
  6. dingy
    The pressure sensor is interconnected with the TCI. When you twist open,or close the throttle, the vacuum pressure changes , signaling the TCI to advance or retard the spark depending on RPM's. I tried the Jason mod a couple of years ago, and I did not see any difference. The vacuum hose is too small of a diameter to do any good. If you do this mod, you would still need the pressure sensor connected. The pressure sensor does help timing, but if you are not 'Running it like you stole it' you probably won't notice it not being hooked up. All it does is attempt to emulate the Vboost system on the Vmaxs. The vboost principle is that there is an additional set of buttrerfly valves between the front & rear carbs on each side. These are built into an interconnected intake manifold. They are operated by a servo motor and an electronic controller. They increase engine performance, by allowing cylinder to draw air/fuel mixture through two carbs instead of one. Gary
  7. dingy
    I don't really dislike the RSV's, I am not a fan of the forward controls on them or the fork mounted fairings. I have two crushed vertebra in my lower back and I am more comfortable with my feet under me. I rarely use the highway pegs. Gary
  8. dingy
    Valve adjustment won't produce a knock. When you changed the oil, was there much debris on the magnetic pickup on the end of the drain plug? Something else to try is to pull one plug wire at a time and see if one cylinder affects the knock more than other 3. Gary
  9. dingy
    So your selling the RSV and getting a first gen ? Gary
  10. dingy
    He sent me another email saying he would do some up in black with white lettering. It would be a few weeks before they are available and he would let me know. I will post back here when i hear from him. On a very related thread, see this thread. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?threadid=51611 Gary
  11. dingy
    After reading about the patch that Cruser found online, I ordered one from ebay. The link to that thread is next. The link to this one has profanity in it, but I like it and ordered one. He also said he would make some up in black with white lettering. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?threadid=51590 After exchanging several emails with the creator of this patch, I asked him If he could do a custom patch. He said he would do one up. It will read Why Yes, It Is Faster Than Your RSV He said it will take a few weeks to get it together and that he would let me know when they are ready. If anyone is interested in one let me know and I will forward it to him how many he can sell. I will not be involved with selling them as his price with shipping is real low. Now, no hate posts from you 2nd genner's, thread title said not to read this. Gary
  12. dingy
    V7Goose, Eck, Black Owl & Squidly are the ones I am aware of. Freebird of course. Gary
  13. dingy
    They emailed back that it is only available in white with black lettering. Gary
  14. dingy
    While I was in the process of rebuilding my bike this winter I was having some problems with the FJR/Vmax rear end I was installing. One of the things I tried was installing an MKII rear wheel on it. It fit fine. Did not cure the problem which was later resolved, but it was interchangeable with the MKI wheel I end up using. Gary
  15. dingy
    I also asked if I could get a black one with white lettering. Gary
  16. dingy
    Yes you can. You have to remove the cruise light pod. Underneath that it is just like an 85. Gary
  17. dingy
    Here is a picture of one and the dimensions. 6.55mm (.258") from the flange to the first line, 6.8mm (.267") to the second line on the "middle" (Right) side 2.35mm (.092") from the flange to the first line, 2.55mm (.100") to the second (outside) line on the "rear" (Left) side. You only need these on 83-85 Ventures. The 86-93 are filled to the bottom thread of the fill hole. Case casting is different on the MKII's. Gary http://i1007.photobucket.com/albums/af193/gdingy101/P1030757.jpg
  18. dingy
    Just ordered one. $3.95 including shipping. Gary
  19. dingy
    Mcmaster Carr sells them. I have gotten some for the head light unit I made. http://www.mcmaster.com Not sure about metric though. They have extremely fast shipping. I ordered some fasteners from them once at 6:00 PM and had them the next day before noon. This was at regular shipping prices. Gary
  20. dingy
    I believe the Ingitech unit will work with a 90-93 model. There is a setting already included in the software for a Venture XVZ 1300. It is different than what is needed for the 83-89 ventures. TVking63 said that he thought this setting was for the 90-93 bikes I beleive. You could email Ingitech at http://www.ignitech.cz/english/aindex.htm and ask them about this. I recently aquired a unit from Crimson Knight when he decided to part out his Venture. So far the unit is working well. I am not really satisfied with the use of a Map sensor on the unit though. I have a Throttle Position Sensor that I am going to mount to the carb rack in the near future to try and duplicate what Ingitech had in mind. The Map Sensor is a workable solution and easier to install than a TPS but it does have some disadvantages. One of them being the output voltage is higher than what the Ingitech is programmed for. I picked up some resistors last night at Radio Shack and am going to experiment with lowering the output voltage into a range the Ingitech can be adapted to. I will post anything I come up with in the ongoing Ingitech thread located at http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=40414 You can download the software from their site and get a feel for what you can do with it. Here is a link to that page. http://www.ignitech.cz/english/aindex.htm . You want the TCIP4 software. Gary
  21. dingy
    Below is a brief description of a circuit modification to the CLASS system wiring to allow the system to be adjusted while the bike is running. This can be done with only removing the faux tank cover. I mentioned doing it in the thread below and a couple of members requested some details on it so I started a new thread detailing it. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=51557 I would like to preface this by saying that caution should be used if you choose to do this. Use care if you adjust air pressure in system while riding. I do not feel it will adversely affect the handling of the bike, but it will distract you. Not anymore than adjusting the CB or radio, but be careful. Yamaha states in the manual to put the bike on the center stand to adjust the air levels. A lot of people do not do this. I prefer to adjust it when sitting on bike so I can adjust ride height so I can see over the windshield. This adjustment varies depending on bike load. On 1st gen bikes with the Class system, there is an extra contact in the ignition switch that is energized only when the key is in the ACCY position. This circuit then goes to the CLASS fuse that is in a separate holder, located on the right side of the fuse panel above the battery. This fuse holder is shown in the first picture. All that is required to energize the CLASS system is to wire in a switch and fuse holder to provide positive 12 volt battery to one side of the CLASS fuse holder. I strongly recommend that you do use a switch on here so as to not power up the CLASS system all the time. I measured the current draw on the CLASS system, it pulls a little under 1/2 amp at rest and 5 amps when the compressor is running. The additional current draw full time on the system is avoidable by using a switch. The 1st gen's are known for having little extra capacity in the charging system as is. The second picture shows a switch with a fuse on the positive side. The blue wire is spliced into the existing CLASS fuse holder on the wire opposite the locking tab on the connector. This is the bottom wire in the first picture. The fused side wire is spliced into an accessible wire that is switched on when the key is in the on position. I used the wire that feeds the Accy block on the fuse panel. I attached this wire before the fuse to the Accy terminals. I did this so as to not overload the Accy fuse. The Accy terminals are energized when the key is in the ON or ACCY position. I mounted the small toggle switch in the fairing side cover. The use of a lighted switch would be helpful to show the system is energized. A lighted switch would also require a wire being run to ground to operate the switch. 16 gauge wire and a 10 amp fuse is sufficient to for this. Also attached is a partial wiring schematic showing this mod. The additional wiring is in the red 'cloud'. This is only a partial schematic, I deleted a lot of the wiring to make it easier to pick out. Complete schematics for 1st gen Ventures are at the thread below. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=42358 Gary
  22. dingy
    What makes all this last post sound very self serving is the fact that in your initial post, you in no way tried to offer any sage technical advice to the thread. You just insulted the poster for not using the proper term for something. You later added the line "Perhaps you need to re-check for us what bike you are working on and what parts you have actually replaced?" to try to make the first paragraph, which is still insulting, sound a little more palatable. You did try to soften your tirade after I sent you a PM and said I thought you were acting in a manner that a moderator should try discourage, rather than being the instigator of. As you, I have often annoyed other people over the course of my lifetime. That is easy for me to do face to face. I have found if I engage a few brain cells before hitting the Submit button, I do this less over the internet though. Gary
  23. dingy
    As I expressed to you in a PM last night, I believe you owe this poster an apology. I may be alone in this , but I think you went way over the line considering your position as a moderator by insulting this member. And the cowardly attempt to soften what you had said by editing your post and adding the second paragraph makes your actions seem more childish. Gary
  24. dingy
    No I don't adjust it on center stand.. I even bought a switch tonight so I can activate it & adjust it while riding. It will be a simple mod to activate it while the key is on. I don't want to wire it that way permanently though. Gary
  25. dingy
    I emailed him asking for serial #. It is for sure a 2nd gen, you can see dogbone mounts and fake air cooling fin mounts. Looking at some of his non positive feed back, he seems less than pleasant to deal with. Gary
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