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dingy

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Everything posted by dingy

  1. Randy, Have you considered using MKII mounts? The MKI mounts are much weaker than the MKII's. Below is a picture of the MKI's The MKII's are still rubber, but they don't have the ribbing around the contact area, which makes them significantly stronger. I am using MKII's in mine and am satisfied with them. I thing Skydoc mentioned not long ago that he had put solid ones in his. His opinion seemed mixed about them. One thing I think he said was there was an increased vibration with the solid mounts. Gary
  2. Stator cover or mid drive cover? Gary
  3. Something like this? Gary
  4. 4 U 8 - 0 0 is correct relay. Next, I would look at the side stand switch. It is shown in the attached picture. In this picture the rubber boot is not correctly located. It should be back against the large body of the switch. Watch the switch plunger as you put the side stand up and down. Does it move out? Some one posted here recently that thier switch was hanging up due to the rubber boot. If it looks like it is moving OK, next follow the wire cable back to the connector near the air ride damper adjuster. It will be a 3 prong connector. It will have a Black wire, a Blue with Yellow tracer wire and a Green with Yellow tracer wire. The Black wire is a ground wire. Disconnect the wiring connector. Look for corrosion or bad contacts inside both ends. When the side stand is up, all three of these wires are connected in the switch. When the side stand is down, all three of these wires are disconnected in the switch. With an ohm meter, on the switch end of the connector, connect one lead to the black wire and the other lead to either of the other two wires. You should have 0 ohms with the side stand up and infinite ohms with side stand down. Reading should be the same between black wire & either of other two wires. If it is not, side stand switch is bad. If it is the switch that is bad, I would recommend you get a replacement switch. There are some on here that will say you don't need switch and it can be bypassed, but this switch will save your butt when working if you forget to put side stand up. As far as fuel pump relay clicking, is it the relay in the headlight bucket clicking, or is it the fuel pump itself? Gary
  5. Your not tweeting, try typing it all out. 4 U B Gary
  6. This probably doesn't make my Top Ten List of Stupid, but it is motorcycle related. The main cruising road in town where I live is about a mile long, on the west end there is a large parking lot that is used as a turnaround. It has been there for a long time. Picture below shows it with the Venture setting in parking lot, just off of the street. I took this tonight to give a visual with this. As you can see to the left side of the entrance to the parking lot the pavement drops down to street level about 2 1/2 feet from the white line to the sidewalk. About 30 years ago, I was on a 750 Honda and came turning into this lot, just about in line where the venture is sitting, way to fast. When I hit the incline, I was catapulted into the air, I maintained a death grip on the handle bars My body was straight up in the air, upside down as I clung to the bike. This was observed by my cousin behind me. If this were the end of the story, it would have been an exiting ride. But, what goes up, must come down. I quickly pivoted back down onto the seat of the bike, firmly mashing the family jewels. I kept the bike up, but barely as I recall. Gary http://i1007.photobucket.com/albums/af193/gdingy101/IMG00079.jpg
  7. If you removed the side stand relay and it started, the relay is functioning through the contacts as it should. The side stand relay is the only one in the 1st gens that has its contacts closed with no energy to the coil. When the coil gets energized, the contacts open. Put the relay back in socket and hold it in your hand, turn switch on, have some one move side stand up and down. You should feel relay energize and drop out when this is done. The dash indicator works independent of the relay, it should function regardless if relay is in or not. Below is a link to the 1st gen wiring diagrams on this site. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=42358 Gary
  8. Polish the commutator face with 600 grit emery. Lightly do the same to brush contact face. Check the depth of the mica insulators. Do an electrical ohm test between coils 1.5M ohm or more. Put a SMALL amount of grease in bearings. Too much is bad. Reassemble. Gary
  9. Minimum brush length is 4.5 mm or .177" Page 7-5 of service manual If you do not have a copy you can download it at location shown in this thread. This one is the only complete 83-85 manual I have found. Most of them are missing about 10 pages. Snaggletooth scanned the missing pages from his hardcopy & I inserted them were needed. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=43688 Gary
  10. Are you pulling vacuum from one carb port? Gary
  11. Just a little more info to further confuse this. Mikuni jets are not sized by hole dia. They are sized by flow rate. I do not have a chart that shows the smaller sizes, but below is one that lists the differences between Mikuni & Dynojet sizes. Gary http://i1007.photobucket.com/albums/af193/gdingy101/mikuni-dynojetsize.jpg
  12. I would disagree with the gentleman from up north. The air jets in our Mikuni carbs are there to induce atmospheric clean air into the fuel circuits. Enlarging these jets will have the effect to lean out the final A/F ratio. See attached crosssection view of very similar Vmax carb. Items #2 & #4 are the changeable air jets. Gary http://i1007.photobucket.com/albums/af193/gdingy101/vmaxcarb.jpg
  13. Oh, I was wondering how long before you made an appearance. I know this is an issue near and dear to your heart. Right up there with the darksiders. Cheers, Gary
  14. Do not use an Analog meter for digital circuits. Only use a Digital Meter, it has to do with the bridging circuits in an analog meter. You can destroy an integrated circuit chip with an analog. An analog meter is one with a swinging needle that is read against a scale behind the needle. Gary
  15. Actually, reducing the back pressure was the reason I opened the mufflers up. It just didn't seem to make sense to have a 3" dia. piston (7.068 sq in) exhausting through two 1" dia. holes (1.570 sq in) I have never had a real loud bike, I didn't like them. This is without a doubt the loudest I have ever had. I still have a somewhat stock set of mufflers that were on the bike before I rebuilt it. Much mellower. Most of the guys I ride with have HD's. This is quieter than any of them. It is not nearly as loud as any number of HD's I have seen. It is fairly reasonable at low rpm's. The audio clip above was taken very close and inside a garage. The mufflers are the smallest point for flow in the exhaust system. I have added Vmax heads & cams and did this in an effort to improve the flow through the system. The carbs were rejetted, but considering the other mods to my bike, the numbers would be meaningless to a stock venture. As far as the neighbors, there are some people that will always be unhappy, but if you don't hit 6,000 rpm on the way out the drive, they will still be unhappy. Gary
  16. WTF ? I'm not even sure how to respond to this one. Gary
  17. I cutoff the extension at the seam first. Drilled a 1/2" hole towards outer edge of rearward baffle. Then I used a Dewalt reciprocating saw to cut out around the rear baffle. Middle baffle is spot welded in. I used a long chisel to break it out. I left the front baffle in. Attached is another picture of mid baffle. Click below for a sound clip. Taken from about 5 feet behind bike. [ATTACH]49343[/ATTACH] Gary
  18. If a Modulator is used and is in working order, I do not believe it would diminish bulb life by a measurable amount. I think some people are confusing modulators, which are legal, with strobe lights, which are illegal. Below is a portion of the DOT regulations concerning modulators. S7.9.4.1 A headlamp on a motorcycle may be wired to modulate either the upper beam or the lower beam from its maximum intensity to a lesser intensity, provided that: (a) The rate of modulation shall be 240 40 cycles per minute. (b) The headlamp shall be operated at maximum power for 50 to 70 percent of each cycle. © The lowest intensity at any test point shall be not less than 17 percent of the maximum intensity measured at the same point. Summary: 200 minimum cycles per minute, 50% minimum at full voltage & no more than 17% dip in intensity. Gary
  19. You could refer to this thread from a month ago that covers many members feelings on this matter. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=51055 Gary
  20. For the most part, yes you can put the 1st gen Vmax in a 1st gen venture frame. A few problems will be encountered. The vmax shifter linkage differs from the venture setup, This will be problematic getting to work with the foot pegs. Carb throttle linkage on the pull cable will need to be reworked, due to height of carbs being higher with V boost. Choke linkage is different. Another route is to upgrade the venture engine. There are a number of members here that have used the heads, cams and rear end of a vmax. A few have put the v boost system on. Gary
  21. For all of you folks that have a favorite team & also whom ever is playing XYZ team. I really like The Ohio State Buckeyes, and would be ecstatic if they won every game. There is also another team that is great to see have a good year, It's the Michigan Wolverines. http://i1007.photobucket.com/albums/af193/gdingy101/MichSlash.jpg I love it when the traditional final game of our college season rolls around and we can meet our arch rivals from up north. It is also all the better when the Michigan game comes around and those boys look like they haven't been touched all year. Clean shiny uniforms, and a perfect 10-0-0 record. Then when they get their butts kicked in the Shoe and all hopes of a national title are gone, it is a great feeling to know that we did it to them. No Rose Bowl game for Michigan, maybe they will get a shot at the Papa John's Bowl or the Chick-fil-a-Bowl. It's been six long years since Michigan has beat OSU, some kids at Michigan had to go their whole college career and never beat OSU, So Sorry. [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1aOYyKTu0Ys]YouTube- Ohio State Football 2010!!!! (IT GAVE ME CHILLS WATCHING THIS...)[/ame] Live long & prosper with Coach Tressel Gary
  22. Same thing happened at a bar one time. Keys fell down and disappeared. Borrowed a flashlight from band and went fishin'. Gary
  23. Thought you were here for a minute. I live in Mansfield (Oh) and the neighboring town is Ontario. Gary
  24. Dano, Is this one you are referring to? aedlee, Check ignition fuse in fuse block, second one down. Check that it is secure in fuse block, these tabs weaken and do not provide good contact. If bike is cranking, the only switches involved would be the tip switch in headlight bucket or the side stand switch. Try starting with bike in neutral & side stand up. If it starts, probably side stand switch. Check pickup coil connector. Located near rear shock air damper adjustment, behind side cover. Gary
  25. Dan, You might want to try Ethyl alcohol, drugstores sell it, but it is not as common as Isopropyl alcohol. It is much purer than Iso. It will plainly say Ethyl on the label. Gary
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