dingy

Thread Killer Champion does get it's own badge, right? What's it look like. Bidding is not over. Like the Venture'In Host & Exceptional member. Would be nice if we got a special icon for ST. Judes donations. High bidder on significant auctions would get one. Gary

Why yes, I beleive he did !! Gary

Valve covers & chrome caps are from an RSV. No issues putting RSV valve covers on 1st gen block. 1st gen & VMax valve covers don't have the provision for the screws that hold chrome covers on. Gary

Water pipe out of waterpump will not fit 1st gen thermostat housing. 2nd gen runs directly to bottom of radiator. 2nd gen stator cover requires use of 2nd gen stator and 2nd gen rotor. Use of 2nd gen rotor requires either 2nd gen TCI or Ignitech TCI. Middle gear cover use required modification of shifter shaft that transverses motor from clutch side. Clutch cover did not require any modifications. Gary

Progress on Sylvester, A.K.A. Hybrid. Motor in, exhaust finally mounted, except mufflers. RSV side covers and valve caps on modified 1st gen motor. Carb covers & cross brace will be powder coated black as will the cylinder drain plug covers. Gary

Since Annie bid $150 in other thread, I will go $200.00 !! Gary

The VMax rotor was lightened in order to help acceleration. The Ignitech TCI's that I sell are set up identically on VMax & Ventures, with the exception of timing/vacuum curves. They have to be same rotor or Ignitech wouldn't work on both with same programing. Gary

VMax & Venture TCI's will interchange. 83~89 Venture's with 85~89 VMax's and 90~93 Venture's with 90~07 VMax's There is nothing in VMax TCI different from a Venture, other than the RPM/Vacuum advance curve. Did you change the pickup coil. I helped a guy in Thailand a few weeks ago that had a new Ignitech that would not start. Ended up being a bad pickup coil on a 91 VMax. Coil may be going bad on yours. Gary

That brings tears to my eyes C3PO. The pinacale of his career will be serving with Marines. Ooh raa Semper Fi Gary

Looks like it is contained in the web address bar at top of window. This thread appears to be 85578. Gary

Yes, you can remove ring after tapping air joint up. Wire keeps air joint up to top of forks. And this assumes that the forks are loose in the triple trees and slid down a little. Gary

There is a formed wire clip under each air ring, remove it. Then spray some WD40 or similar on air ring. GENTLY tap all around on the bottom of each ring to break O-rings inside loose. They will then slide off easily. Gary

The one on the right in pictures in Venturous's post is better one. It still has pins, they are retained in between solid plates rather than the "formed" piece on left side. Picture attached below with a different view angle, pins can be seen in both. Better one on left again. Gary

Numbers match what I used for shifter upgrade. Heat the countersunk bolt to break loctite, very tight & hard to remove. Gary

There is one bolt on bottom that matter, not bolts. It is at very bottom of lower tube. Allen head socket screw. It is in same axis as upper tube. You have to look up into pocket at bottom of tube. Axle hole goes through this pocket & bolt head is above axle centerline. Hard to see if you don't know it is there. Gary

My guess would be the sensor that was in the stock battery to check acid level. If there isn't a resistor installed in that circuit, I am surprised it hasn't fried the CMU. Gary

The blue plug should be connected to a relay with a blue base on it. This is the side stand relay. Only relay on bike that is Normally Closed. Turn signal relay will have 9 wires going into it. Also has starting circuit relay in same housing. Should have 41R printed on it. Gary

You do not want to use an older style meter, one with a needle readout. They are shunt type meters. They will potentially damage transistorized circuits instantly. Gary

A unique way to dimension a drawing for a specific part. Gary

Try the suggestion above and jumper all 3 wires together at the connection point near starter switch on main harness side. One is a ground wire, one goes to CMU and one goes to TCI. Tying them all together is same thing that happens when side stand is down and switch is working. This bypasses some safety circuits. Gary

OK, I will try again. 1st picture is of seal end of starter from an 83-85 starter. Not sure which, just a spare I had from a parts bike. 2nd picture is from a 97 RSTD 4 brush. There is no visible seal # on the MKI. The RSTD seal # is NOK AC0587F Shaft dia on both is 0.590" As close as I can tell seal bore ID is the same on both, but I can't get a good measurement with seal in bore. Looks to be 0.984" ID. I am not going to pull seal as it would destroy it. Needle bearing is different visually, cage is different, looks like 4 brush has 1 more needle in bearing. What brand is your rebuild kit? There have been a few complaints about an Ebay kit, the brushes wore out within a year. For a point of reference, the 4 brush I opened up to get picture just arrived today. Paid $25.00 for it including shipping. That being typed, you are better of replacing starter than rebuilding it. While you are in there, might as well take a look at thread linked below. It will cure your starter related cranking issues. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=46890 Gary

Hook Ignitech TCI up to laptop & read program into PC. I attached PDF on doing this. Check Inputs #1 & #2 on the Miscellaneous tab. Input #2 should be set to 'Kill", if that doesn't work, set it to 'Blocking'. You have to program changes into TCI after each change. Call me if you need assistance, numbers are in profile. There are separate wires to CMS and kill function to TCI in main harness. It may not be TCI issue. Gary

In order for the 1st picture to happen, the mounting screw for the Main Nozzle, has to be loose, allowing nozzle to shift into venturi. Picture attached., main nozzle at top with screw into it at very top of picture. 2nd picture shows nozzle with screw, washer& oring. I think carbs are coming back off to fix this. Gary

If it is up and down play, why are you replacing the master cylinder? Bushing in lever is what is bad. Buy a new lever. Gary

Adapter harness wires are 6" long. Map cable is 18" long, hooks to supplied new map sensor. TCI is 4 1/4" x 2 1/2" x 1" It should mount to top of air box with no rewiring. Velcro for mounting included. Link to current thread I have going for them. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=82733 Much longer thread of the use of the TCI on this forum. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=40414 Gary