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dingy

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Everything posted by dingy

  1. dingy
    Isn't it fun though rebuilding one of these. When you are done you will have a machine that will last for a long time and have the knowledge that of how everything works in it. You mentioned putting in a vboost system. One thing I believe you will need to modify on the carbs is the pull cable mounting. I talked with Rick Butler at Freebirds MD this year about doing this to mine. He said that due to the carb rack being raised from the new intakes, that the pull cable had to be changed when he did his. You might want to talk to him about this while you have carbs off. His user name is Rick Butler . I ended up using the clutch pack from my 88 donor bike on my engine. Unlike you, I felt the diaphragm spring setup was superior to the helical springs on the MKI's. With the diaphragm spring setup, there are three levels of pressure setups available. First is the stock setup, which, as it comes from the factory, is not sufficient. Second, there is the PCW mod which Skydoc is selling in the classifieds. Third, there is a mod where two stock diaphragm springs are used. This is the route I went. It makes for a hard pull on the lever, but I have seen no slippage. The coil spring setup on the MKI's is a little harder to increase the pressure. There is a Barnett coil spring upgrade available for it, but I talked to the seller, and he said the springs were the same specs as stock, more of a replacement kit than an upgrade. I found that when I put my progressive springs in , that the front end went from spongy to like a rock. I took the short PVC spacer out that came with the new springs and it is much better. I may at some point put the spacer back in, due to I have heard after some time the progressives break in and become freer. You said that you were going to rebuild carbs and keep them on the rack. You won't be able to do much if you do not split them in half at least. You can't pull fuel bowl cover off with rack intact. You can split it into two pieces (right & left and be fine. If you did not get a complete rebuild kit, I would suggest you do not remove the housing that holds the main jet from the carb body inside the fuel bowl. The gasket there will need to be replaced. Gary
  2. dingy
    MKI headlight cannot be put into a stock MKII. The front fairing sub frame is different. MKI has tabs on it to mount the headlight bucket which are not on the MKII sub frame. Picture of MKI fairing sub frame is in attached picture. Tabs for headlight mount have circle around them. Gary
  3. dingy
    Gary, Attached is a page from 84 owners manual showing fuel petcock operation. Gary
  4. dingy
    No pictures ? It didn't happen then. Gary
  5. dingy
    But also consider that the probe is in one of the two center cells, so it only is reading 3 or 4 cells of voltage. It is not seeing the full potential of all cells in series. Gary
  6. dingy
    Here is a better picture. Couple of transistors, diode, 2 capacitors and about 6 resistors. Along with an on board relay. Gary.
  7. dingy
    I have been dealing without having a job since January 2009. Finally started back to work this week as a Mechanical Design Engineer at a plant 5 miles from home. I am working in new product development, which is a nice area to be in. They make small electrical sensors for cars, appliances, water heaters & related stuff. Last job was a 55 mile commute one way, so the 5 mile drive is great . It is nice to be productive again. On the down side, my mother in law was diagnosed with terminal cancer a week ago. The cancer is so advanced , there is nothing they can do for her. She is an old Kentucky hills woman that never went to the doctor. She was taken to ER last week and diagnosed with pneumonia. They made her go to a regular doctor and he found a large mass on one of her lungs and cancer had spread to throat and lymph nodes. She has probably known that something was wrong for sometime, but never said anything. There is nothing that they can do for her. At this point they can't even drain her lungs again. They put her on morphine this afternoon. She is on a full face respirator that is doing most of her breathing for her. My wife and her brother & sisters are constantly with her at hospital. She can pass at any time now. Gary
  8. dingy
    I believe that plug is for the condenser. The condensers purpose is to reduce radio & CB noise. Bike will run fine without it. Condenser is at top center of attached picture, with writing on it. Gary
  9. dingy
    I wouldn't use a standard relay for the fuel pump relay. It may cause a failure of the TCI. Attached is a picture of a 1st gen fuel pump relay inside. Some of the circuitry is a snubbing circuit for the coil of the relay. This helps bridge the pulses that are coming from the TCI. A problem that you may have is that when a relay has power removed from it, the coil induces a voltage spike into the controlling circuit. This is due to the energized armature field collapsing. With the armature being tied into the TCI, strange and bad things may happen. If you are interested in this relay, PM. I cut the cover off of it, but it can be reattached, and still be functional. I probably have a diode pack here somewhere also. Gary
  10. dingy
    Attached is a picture of center stand & spring. Gary
  11. dingy
    Presently there are 273 users online, no doubt due to contest email. How was the all time high of 604 obtained on 4/8/2008 ? Was it a planned event? Gary
  12. dingy
    Some insurance companies will let you keep the bike for a small percentage of a total loss payout. If it is not to badly damaged it may be worthwhile for you to keep it and repair it or part it out. Good that you to are safe and somewhat intact. Gary
  13. dingy
    Here is link to wiring diagrams. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=42358 Replacing fuses is a fairly easy job. I used inline fuses holders for mine They are about $3.50 at O'Rielys Auto Parts. I liked the ones at O'Rielys better than Auto Zone. They are for 20 amp circuits and below. Auto Zones are for 30 amp circuits. The 20 amp ones are big enough and the slightly smaller wire is easier to manipulate and solder. The glass fuses are used on the Accy, Headlight, Ignition Signal & taillight circuits. There is already an ATC style fuse block in the MKII's that is probably still OK. On the 89, the ATC block holds the fuses for the Radio, Radio backup, Fan and Hazard circuits. I added a terminal block from O'Rielys for the Accessory hookups. I mounted to a piece of 1/4" UHMW (plastic) and fastened it under battery strap. This replaced the fuse block that was mounted under strap, so it maintained tension on strap. Attached picture shows added Accy block. Gary
  14. dingy
    Like they don't wear at different rates with integrated brakes. And one of the biggest hazards with linked brakes on an MKI is the anti dives are independent on the front forks. If you only use the front brake, only the one forks anti dive engages. Same with only use of rear brake. This was resolved with the electric anti dives on the MKII's Gary
  15. dingy
    This will be a good one. I do love a parade. I agree with SilvrT btw. Gary http://i1007.photobucket.com/albums/af193/gdingy101/kangaroo.gif
  16. dingy
    What you have refers to the diameter of the bolt shafts, not the nut socket size. It is useful if looking for a replacement fastener. Gary
  17. dingy
    Whoops !! Gary
  18. dingy
    Here are some pictures of what I did to mine. I moved it 2" rearward. [ATTACH]49568[/ATTACH] [ATTACH]49569[/ATTACH] Picture with and without filler. I had filler made by an Amish guy, cost $20. It needs to be removed so backrest can be slid forward to remove. [ATTACH]49573[/ATTACH] [ATTACH]49574[/ATTACH] Foam covered filler [ATTACH]49570[/ATTACH] [ATTACH]49571[/ATTACH] [ATTACH]49572[/ATTACH] Views of remounted rack. [ATTACH]49577[/ATTACH] [ATTACH]49578[/ATTACH] View of mounts. These were made from a 12" piece of angle I had laying around. [ATTACH]49575[/ATTACH] Closeup of relocated antenna mount and modified loop rod. Antenna mount was cutoff from behind the loop rod and welded forward of the loop rod. Antenna cable would not have cleared turn signal otherwise. [ATTACH]49576[/ATTACH] View of front bar on rack that was cut to clear air compressor. Front bar on rack would have interfered with air compressor, so it was cut out. Gary
  19. dingy
    As opposed to the $75 Yamaha relay. That would have been my choice. Would have been in by now & $70 cheaper. Gary
  20. dingy
    There probably is not much that can be done internally to repair it. The coil must be open, only if it opened at the solder connections, could it be repaired, short of rewinding the coil. Other possibility could be contacts arced and welded together. This might be repairable. Below is a picture of the internals of a venture style relay. The relay in the picture has a different contact configuration from the side stand relay. The one shown is a Normally Open configuration. The side stand is a Normally Closed configuration. Gary http://i1007.photobucket.com/albums/af193/gdingy101/relay3a.jpg
  21. dingy
    Out of curiosity, I just took some readings on my bike. With a digital Beckman 310 meter I read no AC voltage. I also checked it with an analog Simpon 260 meter. The analog measured 13 volts AC. I also checked it with 2 other analog meters I have with the same readings. I swapped out the rectifier with a spare I have with the same results. A rectifier typically will not give a true DC waveform if viewed on an oscilloscope. Normally there will be a pulsing waveform. This is shown in the picture below. If a smoother waveform is required, capacitance is added to the circuitry. Gary http://i1007.photobucket.com/albums/af193/gdingy101/3phaseregulation.jpg
  22. dingy
    I doubt that the relay is defective, it may be, but unlikely. Did you do the ohm meter testing outlined in post #32 on the sidestand switch, copied next? With an ohm meter, on the switch end of the connector, connect one lead to the black wire and the other lead to either of the other two wires. You should have 0 ohms with the side stand up and infinite ohms with side stand down. Reading should be the same between black wire & either of other two wires. If it is not, side stand switch is bad. If this checks out OK then test the relay next. http://i1007.photobucket.com/albums/af193/gdingy101/PICT0563.jpg The two terminals to the right side are the coil circuit, with an ohm meter these should read 100 ohms. The two terminals to the left are the contacts, with an ohm meter these should read 0 ohms. Energize the relay with 12v, polarity does not matter, using the two right contacts. Relay should click. If it does, the two contacts on the left should read infinite ohms while relay is energized. Gary
  23. dingy
    Pull the air cleaner lid off and remove the air filter. Start the bike. Look down into the top of the carb bank and rev the engine. Do all 4 air sliders move at about the same amount? These will retract into body as engine is reved. Gary
  24. dingy
    Don't have that one, I had an extra mid drive. Gary
  25. dingy
    You can, but if you take off with the stand down you may find 750 lbs of dead weight on top of you. Unlike the linked brakes, this is a safety feature I like. Gary
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