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dingy

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Everything posted by dingy

  1. dingy
    Todd, I have already placed the order a little while ago. I will let you know when I get them. Gary
  2. dingy
    I have a cover that I made from a tupperware container bottom that hooks under the two metal pull handles. Not real pretty, but functional. There are also marine grade covers that are available on ebay. These hinge up. Gary
  3. dingy
    Attached are a couple of pictures of the insides of a proportioning valve. Last picture is entire rear master. There are two rubber components inside the proportioning valve. If you delink the brakes, the proportioning valve is eliminated. Gary
  4. dingy
    Mike, First picture is of a stock radio setup. Second picture is of an aftermarket unit that I added, using the panel from the stock unit. This radio is from Wal-Mart. Cost $40. It has a plug in for a USB thumb drive and another for an SD memory chip. No CD built in, so it is not as deep as a radio with a CB. I had a unit with a CD player in it, but it had skipping problems due to vibration & mounting position. Gary
  5. dingy
    Todd, I will get the pins ordered from Ignitech this week. Sorry about taking so long to get them ordered. I will order some extras, as well. They have a really high shipping charge. Brian, If you can wait until I get the ones I am ordering, I will give you some. Gary
  6. dingy
    Tap Tap Tap Is this thing on ?? Gary
  7. dingy
    If you reply to them, then they have a verified email address for all sorts of othe spam. As tempting as it is to tell them to send me the check, it just verifies that the spam hit a good address. Gary
  8. dingy
    It will probably be the 4th fuse down from the ACCY terminals. A 20 amp fuse. Like ic23b said fuse block. The spring clips weaken and don't hold fuses tight. Tug on each of the glass fuses, any that are not tight on both ends need fixed asap. Gary
  9. dingy
    There was a thread on here about a month or so ago were someone had a side stand on both sides. I think this was due to his trailer and it was easier to park with either one. Gary
  10. dingy
    I was on a blood thinner last summer due to a pulmonary embolism. I started carrying a couple of cheap tourniquets I got the doctors office when I had my blood tested. Thought they might come in handy, with the blood thinners, bleeding is tough to stop. Gary
  11. dingy
    One other thing I neglected to mention is that if you are going to use an MKII clutch setup, you will also need to use an MKII crankcase cover for the clutch. The MKI cover is narrower than the MKII unit. The MKI will not bolt up due to the assembled clutch is thicker. This is because of the pressure plate. I learned this when rebuilding the bike this winter. I have a very nicely polished MKI cover that is sitting in a box because it is about a 1/4" too narrow. I had to use the cover from my MKII parts bike that was beyond the point of polishing. Powder coated it black instead. Gary
  12. dingy
    What are you using for a HP factor for the bike? Are you using brake HP for both or rear wheel HP? Gary
  13. dingy
    Is the starter engaging, trying to start ? If not, putting on center stand should makee no difference, unless you are leaving on side stand to warm up. Does bike shut off in nuetral when side stand is put down? Gary
  14. dingy
    Below are guides to cleaning the main handlebar switches on an MKII. Throttle side switch http://venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=42433 Clutch side switch http://venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=42721 Gary
  15. dingy
    I got both heads, cams & valve covers on Pinwall this spring for $300. Came from a bike with 17,000 miles on it. They where in great shape too. Heads won't help you though. Gary
  16. dingy
    I know the 83 are not the same as a VMax, I have 3 sets of 83's and they all match. They are not close to the VMax cams I have. Get valve springs also if you are going to replace cams. Don't know about fitting in a 99. Gary
  17. dingy
    Check the clutch switch first, couple of things happen at times with it. One is bushing gets worn and allows to much play. Second is switch can pop out of retainer and move back. Next culprit may be side stand switch, two ways to check this. First is to find connector for side stand switch behind left side cover near air ride damper. Split at connector and jumper all three wires together on bike cable side, this will by pass side stand switch. If this is the problem fix the switch, don't leave it jumpered. It's a safety thing. Attached is a PDF file showing the starting circuits for the MKII's Gary
  18. dingy
    I don,t know if this will help, but attached are a couple of pictures at the point where I put fuel tank back into bike & just before it went in. Also a couple with sub frame back on. Pretty much you need to remove the rear sub frame. Gary
  19. dingy
    The two connectors are on left side of bike near the hole in the black plastic shield behind the headlight bucket. There are two connectors, one has two large wires in it (Red one & Brown one) and the other has either two smaller wires if bike does not have CLASS unit (Blue one & Red with Black tracer). or three wires if it has CLASS unit (additional Red with Blue tracer) Attached are a few of pictures of the insides of a 1st gen key switch. Last picture is of switch mounted on a stripped 83 bike. The two bolts that hold the switch in place might be accessed from the bottom with a long extension. I think they are 12mm, but might be 10mm. The black carbon should be removed from switch. The easiest way would be to get some contact cleaner and shoot into key slot. This may not help though. There is no good drain path for the contact cleaner to exit from. Black carbon is an electrical conductor, it is not a good choice to put in an electrical switch. Gary
  20. dingy
    Doug, The long push rod shows the same part #'s from MKI's to MKII's. The outer push rod is different, I missed that. P/N is 36Y-16356-00-0. Part shark has them for $7.57 + shipping. You probably have one if one of your parts bike was an MKII though. Here is a link to the clutch mod. Known as Double D mod. It is detailed for a Vmax, but is the same setup in a Venture. http://vmax.lvlhead.com/tips/clutch.htm Gary
  21. dingy
    Try putting some duct tape over the new holes in the air box. See if that eliminates hesitation. I know the first gen's didn't react well when the air box was opened up. They would start & idle nice, but had similar symptoms as you are having. Gary
  22. dingy
    An 83 harness is completely different. Turn signal flasher relays, starter relay and fuel pump control circuit come to mind. 84 & 85 are closer, but still are some different connectors. Different fuel pump relay circuitry. A bike with cruise is different from a bike without cruise. This is due to the brake and clutch levers having different contact configurations and cruise connectors. I don't know if they made a separate harness number for the units that had CB's and CLASS systems as opposed to those that didn't. A Royale unit is different from the standard unit. Different instrument cluster connections. This is one of the short comings of the parts fiche. I have not found where they list part numbers for the upgrade options. Gary
  23. dingy
    That's one of the reasons I like this forum. Another mans failure is a lesson for all of us. Sorry it had to be you Mike. Gary
  24. dingy
    Just a note about checking amps. To check amps, the meter needs to be in series with the circuit. To check voltage, the meter is paralleled with the circuit. If you aren't sure about this, I could draw up a quick schematic to show how to measure current. When you are doing an amperage reading, remove the positive lead from the battery. Hook the red meter lead from the meter to the now empty positive battery terminal, and then hook the black meter lead to any and all wires that came off the positive battery post. To verify meter is functioning, turn the key on and turn radio on, you will see around a half amp or so reading. Have meter set on high scale at first then drop down to lower scales. Don't try the starter. Very few meters have a scale high enough to read the starter current without blowing a fuse. Starter will pull 100+ amps. If you have the need to check the starter control circuit, disconnect the positive wire from the starter itself. Gary
  25. dingy
    Doug, The clutch steel plates & friction discs are the same from the MKI's into the MKII's, I didn't check all the way through to the 93's though. The parts fiches for every year are on the site here somewhere, or I could get them to you.. So you could use your good set from the MKI with the MKII setup. The clutch boss's have different numbers. The main unit, the primary gear is the same, so you could use either one. You would need to use the MKII pressure plate. Someone on here would have an extra diaphragm spring as a lot of people have went to the PCW setup. I had one member give me his for shipping cost. So all it would take, assuming you have an MKII clutch main parts is getting another diaphragm spring. You mentioned a problem with your wrist I think, this setup is a harder pull than a stock 83 has, but it doesn't slip. I reused my 88 plates and discs as they all measured within spec. I used one full disc from my 83 clutch to replace the half disc. I start getting engagement when I let the clutch lever out about a 1/2" inch from full pull. Gary
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