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dingy

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Everything posted by dingy

  1. dingy
    Not that what you are saying is wrong, but it is like which came first, the chicken or the egg. A battery charged to maximum potential will on its own supply the requirements of the electrical loads. But once the battery voltage drops to a level where the voltage regulator is no longer shunting the excess current to ground, the circuit does not care where the electron flow comes from to supply its load requirements. The battery does flatten out the wave form that is coming from the voltage regulator, but this theoretically would happen any where in the electrical system. The voltage/current does not go into the battery as a rectified waveform, then leave again to supply power to circuits as a pure DC waveform. Also, disconnecting the battery while a vehicle is running allows the possibility of the charging system producing to much voltage and blowing out electrical components. The battery acts as a buffer to keep the charging system voltage at roughly 13.5 V. Gary
  2. dingy
    There is a hole in the master cylinder casting below where the switch lies, you will see a black tab on the switch. Press in gently while pulling on the switch and it should come out. Go easy as this tab can break. I had to tap and install a screw to hold my switch in place after tab broke. Here is a link to cleaning the switch. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=43024 Gary
  3. dingy
    Any one have a recommendation for a thin style digital camera in the $200 price range. I would like to get one that has HD video recording capability. I am not looking for an SLR type camera, would prefer the thin style, retractable lens would be fine. We have a Minolta Dimage X1 that has quit working. Gary
  4. dingy
    I was looking at the pinout chart in the manual. 2 & 11 are shown as not used in chart, but are used in his picture. There could be a discrepency in documentation. His main connector & the one shown in post #1 differ at pin #8. http://i1007.photobucket.com/albums/af193/gdingy101/ignitechcut.jpg Gary
  5. dingy
    Compare your module connector wiring to the wiring Todd posted in post #1. There are 3 extra wires in that photo for the map sensor that you won't have. If you still are having problems, I will look at my module tomorrow night. Gary
  6. dingy
    Couple of things seem odd on the main connector to the Ingitech module. Pin 2 shows as not used in the Ingitech manual and has a gray wire in your photo. Pin 11 shows not used and has a brown wire in your photo. Gary
  7. dingy
    TVKing63 is correct, the 90-93 ventures control the fuel pump directly out of the TCI on a Blue with Red tracer wire. The 83-89 units tie into the TCI output for #2 cylinder. When the key switch turns on the TCI then energizes all 4 coils. This also sends 12v to the fuel pump relay which then powers up for about 5 seconds. This 5 second power up time is controlled by an electronic circuit in the fuel pump relay pack. When the TCI fires the spark plug, the 12v is removed from the coil circuit, which causes the secondary to fire the plug. A TCI differs from a CDI in that CDI's energize the coil to fire the plug. Do not power the fuel pump directly from the Ignitech unit. You must use the stock relay circuit or you will damage the TCI. The fuel pump requires more current than the Ignitech unit can provide. Gary
  8. dingy
    Your wiring will look different from the MKI units. The 83-89 bikes had 4 pickup coils. You only have one. The fuel pump operation should not be changed with the use of the Ingitech unit. You do have the option of having the Ignitech unit control the fuel pump, but this would be a modification from the way it is supplied. TvKing63 gave you a link to the simplified version of the schematic, if you want the one with all the connectors shown, it is linked below. http://www.venturerider.org/wiring/90-93%20Yamaha%20Venture%20DA%20Wiring%20Diagram%20Rev%20C.pdf Also, since you have the single pickup version, your software will be set up different. Don't download any maps from here and upload into your module. You can download and copy the timing map from any of them, but the data will have to be manually entered into the TCIP4 software. Gary
  9. dingy
    I would disagree with this. A standard console has very different wiring from a Royale wiring. Shown in the two pictures in the second post of this thread is an 84 or 85 MKI Royale cluster. This can be determined by the cruise control light in the tach. Below are pictures of the back of the standard & the Royale clusters. Note the difference in the wire connectors to the CMU. Standard cluster is on the left. Gary
  10. dingy
    The graphics changed in 86 I think. This is what is silk screened to the face of the speedometer. The tach has a matching style of graphics on it. Any speedometer head will physically work from 83 to 93. I put my 83 speedo & tach in the 88 cluster I used when I rebuilt bike this winter. I wanted to keep the actual mileage that was on the 83 unit. Attached are a couple of pictures of the two graphic styles I am aware of. There is at least one more style of tach due to the cruise light in the 84 & 85 MKI's Gary
  11. dingy
    Are you checking coils per attached PDF cut from service manual ? You can also unscrew cap from coil on secondary wire and snip about a 1/4" off. Another thing to try since it will start when you bump it is to start bike using another battery right to starter. It may be your starter is pulling so much current that there is enough voltage drop that the TCI can not function when cranking. Do NOT jump from a vehicle that has the engine running. Clamp the negative lead from donor battery to any good ground, and touch the positive side directly to the starter positive post. Doing it this way only puts the donor battery power on the starter, it is separate from the bikes system. Gary
  12. dingy
    Did your son do this? How long has he been using PhotoShop? Gary
  13. dingy
    You can use any TCI from 84 to 89 interchangeably. They may have different part #'s, but they are essentially identical. Gary
  14. dingy
    Fixed them, that was a pain in the buttocks though. I ended up having to cut them out of an email. Cutting, then logging out of ebay, then pasting, would only allow 1 or the other to work. Gary
  15. dingy
    Below are ebay links to the two patches that were made relating to Yamaha's & RSV's First one has profanity in it that is blocked out in picture. Second one is a good natured rubbing at our RSV members. Intended for the 1st gen owners. Each are $3.95, including shipping. Gary [ATTACH]50588[/ATTACH] http://cgi.ebay.com/3-5-Embroidered-Patch-Biker-Humor-Black-Yamaha-/230529337404?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item35ac9e883c Ebay item # 230529337404 [ATTACH]50589[/ATTACH] http://cgi.ebay.com/3-5-Embroidered-Patch-Biker-Humor-Faster-than-RSV-/230529337362?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item35ac9e8812 Ebay item # 230529337362
  16. dingy
    This will vary from bike to bike depending on the load on battery already. To determine load you will need an amp meter capable of reading about 40 amps. Start the bike. Do not start bike with amp meter hooked up. Having bike running includes TCI power draw. Disconnect positive leads from battery, put positive lead from meter on positive post of battery. Hook negative lead from meter to all cables that were attached to positive battery terminal. Disconnect the stator from the wiring harness. This eliminates charging to battery. You should now be able to read on the meter the amount of current that is being pulled from battery. Reading should be a positive reading due to hook up of leads described above. Turn on all accesories & lights to get a full current load for bike. This reading would be subtracted from the rated output for the charging system for your bike. This number can be found in the service manual. Gary
  17. dingy
    Below is link to wiring diagrams on this site. The ones with "Simplified" in the title do not show the plug connectors in the wiring harness. They are much easier to follow than the full wiring diagrams. http://venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=42358 Gary
  18. dingy
    Does the same thing on mine. At first it was a concern. But I have gotten used to it. Gary
  19. dingy
    Look at thread linked below for one solution to side stand bolt fix. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=48342 Gary
  20. dingy
    If you use a cleaner that is very aggressive, like starting fluid,, you run the risk of also removing the lettering on the outside of the switch housing. I do like to use starting fluid (ether) on the internals when dis-assembled, as it leaves no residue. Use with caution due to high flammability. Snapping the switch out may get you by for a few days, but it probably needs tore apart & cleaned. Gary
  21. dingy
    Below are links to write-ups detailing cleaning the switches on an MKII. Throttle side: http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=42433 Clutch side: http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=42721 Brake & clutch: http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=42720 I would not use emory cloth on the contacts, as it is more aggressive than I prefer. I use a scotch brite pad. Gary
  22. dingy
    I don't think I can do much more than the picture of the box they came in. Gary
  23. dingy
    I used a set from Wal-Mart. 4", 3 way waterproof. About $25. They will bolt directly in. You need to remove both fairing pockets covers to replace. Remove tank cover and then about 10 screws each side. Gary
  24. dingy
    A Royale unit is different from the standard unit. Different instrument cluster connections. Royale models have the gear shift indicator & stop watch functions at bottom center of instrument cluster. Gary
  25. dingy
    An 83 harness is completely different from later models. Turn signal flasher relays, starter relay and fuel pump control circuit come to mind. 84 & 85 are close, but still are some different connectors. Different fuel pump relay circuitry. A bike with cruise is different from a bike without cruise. This is due to the brake and clutch levers having different contact configurations and cruise connectors. I don't know if they made a separate harness number for the units that had CB's and CLASS systems as opposed to those that didn't. A Royale unit is different from the standard unit. Different instrument cluster connections. This is one of the short comings of the parts fiche. I have not found where they list part numbers for the upgrade options. Gary
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