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dingy

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Everything posted by dingy

  1. dingy
    90% of the time I have the set of stock pipes that I gutted out to the last baffle. I can swap them in about 15 minutes. Once I got used to them, I quit swapping. I have never had a louder bike, but the straight set seems to give bike some more power. Navigator likes quieter set, but she doesn't ride that much. Gary
  2. dingy
    None that I have noticed. I have about 6000 miles since I put them on. I have had the mufflers off a few times to swap between my quiet set and the straight pipe set and they were always tight. Gary
  3. dingy
    Below is a picture of one of the brackets bongobobny mentioned in previous post. Bracket is 1/8" aluminum x 1 1/4" wide. I can't get a length measurement or hole to hole distance. Top was rounded and bottom cut at angle to match horizontal line of muffler. Gary
  4. dingy
    The wheel ratio to the speedo cable is 3 turns of the cable per 1 revolution of the wheel. I have a spare wheel cable gear head that I verified that on. Reason I didn't use 5 LED's for the arrows at this point is I am planning on also putting in a series of lower wattage LED's that will light with the tail light circuit. I will determine if I can do that when I see what the circuit board configuration will be in the turn signal housing. I am unsure at this point if I will be able to have room for all the traces on the board to light the turn/brake LED's. There will be physical room, but the overlapping circuits may pose a problem. I originally intended on using dual wattage LED's, but that is proving to be difficult as I have to switch both the positive & negative side of the LED's, in different circuit paths. This is dictated by the configuration of the turn signal switch contacts. Due to the design of the turn signal switch, once a turn direction is selected, the switch outputs a continuous positive pulse and a momentary negative pule on different wires. The negative pulse is only for the duration that the switch is pushed right or left. The positive signal remains on until the turn signal is manually canceled by pushing in or down on the switch (depending on MKI or MKII). The cancel circuit over rides this constant on condition if the signal is not manually canceled. As it is now I am looking at about 25 transistor circuits to control front & rear lights, canceling & dash functions. I am hoping to use an eprom for majority of transistors with a 556 dual timer chip to control flash rate & self canceling. Self canceling will be determined by either distance traveled, time or a combination. Also possible is a speed increase over a given setting. The relay based version of the circuit indicates it is doable, but complex. Gary
  5. dingy
    On the 1st gen instrument cluster there is a reed switch mounted above the speedometer cable input. This reed switch senses the turning of the front wheel and outputs a signal to the cruise control & turn signal cancel circuit. Picture attached below. Does anyone know if this reed switch pulses 1 time per revolution of the speedometer cable or a different number? I don't have a spare cluster head to check for this, and don't want to dig into the one on the bike. I am working on a digital circuit to replace the flasher/hazard relays and the turn signal cancel circuit. I will use the count output by this reed switch to determine the distance the bike has traveled and use this input to cancel the turn signals at some distance traveled point. I know the front wheel circumference and the number of revolutions the cable makes per wheel rotation. With this info and knowing the number of times per cable revolution the reed switch pulses, I can calculate distance traveled. I am going to replace the bulb in the rear turn signal housing with 15 LED's arranged in a pattern that can produce five independent arrows circuits of 3 LED's each. Second picture below. These five arrow patterns will be sequenced to give the appearance of a moving banner in the direction of the turn. At this point I plan to light first the inboard arrow, then at about 1/5 second intervals light the next arrow until all five arrows are lit, then turn off the first arrow, then each of the other arrows at the same 1/5 second interval, until all are off. This will give a full sequence every 2 seconds. This sequencing will be repeated as long as the turn signal switch request is on, or the self timer cancels signals. Also, there will be a brake light circuit that will activate all the LED's steady in both turn signals when the brake is activated. If a left or right turn signal or hazards are activated, the brake light for the corresponding side in the turn signal housing, or both in case of hazards, will be deactivated allowing the side to flash. Center brake light will function as it does now. If I have room in the turn signal housing, I will also mount lower wattage LED's for tail light function. I have an analog (relay) circuit designed that will do the sequencing and brake functions using the existing outputs from the turn, hazard & brake switches. I will convert that design to a digital version which will be fairly compact and low power consumption. I am estimating about the size of a cigarette pack. This controller will also control front signals and dash indicators without the sequencing or brake light features. Gary
  6. dingy
    The tuner & amp have the same part #'s from 84 to 93 in the parts fiche. The 83 parts fiche did not show a p/n in the copy I have. It shows 'Unavailable" where the p/n should be listed. Gary
  7. dingy
    Working on a concept to put sequential turn signals on rear of bike. A series of pulsing LED arrows that work with the turn signals & hazards. LED's will be mounted in existing turn signal housing. Controlled by a digital circuit I am developing. Brake light will also activate turn signal lights and work in conjunction with turn signals. Gary
  8. dingy
    1st gen carbs are interchangeable as a set. Jets changed for the MKII's from 117.5 to 125 mains, and the pilot jets are smaller. Going to a set of MKII's from a set of MKI's would help power on the 1200's. Can't use anything but an 83 set on an 83 unless TCI is swapped due to vacuum port unique to 83 #2 carb. You can use an 83 set on later years. 2nd gen's would probably fit, but the venturi's are 2 mm smaller. Loss of horsepower. 1st gen Vmax's would also fit. Choke is different. Much bigger mains jets. I think venturi's are 1mm larger. Probably overkill unless cams are changed. Gary
  9. dingy
    Instrument cluster computer module. Gary
  10. dingy
    That is an unusual part number for a Venture TCI. TID14-10 10M-10 And the connector blocks look suspect from the top view. One connector should have 8 pins in it and the other should have 6 pins. The shorter slot is about half as long as the long one, which is not the correct ratio. 90 - 93 has same pin configuration, but with two empty pins on long connector.. It is not for an RSV, they have 3 connectors. May want to avoid this one. Gary
  11. dingy
    Unless you have owned the bike since it was new or knew the previous owners, anything could have been changed during the bikes life span and you would not be aware of it. To someone without the resources available from a source such as this forum, a TCI is a TCI. The connectors are the same. The bike will run fairly decent at mild throttle. The difference will be when the bike is run up towards its potential and the need for vacuum advance kicks in. The wrong TCI will give an inverted curve. This means that when the engine needs advance on the spark, due to the higher piston speed, the TCI will be retarding the spark. This will cause significant torque and corresponding horsepower decrease. Gary
  12. dingy
    Are you implying that you want an "Intelligent" system? This would be something along the lines of a tilt controller that sensed lean of the bike then actuated a set of hydraulic or pneumatic actuators to control the bike to side car attachment angle. Something like this would take a fairly sophisticated control system. I would think some sort of gyroscopic unit would be required. I would think that pneumatic system would be simpler than a hydraulic system. Control valves are smaller. It would be easier to find a pneumatic power system I believe that is compact enough. In general running supply lines is much easier than hydraulic. Tilt angle could be controlled with linear sensing actuators. These give a feedback to the control unit, depending on precise amount of travel. Would not be cheap. Gary
  13. dingy
    I have one person so far on Vmaxforum site wanting a set. Gary
  14. dingy
    In my humble opinion, if you were to get the box reworked for $75-$100, you would be better off to buy the Ingitech unit for $175 US + shipping. 2 year warranty. Much more robust TCI. You can use it for more than just TCI. Tach, Fuel pump, Vmax servo motor (maybe, I have an email to Ignitech about this pending) Fully programable advance curve, variable rev limiter, to seperate kill switch inputs (has theft alarm possibilities) With a 25 year old piece of electronics, one thing may be fixed, then something else could fail. It depends on your prospects for keeping the bike long term. Gary
  15. dingy
    If it is the standard "Jason" mod, it is a simple undo. You will need 3 rubber plugs that fit over the sync ports on the carb boots. (3/16" I think) Remove the 4 interconnected hoses between the carbs. Plug the hose that goes up to vacuum sensor into #2 (Left Front) carb intake boot. Plug three remaining ports on intake boots with rubber plugs. Gary
  16. dingy
    When I posted an the Vmax forum.net site about the group buy for the solid motor mounts SGN is getting together, one of the members there asked me if anyone on this site would be interested in a wiring harness he is making. Link to one of threads on Vmax site. http://www.vmaxforum.net/showthread.php?t=14155 The purpose of this harness is to allow the use of Coil Over Plug units in place of the standard ignition coils used on the 1st gens. The harness adapts from the venture wiring harness coil connectors to the COP units. It also has a resistor in it to match the expected coil resistince found on the Venture/Vmax bikes. The harness is $70, shipping $5 USA / $12 Canada , Mexico / $15 the rest of the world. Next in red is a cut from the post on that site. The conversion harness applies to all years of the first generation Vmax, The coils that you need to purchase would be Denso coils. Suzuki , GSXR's and Busa's have the coils that are the proper Ohm's resistance for these harnesses. I cannot say personally that all Denso coils have the same Ohm's resistance. I have not been able to check anything other than GSXR and Busa coils. Now My bike I have the Busa coils, I like them better because they are short. They are 5" in length and just clear the valve covers. Now some Denso coils on the GSXR's are 5 1/2" long. They just barely fit , clearing the frame when installing them on the rear cylinders. Generally you should not have to purchase coils on Ebay for anymore than about $45-$50. If you have an idea the length that you might want, Feel free to ask questions to the seller. Most will respond with the total length of the coil. If anyone is interested, contact me and I will coordinate purchase with him. This is done to help one of our Venture cousins and us out. Gary
  17. dingy
    Below is some more info on interchanging TCI on different 1st gens. Original thread is http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=50354&highlight=tci+numbers You can use an 84-89 box on an 83. You can not use an 90-93 unit. If you have a 90-93 motor, it only has 1 pickup coil compared to 4 on the 83-89 motors. It can only use a 90-93 TCI or the Ignitech unit. However, due to the 84-89 bikes not having the carbs drilled for the vacuum line, you can not use an 83 TCI on 84-89 bikes without drilling for the vacuum port. The bike will run with out the drilling, but not to maximum potential due to vacuum curve being inverted. To use the 84-89 TCI on an 83 bike you need to block the port on the carb bank where the vacuum line hooks to, which is above the throttle plates. Then the line will be reattached below the carbs to the rubber intake manifold. On the 84-89's there is a plastic restrictor to help smooth out the pulsing in the vacuum. It is not a valve, just a plastic tube with a small hole inside. It also serves to connect the two different size vacuum lines together. The vacuum sensor units are the same on all 1st gens. I was running an 86 TCI on my bike, but also have the original 83 TCI that I have also ran on it. It runs just as well with either unit. The bike has 83 carbs on it. I needed to change the vacuum hookup when changing between 83 model & 86 model. I am now running the Ignitech unit which is discussed in depth at the thread below. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=40414 Gary
  18. dingy
    Below is a cut from a previous thread that had TCI numbers in it. If the TCI is from a 1983 vintage,(26H serial number prefix) it must have its vacuum sensor connection above the throttle plates. Needs dual pick-up coils. If the TCI is from a 1984-1989 vintage,(41R serial number prefix) it must have its vacuum sensor connection below the throttle plates. Needs dual pick-up coils. If the TCI is from a 1990-1993 vintage,(3JJ serial number prefix) it must have its vacuum sensor connection below the throttle plates. Needs single pick-up coil. Gary
  19. dingy
    My last option would be laying the bike down. You will not stop any faster sliding on the ground. Once you lay it down, you are out of options. I hit a car head on in 78 on a 750 Honda due to my being unfamiliar with a road deep in the hills of Kentucky. I came up over a hill when riding with a large passenger (brother in law) which I was not use to having the extra weight. Right over the hill was a very sharp curve to the right. I made it into the curve, went left of center, and when I was bringing it back to the right lane, the rear wheel slid around, and the bike went down. I slid into an oncoming car And hit him. It was driven by an uncle that was going very slow, and had actually stopped before I hit him. I didn't have time to push away from the bike. I ended up getting two compression fractures in my lower back. One vertebra is down 35% and another is down 15%. We were only doing around 35 going over hill at the time. Curve was unmarked by signs. Another time, I laid another 750 Hoda down at 70mph when I hit gravel in a curve. That one I pushed away from and slid away from it cleanly. I still have the belt buckle I was wearing, carry it in my bike trunk as a remindre.. It is ground down about a quarter of an inch on one side from the slide. Gary
  20. dingy
    I put a thread on the vmaxforum.net site. Link is below. http://www.vmaxforum.net/showthread.php?p=160660#post160660 Gary
  21. dingy
    I have some pictures attached below that show various angles of the mounts when I was reassembling my bike this winter. This is to help show what is involved with changing them. The left rear and the lower left front appear to be the difficult ones. Gary
  22. dingy
    Steve, I will take a set. Gary
  23. dingy
    I for one do not feel offended. You will find that electrical discussions on here, along with oil and tire discussions generate some varied opinions. Myself, I have an electrical degree, have been trained in circuit level theory and trouble shooting of military aircraft in the Marine Corps, and have 15 years experience in maintaining and designing railroad electrical signal systems including electric traction locomotives. I also have quite a bit of experience designing safety circuitry for industrial equipment. As well I have a hobbyist interested in the electrical systems on our bikes. I have found that the theory side is always about the same, but the practical application of these varying fields often lends itself to interpretation by those involved. This board needs people that are involved and willing to contribute. Gary
  24. dingy
    I will agree with Goose on his description of the charging system. Much more eloquent than my first post. One reason that I disagree with PlaneCrazy suggestion that the charge current goes directly to the battery is the fact that there is no separate, direct path from the regulator/rectifier to the battery. The wiring harness is arranged such that the reg/rect just ties into the Brown feed wire from the ignition switch some where in the center of the electrical system (grid). If the battery's voltage (charge level) is low, it will draw from the "grid" excess current that the reg/rect is supplying. The reg/rect will supply current, depending on system current needs up to its threshold level, say 30 amps. If the system load requirements are less than this max output of the reg/rect and the system voltage is below the threshold optimum (approx. 13.5V) setting in the reg/rect unit the battery will absorb the excess current to return itself to optimum voltage level. Once the system voltage reaches the optimum level the reg/rect unit starts throttling back on current supplied to the grid by shunting the excess output from the stator to ground. If there is a demand from the grid that the reg/rect unit cannot handle, in excess of its 30 amp output, the needed current is then pulled from the battery to supply demand. This in turn reduces the battery/system voltage, then when the spike on the grid that caused the battery drain is removed, the reg/rect continues to supply full current until battery/system voltage increases to the optimum level. There is no logical way given a motorcycles wiring that all the current could go to the battery, then be dispersed to the grid. An aircraft may be different due to load isolators and relay switching. But there are some stringent safety concerns on an aircraft that are not economically justified to incorporate into a motorcycle. Gary
  25. dingy
    Bought a Sony Cyber-Shot DSC-W370 last night at Best Buy. $199.99 14.1 mega pixel 7x optical zoom 720 HD movie 3.0 inch screen Camera has a combination of features which made it appealing. It will take a series of shots about 1 second apart in 'Burst' mode. It can take a panoramic shot of 180 degrees in 1 picture. Below is a shot of a soccer field from on end to the other. I was standing about 15 feet from side line. It looks somewhat like a fisheye lens, but without the distortion. Has smile & blinking recognition. With the high pixel #, I am able to zoom in on the subject & crop the picture on my computer, without much degradation. Down side of large pixel count is the picture files are 4 to 5 meg in size when at 4320 x 3240 dpi. http://i1007.photobucket.com/albums/af193/gdingy101/00071sm.jpg
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