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dingy

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Everything posted by dingy

  1. dingy
    Ken, Are you saying all the rear end lights are functioning and these two wires are not attached? I don't see anything in the RSV schematic that would match these two wires with male connectors on them. Like Bkuhr posted, there is a blue & yellow wire going to tail/brake lights. But these two wires should be in a six pin connector. Gary
  2. dingy
    These will work on 1st & 2nd gens, 1st gen Vmax, FJR, Viragos. Please note this is an old thread. New thread for this order is at http://venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?threadid=54654 I will see posts in either one. Gary
  3. dingy
    Look up this item # on Ebay 110509092066 It is listed as a HD hidden antenna, but I don't think the antenna will know the difference between a HD or a Venture. Other than the smoother ride. $21.95 including shipping. Gary
  4. dingy
    All the diagrams I have posted are shown hooking into the existing turn & hazard switches with no modifications other than one jumper on hazard switch input that can be done in the wiring harness. I will need to cut & splice some wiring, but I don't see any way around that. The main problem is that the turn signal switch puts a constant 12v signal out unless it is manually canceled. This coupled with the actual initiation signal being on the ground side complicates this. Gary
  5. dingy
    Brian, Attached is a ladder logic diagram & a Boolean diagram for my relay circuit version. Don't know if they will help you any. The Boolean has the symbols hatched that are already on bike. These are also in AutoCad. Gary
  6. dingy
    Brian, Would the AutoCad files for the 83 bike schematics help you any? If they will, send me your email address and I will send them to you. I can convert to DXF if you have another cad program. Gary
  7. dingy
    I am sending an email out to buyer when I receive a paypal payment for wrenches, rather than posting on here. If you send me payment in mail, I will send you a PM if I don't have your email address. Gary
  8. dingy
    The wrenches are ordered. They said they would be ready by December 3rd. I will get them sent out by December 6th via US First Class mail. I have requests for 28 of them at this point. I ordered 50 pieces, so I will have some more available. Price will be $23 for US including shipping & $24 for Canadian including shipping. Other locations may be somewhat higher. From past experience, it takes 3 to 6 days for US deliveries and up to 3 weeks for Canadian deliveries. This will be around holiday peak shipping time, so time may be affected some. US deliveries I can track, but anything outside US can not be tracked. I will provide a delivery confirmation number when I ship US orders. For outside US, I will provide the customs #, but it isn't much use as far as I know. I have only had a problem with one delivery out of the 150 previous units, and I priority shipped a replacement to the buyer at my expense. I transposed a couple of numbers on his address, and package was returned to me with the wrench missing. I am now wrapping wrench in bubble wrap & using a padded mailing envelope. Wrenches are being laser cut out of 304 stainless steel. Gary
  9. dingy
    The relay version was my way of laying out the circuitry. I would like to convert this concept to a digital format. I haven't had the time to get very far with that. The 5v notation on the LED's will go away, I had planned on using 12v LED's. That is why I mentioned doing away with the R1 & R2 resistors. When I convert to digital, though I don't know if I will need 12v or 5v LED's. Circuit only shows one LED in each instance. In actuality there will probably be 3 or 5 to create the chevron pattern. I have a modified version of the circuit that does not require the slow pick relay function, but it eliminates the flasher from sequencing the bulbs out in the trailing direction. The yellow color in my rear end picture is from the flash, both the tail light and turn signal lenses are red. The relays can be made to slow release by adding a capacitor across the coil. The coil itself will act as a resistor. Cap value will be determined using specific coil resistance. Don't know how far I will get with this. I am working at a company that has a lot of resources for developing this type of application though. Gary
  10. dingy
    Here is a PDF of what I have at this point. It is still in a relay based format, as I have way more relay experience than digital. When trying to follow this, the five LED relays at the bottom need to be slow pick and slow release at about 200ms. It is fairly easy to do the slow release, but the slow pick is much more difficult with small relays. This version incorporates the existing wiring in the turn signal switch & brake circuits function. I haven't done anything regarding front turns. I was concerned about doing fronts due to the viewing angle of LED's might not lend itself to good visibility with the design of the front turn signal housing on my 1st gen. The R1 & R2 resistors are not needed that are shown. I would use 12v LEDs. Tail lights LED's are not completely shown in this version as they will just be separate LED's on an independent circuit. Timing shut down circuit is not shown. This would eliminate the stock turn signal & hazard relay. I was going to use the reed switch in the speedometer housing for a distance traveled input and a 555 chip for a timed input to cancel the flashers. Basic description is a turn signal or hazard request picks the request relay which starts the cascade pick of the LED1-5 relays at 200ms interval pick time each. Once the LED5 relay picks, it picks the Pulse relay which starts a cascade drop of the LED1-5 relays at 200ms drop time each. When the LED5 relay drops it drops the pulse relay which starts sequence over. The picking and dropping of the pulse relay every 1000ms would be used for the front flashers & dash indicators. There is a right & left brake over ride circuit to cut out the brake light if there is a turn signal in progress. Brake lights illuminate same LED's as turn signals, only not cascading. I have tried to design this circuit around the existing wiring in the turn signal switch. It is rather awkward to do since the turn signal circuit is sending a 12v positive signal to the circuit if the turn switch has not been manually canceled. The actual flashing is initiated by a 12v negative pulse when the switch is moved either left or light then released back to center. Hazards over ride turn signals with a constant 12v negative signal. Rewiring/reconfiguring the turn signal switch would be very difficult. Gary
  11. dingy
    Can't help you with location Frank, I don't have access to an RSV. Gary
  12. dingy
    The power from the fuse goes to one of the 6 pin connectors that goes to left handle bar switch, then it goes through the dimmer switch, then comes back from the handle bar to another 6 pin connector (blue one I believe), then onto the head light 3 prong connector. Gary
  13. dingy
    I am fairly certain that the $23 US & $24 Canada will cover them. They raised price on me on the last order after they had a good time study on running them. There is so little material in them that I don't see a significant change due to steel costs. Gary
  14. dingy
    Paypal works best for me. But other forms of payment will work as well. Try and remember to put your VR site user name in comments when sending paypal, It helps me keep track of who said they wanted them and who paid me. If you pay, you will defiantly get one without the user name, just helps tracking. Gary
  15. dingy
    On the simplified diagram, this color wiring color change is not real obvious. I tried to put the wire color near the switch when it changed, but you wouldn't realized the point where it changed unless you looked at the full schematic. There I did note at the connectors, the wire color on each side of plug. Also I have no way of knowing where in the harness the wire tie points are. In the headlight circuit for example, at some point the R/Y wire is tied to the L wire feeding the running/tail lights. This is a crimp connection somewhere under the harness covering. It should be between the left handlebar connectors and the sub harness E connector. This may also be the source of some problems. In this case, I doubt it is though, due to the R/Y wire is straight through. There are really only five main problem points that should affect both high & low beams if the tail lights are operating. 1st - bad ground for headlight bulb (this could be at the E sub harness connector, the front flasher ground is tied through this connection. If they are working, this probably is good. 2nd -bad head light bulb 3rd - bad dimmer switch 4th - bad connectors to left handle bar (power is in one and feed to bulbs is in other 6 pin connectors. 5th - bad head light connector If fuse is determined to be good, I would first try to put energy directly to bulb and verify it is working, preferably pulled from holder. If it is good, then take power readings at the two (6) pin connectors going to left handlebar. The Blue connector has a G (green - low beam) & a Y (yellow - high beam) wire in it. See if you have 12V+ on these. If not, check other 6 pin connector and see if there is 12V+ on the R/Y (red/yellow) wire. Gary
  16. dingy
    You really stuck your foot in it now. Good luck, my friend !! Gary
  17. dingy
    It appears from the schematic for the RSV that the headlight fuse also powers the front running lights and the tail light. If these are working, then you have power through the fuse. Below is a link to RSV schematics. The simplified version does not show all of the connectors that are contained in the wiring harness. Functionally, it is identical to the full schematic though. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=42357 Gary
  18. dingy
    Is anyone interested in getting a steering head bearing wrench. These will work on 1st & 2nd Gen's. It allows you to set pre-load on bearings per service manual specs. PDF of procedure to set pre-load is attached below for 1st & 2nd gens. The MKI manual did not list this procedure, but it is identical to the MKII procedure. I sold out of the last order I had for these this summer and have had a few requests for some more. Trying to get a feel for how many to order. PM me or post to this thread if interested. Here is a link to previous posts on these. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=45268 I sold about a 150 of them and everyone seemed satisfied with them. Yamaha version is around $80. If my price is the same as it was they will be $23 including US shipping. Canada will be $24. I would suggest any Canadians pay for priority shipping if they wanted them fast. I had some that took 3 weeks to get delivered to Canada. I sent one to Guam and it got there in 7 days. If you would like to pay at this time, I would appreciate it, have not been back to work for long, so it would help. I will order them in a few days, and ship as soon as I get them. paypal is gary@dinges.com If you don't have a paypal account, let me know and I will send mailing address. Gary http://i1007.photobucket.com/albums/af193/gdingy101/PICT5202.jpg
  19. dingy
    Dano, Here is a thread that shows what I did to a set of stock mufflers I had. Gives a much throatier sound and reduces the back pressure. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=48887 Gary
  20. dingy
    OK, I found his card. Does anyone have any pictures of the work he did this summer. I know Sleeperhawks mech posted some but they are in a group of about 1500, it would take a while to find them. Gary
  21. dingy
    Does anyone have the contact info for the fellow that was doing airbrushing at Don's MD in 2010? My cousin wants to get some work done on his HD. Gary
  22. dingy
    The Ventures do not have a relay for the horns. You are running the current for the horn through the switch in the handle bar. The purpose of the relay is to not run the full current through the switch. What you did will work, but not as well as the relay setup. Relay will allow horn current without overheating or causing a voltage drop. Gary
  23. dingy
    If you are saying that you removed the bolts holding the hoses to the air compressor valve body, then sealed them with bolts, then the system would have no air at all in it. Front end will be very soft, considering the age. It will probably bottom out. My 83 would raise up about 1" or so if it was empty when I aired it up. Progressive springs cured that. Rear end won't be much better. Is the CLASS controller on the right dash pocket powering up? Any error messages? Gary
  24. dingy
    Keep her away from the 2nd gen's should be easy. Just shift into 2nd !! Gary
  25. dingy
    Air horn addition is similar to the driving light, except in this case you will be switching the negative side of the coil. The stock horn button is on the negative (grounded) leg of the circuit. New wiring shown inside dashed lines. http://i1007.photobucket.com/albums/af193/gdingy101/airhornaddition.jpg Gary
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