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dingy

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Everything posted by dingy

  1. dingy
    I am working on a detailed description with drawings on the inner workings of the Anti Dive system and need some help. I have all the spare parts I need except for the inner fork tube. I could use some help from someone that has a disassembled 1st gen fork that could get me some measurements of the tube and maybe a couple of pictures. A partially completed drawing I am working on is shown below. I have even taken a spare outer tube I had and cut it open to get a better view of the cross section. Gary http://i1007.photobucket.com/albums/af193/gdingy101/tubelowerassy.jpg http://i1007.photobucket.com/albums/af193/gdingy101/ForkAssy.jpg
  2. dingy
    Below is a link to a thread that addressed this issue. I was having similar problems with my 83 at somewhat high speeds. I attached a spacer to the front grommet that seems to have cured the problem. It has been tested at quite high speeds and not come loose. About 3/4 of the was down in thread linked are some pictures. Snaggletooth's solution quite possibly will work, I quit trying after I did this. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=51760 Gary
  3. dingy
    Our old tree & new grand daughter, son & wives Gary
  4. dingy
    I checked an anti-dive valve. The path through the valve is closed (blocked) when the valve is not engaged. Gary
  5. dingy
    Where you been at Squeeze? You weren't on for about the last 3 weeks. You been into some weinershnitzel maybe? Gary
  6. dingy
    http://i1007.photobucket.com/albums/af193/gdingy101/atv-1.jpg
  7. dingy
    Dal, #1 From your profile, I am assuming you are not doing this to a Venture, since you list a 1978 XS750SE. I can not suggest a place to get 12V positive switched source on this bike as I am unfamiliar with it. #2 I have attached a BASIC wiring schematic to use a relay to switch the high low beam. You will need a relay with a #87A contact to do this with only one relay. If you can't find one, let me know and I can modify this circuit, but you will need two relays then. The 87 & 87A contacts are quite different in their functioning. The 87A contact and 30 contact are connected when there is no energy to the relay coil. The 87 contact and 30 contact are connected when there is energy to the relay coil. The 87 and 87A contacts are never connected under normal circumstances. #3 If you have a choice between a sub-frame ground source and the negative battery terminal, choose the battery terminal. I am not fond of sub-frame grounds, especially in 1st gen Ventures, due to the sub-frame is not bonded (electrically connected) to the main frame. It is connected through bolted connections, which could have painted mating surfaces, and be a poor ground path. #4 Generally, when wiring circuits, if you have a choice of wire color, it would be helpful if you restrict the use of black to ground circuits. At least, it would be helpful to a future owner if you would tag the function of added circuits in some manner, at both ends of the circuit. Gary http://i1007.photobucket.com/albums/af193/gdingy101/BasicHigh-LowBeamcircuit.jpg
  8. dingy
    16 gauge stranded wire is very adequate for a less than 15 foot run at 10 amps. It could safely be used for up to 15 amps. This includes the positive and negative conductors, when calculating the run length. Gary
  9. dingy
    I certainly hope the marines were not in their dress uniforms. I would not want them to get blood on them when they were helping that poor soul up. Gary Semper Fi
  10. dingy
    I have another batch of wrenches ready to go. If anyone is interested, info is in the first post in this thread. Also they will be in classified section. I will send an email with shipping info when shipped. I will be able to ship next mailing day after payment is received. Gary
  11. dingy
    The black dot that is shown on terminals 30 & 87 represents the internal contacts of the relay. There is nothing you will see on the outside of the relay that corresponds to these dots. I have used a Computer Aided Drafting package (CAD) to draw these schematics. There are several different ways of depicting a relay, but they all mean basically the same thing. This is just the one I am use to using. There will actually be a male spade terminal on the base of the relay, with the number of the terminal molded in the case. The black dot that is shown to the left of terminal #30 indicates a point where two wires are connected. This connection could be at the terminal going into the light, at the base of the relay or midway between. It is just a schematic way of showing a connection between two or more wires. The two black dots that are shown on the fuse just indicate some form of connection between the fuse and the wire going to it. This type of connection would depend on the style of fuse (glass tube or ATC). Technically, there is a connection where ever there is a ground connection, shown by the black arrow with three lines . In the case of the negative side of the driving lights, there would be two connections on the ground side, one at the light and one where this wire ties to the ground (frame, negative battery terminal or a ground loop in the wiring harness). Gary
  12. dingy
    A miracle, I don't think so. What happened was something corrected itself enough to give you the confidence to take a ride, and stop and have a beverage or ice cream cone. Then, when you go to leave, the nasty little gremlin will peek itself out and go Gotcha. Bike will not start, no radio, and you will stand there feverishly pumping the clutch lever till your hand goes numb to no avail. Keep looking, clean the battery connections, something was causing this problem, it is not the last time you will experience this. Gary
  13. dingy
    Not trying to pick nits here, but the picture is of a connector that is correctly called a High Resistance Connection, not a short. The purpose of the connector shown is to provide an electrical path through itself. The term Short is often misused when describing electrical problems. A short is an unintended path for current. It could be from positive to ground, or it could be from one positive connector to another normally unconnected positive conductor. Or, in the case of switched negative side wiring, it would be unintended current paths. The horn circuit is an example of switched negative side circuits on Ventures. The term Open means that a path for current that has been interrupted, or broken. A High Resistance Connection is an intended path for current that has a higher than normal resistance reading. When the flow of current passes through a resistive element, the by product of this is heat. In the photo, the heat generated by this high resistance connection is what damaged the plastic housing. The term High resistance, only means higher than designed, it may not be a thousand ohms resistance reading, but more likely in the 1-10 ohm range. Low enough to allow current to pass, while creating heat in the process. Gary
  14. dingy
    Only $29.99 + shipping. http://www.coolest-gadgets.com/20071123/motorcycle-engine-usb-hub-born-to-be-wild/ Or $39.99 + shipping. http://www.flixxy.com/motorcycle-engine-usb-hub.htm Second one must have more safety chrome. Gary
  15. dingy
    Below is a cut of the cover page for owners manual I referenced. Title page has a date of April 2002, 1st edition. Gary http://i1007.photobucket.com/albums/af193/gdingy101/OwnersmanualRSVfrontpage.jpg
  16. dingy
    Another common denominator point could be the main harness -E- connector. The Red/Green wire that feeds backup power to the Audio and the dash runs through this connector. The RSV schematics that I redrew are linked below if you haven't already found them. (Hyperlink in blue to schematics on VR site in tech library) I can not guarantee these are 100% correct, but they seem to be easier to follow than the official wiring diagrams Yamaha provides. The difference between the two main wiring diagram is the one titled 99-09 Yamaha Royal Star Venture Wiring Diagram Rev B.pdf shows all the connectors and the point to point wiring. The one labeled 99-09 Yamaha Royal Star Venture Simplified Circuit Diagram Rev B.pdf has had the electrical connectors omitted. This allows the related circuits to be laid out so the wiring is easier to follow. Electrically, they are identical, just in different formats. Gary
  17. dingy
    Below are two cuts from the RSV owners manual referring to an Odometer fuse. I do not have an RSV to verify this though, which Goose does. It is a common denominator in the RSV schematic I did. Though I can't determine the source of why I labeled this Odometer and not Backup. It would seem to provide unswitched power to the radio & dash, which would indicate its function is a backup supply. It appears to be in fuse panel #2. Gary http://i1007.photobucket.com/albums/af193/gdingy101/RSVodometerfuse1.jpg http://i1007.photobucket.com/albums/af193/gdingy101/RSVodometerfuse2.jpg
  18. dingy
    Check the Odometer fuse - 10 amps This supplies the radio & some, if not all cluster power. Gary
  19. dingy
    Another warm welcome for a new supporting member. Dan, Since you are still under the 5 year warranty, you would need to have the scheduled maintenance done, as Goose so eloquently penned above. This would protect you in case there was a future problem within the 5 year period. If scheduled maintenance is not done, Yamaha may be able to deny warranty service. If you are mechanically inclined, this procedure is something that can be done with reasonable skills and necessary tools. The odd tool would be the valve shim tool plus the required shims if any are out of spec. If you do this, or other maintenance yourself, keep records & receipts, which will protect you under the warranty. Do you know any history of the bike, such as service records. I believe there is a way to get them from Yamaha. This would give you an indication if the bike has been maintained per manufacturers recommendations by a Yamaha dealer. Gary
  20. dingy
    The 83-85 Ventures are known for having the TCI go bad. There are 8 barrel diodes that deteriorate and cause an unrepairable failure of the TCI. About only way to tell if this is the problem is to remove TCI from bike and open it up. Below is one of many threads dealing with this problem. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=51767 And if you do determine that it is the TCI, a better option than buying a used TCI that may be bad or soon going to go bad is detailed in next thread. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=40414 Gary
  21. dingy
    The only viable option would be to machine a different pulley for the cruise/cable junction box. On the cable junction box, it would require that the throttle side pulley be reduced in size to reduce the amount of rotation at the throttle and give greater travel at the carbs. Changing the carbs would be possible but probably much more difficult even if there was room. The swing arms on the carb would both have to be reduced in size. Changing the throttle end is probably not possible given the size constraints of the housing. Doing this would then require greater force at the throttle due to the pulley relationship change. The carb return springs could be modified to reduce this increase in force at the throttle. Gary http://i1007.photobucket.com/albums/af193/gdingy101/ThrottleLinkage.jpg
  22. dingy
    I have compared the 86 Venture carbs parts list to the 86 VMax carb parts list and they are very similar. Jets and choke setup are main internal difference. All the parts that come in the rebuild kits are the same. Gaskets, O-rings, etc. Gary
  23. dingy
    Does the clutch have notching on it that will match a notched belt? If clutch is not notched then you can't use a notched belt. There would be less than 50% contact surface area between a notched belt and an non notched pulley, which would slip for sure. Gates has a wide selection of notched belts & pulleys I have used quite a bit on conveyor designs. Also have hub sizes to fit about any standard shaft. http://www.gates.com/index.cfm?location_id=534 Gary
  24. dingy
    Tim, VMax starters went to a 4 brush set up in 1990. 85-89 were 2 brush starters. Gary
  25. dingy
    Here is a web link showing the building of the infinity mirror. http://www.infinitymirror.net/ Basically there is a series of lights sandwiched between a regular mirror in back and a pane of glass in front. On the front glass, there is a film of reflective window tint on the inside. This can be seen through from the outside, but acts as a mirror on the inside to reflect the lights back and forth with the rear mirror. Constructed frame is 2" thick. I used a string of 60 LED lights, cut in half. 30 lights around the inside perimeter. 8 lights on top and bottom and 7 on each side. All the wiring for the lights is concealed in the frame. The ones I am making are similar to the first picture on the web link. I have created drawings detailing what I am doing if you want them. Takes a table saw to make sides. A dado blade is helpful. Drawing below is from back, without mirror, back cover and one side removed. Wiring is not shown complete in this drawing. Gary http://i1007.photobucket.com/albums/af193/gdingy101/assembly.jpg
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