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Jinksy4

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  1. Jinksy4
    Thanks for the input - not going to worry about sealing it. Yes n3fol - that is a carbon one adapter - works well - great investment. Heard that we are to have sun and around 80 degrees this weekend in central Illinois - need to be ready to go!
  2. Jinksy4
    Folks, The manual calls for sealant on the 2 mating surfaces of the final drive and the drive shaft tube, but it did not look like any was on mine when it was disassembled. What sealant do you use when reassembling, if any? Is there something other than the Yamaha brand that would work if you do seal those surfaces? Thanks
  3. Jinksy4
    My best is about 750 miles on any given day - even when I was younger (you all know the seats on the Kaws and Honda's in the late 70's were not that comfy). One time I took a boat flotation cusion and strapped in on the seat of a 1000cc Kaw LTD and went from Peoria Illinois to Oregon and back - it helped a little, but not much. Met an older couple on a GW in the early 80's that watched me peel myself off that Kaw at a rest stop and they introduced me to the "100 + 10" rule. 100 miles and get off for 10 minutes to exercise. The reasoning was to get the blood moving in your butt and legs. He was a doctor and cautioned me that the older we get the easier it is to get blood clots when in a sitting position for long periods of time. Was all I needed to hear and have pretty much done so ever since.
  4. Jinksy4
    Thanks for the info - will follow up on it and see what I got to deal with.
  5. Jinksy4
    Hey Folks, Just changed what I think are the original plugs on my 2000 RSV with 12,000 miles. Bike ran great all last year since purchasing in 6-08 with 5,000 miles. Question is the left rear plug is fouled. I don't know if it is a problem or not - so I took a few pictures and would like to have some experienced feedback. Also, the left rear carb has some oil residue where the intake attaches to the carb. Cleaned out the air box - wasn't much oil but appeared to have pooled when the bike is on kick stand. Could that be the problem? Thanks
  6. Jinksy4
    Good Catch Goose! The tires I bought were "Venoms". Get the snake stuff mixed up. This is a copy of my order: These items have shipped or are in the process of being shipped: Product DescriptionPriceQtySub Total 150/80H-16 (71H) Avon Venom AM41 Front Tire Part# 1245460006 142.991$142.99 150/90HB-15 (80H) Avon Venom AM42 Rear Tire Part# 1245550008 147.991$147.99 Torq Can Koozie Black Part# 1072550001 1.491$1.49 Plexus Plastic Cleaner, Protectant and Polish 13 oz. Part# 1247260002 11.991$11.99 Sub Total: $304.46 Gift Certificate: $50.00 Sales Tax: $.00 Shipping & Handling: $.00 Gift Wrapping Fee: $.00
  7. Jinksy4
    I purchased a set of Avon Cobra tires from the Jake Wilson catalog a month ago (for a 2000 RSV). They turned out to be about $125 a piece after receiving a $50 discount for ordering over $300 worth of merchandise (the tires were about $280 retail and so I purchased a can a windshield cleaner and a "koozie" for a can of soda to get to $300). This also included free shipping. At the time, it seemed like a good deal and I noticed today they have the same deal available. Go to http://www.jakewilson.com/specialoffer.do?utm_source=EmailBlast&utm_medium=Email&utm_campaign=summerspecials if you are interested. It's raining today, BUT, it's not snowing and it is getting warmer! Have a good one,
  8. Jinksy4
    Count on me too.
  9. Jinksy4
    Thanks - I think I will give it a try - been looking for a while.
  10. Jinksy4
    Since you all are talking about air pumps, thought I'd share what I received today with you from Harbor Freight: http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=4077&r=4469_121784 12 Volt, 250 PSI Compact Air Compressor http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/gifs/clear.gif Compact, easy to use and easy to store. High output 250 PSI motor Easy-to-read pressure gauge, PSI and BAR Built-in storage for 12V cigarette lighter plug 10 ft. power cord, 18" hose with valve adapter Handy on/off switch Comes with sports needle, two nozzle adapters Overall dimensions: 5-1/2" L x 2-7/8" W x 4-7/8" H Weight: 1.4 lbs. ITEM 4077-0VGA $7.99 $5.99 Probably a plastic housing. 12 Volt, 100 PSI High Volume Air Compressor http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/gifs/clear.gif Up to 300% more air than any compressor in its class Compact size makes it easy to stash in your vehicle Fully inflates car tires in less than 3-1/2 minutes 25 liters per minute air flow Gearless direct drive for quiet operation Overload protection Cast alloy air pump casing with cooling fins for quick heat dissipation Antivibration rubber feet Comes with 5 ft. coiled air hose, brass quick coupler, 10 ft. power cord with cigarette plug, three inflator nozzles and pouch; 15 amp fuse; Overall dimensions: 6-5/8" L x 2.8" W x 5-1/4" H ITEM 96068-3VGA $26.99 I like this one better. Jinksy
  11. Jinksy4
    Made the modification and it worked out fine - see http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=20293 . I even found the bracket you used at Menards. Also tried a different approach with an "L" bracket - didn't work out too well - was, in my opinion, just too stiff and might cause some cracking in the ABS - was also just butt ugly (see pictures). Thanks for a good write up on the subject. Jinksy
  12. Jinksy4
    That really give me a good picture of how the ground works. After I thought about what you said I went out and ckecked resistance from the front ground to the frame and the negative post of the battery and it was about 1 ohm. Wish I would have figured that out before making new wiring harnesses and taking the grounds back to the battery and engine. Sometimes I just got to laugh cause I can't kick myself in the butt. Appreciate your insight,
  13. Jinksy4
    Ya - I'd say its melting - sump pump sounds like a lawn mower in the basement. Be safe on that ride - weather still pretty unpredictable. Jinksy
  14. Jinksy4
    Ya - that is right up the road. Wife and I have discussed moving south - I did a lot of work in Dyersburg TN, Oxford MS, and Sumpter SC plus have family in Batesville MS. Getting to the age where these winters seem painful instead of fun! Don't blame you for not coming back. Jinksy
  15. Jinksy4
    Woke up today to 5+ inches of snow here in central Illinois. Was really wierd because it was classified as a "Thundersnow". Rain changing to snow with thunder. Didn't bother me too much because the bike is still dismantled. Good excuse though to get back into the garage and get at it because it is supposed to be 58 degrees tomorrow! Funny thing about the tear down - I was just getting new tires and then things got carried away! You guys have a lot of great mods for the 2nd gens and I've had a lot of fun learning about the bike. Jinksy
  16. Jinksy4
    Thanks for the reply guys. Did not understand what a ground loop was and had to do some research, but got it now. Jinksy
  17. Jinksy4
    I am not an elctrician and am learning from the information you folks have given me. To connect all the grounds to the battery post (as your last post said) - does that mean I would have to make a long ground wire and splice all the grounds (from the Stebel horn, front light bar, rear light bar, etc.) to that main ground and take it back to the negative side of the shunt on the battery negative post? Thanks for your input, Jinksy
  18. Jinksy4
    Hey Folks, Got the RSV tore apart doing some maintenance and adding a few things. I have installed a fuse block, front and rear modulators, front fork air pressure balance kit, speed bleeders, fresh fluids, a Stebel horn, lubed the rear suspension (except for the swingarm bearings - will get that at next tire change), put new avons venoms on, tightened the stearing head, and rewired the light bar so that it is on when the dims are. Have yet to install a rear led light strip and the Kisan ChargeGuard. My question about the kisan is they state in their installation instructions that all the ground wires should be connected to the copper shunt on the neg post of the battery. Does this literally mean all the wired grounds on the bike? I have grounds located on several places on the frame. Do I have to rewire so that they are all connected to the shunt? This is the installation information from the Kisan site: CURRENT SENSOR The Current Sensor is an Integrated Copper Shunt, which mounts on the NEGATIVE (Ground) battery post. Shunt is rated for 100 Amps MAX current The power wire attached to the shunt must be connected to the positive battery post or a 12v source. INSTALLING CURRENT SENSOR: Remove ALL cables from the NEGATIVE (Ground) post of the battery. Attach ALL ground cables to the shunt as shown here, with the nut & bolt supplied. Now you can re-attach the other eyelet of the shunt on the Ground post of the battery, using the original bolt. Note! The orientation of the Left/Right eyelets is important to keep correct Input/Output of the current flow. Thanks in advance for all the help, Jinksy
  19. Jinksy4
    Thanks folks for hanging in there on this thread. A lot of good information has been shared and I finally get it about how the oil seal is described and located on the drive shaft schematic. The oil seal part number is: 93108-23007-00 Which has been updated to: 93108-43013-00 Jinksy
  20. Jinksy4
    Sorry for going on and on about this - If I understand the schematic correctly, it shows #33 being assembled in front of the snap ring (35) on the punkin end of the drive shaft - and it shows that we need only one #33 oil seal - wouldn't it show that we need (2) #33's for both ends? Jinksy
  21. Jinksy4
    Ya Ponch - I do - thanks. Could not find the part # on any of them - just showed the seal at the opposite end of the drive shaft. Even went to the Yamaha Dealer and their fiche showed the same thing. They said that the seal for the pumpkin end is at a higher level of assembly and would be included with buying a new drive shaft! I walked out and ordered the seal on line. Jinksy
  22. Jinksy4
    Thanks to both you and Ponch for posting the part # for that dang seal. I could not find it listed or shown anywhere - Have Clymer manual and checked several on line listings. Can get back to work now.
  23. Jinksy4
    Thanks for your information. Could you tell me what the part # is for the drive shaft oil seal you replaced in the picture? Thank again.
  24. Jinksy4
    Bryan - that's the trouble I'm having. The oil seal is not listed on the Yamaha parts schematic that shows the drive shaft end that fits into the gear coupling in the differential - it shows the snap ring but not the oil seal or the washer that butts up against it. GeorgeS has listed part #93101-38098-00, but did not know if that would work on my bike - 2000 RSV with 8000 miles. Am I missing something?
  25. Jinksy4
    My experience was the same on my 2000 rsv with about 8000 miles on it. Could you remember what the oil seal's part number was. Can't find it on any of the manuals and web sites. Thanks in advance, Jinksy
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