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Jinksy4

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  1. Jinksy4
    Yesterday managed to ride to the south and north rim of the Grand Canyon. It is a 203 mile trip but they are only 60 miles apart – it Is a great ride. The south rim has more great views of the canyon, but the north rim is more fun to get to. There are mucho twistees and a lot more wildlife – which you need to really watch out for - especially later in the day. Met some folks from New York on a Harley that had been on the rode for 3 weeks! Ended up the day heading into Utah to find some dinosaur fossil beds. Today was another great ride. Did 400 miles through high desert, mountains, and hot valleys. Reached my detination of Varnal, Utah at the edge of the Dinosaur National Monument. Drank about 1.5 gallons of water to keep from drying completely out during the day. Have some great pictures to load up when I get home.
  2. Jinksy4
    I will have to get it next trip - a lot of folks have said the same.
  3. Jinksy4
    Had an opportunity to deliver a Ford Ranger to my son in Las Vegas and decided that this would be a good excuse for a ride. The Venture fit in the short bed - well most of it - about 10 inches hung out on the tailgate. Anyway, got it there in one piece, except for a 3 corner crack in the left front lower fairing - had to get some plastic epoxy to fix that - not good as new but good from 6 feet. First time for cruising the desert and what an experience. Cool mornings, fierce hot days, and cool to cold nights. The colors in the Mojave as the sun sets are incredible. Had a talk with some rangers before heading out and they gave me a lot of valuable information. The suggested I have a NASA silver blanket for emergency cover from the sun, where long sleeves and pants to not get sunburn and loose too much body moisture, take 4 gallons of water for a 24 hour period, have someone expect a cell phone call at the end of the ride so they can notify authorities if you do not check in, take a tire repair kit and pump (had that covered), and a full tank of fuel of course. Folks don't realize that you could die in 5 hours without proper hydration and protection from the sun. The temp reached 118 F at about 2 in the afternoon. I travelled at about 70mph to not put the bike in too much of a strain because you tend to smell things getting hot, especially when the cooling fan comes on - which it does and then does not stop until you climb 3 or 4 thousand feet and drop 20 degrees. Met a few folks on Harleys but they did the too cool to talk bit..... so I just left them. You could smell those air cooled twins from 10 feet! It was a good day.
  4. Jinksy4
    Thanks for all the input. Today I did a shotgun approach mostly from frustration. Jacked the bike up and made sure the front wheel and rotors were running true. I put 40psi in the oil leaking rear shock (ordered a Works replacement shock today), put 42psi in the front tire, put 45psi in the back tire, 2psi in the front forks, and tightened the steering bearing tighter. Went for a ride and it was 95% better. I don't know what caused the improvement, but I suspect the bearing adjustment was probably the inititial cause of my problems since I have little experience with fine tuning it (although I have adjusted it before with good results). Anyway, I have a day ride tomorrow with my brother and his Harley. Just hope the shock is done leaking before we leave - hate to leave more fluid on the ground than a Harley!
  5. Jinksy4
    Good point - but I have a Harley hand pump and never put more than 30psi in rear and 2psi in front.
  6. Jinksy4
    Air pressure is good. I agree if it were out of balance or out of round it would get worse at higher speeds - wierd.
  7. Jinksy4
    Bearings ok - will check the rotors - had not thought of that. Thanks,
  8. Jinksy4
    Hey, Thanks for the input. When this first started I removed the front wheel and took it to a local bike shop that specializes in drag bikes. They checked the balance, roundness, pressure, and bearings - they were OK. They suggested it might be something in the rear wheel causing it to feel like it was coming from the front. I didn't think that sounded possible at the time. But......Yesterday there was an oil puddle under the bike with a steady drip coming from the shock. Could this documented problem also be the reason for the "thump" or do I have 2 different problems now?
  9. Jinksy4
    Hey Folks, Need a little help. In May of 2009 I put new Avons on my 2000 RSV (with about 17,500 miles on it and 4000 on the tires) and tightened the bearing for the front fork (bike had a low speed wobble problem). It has since developed an out of balance feeling in the front end that creates a "thump" at low speed that can be felt in the handle bars - kinda what you would feel on a "washboard" gravel road – but I’m not on one at the time. Had the front tire checked for balance and normal wear and it was OK. Have tried different tire and front fork air pressures with no change. At highway speed I can't feel anything. The weird thing is that some days it doesn't do it - or at least as much - maybe it is temperature sensitive? Didn't go to Vogel because I'm not sure what this is - kinda bummed about that. Anyway, any thoughts would be appreciated. Thanks,
  10. Jinksy4
    Didn't see those roads listed as closed today but they say the river is flooding in that area. As per http://www.dot.il.gov/road/closures.txt
  11. Jinksy4
    This was cool. Bought 2 bottles of Snapple (on sale - $2), got 2 rubber stoppers at Lowes (needed size 6 - they didn't have it, took size seven and ground it down to fit - couple $'s), bought 10 feet of 1/4 inch copper refrigerator ice maker tubing at Menards for about $5 (couldn't find any lesser amount for less money), bought 10 feet of clear hose for about $4 at Menards, and used green food coloring in the water. First time to try to sync carbs and had a great time learning. Found out why my #1 cylinder was probably running rich, it was totally out of sync with #2 (snapple jars swapped water in a hurry.) Also found out that the adjustments are very sensitive and require very little movement of the screws to make a big difference in the manometer readings. In addition, found out that you need to wait for the bottles to settle before making additional adjustments. Make adjustments before you get a true reading and you screw things up pretty fast. Next time I will probably use clean motor oil - the water at idle is pretty turbulent and you have to kinda read between the ripples to find the level. Crack the throttle and it is clear as a bell - no ripples. Oil would probably react much better. Might also put a tee in the 2 lines from the bottles and create 2 other lines for cylinder #3 and 4. Then just clamp off lines as needed to get the readings without moving the bottles or shutting off the bike. It will be interesting to see how close I am to being in sync against someone's professional measuring tool. The bike sounds much better and starts much easier. Found that carb syncing is similar to running a twin screw boat. When you sync the props at cruise and on plane, the harmonics of the engines just come into such a sweet sound, everything stops vibrating, and you just hear the power transfer. Anyway, thanks BigBoy for the information. It was worth the overspending by $3.
  12. Jinksy4
    Here are the pictures (see below): I have to change my observation about the spline wear on the pinion end of the drive shaft. The nearly new shaft (less than 100 miles) has machine finish on the top of the teeth and in the root. I thought they might have been ground when new and that would make the wear appear even worse, but some of the wear comes from wearing off the top of the machine marks. What I thought was cracking on top of the tooth is actually the original finish. I think the original drive shaft is suffering from tooth wear only - it wore past the heat treat depth into the soft flesh - no cracks - still junk though. The pinion looks pretty good - I could not see any cracks, knicks, noise before disassembly, or deep wear depth in tooth face. It is wore to a shine on the tooth only. Need to know what a new one looks like to make sure on the wear, though. The coupling looks good also. It appears to have even wear, if any, with what I can see. Many have stated that you should put a light coat of Moly 60 on the teeth and with mine at disassembly, it looked to have a heavy coat of grease that could have plugged the lube holes in the back of coupling - causing the drive shaft spline wear. Any thoughts about any of this - from anyone?
  13. Jinksy4
    Gunny - thanks for the offer. Trying to make sure if I need one or not. Will let you know pretty quick - I hope. I am amazed at the amount of help this site offers - bunch of good people.
  14. Jinksy4
    Rick - Thanks for the input. The final drive was not making any noise, that I could tell, before disassembly - that's what is making this episode so weird. I can see some wear marks on the pinion, but it doesn't look bad. I am going to try and get some pictures of the gear coupling wear tomorrow - doubt that I can get a good shot of the pinion. It rotates smooth with no binding or grating, but probably wouldn't make noise without a load. Is your concern with just the condition or wear of the pinion or a combo of things in the drive?
  15. Jinksy4
    Thanks so much for the offer. Just got mine in today - found it on ebay from Pinwall Cycle Salvage for about $35 to my door. Came off a 2008 with less that 100 miles and by its looks, I believe them. Hang on to yours - may need it in the future the way things are going. Thanks again - way above and beyond the call.
  16. Jinksy4
    Was rereading the thread and happened on your advise that I should replace the gear coupling (cup) - must have missed that first time through. Took a quick look tonight and it doesn't look bad and their was no noise in the differential before teardown (but my pipes are kinda loud). Will take a closer look tomorrow and take some pictures for some more feedback - thanks for the help.
  17. Jinksy4
    She is pretty special - she loves the bike - but she doesn't really like to ride much - she is good for about an hour. I have to get the headsets so it is easier to have a conversation - I'll bring that up tonight and see if I can keep the momentum going my way - it's risky but I'm up for the challenge!
  18. Jinksy4
    Like I said - its not my birthday but something wierd happened a few weeks back. Was trying to convince my wife that WE need to get a new Clearview windshield, explaining all about how She would have a better ride, and I would have better protection, etc. - and she said go ahead, You deserve it!!!!!! Thirty seconds later I had it ordered and today - UPS says they will deliver - and that makes it my Birthday (not)!!!
  19. Jinksy4
    Thanks - great explanation.
  20. Jinksy4
    You might want to order a new oil seal (part # 93108-43013-00) if you pull the shaft from the differential. Mine was destroyed during disassembly and had to wait 6 days for the dealer to get them in - ordered 2 to have a spare. Also, a lot of folks have advised greasing the lip of the seal at assembly to help prevent destroying it at the next maintenance interval.
  21. Jinksy4
    I agree with the 60% moly - have it and using it. Was lucky to get a shaft off a 2008 with under a hundred miles from Pinwall cycle on ebay for about $35 shipped to me by 4-24. The front splines look new - wierd - they had some real dirty grease on the splines at disassembly. Thanks for the input.
  22. Jinksy4
    Hey Eck, Thanks for the input. My main concern are cracks at the top of the tooth - it looks like cracked scale, but under magnification are cracks (pictures barely pick it up). Also, again looking at the top of the tooth you can see the uneven wear across the tooth - thinner in the middle. Are you saying that folks will continue to use a shaft with this type of wear? When do you normally replace the shaft from wear?
  23. Jinksy4
    Started to put my bike back together today and got a little surprise. I had not bothered to clean the drive shaft or differential when I removed it several weeks ago because I didn’t expect anything to be wrong with them after only 12,000 miles with no apparent symtoms. Cleaned the drive shaft with brake cleaner, scrubbed it good with scotch-brite, hit it with brake cleaner again, and blew it off with the air gun. Got out the magnifying glass and found it to be a piece of junk. I have some experience in metallurgy and expected to see a wear pattern on the teeth, not cracks, chips, and uneven wear. When I removed the differential drain plug to flush it out with new fluid I found it covered with shavings. The gears in the differential look good. I got the bike last year with a few thousand miles on it and put an additional 7,000 on it. I suspect this 9 year old bike has never had any maintenance done before I picked it up – regardless what the last owner said. Has anybody had this experience or seen a drive shaft with this kind of wear? (see attached pictures)
  24. Jinksy4
    Hey! Can anyone explain the difference between a CD and TC ignition system? I am looking at an alternative tach and the manufacturer (If you are interested): http://autonnicmanufacturing.com/Home_files/Page1237.htm said theirs would work on a 4 cycle, 4 cylinder engine if it were not a CD system. Manual says 2nd gens have a TC digital system. Just wondering.
  25. Jinksy4
    I like to put some "removable" type thread locker on just about anything I loosen up - except for where it calls for the "permanent" type.
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