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RSTDdog

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Everything posted by RSTDdog

  1. RSTDdog
    At the rate Yamaha is going, we will be very lucky if we even see a new Venture based on the current V-Max V4, much less engineering in two extra cylinders.
  2. RSTDdog
    Its a roll (spring) pin, Item 20 under cylinder head on the Fiche, goes through the end of Item 24 identified as Joint. The joint has some Orings on it, not sure what its for, Probably forms or seals an internal passage, but there is no hose that gets attached there. The pin keeps the joint from popping out of the head. See pic and see if #20 is what you are talking about. Its the only thing inside of the spark plug toward the head. I remember seeing it when I changed my plugs. There is one on the left rear also. Have to look in the SM to see what the passage/joint is for. Oil or coolant I imagine. RSTDdog
  3. RSTDdog
    Good deal. You'll probably find going direct to the battery and using a relay that they should be a tad brighter as well. I like to use the Marine grade wire that is stranded and tin (I think ??) coated copper. Anyway when you strip it, it looks silver and not copper. Less prone to corrosion at the connection points.
  4. RSTDdog
    Originally Posted by flb_78 http://venturerider.org/forum/images/buttons/viewpost.gif I had a 130 on for a while. It was OK in town, but at highway speeds, it wanted to wanted to wander all over the lane. While I have not had a 130 tire mounted to the stock 16" front rim, I can say that the 130 70R 18 on the 18" Stratoliner front rim on an RSTD does not wander all over the lane.
  5. RSTDdog
    Pinwall Cycles (on ebay)will have the parts from time to time but they can be pricey and are watched all the time. Still cheaper than new parts, but there are also other salvage dealers on ebay that also get these parts from time to time. Most of those don't have stores and just start listing the parts. Diligent searching on a regualr basis should turn them up for you. Depends how big a hurry you are in to find them. RSTDdog
  6. RSTDdog
    As far as mixing bias and radial tires, Yamaha does it on the Stryker and raider models. Radial rear, bias front. (Pointed out to me by FLB78 and verified at Yamaha's website) What you shouldn't do is mount a bias tire on a radial design rim and vice versa. Some where I read the bead profile is different between the two. With respect to mixing brands, I don't think this is an issue on these bikes. You are grinding the front floor boards on these bikes long before you reach the limits of the tire. I think the steel frame flexing, suspension wallowing and other issues will rear their ugly head long before some difference in tread compounding (likely there to prevent patent lawsuits) from running different name brand tires will be a major issue. So Far I have run the Original Commander rear with an E3 front in the stock size for 2000 miles 1300 of those on a round trip from ATL to Indy via the Dragon, Cherohola, and other twisty roads between with no ill handling. The aforementioned floorboard grinding is the most disconcerting thing I have experienced handling wise. I am now running the original commander rear (near the wear bar in the center and need of replacement)with a Stratoliner 18" front rim and 130 70R 18 Bridgestone radial. Ran that combination last year in New England for 1100 miles also with no ill handling. I have been looking at the new Commander II for the rear. 130 70R 18 front is the same as a Wing, and Michelin doesn't make that either. But the Avon and E3 tread patterns are very similar to the C II so I'm thinking either of those would be a good a match. And for the disclaimer: This my personal experience YMMV. I am not an engineer of any sort, Tire, Motorcycle or other wise. I am cognizant of the lower load ratings associated with tires that aren't OEM and every one who varies from the OE tire size should as well. RSTDdog
  7. RSTDdog
    I did not have the fender rack long. I liked the solo look, but my wife rides with me more often than not, and I just didn't want to keep switching back and forth. That being said, I have noticed on my bike (its a Midnight), you really have to stay on top of the chrome. There are parts on the bike like some of the brackets under the headlight and similar parts that have a chrome finish, but the bracket part the chrome is more like overspray and that gets rusty before the rest of it. Spots I can't reach to clean/polish frequently without dissassembly like the center of the chrome covers on the valve cover on my bike have some mild pitting. RSTDdog
  8. RSTDdog
    I Can't find any deals like this currently. Need a new rear tire. Anybody know of any?
  9. RSTDdog
    Agreed. Had a similar problem with the headlight circuit on a suzuki. 12volts up to the headlight connector, plug in the connector- O volts and no headlight. Turned out to be a bad connection in the headlight circuit through one of the multi plugs. By passed the connector and voila, headlights. Connector would pass voltage but not current. 55 watt driving light is almost 5 amps (~4.6) at 12V Can you put a an auxiliary 12volt power source directly to the wires leading to the light bar and if so do the lights work? Basically by pass the switch and other wiring from the battery. I have never owned or installed a light bar but i assume there are several connectors in the light bar itself? High resistance, (corrosion, dirty) where the bulb plugs in will do this. Starting from the light bar bulbs and working back wards, disconnect apply twelve volts to bulb, do they work? If yes. Connect the bulb, trace back to the very next connection, disconnect apply twelve volts. DO they work? If yes, keep going. at the point you apply 12 volts and the lamp(s) no longer lights, the bad connection is between there and the last time the bulbs lit up. Make sense? RSTDdog
  10. RSTDdog
    There's a line between your money's worth and your life's worth.... My dad always said never try to save money on tires and brakes.
  11. RSTDdog
    That tire might have had 150 miles left in it 500 miles ago. If there are alternating patches of rubber and cord,the tire was also cupped slightly. If you lock it up once good during the life of the tire, the resulting flat spot will start a progressive cup. My guess is if he had jacked up the rear and spun the tire and checked it carefully before he left, he would have stayed home. IIRC from new pictures the Avon Venom rear does not have a center groove or tread pattern that joins symetrically along the center of the tread. I think the tread lines alternate and partially pass over the center but don't meet.You really need to check and remember how the tire is new to evaluate when its worn. If your down to wear bars on the tread pattern out past the the center, the center was done many miles ago. He's lucky all it did was leak down to flat on him. Don't think you can blame the tire. RSTDdog
  12. RSTDdog
    Considering the Yamaha OCI is every 4000 miles thats not much of a stretch particularly if your changing the filter every 5k too. Yamaha lets you go every other oil change (8k) on filter changes if you care to, I don't. I'm at a 1.5 years and around 5500 miles on this last change. Going to change it based on the time. I'd go longer on just miles. Running the Rotella 5-40 T6 Synthetic. Seems to be fine. No slipping. Its JASO MA, but also CD, which Yamaha specifically says not to use. DOn't want to hijack, but I'd be curious to know why no CD rated oil. Probably a good thread for BITOG. RSTDdog
  13. RSTDdog
    Here are some pictures of the full solo look. Saddle bag inserts, seat rail and fender rack. On a midnight RSTD, It Is a very sharp look. Don't have the inserts or solo pieces any more, because the reality of switching back and forth all the time for two up riding set in. The quick detach back rest doesn't work when the inserts are installed. Now If your wife or significant other is OK to ride with out a back rest (mine isn't), or if your single...... then your good to go. RSTDdog
  14. RSTDdog
    I think you should be able to drain the fuel without removing the tank IIRC. I need to double check, but if you take the hose loose from the petcock (Fuel On of reserve valve on lower front left of tank) fuel will flow from there. Attach a long pice of hose and point into a container and turn it to reserve. Should gravity feed out of there. Open the cap it vents more. Adding fresh gas with high concentration of sea foam may help loosen things up. YOu will need to pull seat and the tank to get at the fuel pump, fuel filter. Its in the area behind the engine, below the seat and behind the side covers. I know V7Goose (screen name) lives in Texas but not sure where relative to Arlington. If your carbs need to be cleaned and gone through, from what I have read here, he would be the guy I would pay to do it. I know he has done this work for others and is more qualified, more thorough and better workmanship than your dealer for less money. I 'm sure he will be along in this thread. If not send him a PM. RSTDdog
  15. RSTDdog
    I forgot about the switchgear being chrome . The fact those are Chrome actually makes it more noticable that the brake and clutch master cylinder aren't. Goofy since S and midnight models of the ROad Star and Stratoliner the master cylinders are chrome.
  16. RSTDdog
    So I take it the bike has been sitting since at least JUne 2011, or is it even longer? If you didn't use stabil and even if you did, approaching a year or more carbs are likely dirty, gummed up. First off did you drain out the old gas and put in fresh fuel?? If you didn't, do that first. Put a full can of seafoam in with the fresh fuel. Pull the fuel line loose at the petcock and confirm that fuel is flowing there. Can you hear the fuel pump run when you turn the key on? You should be able to hear it run, usually for 5- 10 secs with key on only but not pressing the starter. If you can't hear it run, it doesn't necessarily mean its dead, but may have varnish keeping the pump from working. You can probably free it up by spraying carb cleaner directly into the pump inlet and outlet (may have to remove pump) and let it set for a while. Then cycle the pump a few times and repeat. Once you confirm the pump is working and you can get fuel to the carbs see if it will stay running. If it will only idle with the choke pulled out, pilot jets are plugged. Seafom may clear it out if they aren't plugged too badly. I know there is a service manual available to download here, but I don't rember where it is. Hopefully someone has the link. Should be able to do most of the above with out it. Report back on your progress. RSTDdog
  17. RSTDdog
    I see in the other thread you got the torque spec confirmed. The only reason I knew it by heart is because I just did it. I saw it discussed in some older post I was going through on spark plugs and someone had the page attached. Alot of the torque specs aren't listed in the table but are found in the step by step breakdown in the service manual. The upper engine stay ( dog bone ) torque is in the engine section under removal and reassembly, but I think you found that already too. Bummer on the shoulder surgery. Good Luck and all the best with that. Be VERY diligent on your PT after surgery. That will be key for a full recovery. Be sure and put plenty of stabil in the fuel although I'm sure there are plenty of folks nearby that will help burn the fuel out of it for you and keep it fresh..... RSTDdog
  18. RSTDdog
    As stated before Midnights have the Chrome Forks. Also chrome covers over the valve cover and some other chrome bits. The Midnight RSTDs ( and Venture's) were Raven black metallic. S designation Ventures and RSTDs (there are S model RSTDs that aren't black) have Chrome forks and extra chrome bits. All others have brushed finish on the fork covers and legs. Other Midnight differences include the spokes on the front wheel (that you can't really see behind the brake discs ) and the rest of the wheel except for the polished lip are black. Same for the rear wheel. My midnight does not have "chrome plated " master cylinders for the brake or clutch or "chrome plated " levers. The master cylinders do seem a bit more polished in appearance thn normal with a clear coat over them and the handles are polished with no clear on them so you have stay after them to keep them really shiny. They are not "Chrome plated" like you see onthe Stratoliner S and Roadliner S models. I'd like to have those Master Cylinders on my RSTD. Probably some other differences. RSTDdog
  19. RSTDdog
    Be sure and use a torque wrench on the dog bone bolts and tighten them up to spec (46 foot lbs). I just replaced my plugs. They were changed at dealership by the previous owner. Dog bone bolts broke loose pretty easy with a 3/8 ratchet. Don't think they were at 46 foot pounds. I torqued them down to spec after the plug change and things seem smoother. Not sure if its because the plugs, dog bone torque or both. My plugs still looked pretty good with 10,000 miles on them. Let us know how the brakes feel with those new stainless lines. Good work. I need to do this at some point too. I have changed the clutch and brake fluid before, I do that when it changes color from clear. My OE brake lines are going on 6 years old. OM says to replace them every 4 years. RSTDdog
  20. RSTDdog
    If you haven't bought anything yet, this is in your price range on the other coast and looks like a decent deal if it is what he says it is. A 1999 w/ Only 57K miles- for $2000 http://sarasota.craigslist.org/mcy/2885660153.html RSTDdog
  21. RSTDdog
    FYI for those that use Rotella its on sale at Advance Auto right now, at least in South FL market. Gallon jug of T6 full synthetic 5w-40 is 22.99 (reg 26.99) and the 15w-40 Dino ROtella is 12.99 for a gallon (Reg 17.99). RSTDdog
  22. RSTDdog
    If I were to buy one of these, I would not buy a new left over 09 for 12K. If you search You can can probably pick up an 08 or 09 bought new with low mileage that was bought in 2010 or 11, with 3 to 4 years of warranty left for 7-8K. FYI the 5 year warranty transfers. You can buy this bike used with more warranty than most bikes come with new. These are the only liquid cooled, shaft drive cruisers with electronic cruise control that I'm aware of. This is my first cruiser. My last bike was an ST1100. My wife loves the RSTD as a passenger. I like the bike alot, but for solo riding I can push it harder than it wants to go. Decide what type of riding you want to do, then decide onthe bike. I can tell you I can't keep up with my co worker who has a Vstrom 1000 in the twistys and he is disapointed in the V strom handling coming off an R6 but loves the comfort. With bikes Its all about trade offs or you need to own more than one. My bike as the whine/chirp but doesn't bother me. Straight cut gears are straight cut gears. Some are noiser than others due to manufacturing tolerances. It is what it is. I think all in all you would be hard pressed to find a more reliable cruiser with more features than the RSTD. If you want Fuel injection,give the Stratoliner/Roadliner a look, also reliable, but its V twin, air cooled and belt drive. You don't need any special tools to diagnose or clean carburetors. Its all about Trade offs... RSTDdog
  23. RSTDdog
    NGK DPR8 EA9- 2.59 each at Advance Auto. Order online,Use Code P20 at check out for 20% off (works for everything) and pick up at the store, ends up at 2.09 each for the OEM plug. Works for me. Worked at a multiline Metric MC and PWC dealer and used nothing but NGK plugs. Never got a bad one. Had a plug cleaner we used to use on the sales bikes that got fouled form being run on choke all the time. Usually only takes one bad experience for someone to trash a brand. Always ran Champions in my OMC outboards with no problem. For a while they were the only ones that made the surface gap plugs for loopers. My school of thought was always run the plug who built it. NGK or Nippon Denso for metrics Japanese, AC Delco for GM, Motorcraft for Ford, etc. Never have had a plug issue. RSTDdog
  24. RSTDdog
    Well for an FYI if the engine is totally tanked or craps out after you buy it, there is a used one on ebay for $1000.00 plus shipping with only 6000 miles on it. So now you would be at 4500 with 107K on everything else (rear end wheel bearings drive shaft, suspension, etc. Plus you need to buy a tire, etc. If you have a budget your staying within look it over real good first and consider the total cost of getting it road worthy. If you have some extra money, I would look for a lower mileage example. I have had a Honda ST1100. I like my RTSD but will tell you, unfortunately Yamahas are not Hondas. All things equal, I would take a high mileage Honda over a Yamaha, no offense to my fellow VR members. That being said I'm not concerned about the 107 K on the engine, short of running it out of oil or water, its bullet proof. If the valves were never adjusted, thats another concern. but 107K on everything else may be the biggest issue. Think long and hard about total cost. RSTDdog
  25. RSTDdog
    No centerstand stock on mine and haven't added one. I have one of the Craftsman MC/ATV lifts, but some times the jack stand trick is easier for simple stuff and don't need as much floor space.
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