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RSTDdog

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  1. RSTDdog
    I agree with Mike (MikeWA) this was not simply a chain reaction from worn spark plugs. Something else going on here. Spark plugs last an extremely long time in Modern FI engines. I think when you pull the plugs and compare them to new ones you will find some wear, but i bet if you check the gap it won't be more than .005 bigger than a new one. Don't forget to check the simple stuff like the battery, battery cables (all ends including where they connect to the starter alternator, etc), plug connections,etc. Look for corrosion in the under hood fuse box and the cables that attach to it. Any electrical work done prior to this failure, New alternator or starter or battery? Vehicle in a accident? Google will tell you if this is a common issue. Good luck let us know what you find, RSTDdog
  2. RSTDdog
    2013 would be the year for the 30th Anniversary Edition Venture, although technically not produced for 30 years in succession like the Wing. If Yamaha has something in the works for the Venture in 2013, they will do their best to keep it hushed as long as possible to move as much existing inventory as possible and prevent leftovers needing large dealer or customer incentives to move. If you start seeing incentives on the Venture mid summer or fall, you can bet then that something is coming. It would be relatively easy to add cruise abs trunk and slightly larger fairing and lowers to the Stratoliner, Assuming they want to market a near copy of the Ultra Classic. I don't think that combination will gain them any market share over the current model Venture or earn them any converts however. I still stay they have alot of dollars invested in the new Vmax engine, more than they can recoup( in a reasonable amont of time) selling a niche model bike like the Vmax. Hopefully they have spent this time developing a nice all aluminum touring frame with fuel tank under the seat down low, will allow for maximum allowable intake size and room for other electronics under a false tank cover (i.e. Original Venture and ST1100,the Other V4), more modern styling so its not a me too bike, but sufficient exposed mechanicals so it still looks like a motorcycle and not a big scooter. Problem with all that is, the price will be well skyward of the current 20,000 price tag (They get 20K for the Vmax with no fairing). So the big question for you and for Yamaha, is what are you willing to Pay to buy the bike with all the features you want? Who here would pay say 24,999 (assuming they can do it for that) for an all new aluminum frame, Vmax based FI engine, full faired touring bike, trunk and bags, with ABS, cruise , radials, shaft drive, etc ? In reality the answer to the above will ultimately determine what Yamaha will build. They could do it like the FJR intro and only build as many as they get committed orders for. RSTDdog
  3. RSTDdog
    According to Rick Butler the OE spring rate is around 900 lbs/in. He indicated it should be at least 1200 lbs /inch and worked on the development of the Works shock for the RSV. There are manual preload adjusters (for the spring) on the Hagon shock.They also have a a linked adjustment for compression and rebound (one screw affects both). I should have it in a week or so and will be able to report on it some more then. Will have new shock and two new tires so should be fun. I have seen a variety of suggested values for sag (loaded) on the rear varying from 20-22mm to 1/3 of the total travel which for our bikes in the rear is 1/3 of 4.1 inches or approximately 1.3 inches. Personal preference will probably have it fall somewhere in that range. RSTDdog
  4. RSTDdog
    So any feed back on the shock yet? WHat were the weights you based your spring choice on? I ordered the Hagon today from Hagon Shocks USA. They have one with heavy dutyspring in stock ready to ship. Christina there gave me some specifications for the Hagon. The Hagon shock with the standard spring has a 250 KG/cm spring rate. If I did the math right that works out to 1399 lbs/in. The uprated spring offered on the Hagon is 300KG/cm or 1679 Lbs/in. She indicated the bottoming load spec for the Standard spring is 1300kg (2866lbs) and for the Uprated spring its 1500 KG (3306 lbs). All Hagon shock components are manufactured in house in England. Sounds like the rebuild (when necessary) consists of replacing the damper assembly with your existing spring.Christina indicated Hagon is now supplying them with dampers so they can do the rebuild in the USA without having to send the whole shock back to England. I ordered with the uprated spring. Christina indicated that two up (350lbs) the uprate should be fine but may be stiff for me solo riding at 195lbs. I never let the air out of the OE shock (typically ran 45 psi) when riding solo so we shall see. RSTDdog
  5. RSTDdog
    Goose thanks for the response, and thanks to all for the other replies. Wasn't trying to stir pot or suggest maintenance intervals should not be followed. Just providing my observations of the drive shaft at 22k miles and Just checking if I could reasonably go to my next tire change without servicing the swing arm bearings. Since Goose had the swing arm bearings done at 16K, they likely lubed is driveshaft up at that point as well since it was out. So he basically went 64K without driveshaft maintenance. I think whether the final drive will install without the splines engaged depends on the position of the U joint. If the flex of the u joint is parallel with ground, the joint will point down and the shaft can ride over the top. If the U joint is perpendicular to the ground, I don't think the shaft can get by far enough to tighten the final drive nuts. U joint perpendicular is probably easier to get drive shaft engagement than with u joint parallel. I will let you know when I put it together. MIne is currently positioned so that the u joint is parallel and the end the shaft goes in is pointing down. RSTDdog
  6. RSTDdog
    Doing some searching and dredged this up. If I found this earlier I would not have pulled mine today at 22,000. From the looks I could also have easily gone to 80,000 without doing this. Plent of gray moly type lube onthe front spline. Lube on the rear spline although it looks as though final drive gear oil also makes it in here (gear lube leaks from holes in here if you lay it down). This does raise another question though. Goose, Since you haven't pulled the drive shaft in 80,000 miles, is it safe to assume then you have not ( at that time) serviced the swing arm bearings either in 80,000 miles since this requires pulling the drive shaft? RSTDdog
  7. RSTDdog
    Don't forget to replace your brake fluid when changing pads. As stated earlier, Clean the pistons before pushing them back in. A good trick is once the caliper is off the rotor, CAREFULLY apply some brake pedal to push the piston out just enough to see a clean spot. Then clean off the dirty part and push back in. Be sure your reservoir isn't over full or pushing the pistons back in will cause the fluid to run out the top of the reservoir. This only happens if you added brake fluid some point before the pad change. Since I change brake fluid at pad changes (or every two years), I remove the old fluid from the reservoir before pushing the pistons back in. Remove the rest of the old fluid after the pistons are pushed back in. Install pads and caliper. Fill with fresh fluid and keeping bleeding until it comes out clean. With respect to uneven wear, I just noticed when removing the rear wheel, the hole for front nut for the caliper bracket, where the caliper bracket is bolted to swing arm is slotted. I'm thinking after changing pads and installing the caliper it would be a good idea to loosen this nut, spin the wheel and hit the brakes several times to center the bracket/caliper on the rotor and retorque the nut. Probably should do this when ever you change tires too. RSTDdog
  8. RSTDdog
    In addtion to the body style change in 07 as Freebird mentioned, they have an updated interior as well. I like the 07 and newer interior better. More moderm and better materials. This change is across the Avalanche , Tahoe and Suburban for 07 and up. Look at an 07 before you decide. Fuel economy is somewhat improved as well, particularly on the models with the 5.3 with active cylinder shutdown. 18-20 highway which isn't too shabby for a vehicle that size. Not sure when that became available. RSTDdog
  9. RSTDdog
    But the RSTD already has Hard bags??
  10. RSTDdog
    Thanks. 453.00 with Shipping charges from YPS to my zip. Still 14.00 cheaper than Boats.net with Free SH. I am shock shopping as well. RSTDdog
  11. RSTDdog
    If there is fuel coming out of the overflow tube, there is too much fuel in the carburetor bowl, float (or floats) is not sealing. The seat for the needle valve has an oring around it. Even if there is no trash on the needle, if the oring for the seat (brass part) is bad, fuel can leak around the seat even when the float needle is seated. Keep in mind that Seafoam has alchohol in it. So does pump gas. I'm not sure if you literally run seafoam all the time or periodically. I am not a fan of continuously running solvents with alchohol through my carburetors. Bad enough its in the fuel. Alchohol and solvents will deteriorate the rubber parts with time. I personally prefer Marine Stabil or Startron since neither has alchohol and both contain additives to combat corrosion and fuel phase separation associated with ethanol. If draining and flushing the float bowls as suggested above doesn't fix it, I would go back in and have a close look at everything.Fuel leak is nothing to take lightly. RSTDdog
  12. RSTDdog
    Don't know about Partshark itself, but with Yamaha even if you order the old part number, it will automatically supercede and ship the new part number. The price you will be charged (old or new)will depend on the dealer or vendor selling the part. Is the Partshark price free shipping or plus shipping? Boats.net has it for 467.00 with free shipping. RSTDdog
  13. RSTDdog
    Yes, Going to take it all apart. Prepping for an up coming trip. Now need to decide on the shock. Wasn't really in the budget. Leaning towards the Hagon based on price and availability. Derrek
  14. RSTDdog
    Any updates or more miles. Have you rode two up with this shock yet? Curious any reason you picked the YSS over the Hagon seeing they are similar in price/design? Thanks, Derrek
  15. RSTDdog
    Thanks Rick. May be that's the ".1" in the 4.1" inches of suspension travel...... Out of curiosity, do the aftermarket shocks also have this looseness for lack of a better word in the top mount? I have never heard any unusal noises when operating the bike, except the typical groan if you bounce the bike stationary . Was going to skip the swing arm bearings for a while longer since that seems tight (no side slop), but see some grease build up on the frame around them. May just take it all apart and grease everything. After looking closer it seems there is also some slop though not nearly as bad in the large dog bone joint too, more so where it pivots at the frame. Bottom shock mount and Level arms (links) seem to be pretty good. Every thing is stock with 22k miles. Maybe just expecting more precision in these components than they have by design. Slop may be there to promote movement and prevent binding in the absence of routine maintenance. Thank You. Derrek
  16. RSTDdog
    So I am pulling the rear wheel for a tire change and once the wheel is off I am checking the swing arm, shock etc. WHen I pick up on the swing arm, there is up and down slop where the bolt goes through the top shock mount. Bolt is tight, its like the mount hole in the shock is too large. I would figure this to be a near zero tolerance fit where the bolt passes through. Sufficient slop that you can make impact noise with it if you push up and down slightly on the swing arm. Amounts to about 1/8 inch movement up and down at the axle just from the slop in the bolt. Anyone else seen this before? OEM shock 22,000 miles. There is also oil on the bottom of the bellows. Still holds air and no excessive bouncing I can tell, but likely not long for this world. Thanks, RSTDdog
  17. RSTDdog
    To put a radial on the rear, you need at least a 16" rim. 16" is the smallest rim I have seen a radial tire offered in. I have yet to find a radial tire of any profile in a 15" rim diameter. I have assumed that since people use the FJR rear end (diff) on these bikes that an FJR 17" rim should mate to the OE diff as well. However a 17" radial will be two wide with out doing serious swing arm modifications and not sure if the wheel offset is correct to maintain alignment geometry. This would be cool if it would work, but would require serious custom fabrication. Possibly need a donor FJR swing arm, cuttting and welding,etc. In terms of what size will fit the stock 15" rear, a search in the second gen forum will turn up several discussions on it. Some report the 170/80-15 will work, others have reported slight rubbing on the swing arm. Then of course using a larger tire on a rim that is too narrow can also result in having less contact patch than you had with the stock tire. A larger tire on the appropriate width rim ( assuming it all fits) would look better though. All that being said, I have scraped both floor boards on my bike negotiating twisty bits of road and have not created wear at the limits of the OE rear tire size. I doubt there is going to be any improvement in handling using a larger or lower profile tire tire. A lower profile tire with a shorter overall tire diameter may have you touching down floor boards even sooner. The stock tire sizes on this bike IMO well exceed the handling limits imposed by the bike's weight, frame and suspension components. RSTDdog
  18. RSTDdog
    Stock Windscreen is listed under Cowling 1 on the Parts Fiche. I guess Cowling 1 is the literal translation of Windshield or screen from Japanese? Not sure why they don't just call it windshield.... http://www.boats.net/images/diagrams/yamaha/MCY/2006/XVZ13CTMV_CTMVC/IMAGES/COWLING_1.png So its just a mear 319.00 MSRP for the stock height or $270.00 at boats.net ..... maybe less at others.... 1 1D6-2837U-00-00 SCREEN $319.88 $270.30 I'm in the market for a replacement as well. Kind of like the Memphis shades batwing, but no listing for the RSTD. Derrek
  19. RSTDdog
    May want to google oil consumption on Kawasaki V twins. It was linked here before in a prior discussion. Seems around the 30- 50,000 mile mark, they can start using oil. Kawasaki apparently considers it normal wear for people who had hit this mileage while its still under warranty. This was for models prior to this so not sure if its still an issue. They are nice looking bikes, but has been said the seating looks tight. There are two for sale down here that I have seen. The HD dealer has one and so does our local Honda, Yamaha, Suzuki dealer. The blue one is sharp. On edit: Here are links to the local ones. Our dealers here are a little high. Your seems to be a good price. http://www.sunsportscycle.com/new_vehicle_detail.asp?sid=0304043X6K3K2012J8I45I10JAMQ980R0&veh=153556&pov=2444607 No link for the one at the HD dealer. Not on their site. RSTDdog
  20. RSTDdog
    The battery is under the seat if you didn't know. On the forward part of the riders seat there is an allen bolt on each side. Take those out and lift the front of the seat up and forward to remove the driver seat. Should be looking right down at the battery now. As has been said, check the connections first, they may simply be loose. Next check the battery. I would be curious to know what brand it is. I am personally not a fan of the majority of batteries available at auto parts stores, Sam's, etc. If its the type with removable caps thats needs water added, I would get rid of it. Higher probability of leaking and corrosion issues, particularly if they didn't run a vent line. The bike was designed for a Maintenance free sealed battery. The best battery for this bike in my opinion is the Original Yuasa Maintnenance free battery that came with it. My original battery is 6 years old and still in the bike. That battery is not cheap, but if you only have to buy one every 6 years, it ends up cheaper in the long run than most of the aftermarkets. RSTDdog
  21. RSTDdog
    Glad you and yours are OK. Remember 2nd gear is very versatile.Good to around 40 or 50 before the rev limiter kicks in IIRC. As long as you own the bike outright and don't have a lien holder you should be able to collect the check form the insurance company no problem. If you are doing the work yourself, you'll probably have to pay the dealer their fee for writing the estimate. If they total bike, depending on your state, you can request to retain the salvage rights on the bike. In most instances, you will get the "totaled value" less whatever the insurance company assigns as a salvage value. In some states in this scenario, if you retain the bike, The Insurance compnay cuts you a check for the net and the title never changes or gets assigned a salvage designation. Other states the title will get branded. RSTDdog
  22. RSTDdog
    Took me a minute to see there was a history slider on the right side. That's pretty cool. RSTDdog
  23. RSTDdog
    Very sad to hear about this. My wife's sister lives in Muskegon. She doesn't ride but knows alot of people in the community. I typically feel safer on rural roads and relax more than when riding in town. This is very disturbing. God Bless ALL. RSTDdog
  24. RSTDdog
    How much do they cost compared to the other popular choices? Thanks RSTDdog
  25. RSTDdog
    If its rated 74H like the OE rear tire, religiously check and keep the cold tire pressure at 41PSI , or the max pressure allowable as indicated on the sidewall of the tire if its higher than that. Also Keep at least 25psi inthe rear shock and more 40-45psi if loaded or two up. V7Goose has a tire thread that includes a write up and the miles he got out of several brands of tires including the Route 66. RSTDdog
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