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RSTDdog

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  1. RSTDdog
    06 RSTD Shock leaking oil at 22000 miles.Was Still holding air. Prior Owner kept 0 psi on shock for first 11k miles. I ran 40-45psi the last 11k miles. At least half of my riding was 2 up. Agree with others that Poll needs a Zero. Replaced with Hagon Shock with HD spring. 469.00 incl shipping. 2 year unlimited mileage warranty and rebuildable. Hagon USA LLC in California is great to work with. RSTDdog
  2. RSTDdog
    Looks good! What did the Venture trunk set you back if might ask? Thanks.
  3. RSTDdog
    Your Core deposit is just that, a core deposit, Its not operating capital for their company so refunding upon receipt of your wheels shouldn't be an issue. Are they implying they have twenty sets of core wheels to inspect before they get to yours?? I'm guessing they are dipping in to the deposit money and were probably waiting on more money to come in before they could afford to credit you back. With respect to leaving the bushings in vs removing them before chroming, If chrome plating got on the wheel surface cavity where the bushing installs, you may not get the new bushing in. Its a press fit as it is, extra material like chrome could make install difficult. I Don't know enough about how the wheels are plated to know what would be better, leave the bushings in as a mask, or leave them out if they can plate without getting it in the machined holes for the bushings.
  4. RSTDdog
    Greg in London's description is correct. PRI is a bypass for the vacuum petcock. Lets fuel run straight to the carbs to fill the bowls. PRI is short for Prime. If the bike is hard starting, could be a number of issues. Before he does anything else he needs to do a compression check and make sure they are all even. After compression is verified, confirm spark. Good compression and good spark, time to check fuel. Need more info to help your friend out. If he has to use PRI position all the time to get it to run, may not be enough vacuum to keep the check valve in the petcock open. Low vacuum can = low compression. The vacuum port for the petcock is typically tied to just one cylinder. If the diaphragm for the vacuum petcock leaks, it can suck raw fuel in to that one cylinder and/or suck air depending on where its cracked and the petcock position. Any work or diagnosis without doing compression and spark first is a waste of time. If he has had it for two months, unfortunately he probably bought someone elses problem. RSTDdog
  5. RSTDdog
    Farm1810 has a set of brackets on ebay. The ebay ID number was posted in a thread in Watering Hole by Star4772 http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=71365 . If you don't go the bracket route let me know. I can go through my stuff I probably have at least two more of the SS weld nuts I can cut off and send you. You'll just have to trim them to fit exact before you epoxy them. RSTDdog
  6. RSTDdog
    Link Below is another thread with more info/comments on the Hagon. The Hagon comes with a two year unlimited mileage warranty. The shock is rebuildable for $150.00. Christina at Hagon USA in California indicated Hagon is now shipping them the dampers so the rebuilding can be done here. No longer have to ship back to England for rebuild. If you want remote adjustable preload (ie air adjustment) OE yamaha is your only choice. The manual preload adjuster on the Hagon is nice because it uses a set screw to lock it in place. You are not trying to tighten two lock rings. Loosen set screw, turn preload adjuster, tighten set screw. If you remove the left bag there is room to reach the preload adjuster. Having the bike on a lift with weight off the rear wheel would make it easier yet. When I was shopping for the OE shock, 453.00 including the shipping was cheapest I could find (I think that was Yamaha Sports Plaza, 438.00 some else posted plus 17 SH to Cape Coral Fl.). I purchased the Hagon with HD spring for 469.00 Shipped. http://venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=68168 RSTDdog
  7. RSTDdog
    I understand that. I appreciate you posting the link up. I have bought items(or at least tried too) that people posted the ebay or Cl link here. I was simply making an observation about the coincedental nature of it all. Derrek
  8. RSTDdog
    Seller is a member here and active in the RSTD forum ( ebay name and VR name are the same anyway farm1810) and guy in the RSTD forum (neo55 I think) has a recent post looking for some of these. Funny seller has a potential buyer here on VR and wouldn't have to mess with the ebay headaches and fees. RSTDdog
  9. RSTDdog
    If the voyager kit is like the training wheel set up where the stock rear wheel is the drive unit I would stay away from that set up. There are companies making similar set ups for scooters. Here is the reason. Those set ups steer like a trike when all wheels are on the pavement, i.e push right to go left and push left to go right, and all is fine and good when on the pavement and your used to that. This of course is opposite to typical two wheel motorcycle steering- push right go right and push left go left. Enter now emergency maneuver or for any reason you drop the right rear wheel of the pavement edge. Your trike instinct will be to push right, however if that right rear wheel goes off a low shoulder and is not contacting anything, particularly with the front, driven wheel and left wheel are still on pavement, then push right will result in go right ,taking you further off the road and doing opposite of what you expect it to do. You will be completely off the road before the trike steering returns. On two lane roads with low narrow shoulder and drainage ditches, your not recovering from that. Have him get a real trike if thats what he wants. RSTDdog
  10. RSTDdog
    Here are some pics to go with the above post. Didn't take as many as I thought but you get the idea. Once your done, Its four bolts ( and electric if applicable) to remove trunk, four bolts to remove trunk bracket, and just thread the pins in to use OEM backrest. You can install the trunk bracket without removing the backrest spools. RSTDdog
  11. RSTDdog
    My post , third one in this thread, explains what you need to do to install the Venture rear pillion. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=60469 The venture front seat just needs L-brackets. I have pictures that show the venture and TD driver seat side by side and the brackets here http://www.venturerider.org/forum/album.php?albumid=889 There is a thread here somewhere with the bracket dimensions but I can't seem to find it. User jemorrisonjr was having some made out of stainless steel. Pretty cheap, His cost 7.50 plus SH, not sure if thats still the price. RSTDdog
  12. RSTDdog
    I think maybe a slide hammer and an inside race puller would work to get them out. It took a hammer and an appropriate size socket to seat mine in a little further (See the Rear End noise Hub pin greasing TSB in Tech section). They are press fit so I don't see them coming out with bolt wiggling myself. You have any chrome holding them in by chance? You should have a visible bevel machined in the wheel around the OD of the outer sleeve for the bushing. The top of the bushing should be pressed in flush with the bottom of the bevel. If there is chrome on the beveled part, it could be adding a few thousands lip you have to get by. RSTDdog
  13. RSTDdog
    With respect to Trademark issues, its only a real problem if you start producing them for resale without permission. Looks very nice. I have the Harley trunk with Pillow back rest. I have the Venture pillow top seats and they match near perfectly. You probably know, but harley also has a smooth back rest that would match the Mustang seats pretty close.
  14. RSTDdog
    I mounted a trunk to my RSTD. The work around I came up with to switch back and forth was to first carefully grind the weld off the back side of the pin. You need to remove the rail for this. Once you grind the weld flush with the surface of the inside of the rail ( not seen when mounted) an appropriate size punch and hammer and the pin comes out and you are left with a clean hole. Save the pins. I had access to some stainless 8mm x 1.25 thread pitch weld nuts from some old waverunners I had cannabalized for parts. The weld nuts were already attached to some stainless steering brackets. I trimmed these and epoxied them to the back of the rail.Absent having access to this or something similar, you can weld some tabs to an 8mm nut and epoxy those to the rail. The Venture trunk mounting rack uses 8mm x 1.25 bolts. So this solves mounting the trunk rack. Now the Pins for the factory backrest. I then took the pins I ground off and welded them on to some 8 x 1.25 mm bolts. I took a 8 x 1.25mm socket head (allen) cap screw, and ground most of the head down. I left enough of the allen head hole to support and center the pin for welding. After welding, a little grinding and shaping, I can now thread the pins in to use the factory back rest when the trunk is removed. If you have access to a lathe, you could get a 8 x 1.25 bolt with the appropriate length shoulder ( same length shoulder as the pin is exposed) and turn the shoulder down. You will have to grind down the majority of the bolt head to match the shape of the button head of the pin. No Lathe? Chuck the bolt in a drill press and use a file to turn down the shoulder. The lock pin doesn't hold much load, the spools do that. The initial time invested is a little longer this way, but less time ( and money) than swapping both rails each time you want to switch back and forth. I have some pictures somewhere. Will try and find them (added some pics in post below). If you have a signifcant other, I can tell you from experience that once she rides with the Harley trunk and wrap around backrest, the factoy backrest won't cut it anymore. My trunk hasn't come off since I mounted it. Just saying...... RSTDdog
  15. RSTDdog
    IIRC Tata now owns Jaguar......... Litigation and product liability defense are among the largest costs associated with Motorcycle ( and other recreational products UTV, ATV, PWC, etc) sales in the USA. They exceed the actual manufacturing cost of the product and effect the end cost of the product substantially.
  16. RSTDdog
    Welcome to the Site!! Don't give your money to ebay. Become a supporting member of this site for a meager $12.00 and I will gladly hook you up with link to download the official Yamaha Service manual with RSTD supplement in PDF format free and then you can print individual pages from it or the whole thing if you want to make your own paper copy. A member here has set up an FTP link to a server where you can download it. Its 64 mb so hopefully you have a decent Internet connection. Your 12.00 goes to help Don (Freebird) run and maintain the site. The rear suspension is an air shock. If you still have the stock shock,the air valve for it is located on the right hand side of the bike above and to the rear of the side cover kind of below the seam where the driver and passenger pillion meet (that general area). There is plastic frame cover with the valve mou nted in it. The valve points up. The frame cover is black and so is the valve. Agin Welcome. Good group and everything yoy ever wanted to know. RSTDdog
  17. RSTDdog
    See this thread. http://venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=70415 That clank may be the top shock mount. Nothing to replace there however. Its the difference in the bolt ID and Top shock bushing ID. I could make mine make metal sound at top shock mount manipulating the swing arm with the OE shock installed. New Hagon has Much less slop in that top joint than the OE. I noticed some very minor slop in the forward relay arm mount too. If what you saw/felt is a sminor as mine it won't make a clank noise IMO. Be sure all the bolts are really tight> the troque specs are betwen 29 Ft lb and 35 Ft Lbs depending on which Pivot your on. The bearings need to ride on the bushings. If any of those bolts are loose they will move inside the bushing they go through. The top shock mount is 46 ft lbs IIRC. RSTDdog
  18. RSTDdog
    The ethanol movement has little to do with bettering the environment and alot to do with massive funding from the corn lobby presence in congress of both parties and of course like anything else, money. Last I checked you would be hard pressed to find any Uber liberals in the corn belt, but the farmers know corn for ethanol makes them more money than corn for food ever did. Priced any farmland in the cornbelt lately? Generations old family farms being bought by corporations entering the corn for fuel business. Even In an uber conservative political environment this deal would get done because its about the money. If your going to buy stock, I'd buy it in ethanol producers, Not Startron. So Who wants to start an Anti Ethanol Super Pac? Making better fuel for tomorrow tomorrow ( that last part may be trademarked). And for our wealthy members who want their donations to the Super Pac to remain anonomous, We need the 503C Social welfare organization, Corn for Food not Fuel, which does not have to disclose its donors, but can then donate its anonomous money to the Super Pac. They used to call that money laundering when the mob did it. We can literally do almost anything we want with the money?? Who's In??? Anyway hope I this doesn't get the thread shut down. RSTDdog
  19. RSTDdog
    How many miles do you have? Mine still felt good at 22,000 so I didn't touch it. I lubed all the pivots for the lower dog bone joint and lever arms (levelinglinks) when I installed my new Hagon shock to replace the OEM shock that started leaking. Goose had posted before in another thread that he just checked the torque periodically. I would try that first. I have read the swing arm removal procedure and yes it sounds like alot of work. Not as bad as it sounds. Your half way there now with the tire out. Its really a job you want stay with in one shot and not go back and forth to if possible. I know what your going through. I have been working late on my bike after work and also helping a friend rebuild is E-rude 225 looper. Not enough time in a day and we are leaving soon on a MC vacation ourselves. Trying to find time between now and Friday to change my fork springs. Me thinks its not going to happen. RSTDdog
  20. RSTDdog
    I have contemplated the Stratoliner Deluxe fairing myself after seeing one in person at my local dealer. I spent a bit of time looking at it. Its not a bad buy, particularly if you have a Midnight RSTD because you can get the fairing prepainted from Yamaha in Raven Black which matches the midnight. I think it would look nice since that fairing sweeps and and matches the pull back on the bars since RSTD and Strat have a similar pull back. However you would have to modify it signifcantly in terms of mounting. On the strat it mounts to the 1" bars in about the same place our speedometer is. Also to sit correctly over the RSTD speedo you would have to cut/trim into the storage cubby in the center of the fairing. The headlight opening in the fairing is shaped like the Strat headlight the round RSTD headlight may look odd inthe oblong opening. I wasn't willing to spend 1200.00 on something and begin cutting on it though. In terms of what it would look like, someone photoshopped one onto a venture and posted it up in one of the 2013 venture threads. RSTDdog
  21. RSTDdog
    You can try to adjust/ tighten the swing arm bearings to get rid of the side play but you need to disconnect the shock so you can feel the up down movement and make sure its smooth. If it feels notchy now ( upa nd down) or gets notchy when you tighten it, you will need to pull the swing arm and replace the bearings and wear parts and re-pack. THey are taper style bearings similar to the steering head so its possible to over tighten them and cause binding. You may want to take the time now and clean and lube all the pivot joints that connect the bottom of the shock joint to the swing arm. When it all feels nice and smooth withthe shock out, re-instal the shock. Its easy to get the shock out with the rear tire off. RSTDdog
  22. RSTDdog
    Steve, I also just ( as in this past weekend) installed a Hagon Shock with a Heavy Duty spring on my 2006 RSTD. Ordered from Christina at Hagon Shocks LLC in California. Shipped from California to Fort myers ground in 4 days. 469.00 free shipping. Best price shipped I found on OEM was 453.00. Christina told me Hagon is supplying them the dampers now too so they can do rebuilds here in US without having to ship back to England. I don't have as many miles on it yet like cowboy does ( only about 100) but I like it. I installed it just the way it came out of the box (preload adjuster is basically all the way off). I weigh 195 lbs and I have a Harley tour pack mounted on the back of my RSTD. Not stiff at all solo IMO. Of course I would ride solo with 45-50 PSI in the OE shock too. Rode two up with my wife (she's around 150) and Hagon still felt real good. I didn't feel like I needed to adjust it more for her weight. She remarked that it "takes the bumps better". I have not had the chance to take sag measurements to see where its at. I can tell you the rear its higher and there si very little compression moving off the side stand. You will notice, however, after installing the new Hagon, how soft the front forks are by comparison. I'm going to replace my forks springs with the Sonic 1.2 kg/mm spring and 10 wt fork oil. You are not that far from me down in Naples. I am prepping for an up coming trip to the montains. Leaving on Friday. I live inthe Cape and work in Gateway not far from RSW. If you want to check the Shock out and take the bike for a spin, let me know, my number is in my profile. Will try and make some time, other wise it would have to be after the Holiday. What I like about the Hagon design is that they use a single ring preload adjuster with a locking set screw. YOu don't have to fight with trying to tighten two rings or worry about the rings coming loose. I haven't tried it yet, but it looks like you can adjust the preload ring by taking off the left saddlebag and reaching in between the tire and fender. I have some pictures and measurements I took at home that I can post later. At the moment I don't feel as though it needs any adjustment, but it may well wear in a bit after some miles. Derrek RSTDdog
  23. RSTDdog
    FYI the bolts for the Cylinder Head Stay, Yamaha speak for the upper dogbone engine mount you removed on each side to get to the front plugs, All four bolts get torqued to 46.1 Ft lbs. When I changed my plugs they were no where near that tight. PO had the plugs changed before me. You probably did it , but now is a good time to clean all the crud off the spark plug boots (rubber bits, etc). I like to use silicone spray on rag for this since it won't damage rubber parts. Hope the plug maintenane got you up and running. RSTDdog
  24. RSTDdog
    Did you read Gooses post? You have not mentioned the miles or condition of the rear tire on your bike? if the rear tire is no longer round (the profile), you get all kinds of goofyness when you transition from the flat spot in the center. Rear tire pressure?? Also check your rear shock. Mine just started leaking at 22,000 miles on my 2006 RSTD. There will be oil staining on the rubber boot if its leaking. RSTDdog
  25. RSTDdog
    Have a new Avon Venom rear mounted. Was checking the static balance after being machine balanced and before mounting. With the axle through the wheel and resting on jack stands I can see some visible run out on the outer edge of the tire where the tread meets the side wall. Bead appears seated evenly all the way around, there is small amounts of rubber flash that is between the bead and the tire. I din't remove the flash and neither did the tire installer (Avon should have actually) but the flash material is really thin and doesn't equal what I'm seeing for runout. Seems to be in one spot. Is some runout normal on a new tire? On edit: Well according to Avon here http://www.avonmoto.com/download/Tires101.pdf > 1mm lateral,radial run = out of round Thanks RSTDdog
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